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  1. #76
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    Default Almost stripped!

    I spent a bunch of Sunday afternoon outside in the garage. I still had a bit to take off; sail panels, side mouldings, tail lights, rear bumper cover and bumper.

    I would take off the wheels but they are out of the way and not in my way Some minor items still on to take off: passenger door lock and door handles, trunk harness, latch and lid.

    This is what I was looking at when I was done for the day:



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...f7awf.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...aktg7.jpg.html

  2. #77
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    Default Add another digit?

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    I have not actually verified it Fidel. That is just what the odometer actually read. Doing some more removal has me doubting this has not gone around once.

    Once I have everything apart, I will put up some pictures for everyone to help me determine mileage.
    So with going around the car in more detail as I removed these last items, I am skeptical that this would only be a 17k mile car. While the interior and other signs of originality argue the other way, take a look at the following I have noted.

    I had seen right out of the gate the passenger side below the pin stripe and the front lip of the hood had been rattle canned and a rough tape line. I knew there were some rough looking areas to the texture too. Not sure if the replaced side mirror have anything to do with the below.

    Here is the passenger side. I can't tell if this is thick paint, bondo or a combo of both. I wonder if the car was vandalized? Rusted? Side swiped?

    I do not believe the side mouldings on this side have been removed before.

    I would appreciate your thoughts!

    Rear and front of rear wheel well.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...wxjdj.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...x4wnv.jpg.html

    This is inside the rear fender lip. This is the only indication of stud welding on this side.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ghpq8.jpg.html

    Behind passenger door:


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ztnsy.jpg.html

    Passenger door (need advice on pulling this dent ). There is no visible trauma or other on the inside.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...nwm4s.jpg.html

    Front fender; back, middle and front:




    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ocjve.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ggecx.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...aydgl.jpg.html

  3. #78

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    You are really tearing this one down! Sorry if I missed it but I presume you won't be blending in New paint in that area but respraying the entire car? I feel your pain with the trim. I recently bent an outer dew trim piece.

  4. #79
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    Default

    Unfortunately with the shorter VINs of the 79, I don't believe you can get a CarFax on this model to help verify the mileage. I don't know that using the exterior condition or exterior damage is the surest way to try and determine mileage either. In most cases if the interior is in great/low mileage condition and if the engine/drivetrain is in great/low mileage condition that can be as much of a true indicator as anything.

    Unfortunately I have seen mint condition cars that get exterior damage early on in the vehicle life. Also cars that are driven only short distances to the grocery store, church, work, etc. may often have more dents, dings, etc. than a car that has been driven mostly on the highway. I don't have any great advice or ideas to help you sort this out, but I wouldn't disregard the possibility of low mileage just because of the exterior.

    I don't recall what your ultimate plans are for the paint and body work on the car. The passenger door ding is going to be difficult due to the crash bar inside. A PDR guy might be able to work that out for you, otherwise you will most likely need a stud gun welder to pull that dent effectively IMHO. If you can work it from the backside at all that will help, but right now I can't remember exactly where the inner crash bar stops relative to the molding line. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

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  5. #80
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    WOW! love these pictures.... to fix those dents on the doors I bought a stud gun from harbor freight for $100.00 and a pack of studs. the gun comes with the slide hammer and it worked good
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD)
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  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlehma13 View Post
    You are really tearing this one down! Sorry if I missed it but I presume you won't be blending in New paint in that area but respraying the entire car? I feel your pain with the trim. I recently bent an outer dew trim piece.
    Jon,

    Yes I am following a familiar path with this car. It only seems fitting. Plus as further pictures will show it is really needing an equally nice makeover!

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Unfortunately with the shorter VINs of the 79, I don't believe you can get a CarFax on this model to help verify the mileage. I don't know that using the exterior condition or exterior damage is the surest way to try and determine mileage either. In most cases if the interior is in great/low mileage condition and if the engine/drivetrain is in great/low mileage condition that can be as much of a true indicator as anything.

    Unfortunately I have seen mint condition cars that get exterior damage early on in the vehicle life. Also cars that are driven only short distances to the grocery store, church, work, etc. may often have more dents, dings, etc. than a car that has been driven mostly on the highway. I don't have any great advice or ideas to help you sort this out, but I wouldn't disregard the possibility of low mileage just because of the exterior.!
    Trey, thanks for your opinions. I see all of your points. I'll continue to post for the sake of conversation and your advice I'd love to think it was under 17k miles! If it wasn't, I'll have to change the 27022 km on the new odometer to (1)87956

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I don't recall what your ultimate plans are for the paint and body work on the car. The passenger door ding is going to be difficult due to the crash bar inside. A PDR guy might be able to work that out for you, otherwise you will most likely need a stud gun welder to pull that dent effectively IMHO. If you can work it from the backside at all that will help, but right now I can't remember exactly where the inner crash bar stops relative to the molding line. Good Luck!
    I am going to go for pretty much the whole deal again this time Trey. Maybe without trunk. Maybe jambs - upon inspection. I think they may be good once I clean them up.

    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    WOW! love these pictures.... to fix those dents on the doors I bought a stud gun from harbor freight for $100.00 and a pack of studs. the gun comes with the slide hammer and it worked good
    Trey I never noticed anything on my first look inside before I had noticed this dent. I did look for stud burns or kinks but nothing of note. It is a little subtle.

    Regardless, you and NAVYCAT have me thinking of Brock's repair on his back quarter. He used the Harbour Freight stud gun. Unfortunately they are not in Canada but we have "Princess Auto" which is quite similar. I will check around and see what is available at least. I seem to have a hobby that may need this in the future again!

    Brock's posts:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1818643

    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Attachment 105994Attachment 105995

    The areas circled in red are the areas where there is a slight bend in the panel. The areas in yellow are the deeper dents which will require most of the work. I wouldn't be surprised if when I start working on the deeper dents, the slight inward bends don't move back without having to pull on them.

    Attachment 105996
    This post is inspirational for me:

    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Interesting weekend to say the least. Started off making a run for some supplies. A HF stud welder, body hammers and some filler and cleaners and it was time to rock and roll for attempt #1.

    Got the rest of the panel cleared of paint and got to figuring out where to place the studs. Figured I would place them in random spots trying to get the easiest pull on the panel.

    Attachment 106136

    I will say the stud welder worked great but the slide hammer that came with the kit left quite a bit to be desired. My biggest issue with it was the less than quality stud gripping wheel they had on it. After a few pulls with it, it liked to lock onto the stud and would not release it. Had to end up pulling the stud off the body, smacking it on the floor and then it would release. Dang HF tools!

    Got most of the outer perimeter pulled without too much drama, other than the puller, and went on trying to figure out how to get that crease out back by the panel bend. I could not get a stud welded in that area due to not having enough ground for the welder, so I got creative. I ended up taking the overlap tab on the taillight panel and bending it out of the way. This gave me enough room on the inside on the crease to use a small punch and hammer to tap the crease out. Worked on it for a while and finally got the gas door fairly even and flush with the body lines which is kinda how I gauged the panel pull.

    Attachment 106137

    Worked on the highs and lows with the body hammers and dollies until I thought they were decent enough and started the filler process. All in all, it did not require much but there were definite spots that came through while sanding that needed a bit more attention. Worked on them some more and tried again. Second time around was much better but I'm still not 100% sure its quite right.

    Attachment 106138
    Attachment 106139

    Need to do some final sand and glaze to see how it looks. I'm afraid the body contour is not quite right as it seems it does not have the right curve as compared to the P/S but maybe I'm just looking at it too hard.

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post

    Regardless, Trey and NAVYCAT have me thinking of Brock's repair on his back quarter. He used the Harbour Freight stud gun. Unfortunately they are not in Canada but we have "Princess Auto" which is quite similar. I will check around and see what is available at least. I seem to have a hobby that may need this in the future again!
    I took a little deeper look into a cheap "Harbour Freight" type of set up and there is nothing really available locally that cheap! The first couple of places were no-go with even having anyhting. There was one on sale at a local tool store that carries the best selection and brands and they had a set on sale for $310 Canadian. I'll rethink my strategy.

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Trey I never noticed anything on my first look inside before I had noticed this dent. I did look for stud burns or kinks but nothing of note. It is a little subtle.
    I did look into the door dent a little. It ended up being behind and below the reinforcement bar in the door I did some gentle manual persuasion and most of it is gone with little effort. Once I really get into the body, I guess I will evaluate where I am. Maybe the moulding will hide what is left



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...2fogy.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...axshy.jpg.html

  9. #84
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    Default Rear bumper cover and bumper

    Here is the cover before when took it off. The car looks good from a distance. Under the light and when taking off you see small things. BTW, this cover has been removed in it's past based on the nuts inside the trunk and the sealant being disturbed (more on that in a bit).

    Rubs.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...c8nxl.jpg.html

    Chips and paint cracks.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...zmwxw.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...vvbsf.jpg.html

    What looks like a more pointed bump on the drivers rear corner but no visible damage on the inside.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...zstb4.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...jda8a.jpg.html

    Oh and as my luck would have it; no random aluminum bumper on this or our other 79 San Jose car.

    To be continued...

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Oh and as my luck would have it; no random aluminum bumper on this or our other 79 San Jose car.

    To be continued...
    Well that's a shame as I know you wanted to donate it to me if you found one.

    That door might come out a bit more with the use of a hydraulic push from the inside. Some wood blocking against the inner side to spread the force there and a smaller block at the outer skin to push the dent back.
    Last edited by BMW Rider; 01-17-2019 at 10:37 AM.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    Well that's a shame as I know you wanted to donate it to me if you found one.

    That door might come out a bit more with the use of a hydraulic push from the inside. Some wood blocking against the inner side to spread the force there and a smaller block at the outer skin to push the dent back.
    Thanks Ed! I will try more once I get more focused on the body work. That was a really poor attempt pushing out from the inside but with decent results that make me feel more positive about it!

  12. #87
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    Default A little more damage evidence.

    So after I removed the bumper cover I find this.

    Clearly the car was hit from behind or was backed into something. With the rust on there, I am not sure if this was pushed in all the way and bounced back out.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...nt4hf.jpg.html

    There is a bit of play in the hole for the bumper mount. It must have been due to the direction of impact. At this point I may just straighten the bumper mount and refinish it. It looks to be a pain to fix the hole. No one would be any wiser either



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ibzix.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...877ax.jpg.html
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 01-25-2019 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Spelling damn it!

  13. #88
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    Default More studs and some fresher paint.

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    This is inside the rear fender lip. This is the only indication of stud welding on this side.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ghpq8.jpg.html
    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    So after I removed the bumper cover I find this.

    Clearly the car was hit from behind or was backed into something.
    With the variety of little things I've seen so far on the body and exterior, this car must have some interesting stories. Whether 17 or 117k miles.

    More on the interior in a bit but while I was doing interior things, I caught a glimpse of something while under the rear driver's quarter window. I had to look hard to see in there but there are more stud weld burns on this side also. That's both side rear fender lips. These ones couldn't be seen from the trunk.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...jyg7j.jpg.html

    I hadn't been able to check out the whole car but I had seen signs of repaint up to the drivers door. I had seen paint lines near trim and in the trunk jamb.

    Seems to be base clear and maybe some parts just cleared. I shaved into it when I was taking the body side moulding glue off with the razer. So far I think the drivers door to the back on that side, the roof, down the rear passenger quarter and trunk/rear end may have been done.

    I wonder if the car was rear ended or backed into something hard enough to partially buckle the fender lips and then required body work and paint If this car could talk Plus what it has going on with the passenger side now




    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...gbpji.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ed4q2.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...argoy.jpg.html

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    So after I removed the bumper cover I find this.

    Clearly the car was hit from behind or was backed into something. With the rust on there, I am not sure if this was pushed in all the way and bounced back out.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...nt4hf.jpg.html

    There is a bit of play in the hole for the bumper mount. It must have been due to the direction of impact. At this point I may just straighten the bumper mount and refinish it. It looks to be a pain to fix the hole. No one would be any wiser either



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ibzix.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...877ax.jpg.html
    Looking at the bend in the bumper mount plate, that took a pretty serious hit to do that. I can only imagine there had to be more damage. It might be a good idea to have it checked on a frame rack to ensure its straight.

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    Looking at the bend in the bumper mount plate, that took a pretty serious hit to do that. I can only imagine there had to be more damage. It might be a good idea to have it checked on a frame rack to ensure its straight.
    Thanks Ed. I'm not sure I'm looking to forward to that yet.

    Maybe if you are near me in the near future, you can pop by and give your opinion. I haven't even had the rear wheels off long enough and been under the car in it's entirety to really look to see. Mind you, knowing this now, I wouldn't have looked as closely but honestly I do not see any signs of damage other than this. It seems like a decent repair/hide as you all can see from the outer pictures I have posted of the car. Why replace the bumper mount if it doesn't effect the outside appearance?

    More to discuss I guess.

  16. #91
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    Here are a couple more of the rear bumper before I took it off. Passenger side was missing a bolt.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...p7qyv.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...flbys.jpg.html
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 01-25-2019 at 10:14 PM.

  17. #92

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    There should be a 10mm socket joke in here somewhere..... itís mocking us in the picture.

    Not hard to straighten the bumper plate ...... a torch and a slide hammer. Surprised they didnít at least put body spacers in to bring the bumper support up where it should be.

    Looks like a good car overall. Great progress, keep going!

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    There should be a 10mm socket joke in here somewhere..... itís mocking us in the picture.

    Not hard to straighten the bumper plate ...... a torch and a slide hammer. Surprised they didnít at least put body spacers in to bring the bumper support up where it should be.

    Looks like a good car overall. Great progress, keep going!
    Thanks! Progress is mainly limited to a five or six hour stint on Sunday afternoon!

    I am surprised why they would have not done that repair either. Especially when it looks like they had the cover off. I'll have to look at body spacers. I'm not sure exactly what you are describing. I suppose the slop on the bumper support holes could have a bounce over bumps.

    As for the 10 mm socket. Well, I do know that the 2.8 V6 oil pan bolts uses the 10 mm socket.

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    More on the interior in a bit but while I was doing interior things....
    What I was doing for interior things was to strip out the old tar paper stuff they put on the floor pans. This will be so I can put down the new sound deadener and insulation.

    Most of it came off quite easily. The part behind the rear seat was a different adhesive by the looks. I am not intending to do the trunk this time around so only went up so far.

    Along with the interior I've already cleaned up and now looking at this; I see an almost new car. 17k miles or 117k miles?



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...dp8bs.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...vm7ly.jpg.html

    The driver's side has a high spot in the corner where it looks like a jack or lift pushed up from the bottom. It went down fairly easy while flaking off the undercoating on the underside.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...j6ocg.jpg.html

    I pulled the grommets on the drivers side and it looks like new with no rust


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ubqoe.jpg.html

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    On the passenger side, I noted a little rust around these two grommets and in the corner of the floor pan.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...tkwnh.jpg.html

    Better safe than sorry so I picked up some silver POR15. I cleaned a larger area to see how far it spread. Not bad. It really seems to be surface only. I got the first coat on and will do one or two more. I haven't been underneath and looked too closely at the condition of the underside yet but do not expect any real issues. The factory sealant they used seems in great shape still.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...bu9me.jpg.html

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    Not really much left to do inside for take apart.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...jq9nb.jpg.html

    I need to decide if I want to pull the dash to check the heater core. I have not done that before. I've removed a couple of dashes but not had to put one back in With the evidence of it possibly being accessed already (AC car) I might need to worry about the workmanship or the core still. Can it just be pressure tested?


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ai1fh.jpg.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    On the passenger side, I noted a little rust around these two grommets and in the corner of the floor pan.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...tkwnh.jpg.html

    Better safe than sorry so I picked up some silver POR15. I cleaned a larger area to see how far it spread. Not bad. It really seems to be surface only. I got the first coat on and will do one or two more. I haven't been underneath and looked too closely at the condition of the underside yet but do not expect any real issues. The factory sealant they used seems in great shape still.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...bu9me.jpg.html
    my 1985 gt was rusted in the same spot.there is a seam there where the firewall and floorpan meet.i grinded down the rust,cleaned it,and used por 15..very happy with that stuff.cured hard as nails.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxmatt View Post
    my 1985 gt was rusted in the same spot.there is a seam there where the firewall and floorpan meet.i grinded down the rust,cleaned it,and used por 15..very happy with that stuff.cured hard as nails.
    That makes sense. I figure if I do the proper work on the inside to prevent further spread, I can do similar form the underside once I get there. I do not think it is that bad. It may have been a bad seam seal and some water got in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Not hard to straighten the bumper plate ...... a torch and a slide hammer. Surprised they didn’t at least put body spacers in to bring the bumper support up where it should be.
    I wouldn't waste much effort trying to straighten that, just replace it. If you need one, I have the pair off the front of mine which I think are the same as the rears. Or if you do want to straighten it, my press would make it an easy job.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    I wouldn't waste much effort trying to straighten that, just replace it. If you need one, I have the pair off the front of mine which I think are the same as the rears. Or if you do want to straighten it, my press would make it an easy job.
    I have no idea if the front and the rear are the same. I never had to remove the rear ones on the other car. I'll be taking these off soon enough and compare. I do have one spare used pair and a single I think. If they are all the same I should be good. I'll just put them in the "for sandblasting" pile and paint them later.

    What to do about possible slop in the misshapen looking rear hole? Erratic, you mentioned spacers

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