Close



Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 31 of 31

Thread: mystery smoke

  1. #26

    Default

    Regarding the "mystery smoke" coming out of the dipstick tube... I presume it'll smoke out of the oil fill cap if removed also? I saw mention of PCV hose being fixed/replaced, but does the PCV valve itself rattle if shaken? If not, the PCV valve itself (or the mesh/screening crap below it down in the hole in the intake manifold... if memory serves with my '86 5.0L Thunderbird) could be blocked/plugged, which would cause crankcase vapors/smoke out of the dipstick tube etc...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 08-01-2018 at 01:27 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  2. #27

    Default

    I've made some progress. For one thing, the idle set screw was way off. The TPS was out of range also, maybe 1.2 volts. I was able to dial both items back to a better idle which is now quite smooth. Timing is still at 8-10 degrees BTC according to the timing light with the jumper out. I have driven it twice but just down the block and back and no problems yet. It doesn't overheat either although it does seem warm to me. But nowhere near the H on the gauge. I think the stat is factory which is at least 180 degrees. I may still have some air in the system although it can't be much by now.
    I need to drive it and let the computer learn. Then pull codes. As far as the TDC thing, I must have been 180 off. The diz looks good where it is and no problems there. I made sure the diz bolt was tight; that may have been part of the problem. When I had the balancer off last year to replace the timing cover gasket, it looked very good. Old but good. As it only goes on one way, I think it is fine. I paid attention to getting the pointer in the right spot also. It was a little frisky. I'll take a few more trips to see how it goes. I need to hook up the tach dwell meter to it and be sure of the RPMS. Dash gauge shows close to 700 on average now. Any pointers on how to hook the shop tach up correctly would be most appreciated. Don't want to ruin anything. The meter is a little old. Last item of concern is the ECT sensor. Believe it or not, its original. I did test it and it checks out but a new one might be a good idea. I suppose it will gush coolant when I switch them.
    Getting better. Just need some cooler outdoor temps. Thanks for the advice.

  3. #28
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Mike - I believe you are right about that.

  4. #29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Mike - I believe you are right about that.
    If you're referring to me, and "180 off", Sir, where a distributor is stabbed in at TDC of the exhaust stroke TDC instead of the compression stroke TDC... the universe presented exactly that to me with a fellow's vehicle on Friday while on a "house call" to verify/set float levels and dial in a 750 Holley's idle speed and mixture that I had built for his truck... before any dialing in could take place though, the cranking, no start, and earth-shaking gunshot backfires out the exhaust needed to be addressed, LOL! Firing order and distributor rotor position and crank/damper position appeared correct... removed the valve cover to see what #1's rockers/valves were doing at that point... exhaust just closing, intake just opening... wrong TDC... hence the spectacular gunshot backfires. Pulled distributor, rotated crank 360-degrees, reinstalled distributor, va-voom
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #30

    Default

    Double checked the TPS voltage at closed throttle and it is good, right at 1 volt. I managed to hook up a shop tach and the meter shows idle is near 650. I drove it a few times today and the car ran great. No hesitation or stumbling. Plenty of power and throttle response. Temps today are near 85. Car definitely does not overheat as the temp gauge showed right in the middle. Dash tach shows maybe 200 RPMs higher but the idle is smooth and car sounds good. I think it just needs driven. I'll pull codes in the near future but hopefully this repair is complete. Car is fun again.
    Thanks everyone.

  6. #31
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    If you're referring to me, and "180 off"......
    No—mystery smoke and the pcv valve mesh you mentioned.


    Sir, where a distributor is stabbed in at TDC of the exhaust stroke TDC instead of the compression stroke TDC... the universe presented exactly that to me with a fellow's vehicle on Friday while on a "house call" to verify/set float levels and dial in a 750 Holley's idle speed and mixture that I had built for his truck... before any dialing in could take place though, the cranking, no start, and earth-shaking gunshot backfires out the exhaust needed to be addressed, LOL! Firing order and distributor rotor position and crank/damper position appeared correct... removed the valve cover to see what #1's rockers/valves were doing at that point... exhaust just closing, intake just opening... wrong TDC... hence the spectacular gunshot backfires. Pulled distributor, rotated crank 360-degrees, reinstalled distributor, va-voom
    Oh yes, the do all sorts of popping and banging and not starting like that!

    One shortcut I’ve learned over the years is crank to the nearest TDC. If it acts like that with it 180 out pull the distributor and rotate the rotor 180 degrees then restab it.

    My observation is on a ford smallblock the factory pointing on the rotor at TDC with exhaust open on #1 is directly forward. Engine ready for spark on 1 is always pointed directly at the firewall. That will get you to where there is room for advance and retard, etc.

    Foxes are better with the rotor relative to #1 still timed right but the distributor clocked slightly differently to maximize aid flow on the ignition module.

    just my observations.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •