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  1. #1

    Default Car Runs Rough While Cruising Started Stalling

    Looking for some advice. The past few times Iíve taken the car out locally itís run a little choppy. I just took it out for about ten minutes. It started running a little choppy, and then the tech would drop to 0 even though the car still continued to run for a few seconds. Then a few seconds later it stalled. This happened twice within ten minutes of driving. The last time I had a tune up was October of 2015. Any ideas as to what may be going on? Could it be a fuel pump/O2 sensor, electrical issue?

    Unfortunately not really mechanically inclined so forgive me if I ask a lot of questions. Thank you in advance to anyone who takes the time to respond.

    Matt
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  2. #2
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    I would help to know what car you are talking about , year , make , model.
    I presume it is a ford mustang .... but who knows .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by ashley roachclip View Post
    I would help to know what car you are talking about , year , make , model.
    I presume it is a ford mustang .... but who knows .

    Sorry, itís a 1986 Mustang GT
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  4. #4

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    First off, get someone to check for codes, KOEO and KOER. Then, address those. Next do a cold start and get a spray bottle of water and spray down the ignition wires and see if you can duplicate the problem.

  5. #5

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    I’m supposed to bring it in to get checked out next week. Hoping they can figure it out. Of course it’s a crap shoot for one of these local shops who probably don’t work on these older cars very often so anything I could have going in would be helpful. What do the codes KOEO and KOER tie back to by the way?
    Previous:
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  6. #6
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    Key on engine off
    key on engine running
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  7. #7
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    You can get the KOEO and KOER codes yourself with a paperclip.

    You don't need all the stuff they have shown connected in the diagram on the bottom of the page. All you need is a paperclip going from Pin #2 on the self test output block to the self test input wire. I don't know where the connector is on the Mustang. It was usually up on the firewall and probably has a cover on it that says "EEC Test". There is usually a procedure you have to follow for the KOER test like either pressing the brake pedal or turning the steering wheel after it identifies the number of cylinders (or half the number of cylinders as it were) and then there is a goose test. If you do a google search I'm sure you can figure it out. It isn't hard at all. The check engine light will flash the codes to you. In other words the check engine light will flash then pause then flash-flash for a code 12 for example. It takes a little getting used to, but it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

    http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
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  8. #8

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    Ive linked this video probably 1000 times. It has 39 veiws.

    https://youtu.be/z0ehA8cFTkc
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    You can get the KOEO and KOER codes yourself with a paperclip.

    You don't need all the stuff they have shown connected in the diagram on the bottom of the page. All you need is a paperclip going from Pin #2 on the self test output block to the self test input wire. I don't know where the connector is on the Mustang. It was usually up on the firewall and probably has a cover on it that says "EEC Test". There is usually a procedure you have to follow for the KOER test like either pressing the brake pedal or turning the steering wheel after it identifies the number of cylinders (or half the number of cylinders as it were) and then there is a goose test. If you do a google search I'm sure you can figure it out. It isn't hard at all. The check engine light will flash the codes to you. In other words the check engine light will flash then pause then flash-flash for a code 12 for example. It takes a little getting used to, but it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

    http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
    It's an 86 it doesn't have a check engine light, that started in the 87 model year.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Ive linked this video probably 1000 times. It has 39 veiws.

    https://youtu.be/z0ehA8cFTkc
    40.

    I love that clip.
    "Key on engine off, 1987 bird codes"
    lilsammywasapunkrock
    Published on Feb 27, 2017




    And "Koer test 1987 tbird"
    158, ooops, 159 views
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QSi...qxKTpg&index=8
    Published on Feb 24, 2013"

  11. #11

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    After a few times of rigging up a check engine light and a paper clip on an 86 you'll get bored with it. when you do buy yourself a nice ODB1 code scanner before they stop making them and you're forced to do it that way!!

    Runs rough then stalls....... in my experience with my 1986 its either fuel or spark related.



    check your ignition coil to distributor wire. make sure the end on the distributor cap is not nearly fried. Also inspect your rotor and cap.

    Go to harbor freight and get yourself a cheap fuel pressure gauge kit. Zip tie the gauge to your windshield wiper and go for a spin and see if your fuel pressure goes to nothing when it start running like crap and stalls

    If its very hot where you are and especially if you are running ethanol blended fuel, it could be vapor lock. Run purely premium with no ethanol in your Mustang, especially in the warm months as it will help with this problem. The lower your car is to the ground, the more heat the fuel lines absorb from the pavement. Try adding some insulation to your fuel lines under the car, especially back near the gas tank and by the tail pipes and mufflers.

    The other aspect to explore is ignition module and pickup. Usually if there is a PIP problem it will throw a code. Modules, frequently not.


    The most difficult to diagnose problem I had turned out to be caused by a bad seal in my distributor allowing oil vapors up into the area by the pickup. You sometimes get into really stupid problems with cars that have nearly 1/2 million miles on them, that's for sure.....

    If your ignition module on the front of the distributor is just absolutely stupid burning hot when your car is acting up, that's probably it. Source a new motorcraft module -- preferrably an NOS -- and replace it. DO NOT put cheap autostore junk on for this part as they never last. The only ones I've had any luck with at all are Wells and Motorcraft and neither are cheap.

    The other things that's been coming up recently is capacitors in the EEC-IV going bad and causing problems. The ECU is located behind the kick panel in the passenger foot well. It takes about 5 minutes to pop it out and pull the cover off and look for capacitors that are leaking stuff everywhere. If you buy a reman ECU from the mcparts store it will have all new caps in it, or you an go through the trouble of replacing them or having them replaced yourself.

    These are my recommendations off the top of my head.

  12. #12

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    tach malfunctions points to ignition come to think of it. Ignition module is the likely culprit.

    BTW -- there are ignition module relocation kits that help keep the module heat down.

    personally I've always tried to keep the distributor installed so the module points towards the passenger side air box when the car is timed properly. That's technically one cog off on the camshaft but that's how ford started doing it from the factory at one point in the production of the EFI foxbody mustangs. the extra exposure to moving air helps keep the module cool

    Normally installation and in time will point the module just slightly towards the left like towards the radiator cap.

  13. #13

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    If your tach dropped to zero but the engine stuttered along for a bit I would say it was the pickup failing (inside the distributor). I don't think the TFI would do that. That our a ground issue with the coil?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721, K&N filter in stock dual snorkel,
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals.
    3.73 rear. CS5 225/60/15 on 10 holes (street) Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  14. #14

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    I have a module around that behaves exactly the way he described, for what it’s worth. That’s why I said module. :^)

    For me PIP has usually either worked or not worked except the time it got a bath in oil vapor....

    don’t you love these cars.... ask a group of N guys, get N+N+1 answers. Lol. Sure love them when they run right, and they usually do thankfully!

  15. #15

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    luckily the module is super easy to swap... PIP, not so much, but would the module cause the tach to go to 0? I would lean towards the coil first since that is easiest.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721, K&N filter in stock dual snorkel,
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals.
    3.73 rear. CS5 225/60/15 on 10 holes (street) Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    40.

    I love that clip.
    "Key on engine off, 1987 bird codes"
    lilsammywasapunkrock
    Published on Feb 27, 2017




    And "Koer test 1987 tbird"
    158, ooops, 159 views
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QSi...qxKTpg&index=8
    Published on Feb 24, 2013"
    Means alot man. I made both these videos for a guy that said he didn't have time to run codes. So I got a paperclip and my grandpa's old volt meter (we recently cleaned out his shed after he passed and my grandma gave it to me) and posted the videos for him 10 minutes later to prove all it really takes is 5 minutes and a paper clip.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  17. #17
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Matt, who are you taking it too? I wish I knew a good place to tell you to take it to down your way.
    It really does sound like a tfi module issue. If it were me I would replace both the tfi and pickup stator.
    I doubt its vapor lock since you have an 86 i.e. Fuel injected with electric pump.

  18. #18

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    On long drives on hot days my EFI 86 will to this day still vapor lock if I don’t keep my foot shoved in it. It’s mostly a problem with ethanol blended fuels because of its evaporation point vs gasoline

    I had my fuel lines insulated with foil coated bubble wrap for a while. Made a huge difference but it didn’t stand up to winters here.

    Coils VERY RARELY go bad. Mine is original with 1/2 a million miles and lord knows they haven’t been easy miles

    Easy was to replace the pickup stator is to just swap the distributor out, but give the TFI on the new dizzy a throw if it comes with one and run all motorcraft


    if you’re in a crazy hot place then an ignition module relocation kit is worth the investment if you don’t want to fight with making your module point at the passenger fender when the motor is in time. It’s easier said than done but it’s not that bad honestly.
    -- James

    "Trigger" - 86 Mustang GT - Black with red interior. 5.0 T5 built as Z. Original motor ~1/2 million miles. 18 yr daily, 7 a toy
    "Silver" - 85 Mustang Saleen 1985-0006? (Lol) Rare 1E silver / charcoal interior. Mystery. Current project roller, tons of Saleen pedigree

    Also in the stable - 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z

    past foxes -
    1989 Mustang LX Sport 5.0 AOD white/tan black top.
    Wife also had a 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe in the 90's.

    I'm a four eyed pride supporter, are you? Become one today!

  19. #19

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    Wait — I found the problem! The 1990 called and it wants it’s pony wheels back. It’s holding the vacuum line goi g to your MAP sensor for ransom too

    LOL

  20. #20

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    86 GT ragtops rule.
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    Last edited by erratic50; 07-20-2018 at 01:58 AM.

  21. #21

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    Here is is a video from this evening. This was after running it for about ten minutes

    https://youtu.be/0xZbc6OtVQw
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  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    Matt, who are you taking it too? I wish I knew a good place to tell you to take it to down your way.
    It really does sound like a tfi module issue. If it were me I would replace both the tfi and pickup stator.
    I doubt its vapor lock since you have an 86 i.e. Fuel injected with electric pump.
    Was going to take it to a local shop since it probably won’t make it far. The shop is about a mile from me. Hopefully they will know what they are doing!
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  23. #23
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    I have been using Lucas ethanol treatment in everything except the two daily drivers. The cars run better and I have zero issues with vapor lock even on three different carbureted cars on 90 plus degree days.
    Matt, have you done anything to the car lately? Changed out a part or something?

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    I have been using Lucas ethanol treatment in everything except the two daily drivers. The cars run better and I have zero issues with vapor lock even on three different carbureted cars on 90 plus degree days.
    Matt, have you done anything to the car lately? Changed out a part or something?
    i haven’t done anything mechanically other than oil changes since last summer when I replaced the cooling system
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  25. #25
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    Certainly electrical watching that video
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

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