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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default Got the motor! In pieces...

    Totally un-assembled at this point, but I could NOT pass up on the deal!

    I *think* it is a 1970 302 block, originally a marine motor. The deets-

    Block - 302 D10e 6015 AA (1970?)

    Bored .040 over, decked .012
    Sealed Power hypers, flat tops with valve reliefs

    Crank and rods- stock and .010/.010

    Heads- D00e 0425 B with hardened seats, new springs, etc- fully rebuilt.

    Thinking a Performer intake with either a 570 Street Avenger or a cfi efi kit

    Came with a cam (Engine Pro MC560) but I probably won't use it.

    Got the entire thing for $900

    Figure I can't really go wrong. Hoping for about a 300 hp sleeper. Plan to back it with a T5.

    Happy!

    Also came with chrome Motorsport valve covers, assortment of other odds and ends. I will of course have to buy front dress (pulley kit, etc) and such, but I think it was a screaming deal. The guy who did the machine work is well respected in the area. Actually did the work in Feb 2007, but due to life circumstances the motor sat in a shop until now. No rust I can see, been wrapped in plastic. Needs a scrubbing still.

    I may sell the heads and go with a set of GT40 iron or something. Don't know yet - but I want the higher compression.

    Thoughts?
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  2. #2

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    I don't know much about the muscle era engines, but that should be awesome in your Granada! Just slightly better than what's in it.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default

    Port those heads and put hardened seats and valves in before spending the money on going GT40 unless someone with a 70 really wants them.

    The most ive seen from GT40’s on a 302 is 360 and the cam was a bit wild.

    Hotrod Magazine made 380 streetable HP via porting and compression with the D0OE heads. They hit AL head numbers on flow but had to be conservative on timing due to combustion detonation risk with iron heads.

    Not sure what my Galaxie made but with a 351W and a Torino cam and Offenhauser 360 degree intake and decent exhaust gear it ran 13’s and would go faster than any fool would ever want to drive it.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Default

    D10E= 1971
    D0OE=1970
    1971 block and 1970 heads. If you take a pic of all the numbers on the block down where the starter mounts I could tell you for sure. If you care that is.

  5. #5
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    Don't waist money having the heads you got nor a set of Gt40 heads worked .
    For the same money , aluminum heads are better .
    I have Edelbrock , 2.02 Intake , 1.69 exhaust , cnc ported , 58cc chambers .
    Have run these with no work for over 20 years .
    When I bought them , ford aluminum heads were expensive .
    Today there are a lot of used heads available for good money .
    Even New heads are sizable cheaper .
    Spend the small extra to get a custom cam ground , there are a number of them on the corral .
    Ed Curtis comes to mind right away.
    Nothing wrong with a flat tappet cam either .
    They take a stronger spring rate , due to the rapid ramps both up and down , but nothing to fret about .
    I have a 68 block in my car , flat tappet with comp cams grind , and nitrous , and spinning to 7-7500 , with no failures., Get 27 mph on the highway with 3.73 gears and a 275-40-17 rear tire.
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default

    Right in line with what I was thinking when I mentioned the detonation aspect..... meant to say AL heads but forgot to

    On the Block casting 0.040 over — at least its not a thin cast lump..... they are offering the thin cast blocks at 4.040 these days and even 4.060 for near Stock type builds

    would be nice to see some old iron make it back together. So many don’t

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    The heads have hardened seats already installed. I am looking for power in the1500-5500 range. Aluminum are great but the thermal efficiency takes away from compression. Still undecided, but for the money I think I got a great deal.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    So that motor was 9.5:1 factory compression. It is .040 over, but also slightly decked so should be about the same. Might spend a couple hundred having some mild work done on the heads and better springs. Want a bit more than a stock cam, but nothing crazy. Should be fun!

    And I found a guy willing to trade a Fox body pan for my marine pan straight across. Yay!
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Default

    Did it come machined, ready to assemble? Any parts like bearings, rings etc? I'd hope so for that price.

    Regardless, the DO0E heads are a decent iron head, especially if they've already had the hardened seats put on the exhaust as you mentioned.

    What is your plans for valve train, flat tappet? Solid roller? Hyd. roller conversion lifters? I'd go with option #3.

    Good luck, keep us posted.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    The motor was fully machined- that was what I paid for. Crank looks great, pistons and rods look great, heads look great.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    And yes. Oil pump, all bearings, it even had a carb and intake which I chose not to take. It even had a stock new cam, but there was surface rust on a lobe or two and I want a different one anyway. Basically a complete, machined, balanced, unassembled motor.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 07-28-2018 at 07:24 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    The heads have hardened seats already installed. I am looking for power in the1500-5500 range. Aluminum are great but the thermal efficiency takes away from compression. Still undecided, but for the money I think I got a great deal.
    I would leave everything as is. Maybe a 500cfm avs2 and a mild cam. Your looking at 1500-5500 so probably 275hp at the crank.. why waste money of efi junk when they make the new avs2 carb? Cheaper easier and same if not better mileage.
    Enjoy your deal and not blow huge$$$... Thats what I would do as it turns into just another money pit as soon as you go after extra hp...

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    I would have never considered an Edelbrock carb before, but that 1906 has some great reviews!

    I don't want a money pit for sure. I want to get it on the road. Wife and I talked. Get this motor going as a mild build and enjoy it while we plan a beefier replacement.

    Because of that, going to stay hydraulic flat tappet this time, stay carb this time (probably that Edel 1906-did good with a Street Avenger in the past, but open to new things). Thinking some minor head work and mild but above stock cam.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    So, I remember a huge amount from my fox Mustang days and am turning this Granada in to the same-ish thing, but a few things I am not sure about-

    The crank is stamped 2M, so it is a 302 crank. It was a marine motor. Wanting to check the below two things:

    1- I assume it is a 28oz balance, but will check with the guy who did it (motor is a '70). Assuming that, I will need a 28oz damper and I need to be sure to use a 28oz flywheel. My assumption is all three (crank/damper/fly wheel) need to match due to external balance nature of the 302.

    2- I know the cam will determine firing order. Is there a way to make sure the crank will rotate the right direction? I don't want 4 or 5 fast reverse gears and one forward. I know some marine motors were reverse rotation (as a couple have mentioned here) but I always thought that was a water pump reference, not the rotational direction of the crank.

    Hope I don't seem to dumb about that, but I gotta know of course. Going to start motor assembly this week. Planning to buy a complete/matching bracket and pulley kit to utilize a reverse rotation water pump.

    Anyway... thanks all!
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  15. #15

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    1. Assumptions correct. A '71 302 will be 28oz-in imbalance.

    2. The crankshaft will rotate clockwise viewed from the front... the starter will not turn it counterclockwise... and either SBF camshaft-dictated firing order will work, and continue the clockwise rotation of the crankshaft.

    Forget about marine "motor" and reverse rotation... somebody might have yanked that out of a boat, but a D1OE block wasn't ever originally a marine engine. The letter "O" in a 1971 casting number indicates Fairlane/Torino. A marine Ford engine's 3rd casting number digit would be the letter "J".

    First Digit: Decade (EXAMPLE: C5ZZ)
    A = 1940's
    B = 1950's
    C = 1960's
    D = 1970's
    E = 1980's

    F = 1990's

    Second Digit: Year Number (EXAMPLE: C5ZZ)
    Last digit of year of introduction or revision. This number corresponds to the decade shown in the first digit. Thus C5 = 1965.


    Third Digit: Model (EXAMPLE: C5ZZ)
    A = Ford (Generic) / Galaxie (1958-later)

    B = Bronco (1970-73), Maverick (1975-77), Fairmont (1978-83)
    C = Remanufactured Parts (1966-75), Elite (1975), Capri (1979-later)

    D = Falcon (1960-69), Maverick (1970-74), Granada (1975-82), LTD (1983-later)
    E = Truck (Cab over Engine) (1970-73), Pinto (1976-80), Escort (1981-later)

    F = Foreign sales / Trans Am Racing

    G = Comet (1961-67), Montego (1968-76), EXP (1982-later)
    H = Holman/Moody HiPo Part, Heavy Truck (1966-82), Medium Heavy Truck (1983-later)
    I = NOT USED

    J = Industrial / Marine engines
    K = Edsel (1958-60), Tilt Cab (1970-73), Comet (1975-77), Zephyr (1978-83), Marquis
    (1983-later)
    L = Lincoln (1958-60), Mark (1961-later)
    M = Mercury (1958-later)
    N = Tractor (1958-later)
    O = Fairlane (1962-68, Torino (1969-76), LTD II (1977-79), LN7 (1982-83)
    P = Autolite (Later Motorcraft) (1962-later)
    Q =- NOT USED

    R = Rotunda (Generic)(1962-69), Ford of Europe (1970-later), Remanufactured Parts (1976?-later)
    S = Thunderbird (1958-later)
    T = Truck (1958-65), Light/Medium Truck (1966-82), Bronco (1966-82, Except 1970-73), Light Truck & Bronco I (1983-later)

    U = Econoline/Club Wagon Van (1961-later)

    V = Lincoln Continental (1961-81)

    W = Cougar (1967-80), XR7 (1981-82), Cougar (1983-later)

    X = Truck (Short Highway) (1970-73)

    Y = Meteor (Canada) (1962-72), Bobcat (1975-80), Lynx (1981-later)
    Z = Mustang 1964-73; Mustang II 1974-78; Mustang 1979-later
    1 = NOT USED

    2 = Pinto (1972-75)

    3 = Tempo (1984-later)

    4 = Comet (1971-74), Monarch (1975-80), Cougar (1981-82), Marquis (1983-later)

    5 = Recreation Vehicles (1974-75), Continental (1982-later)

    6 = Pantera (1971-75), Topaz (1984-later)

    7 = Courier (1971-82); Ranger/Bronco II (1983-up); Explorer (1991-later)

    8 = Capri (U.S. Parts) (1972-75)

    9 = Turbine Engine Parts (1970-75)

    Fourth Digit: Design Engineering Office (EXAMPLE: C5ZZ)
    A = Light Truck Engineering Division
    B = Body and Electrical Product Division
    C = Chassis
    D = Overseas Product Engineering
    E = Engine
    F = General Parts/Electrical and Electronics Division
    G = NOT USED
    H = Climate Control (1972-up)
    I = NOT USED
    J = Autolite/Ford Parts & Service Division
    K = NOT USED
    L = Industrial Engine Parts & Service
    M = Performance/Special Vehicle Operations (Incl. Holman Moody)
    N = Tractor Parts
    O = NOT USED
    P = Auto Transmission
    Q = NOT USED
    R = Manual Transmission
    S = Light & Heavy Truck Special Order Parts
    T = Heavy Truck Engineering
    U = Special Vehicle Operations
    W = Axle and Driveshaft
    X = Emissions, Economy and Special Vehicle Engineering (Muscle Car Parts)
    Y = Lincoln/Mercury Service Parts
    Z = Ford Service Parts



    Chart info from: http://www.fordification.com/tech/pa...s_overview.htm
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 08-04-2018 at 10:34 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  16. #16
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Thanks! That is kind of what I thought, but it is not something I wanted to risk that small chance of.

    Also, if memory serves, the 4 cylinder and v8 front k members are the same- all I will need is motor mounts to convert i4 to V8. It was the 6 cyl that was the odd man out.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  17. #17

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    Yes, 4 and 8 cylinder k-members are the same... and mounts, insulators, and block brackets for a V8, yep you'll need. The 3.8L V6 car's k-member is also the same. Not certain about the earlier 2.8L V6 cars. It's the 200 cubic inch 3.3L straight six k-member that's the oddball.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  18. #18
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    That's what I thought, thanks! Nice to know I haven't forgotten everything...

    I toyed with the idea of a tubular front k member, but at this point it's not worth the expense since I mainly want to get it road worthy.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    A Torino cam with a little added kick will be just perfect for this motor!

    Can’t go wrong with intakes from Edelbrock. Personally I like their Airgap line.

  20. #20
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Think I am going to go comp cam high energy 268.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

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