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  1. #76
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    Default Almost stripped!

    I spent a bunch of Sunday afternoon outside in the garage. I still had a bit to take off; sail panels, side mouldings, tail lights, rear bumper cover and bumper.

    I would take off the wheels but they are out of the way and not in my way Some minor items still on to take off: passenger door lock and door handles, trunk harness, latch and lid.

    This is what I was looking at when I was done for the day:



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...f7awf.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...aktg7.jpg.html

  2. #77
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    Default Add another digit?

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    I have not actually verified it Fidel. That is just what the odometer actually read. Doing some more removal has me doubting this has not gone around once.

    Once I have everything apart, I will put up some pictures for everyone to help me determine mileage.
    So with going around the car in more detail as I removed these last items, I am skeptical that this would only be a 17k mile car. While the interior and other signs of originality argue the other way, take a look at the following I have noted.

    I had seen right out of the gate the passenger side below the pin stripe and the front lip of the hood had been rattle canned and a rough tape line. I knew there were some rough looking areas to the texture too. Not sure if the replaced side mirror have anything to do with the below.

    Here is the passenger side. I can't tell if this is thick paint, bondo or a combo of both. I wonder if the car was vandalized? Rusted? Side swiped?

    I do not believe the side mouldings on this side have been removed before.

    I would appreciate your thoughts!

    Rear and front of rear wheel well.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...wxjdj.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...x4wnv.jpg.html

    This is inside the rear fender lip. This is the only indication of stud welding on this side.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ghpq8.jpg.html

    Behind passenger door:


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ztnsy.jpg.html

    Passenger door (need advice on pulling this dent ). There is no visible trauma or other on the inside.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...nwm4s.jpg.html

    Front fender; back, middle and front:




    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ocjve.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...ggecx.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...aydgl.jpg.html

  3. #78

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    You are really tearing this one down! Sorry if I missed it but I presume you won't be blending in New paint in that area but respraying the entire car? I feel your pain with the trim. I recently bent an outer dew trim piece.

  4. #79
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    Default

    Unfortunately with the shorter VINs of the 79, I don't believe you can get a CarFax on this model to help verify the mileage. I don't know that using the exterior condition or exterior damage is the surest way to try and determine mileage either. In most cases if the interior is in great/low mileage condition and if the engine/drivetrain is in great/low mileage condition that can be as much of a true indicator as anything.

    Unfortunately I have seen mint condition cars that get exterior damage early on in the vehicle life. Also cars that are driven only short distances to the grocery store, church, work, etc. may often have more dents, dings, etc. than a car that has been driven mostly on the highway. I don't have any great advice or ideas to help you sort this out, but I wouldn't disregard the possibility of low mileage just because of the exterior.

    I don't recall what your ultimate plans are for the paint and body work on the car. The passenger door ding is going to be difficult due to the crash bar inside. A PDR guy might be able to work that out for you, otherwise you will most likely need a stud gun welder to pull that dent effectively IMHO. If you can work it from the backside at all that will help, but right now I can't remember exactly where the inner crash bar stops relative to the molding line. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
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    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
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    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
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  5. #80
    FEP Supporter NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    WOW! love these pictures.... to fix those dents on the doors I bought a stud gun from harbor freight for $100.00 and a pack of studs. the gun comes with the slide hammer and it worked good
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD)
    1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
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    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009
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    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other

  6. #81
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jlehma13 View Post
    You are really tearing this one down! Sorry if I missed it but I presume you won't be blending in New paint in that area but respraying the entire car? I feel your pain with the trim. I recently bent an outer dew trim piece.
    Jon,

    Yes I am following a familiar path with this car. It only seems fitting. Plus as further pictures will show it is really needing an equally nice makeover!

  7. #82
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Unfortunately with the shorter VINs of the 79, I don't believe you can get a CarFax on this model to help verify the mileage. I don't know that using the exterior condition or exterior damage is the surest way to try and determine mileage either. In most cases if the interior is in great/low mileage condition and if the engine/drivetrain is in great/low mileage condition that can be as much of a true indicator as anything.

    Unfortunately I have seen mint condition cars that get exterior damage early on in the vehicle life. Also cars that are driven only short distances to the grocery store, church, work, etc. may often have more dents, dings, etc. than a car that has been driven mostly on the highway. I don't have any great advice or ideas to help you sort this out, but I wouldn't disregard the possibility of low mileage just because of the exterior.!
    Trey, thanks for your opinions. I see all of your points. I'll continue to post for the sake of conversation and your advice I'd love to think it was under 17k miles! If it wasn't, I'll have to change the 27022 km on the new odometer to (1)87956

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I don't recall what your ultimate plans are for the paint and body work on the car. The passenger door ding is going to be difficult due to the crash bar inside. A PDR guy might be able to work that out for you, otherwise you will most likely need a stud gun welder to pull that dent effectively IMHO. If you can work it from the backside at all that will help, but right now I can't remember exactly where the inner crash bar stops relative to the molding line. Good Luck!
    I am going to go for pretty much the whole deal again this time Trey. Maybe without trunk. Maybe jambs - upon inspection. I think they may be good once I clean them up.

    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    WOW! love these pictures.... to fix those dents on the doors I bought a stud gun from harbor freight for $100.00 and a pack of studs. the gun comes with the slide hammer and it worked good
    Trey I never noticed anything on my first look inside before I had noticed this dent. I did look for stud burns or kinks but nothing of note. It is a little subtle.

    Regardless, you and NAVYCAT have me thinking of Brock's repair on his back quarter. He used the Harbour Freight stud gun. Unfortunately they are not in Canada but we have "Princess Auto" which is quite similar. I will check around and see what is available at least. I seem to have a hobby that may need this in the future again!

    Brock's posts:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1818643

    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Attachment 105994Attachment 105995

    The areas circled in red are the areas where there is a slight bend in the panel. The areas in yellow are the deeper dents which will require most of the work. I wouldn't be surprised if when I start working on the deeper dents, the slight inward bends don't move back without having to pull on them.

    Attachment 105996
    This post is inspirational for me:

    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Interesting weekend to say the least. Started off making a run for some supplies. A HF stud welder, body hammers and some filler and cleaners and it was time to rock and roll for attempt #1.

    Got the rest of the panel cleared of paint and got to figuring out where to place the studs. Figured I would place them in random spots trying to get the easiest pull on the panel.

    Attachment 106136

    I will say the stud welder worked great but the slide hammer that came with the kit left quite a bit to be desired. My biggest issue with it was the less than quality stud gripping wheel they had on it. After a few pulls with it, it liked to lock onto the stud and would not release it. Had to end up pulling the stud off the body, smacking it on the floor and then it would release. Dang HF tools!

    Got most of the outer perimeter pulled without too much drama, other than the puller, and went on trying to figure out how to get that crease out back by the panel bend. I could not get a stud welded in that area due to not having enough ground for the welder, so I got creative. I ended up taking the overlap tab on the taillight panel and bending it out of the way. This gave me enough room on the inside on the crease to use a small punch and hammer to tap the crease out. Worked on it for a while and finally got the gas door fairly even and flush with the body lines which is kinda how I gauged the panel pull.

    Attachment 106137

    Worked on the highs and lows with the body hammers and dollies until I thought they were decent enough and started the filler process. All in all, it did not require much but there were definite spots that came through while sanding that needed a bit more attention. Worked on them some more and tried again. Second time around was much better but I'm still not 100% sure its quite right.

    Attachment 106138
    Attachment 106139

    Need to do some final sand and glaze to see how it looks. I'm afraid the body contour is not quite right as it seems it does not have the right curve as compared to the P/S but maybe I'm just looking at it too hard.

  8. #83
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post

    Regardless, Trey and NAVYCAT have me thinking of Brock's repair on his back quarter. He used the Harbour Freight stud gun. Unfortunately they are not in Canada but we have "Princess Auto" which is quite similar. I will check around and see what is available at least. I seem to have a hobby that may need this in the future again!
    I took a little deeper look into a cheap "Harbour Freight" type of set up and there is nothing really available locally that cheap! The first couple of places were no-go with even having anyhting. There was one on sale at a local tool store that carries the best selection and brands and they had a set on sale for $310 Canadian. I'll rethink my strategy.

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Trey I never noticed anything on my first look inside before I had noticed this dent. I did look for stud burns or kinks but nothing of note. It is a little subtle.
    I did look into the door dent a little. It ended up being behind and below the reinforcement bar in the door I did some gentle manual persuasion and most of it is gone with little effort. Once I really get into the body, I guess I will evaluate where I am. Maybe the moulding will hide what is left



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...2fogy.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...axshy.jpg.html

  9. #84
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    Default Rear bumper cover and bumper

    Here is the cover before when took it off. The car looks good from a distance. Under the light and when taking off you see small things. BTW, this cover has been removed in it's past based on the nuts inside the trunk and the sealant being disturbed (more on that in a bit).

    Rubs.


    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...c8nxl.jpg.html

    Chips and paint cracks.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...zmwxw.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...vvbsf.jpg.html

    What looks like a more pointed bump on the drivers rear corner but no visible damage on the inside.



    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...zstb4.jpg.html
    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/82...jda8a.jpg.html

    Oh and as my luck would have it; no random aluminum bumper on this or our other 79 San Jose car.

    To be continued...

  10. #85
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Oh and as my luck would have it; no random aluminum bumper on this or our other 79 San Jose car.

    To be continued...
    Well that's a shame as I know you wanted to donate it to me if you found one.

    That door might come out a bit more with the use of a hydraulic push from the inside. Some wood blocking against the inner side to spread the force there and a smaller block at the outer skin to push the dent back.
    Last edited by BMW Rider; 01-17-2019 at 11:37 AM.

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