1979 Coupe - The Medium Blue Bomber

[82GTforME]

These are both the original 1979 fenders with the couple of subtle differences.

Overall really good shape other than that dent. As noted on other undercarriage parts, there was the start of some rusting on the lower front under where splash shield and front cover meet. Just on the drivers side though.

Driver side:





https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...qkkqj.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...8yltc.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...n9fwf.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...sjscw.jpg.html

Passenger side is cleaner and less of that rusting:




https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...xoaeo.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...ghlgy.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...06zhw.jpg.html

[82GTforME]

I started by getting the last of the undercoating off. They really don't cover a lot of surface area when they spray from the underside.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...eqddi.jpg.html

They cleaned up pretty easily in order to prep and sand.



https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...k1pay.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...uoxoe.jpg.html

I wire wheeled and removed all of the rust and then used the rust convertor on the exposed metal surfaces. I expect to have no issues once I encapsulate, prime and top coat all of this. The rest of the insides have since been sanded and prepped and are pretty much ready for primer.

Driver side:



https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...8yltc.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...n9fwf.jpg.html

https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...ghjkd.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...ny5l2.jpg.html

I will spend some effort to smooth down the bumps left from the stud welding too. 20 years from now when someone takes off the splash shield they will wonder what they were from. I also need to finish any last work on the dent with better access.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...xbt3s.jpg.html

[BMW Rider]

My scoop had a crack like that too. I ground it out and used a fiberglass repair epoxy on it. I used the same stuff for bonding the rear spoiler and for the front fender extensions after modifying them. I still have part of the tube, so long as it hasn't dried up.

[saleen428]

Three; I was pretty good at providing a lot of detail in my last project. I was excited to dive into the project. This one seemed to start slow and I was less motivated to do so. The site is slowing down and wonder the value others are getting out of the effort. I am getting more involved and seem to have found more inspiration to keep up to date on the work. Also comments like your make me feel the effort is worth the time. Many are on Facebook these days but doing something like documenting a project on there does not work for me or have the same impact.

Thanks for the comments and for checking in and following along!

I for one am getting value out of your efforts and posts here. This is a better format for these types of ‘build over time’ threads as FB is more for snapshots if that makes sense. Keep on keeping on!

[cougman67]

Great work. I’m surprised at how well your dent puller worked. I purchased an expensive one and from what I see, there is no difference in how effective yours worked.

[82GTforME]

My scoop had a crack like that too. I ground it out and used a fiberglass repair epoxy on it. I used the same stuff for bonding the rear spoiler and for the front fender extensions after modifying them. I still have part of the tube, so long as it hasn't dried up.

Thanks Ed. Even if you could give me a brand name or where to look. Was it professional from a body shop supply or at Canadian Tire? The repair does not look or sound hard to do but definitely need to fix it before it's painted.

I for one am getting value out of your efforts and posts here. This is a better format for these types of ‘build over time’ threads as FB is more for snapshots if that makes sense. Keep on keeping on!

Thanks for that. I am sure some commentary or topics may bore some along the way. The 79's may not be everyone's fave but I like showing it off and throwing it out there. If I had a shop or someone else doing the work for me, I'd have no story to go along with a nice car.

Great work. I’m surprised at how well your dent puller worked. I purchased an expensive one and from what I see, there is no difference in how effective yours worked.

Me too honestly. I was worried by buying it in the US that if it crapped out or didn't work properly I'd be stuck not being able to exchange it. Mind you it was only $99 US. I had looked around here including KMS Tools. The cheapest one they had was around $400 Canadian and honestly didn't look much different than this set up. Next up there and elsewhere were getting into semi-pro stuff.

I didn't try the 3 mm studs but the 2 mm seemed to do the trick. I guess the real test of how it worked will be during the final blocking.

[82GTforME]

I also need to finish any last work on the dent with better access.

I flipped the fenders over and I'd say am now 95% ready.

I ended up taking more of the substrate off in places. As I blocked, I had some spots where the factory primer detached and left a void. Not sure what the deal is but I suppose glad I noted it now and not run into issues in the future. This was on both fenders behind the front wheel.



https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...erph4.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...oeayh.jpg.html

I used some filler and then glazing putty to get as much of the panel as flat as I could. Today I moved these out of my way and put them in my basement to wait until I have more to spray. Of course I noticed two spots that I will need to look closer at before priming and do another quick round of putty.

Generally pleased with the outcome. Pics can't show that though




https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...9a1jk.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...xj73f.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...hbib5.jpg.html

[82GTforME]

Somewhere in the life, a previous owner had changed out the antenna. The replacement was a little fold down short thingy. They also added two extra holes

After taking it off, I took it to a friends shop and he buzzed them up for me (I have no welder yet ). I have a nice replacement antenna to use that I scavenged off a junk yard car a while back




https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...opxc8.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...ydld6.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...viue1.jpg.html

[82GTforME]

With the way I organize, I am moving stuff around all the time. I always try to keep one side of my garage open in the event I need to do work on one of our other vehicles or other immediate needs. That or need minimal effort to clean it out.

With the front and back covers ready for their next step and now the fenders and all moved into my basement for now, I hit a small disconnect in my flow and what to move on to next. Still not quite ready to pull the engine or take the doors off to save the space.

On the Tangerine car I never did much to the underside. I redid the front of course and redid the tunnel but left it at that. The front seats back underneath wasn't touched other than the suspension and brakes. The rear end was a bit rusty but not leaking so it all stayed.

This car's diff cover is leaking a bit so will need to formulate a plan around the axle. I think I have an idea and will share that later.

Realizing the condition of a lot of the parts and starting to lean towards believing this to be a lower mileage car, I decided I will take on the effort of cleaning and detailing the underside What's dozens more hours to removing undercoating?


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...n4r9k.jpg.html

I had never removed a fuel tank from one of these cars previously if you can believe it! I looked at some quick videos and it looked pretty easy.

Not as easy by yourself but it came out as good as could be expected...


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...6xrtv.jpg.html

...Especially with just over a five gallon jerry can worth of gas. Dyed orange gas by the looks of it.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...5o7k5.jpg.html

Let the cleaning begin.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...zhnzy.jpg.html

[BMW Rider]

Thanks Ed. Even if you could give me a brand name or where to look. Was it professional from a body shop supply or at Canadian Tire? The repair does not look or sound hard to do but definitely need to fix it before it's painted.

I'd have to go look at it for the brand, offhand I'm thinking it was 3M, it was from an autobody supply shop. It comes in those dual cartridges and uses a disposable mixing nozzle. I have the dual cartridge gun as well for it.

[erratic50]

Good progress on the car!

For what it’s worth, I would go to an 8.8 on the rear. I’ve just seen way too many 7.5’s crap the bed and the cost is so minimal in the upgrade.

[82GTforME]

I'd have to go look at it for the brand, offhand I'm thinking it was 3M, it was from an autobody supply shop. It comes in those dual cartridges and uses a disposable mixing nozzle. I have the dual cartridge gun as well for it.

Ed, no hurry. Text me a picture of the stuff whenever you get a chance. A picture is worth a thousand words!

Good progress on the car!

For what it’s worth, I would go to an 8.8 on the rear. I’ve just seen way too many 7.5’s crap the bed and the cost is so minimal in the upgrade.

Thanks James. I'm still on the fence about any upgrade. I personally haven't had any issue with a 7.5 until the clutch packs blew in my 82 GT. I upgraded the 7.5 in it to an 8.8 but bought a complete, dressed, Cobra brake equipped with Fox axles for it. That means I have the original 82 housing with factory traction bars plus axles so my initial thought is to put that together for this. I have a couple of traction lock carriers and a couple of different gear sets to use too (3.73 and 4.10). This is a stock(ish) build with a C4 that may get an SROD or T5 one day but not now.

Worse case is inspect these gears and reseal the cover with new gear lube, clean it up and run it with the 3.08's in it. It will get pulled some day coming up so we'll see then. Hold that thought.

[82GTforME]

Let the cleaning begin.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...zhnzy.jpg.html

The top of the tank really only had dust. Some of the sides had undercoating that needed to be removed. The thick tar paper-like insulator was in great shape and detached well. It had the typical spray yellow adhesive you'd see in other places holding insulation etc. I will reuse it.

Underneath that you can see a blue stamp.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...jdka7.jpg.html

The bottom side had a much thicker application of the undercoating. They really sprayed that on thick! And possibly year over year! There was also one inconspicuous dent.



https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...g6jla.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...50ecg.jpg.html

Learning from experience I knew not to go overboard with hard scraping to start. I wanted to be careful with any finishes underneath.

I washed what I could, scraped lightly with a couple types of soft scrapers but ended up doing multiple applications of spray on engine degreaser. I would spray and let it soak, use a plastic bristle brush to scrub, lightly scrape, wipe and repeat!

It took a number of hours to do this. Some may shake their head. I know I could have hit it with a wire wheel and painted it black easily too.

In this instance, the results speak for themselves. Very nice condition. There is surface rust around the perimeter where the two sheets are crimped. Some other spots here and there. Better in person actually. Very minute when you look at the entire thing. Look at that little 10 gallon tank!

The Made in USA stamp is still mainly there. I probably wiped over it one or two too many times and it lightened up.




https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...l1i1f.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...m9dmf.jpg.html
https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...ti3ga.jpg.html

[82GTforME]

The fuel tank itself turned out surprisingly nice. Do you think the fuel tank in a car with far from daily driver life would require any coating or other preservative protection from future rust? Not sure if it should be further detailed and clear coated or something.

Let the cleaning begin.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...zhnzy.jpg.html

Again a bit of effort to clean off undercoating and not mar or scratch the surfaces underneath!

All in all, pretty nice and mostly ready to go back in one day.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...8tr46.jpg.html

The straps were black coated from factory and there is some damage and coating loss in small areas. Those will bee to be redone or replaced.

I am not sure on replacement straps for 79's being available. Can anyone comment on that and also the fasteners? These were longer type metric thread that had a groove in it. The groove looks to be a purposeful weak spot in the bolt. Must have been to prevent backing off?

Regardless, due to a little rust, I broke one removing them. I could reuse and not worry but does anyone know if straps and or bolts are available?


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...foxdy.jpg.html

[82GTforME]

Looks to be the original sending unit and still works. I wonder what the yellow band signifies?


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...gzalg.jpg.html

The inside of the tank is quite immaculate. No visible signs of rust, sediment or other issues.


https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/8...ifc1a.jpg.html

[Blainer]

I've seen someone put new bolts in another post. So they are available. Now to remember where I saw the post.....might be a bit difficult.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk

[cougman67]

I purchased a new set of straps. Western Motorsports can get them in for you.

If you order them, say hello to Shannon for me.

Patrick

[gr79]

Got my 79 straps, with the T shaped ends, from NPD. Perfect fit.
Cleaned and reused the old bolts.
Replacement bolts would need a wrench that would fit on the bolt head, accessed thru the frame cutouts.

The long bolt that snapped is intentional i read. Is long for ease of assy on the line, then excess threads snap off for looks.
The factory one with the rivet end is special.
Do not under any circumstances stick finger into frame to stop strap bolt ends from spinning when tightening.
That riveted end with retainer is like a blender blade. Can and will cut finger badly.
Use a tool, like a large hd screwdriver or prybar, to keep the riveted blade from spinning out of position when it grips frame.

[82GTforME]

Thanks for the input guys. With the way I roll, I will be leaning to refinish the straps I have. I will search for a replacement bolt with the pressed in blender blade. Worst case, I will just replace the bolts or just break the other so they are a match and both shorter. Not thinking this would be an easy salvage from a JY car even if I could find one. Chances are rust would make the removal difficult and just break the bolt at the shear location anyways.

A few more fuel tank related pictures. Fuel filler neck and fill tube and the rubber body seal. Both in really good shape. The top facing side of the filler tube has some rust on it. Not sure how to deal with that on the nice electroplated steel. Maybe I will just leave that. Not a really visible spot.




https://i1337.photobucket.com/albums...psot6y8zjh.jpg
https://i1337.photobucket.com/albums...psvbgsaizj.jpg
https://i1337.photobucket.com/albums...ps69mw0f9t.jpg

[82GTforME]

Progress has been slower the past weeks. Spring related jobs around the house and yard and hitting more tedious project tasks have me with less substantial progress to show off.

For instance I pulled the rear wheels off a bit ago to get better access underneath. The rear wheel wells were caked decently with dirt. Again wishing I could have gotten the car to a wash to get some of this off ahead of time.

This was probably one of the worst jobs so far. Awkward to reach in and scrub all of the surface area. There was a very fine sand (thinking winter salt and sand) built up in all of the nooks and crannies that took a lot of scrub and rinse cycles to get it to this point.

I am guessing all told I spent 8-10 hours on this over three separate days!

Here some before and afters. The passenger side had some blue overspray from the poor repair that had been done down that side.



https://i1337.photobucket.com/albums...pscmxsgtrd.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_5832(1).JPG



https://i1337.photobucket.com/albums...pslenswwrs.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_5833(4).JPG



https://i1337.photobucket.com/albums...psbjb2vone.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_5709(2).JPG


While doing this I also cleaned up the rockers in order to properly sand and prep. Really good shape all in all.


https://i1337.photobucket.com/albums...psoayryotu.jpg

Behind the passenger wheel, I have some minor work to fix some damage.


https://i1337.photobucket.com/albums...ps0zolllq8.jpg

[82GTforME]

Well, I seem to have fixed my picture linking issue so on we go...

I left off on the brake shields after cleaning them up.

Brake shields; were the original Ford blue. Pretty scuzzy. Cleaned up decently; degreased and scrubbed, then rust convertor. Plan is to find the correct Ford blue to use, prep them properly and reuse. They were pretty nice underneath. Will need to make new foam gaskets.




http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...mujec.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...pgnq6.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...elgk3.jpg.html

I have tried a couple of different Ford Blue's over the last few years but neither of them seem quite correct. Especially when you put it beside the engine this color is a little too bright. I am going to search for another brand to try before I commit to painting the engine one day. Might even need to get some mixed. I could have spent a little more time on removing the old paint but these will be okay seeing as they aren't seen as much.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5865.JPG

I had some thinner closed cell foam and made new seals to join to the spindle for when install happens.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5866.JPG

[82GTforME]

I have had the onion heads off for quite a while. I had cleaned them and put some rust encapsulator on them. Then they sat...


https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5821.JPG

The plates had some rust on them and figured I had to fully refinish them. On the other project I did paint them. I have a few different aerosols I have collected and think I used detail grey on the last ones. It is close but not 100% to the original.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5820.JPG

I put the plates in Evaporust to soak. I thought I would have bare spots where there was no finish left after the rust was gone but nicely surprised that the rust must have only been superficial. After soaking, I determined they were nice enough to use as is.

I scuffed up and then put some flat black enamel on the onion heads and now they are good to go. Note the metric nuts are silver on this. Our earlier San Jose 79 had the light blue painted nuts (to visually identify them as metric I think). Not sure if these are original but expect they are.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5843.JPG

And I need one OEM boot if I can find one. Too much effort to get out of the junk yard. May just go with cheap aftermarket ones.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5844.JPG

[82GTforME]

While not glamorous, the accumulation of small parts needing to be looked at, cleaned or refurbished, worked on or replaced keeps going on.

I'd rather keep up on these tasks rather than do it all at the end. I would rather reassembly go quickly so I plan to be as ready as I can when reinstall happens!

So lucky me. On the same local 79 Ghia I managed to grab some good parts including the two door locks and ignition cylinder with a key.

Can the existing ignition cylinder be re-keyed to match this new key or just better to replace all three? I am guessing the current cylinder would have less wear and tear.



http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ohk55.jpg.html
http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...hxtyw.jpg.html

On the last project, the handles and locks polished up nicely and these turned out pretty darned good too!



https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5867.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5868.JPG

One of these is the replacement OEM drivers side to replace the drilled out one.



https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5869.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5870.JPG

And while looking to answer my question above about whether these cylinders can be rekeyed, I took the drilled cylinder apart to look inside. After taking apart, I cannot see why I cannot do this myself to the replacement.

One tumbler is not used. The others were a combo of stacked inserts of varying heights. I will give it a try another time I think. The end tumbler, furthest from the key hole was damaged from the drilling.




https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5872.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5873.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5874.JPG

[82GTforME]

So after I removed the bumper cover I find this.


http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...nt4hf.jpg.html

There is a bit of play in the hole for the bumper mount. It must have been due to the direction of impact. At this point I may just straighten the bumper mount and refinish it. It looks to be a pain to fix the hole. No one would be any wiser either

I wouldn't waste much effort trying to straighten that, just replace it. If you need one, I have the pair off the front of mine which I think are the same as the rears. Or if you do want to straighten it, my press would make it an easy job.

Well I did confirm that the front and rear bumper mounts are the same and I had spares.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5686.JPG

The bent one sure pushed in a ways! Still not sure what to do with the oblong hole. Maybe it is fine staying. I cannot see this "bouncing" and banging going over bumps.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...E/IMG_5684.JPG

[xctasy]

Hey there Darran. I have just loved this from the very beginning. Having the same photobucket matters as you though.


One question.


The closest I've gotten to seeing your engine decal is this.




Q1: What kind of engine tag code does a 1980 engine have anyway?

Q2: It's also black, not blue like the others I've seen.




I'm sure that's because of the 1982 model year unbalance and non segamatized, non swiss cheesed later manifold revision