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  1. #1

    Default Camber setting with maximum motorsports camber gauge

    So I have MM camber/caster plates on my mustang, and I went to set the camber today. I started first with the bolts in the middle of the travel range, and the MM gauge showed 5.5 degrees of POSITIVE camber.

    So I now I have the strut pushed as far towards the inside of the engine bay as I can, and am now showing 2 degrees of positive.

    I am reading the gauge instructions very carefully, but it doesn't make sense as to why the camber is still positive.
    Tony

  2. #2

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    Are the plates installed on the correct side?

    I installed a set of MM plates just over a week ago and have my camber set at .5 deg negative with a lot of adjustment to go. Debating on bumping it to 1 deg negative.
    Jeremiah

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  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flinfantryrebel View Post
    So I have MM camber/caster plates on my mustang, and I went to set the camber today. I started first with the bolts in the middle of the travel range, and the MM gauge showed 5.5 degrees of POSITIVE camber.
    What did your eyeballs show? +5.5deg camber should be easily visible to the naked eye. Even +2deg camber should be easy to see. Is the top of the tire leaning out noticeably?


    Quote Originally Posted by flinfantryrebel View Post
    I am reading the gauge instructions very carefully, but it doesn't make sense as to why the camber is still positive.
    I think you need to be reading the C/C plate instructions very carefully, not the gauge instructions. My instinct is the same as Two86fiveohs - my guess is that you have the top plate and/or the bearing plates installed incorrectly, which is drastically limiting the amount of negative camber and positive caster you can get. Can you post up some pics of how your C/C plates look (viewed from above, looking straight down at the top of the strut tower)?
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    What’s the rest of the story with this car? 5 lug swap or new struts installed or just trying to add plates?

    Numerous times people make the mistake with struts to tighten down the bolts while there is no load on the spindle of any type. This pulls everything very positive on camber

    i would put the plate in there and snug it down then identify a reasonably safe way to jack right at the end of the spindle.

    When I did my 5 lug conversion on my 1986GT I used 1995GT spindles and X2 balljoints. A buddy helped me force some negative camber into it. The best we could do initially was +2 as well with the adjustment at the plates maxed out

    I picked up camber bolts and we were able to dial enough camber in that I am -2 with my struts centered in the holes which lets me max out caster completely then too.

    Works really well, for what it’s worth.

    The next time I mess with alignment I’m going to dial in a little less camber. I’ll probably do around -1.5 because right now I get a fair amount of camber thrust on uneven roads. I am also going to dial out some of my 1/16” toe in because with the MM bumpsteer kit it just doesn’t need quite that much toe in.

    But focus on getting as much positive caster as possible and for that your strut needs to be centered at the back of the hole. (Towards the windshield)
    Last edited by erratic50; 07-19-2018 at 07:46 PM.

  5. #5

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    I got a bit side tracked from the car I’m the last few months, but here it is

    i am pretty sure the plates are on right.

    Name:  CC Plate1.jpg
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    Name:  CC Plate2.jpg
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    Last edited by wraithracing; 02-08-2019 at 06:26 PM. Reason: Fix Pictures
    Tony

  6. #6

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    Did you change spindles?

    The passenger side looks right, that looks close to max adjustment, the drivers side has a ways to go! You don't even have the plates moving yet, just the stock adjustment.

    A change to 94-95 spindles will cause this exact problem. There should be enough to get you to -0- or even -2. You could drop on the SN95 lower arms and you will have plenty of negative chamber, but the definitely causes some fender issues. Liek they said, we need to know your total front setup.

    If you replaced your struts, there is a bit of slop in the lower mounting bolts. Loosen them and make sure the are tightened when the strut is pushed toward the center of the car as far as possible.

    Keep us informed.

  7. #7

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    Yes I did change spindles, but they are 84-86 SVO spindles. So far I only attempted the passenger side.
    Tony

  8. #8
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    Those don't appear to be 79-89 C/C plates.What exactly are you working on?
    '86 Med.Canyon Red Met.(original paint) T-top,5 speed,3.55 rear,MAF conversion(A9L).MM adj. RLCAs,T/A,Panhard Bar,and adj MMRSB-3,rear T/A springs 375#-440#,MM C/C plates,MM 1.125" dia.swaybar,STB,4pt KMB,FLSFC's,'03 Cobra rack-n-pinion w/ Saginaw pump conversion.Bilstein MM coilover conversion and A-arms,front spring rate:250#.

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    They appear to be 79-89 CC Plates to me, but I have been wrong before.

    Plates appear to be correct from what I can see. You can check the part number on the bottom of the top plates, CC-012 stamped is the Driver side and CC-013 is the Passenger side.

    The top plate on the Passenger side appears to be maxed out, but can't tell if the bottom plate is adjusted for maximum negative camber or not.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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  10. #10

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    An 83 mustang. I was just comparing the pictures I took with the ones on MM,s website, it’s hard to tell. The box and instructions definitely say 79-89.
    Tony

  11. #11
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    May not be the root of your issue but looking at the driver's side plate,the side against the fender shouldn't be straight,it should have a slight angle.This side on the 83-88 T-bird plates are straight as are the plates for the 90-93 Mustang.

    Looking at the pics in MM's install instructions should show this.
    Maybe MM changed the design recently????
    Last edited by OldManRiver; 02-08-2019 at 06:55 PM.
    '86 Med.Canyon Red Met.(original paint) T-top,5 speed,3.55 rear,MAF conversion(A9L).MM adj. RLCAs,T/A,Panhard Bar,and adj MMRSB-3,rear T/A springs 375#-440#,MM C/C plates,MM 1.125" dia.swaybar,STB,4pt KMB,FLSFC's,'03 Cobra rack-n-pinion w/ Saginaw pump conversion.Bilstein MM coilover conversion and A-arms,front spring rate:250#.

  12. #12
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    Looking at it again it looks like the passenger side plate is correct but the drivers side isn't,but I'm a few beers in.
    '86 Med.Canyon Red Met.(original paint) T-top,5 speed,3.55 rear,MAF conversion(A9L).MM adj. RLCAs,T/A,Panhard Bar,and adj MMRSB-3,rear T/A springs 375#-440#,MM C/C plates,MM 1.125" dia.swaybar,STB,4pt KMB,FLSFC's,'03 Cobra rack-n-pinion w/ Saginaw pump conversion.Bilstein MM coilover conversion and A-arms,front spring rate:250#.

  13. #13

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    I see what you mean by that angle on the outer edge of the driver side plate. It may be that some 90-93 plates got put into a 79-89 box. I will look for the number stamped on the plate as trey suggested and email MM.

    i bought these a little under two years ago.
    Tony

  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    After looking at the website pictures again, I do see what you mean about the driver side slight angle on the fender side not being there as per the instruction pictures. I would just double check the plate numbers to be sure.

    I can tell you that the 90-93 plates DO NOT line up with the 79-89 strut towers. Been there done that and it doesn't work! Not even close!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  15. #15

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    Are you using SVO struts? They are specific to the SVO spindles.
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  16. #16

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    Those c/c plates look at least 6 years old. They may not have part numbers on the bottom of them.

    Take photos from directly above each c/c plate. You'll need someone else to hold up the hood while you do this.

    The MM c/c gauge requires that the car is on level ground. It measures the camber angle of the front wheel relative to vertical. I'm 95% sure that the problem is that the car is not on level ground. You can put a long, flat piece of square tubing across the tops of the front fender. Take the gauge assembly out of the c/c gauge and place it on the tubing. You can then use the gauge to measure how level the car is.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

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