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  1. #26

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    Cool. I guess it would be nice to be able to compare the dash gauge and aftermarket one at least so I know roughly how accurate it is, and how it behaves.

    Just to make sure, the size hole I want for the gauge sender is 3/8" NPT, just like the ACT sensor, correct?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Pretty sure its the size.
    Have nothing to measure that.
    Going on the info from rock auto site
    certain brands list specs like the thread. Is where i found the 3/8-18.
    Is ACT same as coolant? Not familiar. Air charge temp switch.
    Could look up an ACT sensor for the year engine and see if spec is listed for thread.
    The tee and housing are tapped for coolant temp sensor size.
    Looks the same threads. If i had one, could check for sure.

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Pretty sure its the size.
    Have nothing to measure that.
    Going on the info from rock auto site
    certain brands list specs like the thread. Is where i found the 3/8-18.
    Is ACT same as coolant? Not familiar. Air charge temp switch.
    Could look up an ACT sensor for the year engine and see if spec is listed for thread.
    The tee and housing are tapped for coolant temp sensor size.
    Looks the same threads. If i had one, could check for sure.
    I'm fairly sure they are the same.

    By the way, I emailed LMR to see what my options are for my radiator cap (like say, one with a built in gauge), and it sounds like I am stuck with only the SVE cap. Even the adapter from that no-spill funnel I got doesn't really fit the same. Frustrating. I'm going to have to modify it.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 07-09-2018 at 05:37 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #29

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    When I did the Explorer intake swap, all of the manifold sensors were the same tap size IIRC.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  5. #30

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    We would always use T fittings and hook up aftermarket gauges to go with the stock gauges or idiot lights. The way I see it is 2x the likelihood of seeing there is a problem before itís catostrophic!

  6. #31
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Cool. I guess it would be nice to be able to compare the dash gauge and aftermarket one at least so I know roughly how accurate it is, and how it behaves.

    Just to make sure, the size hole I want for the gauge sender is 3/8" NPT, just like the ACT sensor, correct?
    Just a thought, but to keep it simple for the time being, why not just swap in the mechanical sender for a week or so, just to see if you even have a problem with the temp? I like the idea of having both gauges, and I don't like having a "dead" gauge in my dash, which is why I kept the old sender to reinstall later on. I never did, because I really liked the other gauge better. That said, if you run the new gauge for a few weeks, you will be able to diagnose if you actually have a temp problem or not...if you don't, then you can simply swap in the old sender and plug it back in. If you like both gauges, then by all means drill and tap or get a tee, whatever works. but I hate to see you creating more work for yourself when your original problem is really the purpose for all of this!

  7. #32
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    A mechanical unit is easy to calibrate with a candy thermometer and a pan of water heating on the kitchen stove.

    Mike
    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
    My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red

  8. #33

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    Yeah, I could certainly do that, just hook up the aftermarket gauge for now. I grabbed a Jegs one. The options on Summit were surprisingly few and surprisingly expensive. The Jegs one is a mechanical full sweep (my preference) for $39. Can't beat it!

    I didn't know they needed calibrating. Good to know.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #34
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    cal∑i∑brate

    correlate the readings of (an instrument) with those of a standard in order to check the instrument's accuracy.

    A standard kitchen candy thermometer is probably much more accurate than a $39 made in China temp gauge.
    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
    My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red

  10. #35
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Was warm enough out today for the mech gauge to read 205 and 210.
    Then noted the factory one read between the 'O' and 'R' or right on the 'R' at 210.
    Guess it could not decide. Good as a backup now.
    Mech is great. I look at them more than the factory one.
    Have a 3 gauge setup in the truck. Temp, vac, oil pressure. All full sweep.
    Bought Autometer angle inserts to angle them to read easier.
    Took the Ranger ashtray out. The 3 in a bracket fit perfectly there.

  11. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    cal∑i∑brate

    correlate the readings of (an instrument) with those of a standard in order to check the instrument's accuracy.

    A standard kitchen candy thermometer is probably much more accurate than a $39 made in China temp gauge.
    Okay, I got you.

    GR, why a vacuum gauge? I would put more gauges in mine, but it wouldn't fit my stockish theme very well. I suppose I could maybe make something that would hide them most of the time or something. It just seems to me when people add a bunch of gauges on an a-pillar pod or whatever it's just something they do to make their car look more racecar. "Watch out for me! I've got gauges here!"
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #37
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Have vac gauges in the Ranger and Mustang. And a handheld for tuning.
    Mustang one is Autometer combo vac/boost in a pillar pod for easy reading.
    Not intended for looks, only function. Is a great spot to monitor a gauge when driving.
    Used to have it in dash, hole now occupied by VDO voltmeter.
    Have used vac readings as a tool for tuning and diagnosis aid since the 70's.
    When they are permanently on board, can see whats going on. Catching vac leaks.
    Driving for economy, monitor patterns when engine's running good or acting up.

    Vac/boost or plain boost common in turbocharged engine apps of all kinds.
    Not common in n/a apps, except to monitor engine health.
    Personal item i guess.

  13. #38

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    I meant no offense to you. I just meant I feel like that's what people would think about me if I added a bunch of gauges.

    I wouldn't know what to do with what a vacuum gauge is telling me.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default All to help keep engine in best efficiency range possible.

    Pod look:
    I agree with the thought about seeing multiple pods lit.
    Especially in a ricer cruising at night. Or the diesel monster truck cruisers.
    A doctor monitoring the patient. The scientist in his lab. The astronaut or pilot. Gadget man.
    The young racers nod if they see it so i am in to them. Old people cant see it.
    People have stickers i would never display. SUV dvd players hanging down look dumb too.

    Why pod choice:
    Went a pillar pod. Needed visible and undistracting location, no cutting of dash.
    Mounts with one screw, same hole and screw holding molding. Is angled fine for viewing.
    Wires simple tuck along the pillar from pod to side dash gap. Or drill hole in trim for hiding wires.
    Black tape hides them on surface. Pod looks factory from inside. Least intrusive mount. Easy wiring.
    No good space under dash. In console not an option. Keeping ashtray clock and display.
    Did not want cup pods, column mounts, blocking dash gauges or sticking out.

    Vac gauge use:
    Vac gauge is sort of old school. Boost is sort of new school. Both been used for
    Car has a factory boost light. Turns green at 1#+ boost.
    But is an idiot light. Without gauge, no way to tell how much boost.
    Boost gauge defiantly needed if modifying boost levels.
    Vac tells how deep the engine is breathing. Opposite of boost.
    Gauge monitors air pressure in intake manifold.
    Just another pressure gauge to cover another area of the engine

  15. #40
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I use the vac part of the mech gauge to keep fuel mileage up when driving for economy.
    Mostly so the carb power valve stays closed when accell from stop. A light pedal.

    Geeking too:
    Also am using Garmin GPS in truck and car to monitor fuel mileage with GPS regular functions.
    Both have the cool ecoChallenge and ecoRoute software programs.

    If cars had OBD II, could use my bluetooth Garmin to monitor engine subsystems in real time.
    All that is needed is a now discontinued GARMIN ecoRoute HD Vehicle Diagnostics Communicator device.
    Android phones can do this too with app and bluetooth adaptor.
    http://www.gpspassion.com/forumsen/t...opic_id=132371



    https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...a3775/4294223/

  16. #41

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    Cool. I can understand that.

    I was thinking maybe I could maybe eventually mount my temp gauge permanently in my '97 T-bird pop-out ashtray...
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  17. #42
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
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  18. #43

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    Yeah, that's an option too.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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