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  1. #1

    Default C5 Transmission in 86 vert died yesterday :(

    Hello fellow members as some of you may remember the woes I've been encountering with my 86 3.8 the tranny finally went yesterday. It started out with a long delay to go into forward gears then it lost it completely. Yesterday I dropped the pan replacing the filter and gasket and car barely wants to move at all now. I found a used c5 at my local salvage yard for $200 and I'm considering replacing it myself. Have any tips or suggestions to help a young enthusiast? Any help surely appreciated

  2. #2

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    So it lasted two years after the suggestion to adjust it's bands, change it's fluid and filter, set it's vacuum modulator, and check/set it's kick down rod? I'm asking because I don't know, since you seem to rarely revisit or respond back in the threads you create, lol...

    Suggestions: adjust it's bands, change it's fluid and filter, set it's vacuum modulator, and check/set it's kick down rod and add a good sized external transmission cooler after it's installed. Do us and yourself a favor, and please revisit and respond back in your threads... there are no stupid questions... ask if you're not sure... there's lots of knowledgeable folks here to help...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 07-11-2018 at 09:29 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  3. #3

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    Thank you WalkingTall! Is there a repair manual with specs And procedures that you recommend?

  4. #4

    Default

    Quite welcome.

    The Haynes manual that includes your car is fine, with most all specs and procedures a person needs to maintain these. I typed out the band adjusting procedure from it in another thread, so here that is pasted:

    "1. Because of normal band wear, automatic transmission bands require adjustment at approximately 24,000 mile intervals. Bands should also be adjusted whenever performance-related symptoms are noted. Normal wear can cause sluggish shifts, delayed shifts, slipping and, in extreme cases, a loss of drive.
    2. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

    Intermediate (front) band

    3. The intermediate or front band is used to hold the sun gear stationary to produce Second gear. If it is not correctly adjusted, there will be noticeable slip during the First-to-Second gear shift or on the downshift from the Third-to-Second gear. The first symptoms of these problems will be very sluggish shifts.
    4. To adjust the intermediate band, loosen, remove and discard (personally, I have never removed and discarded) the locknut on the band adjustment screw (located on the left-hand side of the case (near the shifter lever)). Tighten the adjusting screw to 120 in-lbs (10 ft-lbs), then loosen it exactly 1-1/2 turns (1980 and earlier C3), 2 turns (1981 and later C3), 1-3/4 turns (C4), or 4-1/4 turns (C5). Install a new locknut and tighten it to 40 ft-lbs while holding the adjustment screw to keep it from turning.

    Low and Reverse band
    5. The Low and Reverse band is operational when the selector lever is placed in the Low or Reverse positions. If it is not correctly adjusted, there will be no (or diminished) drive with the selector lever in Reverse (also associated with no engine braking with the selector lever in Low).
    6. To adjust the band, remove the adjusting screw locknut (again, I have never removed and discarded the nut) from the screw (located on the right-hand side of the case, at the rear) and discard it. Tighten the adjusting screw to 120 in-lbs (10 ft-lbs), then loosen it exactly three turns. Install a new locknut and tighten it securely while holding the adjusting screw to keep it from turning."

    A procedure I have followed, using tightening the screws to "snug" as opposed to trying to get a torque wrench with a large flat head screwdriver bit (or the screw head is a square) into the areas, with a number of cars with very good working transmissions after doing so...

    Good luck with it
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  5. #5

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    I agree with Mike, start with the easy stuff and if that doesn't work it's probably time for the clutches.

    That pretty much describes the transmission in my LeMans before I rebuilt it. It leaked from everywhere possible (literally not figuratively). The last time I drove it before rebuilding it, it was about 10 seconds before it would find the gear. Tore the thing apart and only 2 clutches had any friction material left hence the long pause as the drum was pushed forward with fluid until it was engaging.
    2015 Ford F350 CCLB Platinum
    2008 Ford Taurus
    1997 Ford F250 7.3 RCLB ZF5
    1985 Mustang GT T-tops 5.0/T5
    1968 Pontiac LeMans 400/ST-300

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