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  1. #51

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    Alright, so we're back to this finally. I removed my combo valve and started rebuilding it today. Here's the pressure differential valve piston coming out.



    Got that all taken out and cleaned up and stuff. New O-rings from Muscle Car Research all matched up and installed.



    So, then it occurred to me that I hadn't seen a spring, and that got me wondering of I missed something. Thought maybe I could find an exploded view online or whatever. Well, Muscle Car Research just so happens to have complete instructions for rebuilding these linked on their page!

    https://www.musclecarresearch.com/E0ZC-2B328-AA-rebuild

    Okay, so no spring. Clearly it is the VERY same Combination Valve as I have pictured on their instructions. But I noticed one little part that was different. The piston on their Pressure Differential Valve was a separate piece from the end fitting. Mine came out as one piece. Even after cleaning it up and stuff, it wasn't obvious to me that they are supposed to be separate! I could not get them separated by twisting or anything like that. So I ended up needing to find something small enough to stick into the end port so I could knock the piston out of there. I ended up needing to use a drill bit! It was the only thing small enough I could find! None of my punches are that tiny! Finally got them separated.



    They had corroded themselves together pretty determinedly! It's clear this is a BIG contributor to my problem if not THE contributor! Oh, but wait. We're not out of the woods yet. I've still got that thingy to make sure the valve doesn't move. Here's a look at how the Brake light switch rides on the piston.



    Well now we get to the tool itself



    Yeeeeaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh, it's WAY too big for the hole. Sooooooo, not sure what I'm going to do to hold it in place now without making a huge mess. No reason I can't modify the switch into something that will do it, i suppose, since my wiring doesn't use that switch. It uses the one on the M/C reservoir.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #52
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    I couldnt even get my guts out, so just bought a new one and ripped it apart then installed a ford racing adjustable valve....... oh and that orange plug, what I did is found the right size dye (tap and dye) and made me some new threads.... worked great
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  3. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    I couldnt even get my guts out, so just bought a new one and ripped it apart then installed a ford racing adjustable valve....... oh and that orange plug, what I did is found the right size dye (tap and dye) and made me some new threads.... worked great
    That's not a bad idea at all! My only concern is that if I needed to make the plug itself smaller so the die would even fit on it, I don't have a good way to do that evenly. Were you able to just start cutting threads, or did you have to make it smaller first?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  4. #54

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    Brad,

    That is definitely going to fix your problem.

    I've never needed to put a fixed pin into the hole to keep the shuttle valve from moving when bleeding the brakes. For some reason the GM crowd insists on it. I don't know why.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  5. #55
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    I've never needed to put a fixed pin into the hole to keep the shuttle valve from moving when bleeding the brakes. For some reason the GM crowd insists on it. I don't know why.
    I have had the same experience myself, but wasn't sure if maybe this is the one automotive area that I am lucky!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
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  6. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Brad,

    That is definitely going to fix your problem.

    I've never needed to put a fixed pin into the hole to keep the shuttle valve from moving when bleeding the brakes. For some reason the GM crowd insists on it. I don't know why.
    AWESOME. I can't wait to have properly functioning brakes!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #57

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    Even if I probably didn't need to hold the switch pin in place, I came up with something to do it. There is a hole in between the two contacts on the switch. You just need to find a screw small enough to thread in there and it will keep the pin from moving.



    But.... that's moot now anyway. I cross threaded the sh** out of one of the lines on the combination valve while trying to install it jamming my hands down where they don't fit and can't see what I'm doing while trying to be as fast as I can to try and minimize the mess of the dripping lines.

    So, I guess we move on from here. New combination valves apparently can't be had, so I'm going to end up eliminating it like we were talking about anyway. Pretty frustrated, but at least the solution is cheap. And I have a good spot for a line lock eventually.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #58
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    At this stage, could bypass the combo valve and splice in a temp line directly from m/c to rear brake line.
    Connect or plug the front brake outlet.
    Use a new brake line with fittings and a union to connect it to rear brake line fitting, that was at the valve.
    Then see if rear line will purge correctly.

    EZ bleed homemade kit, one person. No pump-and-hold stuff, Miti-Vac kits, pressure or vac bleed tools, jacking.
    One empty glass jar, one quart size. Pickle, mayo. Need a glass jar for it's weight.
    One empty 16-24 oz plastic bottle. Soda, water, whatever.
    Couple feet of clear vinyl tubing, size to fit tight on bleeder screw.
    Brake fluid.

    Insert plastic bottle into the glass jar. The glass jar only holds the plastic bottle and keeps it from tipping.
    Fill the plastic bottle 1/2 full of new brake fluid. Enough to submerge one end of vinyl tubing well into fluid.

    If you are very lucky to have help, have them watch the clear vinyl bleed line while you work the pedal.

    Crack open the bleeder 1/4-1/2 turn.
    Wrapping bleeder threads with teflon tape keeps air out when cracked open.

    Connect one end of a clear vinyl line on the bleeder screw. Has to have a tight fit.
    Stick the other end well into the 1/2 full plastic soda or water bottle of brake fluid. Make sure it stays submerged.
    Best if everything is kept below bleeder level.

    Go in car and push brake pedal down easy 8 or so times. Let pedal up easy. Repeat.
    Check m/c fluid level every 8-10 pushes. Of course do not let m/c run dry.
    Repeat pedal pushing till clear line has no air slugs or large bubbles. Very tiny bubbles ok.

    Takes 20-30 pumps to be certain a line is purged good. That's about 6-8 oz brake fluid.
    When brake line is all purged, letting up on the pedal only sucks back a little bit of fluid from bottle.
    And by this time, any fluid in the clear line is new.
    No need to hold brake pedal down at any time to check progress or refill m/c.

    When clear line shows solid fluid, first close bleeder, then remove clear vinyl line. Save all for next time.
    Dump fluid out of plastic bottle. Cap, discard, or save jar with plastic bottle and 1/2 the fluid for next time.
    Works for me every time. Never have had to touch the combo valve.
    Just did my FT caliper couple hours ago. 20 minutes. Work the pedal till air is gone.
    Last edited by gr79; 05-27-2020 at 10:34 AM.

  9. #59
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post

    Insert plastic bottle into the glass jar. The glass jar only holds the plastic bottle and keeps it from tipping.
    Genius!!!
    '85 GT

  10. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    At this stage, could bypass the combo valve and splice in a temp line directly from m/c to rear brake line.
    Connect or plug the front brake outlet.
    Use a new brake line with fittings and a union to connect it to rear brake line fitting, that was at the valve.
    Then see if rear line will purge correctly.
    I think I will be putting a permanent union and tee there in place of the PV. There's no reason not to, since I have an adjustable PV downstream of there. I just hope the stupid useless auto parts stores around here have them in stock. I'm fully accustomed to having to wait for my parts even from the physical stores. That's why I get so annoyed when something like this happens.

    I like your EZ bleeder!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #61

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    Here's my solution. I'll come back and make it look nice later, but at least for now it's not sitting there open. I did have the lines plugged as best I could, but I think they were still dripping.



    I'll report back when I've got things all bled and everything.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #62
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    For parts like brakes, i go online and look them up myself. Faster, more accurate most of the time.
    Can compare brands, cost too.
    When i find the part, i take a pic with my phone of the pc screen to clearly show the part number and pic of part.
    Then take into store and show them what i need, not what the computers say i need.
    AZ nearby has been good for basic brake parts so far.
    They let me back there to pick my parts. Everything on the brake line rack is mixed up.
    NPD is close by and is a very good source for common quality brand parts, as is Rock Auto.

    Have sourced parts from Oreally?s, Advance, Pep, NAPA.
    Hub stores have more inventory if needed pronto or to compare at the counter for matching up.
    Got to watch all stores for excessive markup on same part.

  13. #63

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    This is what I used. Perfect solution. Bolts in the same place and uses same fitting size.



    https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1179/overview/
    Last edited by quickshift; 04-07-2019 at 06:21 PM.
    84 Cougar, 90 HO with 700DP, Edelbrock RPM intake, 1.7 RRs, shorty's and SS exh, T-5, KC clutch, Hurst pro billet, line loc, 8.8, 4.10s, suspension mods....blah, blah,blah.

    71 Comet, 289, Liberty TL, 9", 6.00s, 11.9x @ 112.... blah, blah, blah.

  14. #64

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    Autozone did have what I needed. Although, I would have preferred the longer type of 1/4" union for the rears so my lines weren't all jumbled up back by the firewall. Not sure how I'm going to solve that yet. Like I said though, this does make a good place to put a line lock eventually.

    That Willwood thing is cool. Not much use for me though since I already have an adjustable PV.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  15. #65
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    That's not a bad idea at all! My only concern is that if I needed to make the plug itself smaller so the die would even fit on it, I don't have a good way to do that evenly. Were you able to just start cutting threads, or did you have to make it smaller first?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    yep I just started cutting threads and I was looking for some washers today and I came across mine lol
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  16. #66

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    Welllllll, I took it for a drive today and......... I... don't know? It does function at least as well as it did before I started down the combination valve rebuild road, I know that much. But I took it down a dirt road again, and tried to get the rears to lock up prematurely and wasn't able to. In fairness it was a short drive, and maybe I was doing something wrong. Maybe I'll wait for a wet day and take it out then.

    I finally got a normal session of brake bleeding done with no issues. I'd had a problem with one of the adapters I put in place of the combination valve getting de-threaded and leaking like crazy on the first attempt to bleed them. Ugh. Maybe I didn't bleed them enough to get the pocket of air from the combination valve area out at the wheels. I don't know.



    I was hoping for a definitive victory today, and didn't get one.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  17. #67
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    On mine the rears lock up only when pushing down the brake pedal to the max.
    On marbles is not hard to do.
    Think i was able to lock em up with the hand brake at one time.
    Last time i locked rears up was when the front line broke couple weeks ago.
    Had no front brakes due to line leak.
    The Ranger only lock up rear when wet out or on dirt and even then rarely.
    Has rear only anti-lock system. Or so they say. It will lock em.

    Disconnect each line section at rear brake cyl, rear tee, and see if fluid flows (or did you already?).

    Never had to reset combo valve when purging brakes. Truck or car.
    Have done the job many times on my rides.
    Of course, the Ranger's BRAKE and RABS lights have been on for years.
    The Mustang's BRAKE light had not worked for years.
    Last edited by gr79; 04-27-2019 at 10:39 PM.

  18. #68

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    Good to know it should be pretty hard to lock the rears up. Last time i was able to set my rear pressure that went in a way I expected it to, I had different rear brakes (SVO) and old tires.

    I did open up the right rear and see if it would flow. It did, but only a trickle. Much less than the right front when i opened up that one.

    One reason I think my pressure differential valve may have gotten out of whack is, I replaced most of my hard lines as well as all of the calipers, and had to get all new fluid into them.

    It's possible there's something wrong with my adjustable proportioning valve. We discussed that at the beginning of this thread, and it's a pretty decent one, so it really shouldn't be the problem. If there even is a problem, that is. Like I've said before, the brakes feel pretty good, and slow the car down RIGHT NOW.

    I'm a bit concerned that I accidentally left my parking brake on when I bled the brakes yesterday. I don't know if that affects things or not. Also, I accidentally ran the master reservoir pretty low. Maybe I'll buy myself another big jug of brake fluid, re-bleed the master, collapse all the caliper pistons in case there are bubbles in the calipers, and bleed another gallon through there and see if it gets me anywhere. g******it, I'm so sick of this s**t.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  19. #69

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    Assuming that the proportioning valve isn't broken, when bleeding the brakes, fluid should come out the rear and front bleeder screws at the same rate. The fluid is being pushed by the same force, from the same diameter piston.

    Either the Prop valve is messed up.

    There is a restriction in the rear brake lines.

    There is air in the brakes somewhere. This could be the front or the rear.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  20. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Assuming that the proportioning valve isn't broken, when bleeding the brakes, fluid should come out the rear and front bleeder screws at the same rate. The fluid is being pushed by the same force, from the same diameter piston.

    Either the Prop valve is messed up.

    There is a restriction in the rear brake lines.

    There is air in the brakes somewhere. This could be the front or the rear.
    Okay, that's what I thought. Thanks

    Trying to think where a restriction might be. I'll have to look over the whole rear system with fresh eyes and see what I can see. I know I picked up that weird 8.8 center bracket banjo fitting used and bought a new parts store universal banjo bolt for it. Could be that.

    I will try more bleeding too. I think I should buy stock in a brake fluid company.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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