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  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    back in the day you could buy a whole 8.8 from ford Motorsport minus bushing and axles and this was the install kit for a mustang that had a 7.5.
    Yes, but retailed for about $700
    `82 Mercury Capri 5.0 4.speed / not RS
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  2. #27

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    I am doing this swap too.. I see i will need a T in the middle to connect the hard lines to the cylinders and then connect my 7.5 line to the T.
    I have no idea what this lmr fitting bracket does...it is a single rubber to steel fitting?? There is 2 hard lines to 2 wheel cylinders and 1 line that needs to attach.. what is that single bracket going to do? Must have to just rig it up and forget all this special parts stuff I guess as this makes no sense.

  3. #28

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    For 700 thats cheap if you can select your ratio. I will have about 1k into mine. 300 used. 600 gears and rebuild kit. 150 clutch pack kit. Drums ...shoes. still 28 spline and not even replacing the z spring for thr clutch packs..

  4. #29

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    Spend the time and do it right. There is no sense in rigging up something as important as brakes. You do need the LMR bracket. It rivets to the body of the car. And has one hard line running to it. Secondly you need a soft line from an 86-93 V8 car. It has the T you need and the bracket to bolt it to the housing all built in. The other end of the soft line connects to the LMR bracket.
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  5. #30
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    Spend the time and do it right. There is no sense in rigging up something as important as brakes. You do need the LMR bracket. It rivets to the body of the car. And has one hard line running to it. Secondly you need a soft line from an 86-93 V8 car. It has the T you need and the bracket to bolt it to the housing all built in. The other end of the soft line connects to the LMR bracket.
    Agreed. I just finished this swap on my pace car. Everything was straight forward except for running a hard line to the soft line (mounted with its bracket to the diff housing). To tie into the rubber line, I just ran a new hard line from under the rear seat (inside the car). There is a union there, so no flaring or compression fittings required. Don't recall when Ford moved the line to underneath, but the early foxes had the hard line routed through the interior.

  6. #31

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    When I did mine last year, normally I would not mess with used gears but, Since so many guys are putting 4:10’s in these coyote cars I went with some take outs from a 14 gt with 20k and took a gamble. That paid off in the end. Here is what I spent.

    8.8 axle housing and carrier from 88gt $30 on ebay, one of those pick up only from the south side of Chicago deals. Basket case missing parts etc. differential carrier flange bent had to machine it, but knew that going in.
    take out 3:55 gear set from a 14 mustang gt $50
    ford Racing complete bearing kit with axle bearings and seals from lmr on sale $95
    ford racing clutches $75. Went with the non carbon discs as I didn’t need it to be built.
    the axle was missing the oil slinger and both washers in the cArrier $15
    the bushings were missing $45 for the ford racing kit with c clips and friction modifier.
    Labor was free I built the axle myself, I used the axle shafts out of my 7.5

    $310 total plus oil and rtv that’s about as cheap as it gets. Outside of finding a nice used unit and bolting it in untouched.
    Last edited by Lowetlx; 07-16-2018 at 08:15 AM.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 78futura View Post
    For 700 thats cheap if you can select your ratio. I will have about 1k into mine. 300 used. 600 gears and rebuild kit. 150 clutch pack kit. Drums ...shoes. still 28 spline and not even replacing the z spring for thr clutch packs..
    That was $700 in circa 1992 dollars. I don't even want to think about what that would cost from them today.
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  8. #33
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    When I did mine last year, normally I would not mess with used gears but, Since so many guys are putting 4:10’s in these coyote cars I went with some take outs from a 14 gt with 20k and took a gamble. That paid off in the end. Here is what I spent.

    8.8 axle housing and carrier from 88gt $30 on ebay, one of those pick up only from the south side of Chicago deals. Basket case missing parts etc. differential carrier flange bent had to machine it, but knew that going in.
    take out 3:55 gear set from a 14 mustang gt $50
    ford Racing complete bearing kit with axle bearings and seals from lmr on sale $95
    ford racing clutches $75. Went with the non carbon discs as I didn’t need it to be built.
    the axle was missing the oil slinger and both washers in the cArrier $15
    the bushings were missing $45 for the ford racing kit with c clips and friction modifier.
    Labor was free I built the axle myself, I used the axle shafts out of my 7.5

    $310 total plus oil and rtv that’s about as cheap as it gets. Outside of finding a nice used unit and bolting it in untouched.
    I got ridiculously lucky with the 8.8 I bought for my Boxtop, found it locally on CL, an unmolested mint assembly out of a '90 GT, had never even been cracked open and not a speck of rust. The deals are out there just gotta be patient.
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  9. #34
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    On a street driven car unless you install a panhard bar I would dump the rear sway bar. Snapsteer is terrible and dangerous as HELL!

    Your back and internal organs will thank you too as the ride is WAY softer once it’s removed.

    87-93 4-banger LX springs are the ones to use on a street car too. Way better match to the front spring rate, eliminates that bucking stallion sensation under hard acceleration.

    With th one of both of those things done cornering improves VASTLY also believe it or not. I can let the clutch out on my 86GT at 3000 RPM then floor it and go out into the intersection and turn left around a median without going sideways, believe it or not. Granted my car is a little bit lowered ala chopped 1/2 coil from the springs..... but it’s no slouch either. It runs like a top and every factory pony plus a bunch are present and accounted for.

    A panhard makes things vastly better. I’d still use these springs an rip out the factory swaybar. Maximum Motorsports makes a swaybar kit that attaches to the rear axle and the frame and is fully adjustable. It’s vastly better as the rates are matched to the rest of the suspension.

    to give an idea of how unbalanced front vs rear the GT and TRX cars are in the platform here’s an example ..... the 1993 Cobra uses basically the same 530 lb spring in front and 4 banger rear springs with a greatly downsized front swaybar and a much smaller sway bar out back too. Cobra R uses the GT swaybar in front and rear and GT springs out back with _800lb_ springs in front.

    But unless you have a panhard or watts link curing rear suspension bind the heavy GT swaybar in front and 4 banger springs with no swaybar in back is about perfect

    Hell — I actually have to drop my front tire pressure on my 86GT to combat UNDER STEER! I can’t really make the rearend step out on most corners unless I try very hard — Chew on that one for a moment!

    A good friend of mine also has an 86GT and his was an SCCA class champion. The mods made to my car were after a lot of discussion with him with the intention of another 86GT terrorizing his old class once he moved away. I’m alway too busy to make it to the meets but as far as the car goes it’s mission accomplished. It does exactly what we hoped it would plus a bunch more.

    i have the MM rear sway kit but have yet to install it.
    Last edited by erratic50; 07-16-2018 at 05:18 PM.

  10. #35
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Not to nit pick, but to clarify a few points.

    The 1993 Cobra uses the 1.125 (1 1/8") front bar which was the same size as the 82-84 TRX and the 83- early 84 GT Handling/Heavy Duty Suspension.

    The 1993 Cobra uses the 0.83 rear bar which is the same size as the late 84-85 GT Handling/Heavy Duty Suspension and 86-93 V8 Handling Suspension

    The 1993 Cobra R uses the larger 1.31" (1 5/16") late 84-93 Handling/Heavy Duty V8 Suspension

    The 1993 Cobra R uses the same 0.83 rear bar as the 93 Cobra.
    ​Trey

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  11. #36
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    On a street driven car unless you install a panhard bar I would dump the rear sway bar. Snapsteer is terrible and dangerous as HELL!
    LOL! This JUST showed up on my "Auto" feed:

    https://www.carscoops.com/2018/07/do...-ford-mustang/

    Mike

  12. #37

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    Ok so you need just one of those brackets and then a soft line/T combo.. why not just flare it and P clamp?
    This is n Canada where if you need parts your screwed and waiting weeks on end.. not only that when you get the wrong parts or crappy parts from the US you have to throw them out or try to sell them(yeah right they are junk)
    I still have a torque convertor for a mustang 2 brand new that came from summit... it did not fit my futura but it was listed that way..
    Napa here should have some fittings I can rig it up.. US people yeah order the right stuff and get it in a day or two..
    It will probably take me all winter to source all the parts to install my axle. I got my clutch pack kit the other day.. now need to put it all together and do the cylinders and shoes.
    I need to figure out if this will fix my pinging as under load my engine pings like hell.. hoping the 3.31 fixes it.. have 2.64 now.
    I have never even spun my one tire yet...should have close to 400hp.. i did once on gravel at 5k....its a winter job as you need to drive when you can up here...

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Not to nit pick, but to clarify a few points.

    The 1993 Cobra uses the 1.125 (1 1/8") front bar which was the same size as the 82-84 TRX and the 83- early 84 GT Handling/Heavy Duty Suspension.

    The 1993 Cobra uses the 0.83 rear bar which is the same size as the late 84-85 GT Handling/Heavy Duty Suspension and 86-93 V8 Handling Suspension

    The 1993 Cobra R uses the larger 1.31" (1 5/16") late 84-93 Handling/Heavy Duty V8 Suspension

    The 1993 Cobra R uses the same 0.83 rear bar as the 93 Cobra.

    Yea..... good information trey. Just looked back at my info source and they were - well - also later corrected.

    Anyway my point is if you total up swaybar weight transfer engineering front and rear combined 1 1/8” front with 0.83 rear it’s not much different than a 1 5/16” front by itself....

    Adding back in a rear swaybar in the form of the adjustable bar from MM will most likely cure the under steer I can induce on my 86 when I really hard.

    CobraR having the same sway rates as the later V8 handling cars while having massively heavier springs in front is basically the mismatch I was trying to highlight in the handling suspension in back.

    The 93 cobra rides VASTLY better than the GT cars and it will hugely out handle them. CobraR basically in a league of its own in terms of as sold new handling for the foxbody. Albeit the SVO could put up better lap times in several instances and deserves its credits and an early Saleen will give it an R a run for its money in all instances ( unless brakes are required — lol) and ride just as stiff..... takes a 4 wheel disc equipped Saleen to really have that discussion though.

    LOTS of modded cars that will destroy these old things now, but for their time they were something. Enough parts from the SN95 bin could aggregate the hell out of a CobraR driver without even going after the “good” parts of today.

    I don’t miss the sloppy handling and bad manners of my 86GT when it was Stock even a little bit.....
    Last edited by erratic50; 07-16-2018 at 07:22 PM.

  14. #39
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    So let me get this straight. In order to complete this swap I need to find a soft line from a 86-93 v8? Great that should be fun

  15. #40

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    You can buy one at any auto parts store.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
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  16. #41
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    You can buy one at any auto parts store.
    Oh ok, is it just called a soft line?

  17. #42
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    It should be listed as "brake hose rear center" or something to that effect. It should have a bracket attached to the fitting that attaches to the rear end itself to hold it in place. This is Raybestos P/N BH38372

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  18. #43

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    I just did a 7.5 to an 8.8 last week, here's how I set it up. Not sure if its right but I felt safe under the car. Bought wolmanized 6x6 cut into 16" pieces put under tires with full tire width 2x4s cut on a 45 screwed onto the top ends to hold car in neutral for the front wheels. This raises car 5-1/2 inches. Plenty high enough to get under to soak bolts then loosten but not remove. Once i had all bolts loosened in their sleeves and nuts easily turning I tighten them back up as I didn't want to be pulling and pushing under there with the rear end loose and car on jack stands. Then brake line disconnect and plugged. Once everything was loose but still in place I jacked the axle up and used the 6x6s as cribbing and placed them just in front but still touching the control arm box two on the garage floor and one crossways with 2 flat 2x4s on top of that for a total of (5.5+5.5+1.5+1.5=14) 14". My car is a convertible so not as many good jacking locations. This 14" was plenty high to drop the rear after all bolts were removed and i felt very safe that the car would not slide or move on the wood cribbing. Then just a matter of putting my brake lines onto the 8.8 as I am not going with dual exhaust so didn't need the center mount brake line. these are pretty much identical the axle vent tube unscrews from both so brake lines from one can mount onto the other unless you're going with dual exhaust. So i never moved the 6x6s under the front tires until I was done with the job. I used 2, 6x6x8' cut into 16" pieces for a total of 12 pieces and a couple feet of 2x4s worked great for me. My garage has a 4" fall front to back 21' deep and was worried about roll but no problems. Oh and you may want to save the old shock mounts they will mount on the 8.8, you do all that stuff once you're out from under the car. First rear end I ever swapped, now if i can get that carb right! Good luck!

  19. #44

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    Couple more things about 1/2 way through I realized i had to remove the brakes to get to the ebrake cables and loosten the tension (inside the console on an '83) so i could reinstall into the 8.8 when in place. I had already bought shocks for the '83 so I had to swap my mounts onto the new axle. I drilled a self tapping screw into the top of the driveshaft tunnel with a loop of plumbing strap on it then used wire attached to it to wrap around the drive shaft holding it up and out of the way, use extra wire so you can drop it down to just right when time to reinstall it. I also put the rears back down onto the 6x6s then tightened the bolts. The extra 5.5" higher the car was with 6x6s under tires was plenty of room for me to work under there.

  20. #45

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    Sounds like JD302 went a little over the top with the woodwork. All you need is 2 jack stands and a jack on a level surface to get it done safely.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
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  21. #46
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Agreed!

    Break the lugs loose

    Block the front wheels

    Jack the car up as high as you can from the strongest point on the center of the 7.5 with a floor jack on wheels. Put the car on jack stands in the torque box area where the lower controlarms connect, or towards the rear of your subframe connectors.

    Lower the axle down until its hanging off of the shocks and loosen all of the control arm bolts on the rear diff and the driveshaft bolts.

    remove the brake line where it mounts to the rear diff

    remove your quad-shocks if you have them.

    Loosen up your shock bolts

    remove the tires

    remove the e-brake cables

    Jack the rear diff again until the jack is supporting the rear diff.

    remove the lower control arms and the shock bolts

    position cribbing or jack stands to support the rearend

    remove your final control arm bolts and gently lower it to the stands

    get out from under the car, raise it up on the jack slightly and pull the stands then wheel it out from under the car on the jack.

    to install, more or less reverse the process. That's what I've found works.

    And if you have a buddy with a lift and a shop -- do it there!!

  22. #47

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    Yes, I think I did too but it was my first rear end swap. I wasn't sure how high i had to get it (mine was 14" at the torque boxes) and after having read about people having to use cheater bars on wrenches, I was leary of pulling it off the stands. I used air tools and yes it was easy, yes it was over kill, and best of all, I'm still here to laugh about it!

  23. #48

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    Also the best way to get the springs back in is to bolt up all 4 control arms. Then jack up the axle on at the shock mount one side at a time and then slip in the spring on the opposite side. Way easier this way.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  24. #49
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Interesting on the springs..... I always just set the springs sorta in there and take the rear up a little ways with the jack, make adjustments, up a little more. Once happy go up enough to put that shock back on.

  25. #50

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    With lowering springs you can usually fit them in there. Stock springs are too tall when Uncompressed
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

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