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Thread: PCV hose

  1. #1

    Default PCV hose

    Here's a good one. If I read it right, the part number on my 32 year old PCV hose is E6SE-6A886-AC. 86GT. The part number is for a T-bird, no? I know the 5.0 engine found its way to the T-bird. Of course my hose leaks and I cannot find a replacement anywhere. I did manage to pick up some good 11/32 inch ID hose and I might be able to just make one. The reproduction PCV hoses out there don't look even close. Not sure why Ford ran the thing to the front of the upper intake but it does work. I'm guessing that shortly after, the upper changed and the hose connects somewhere else.(?) Of course if anyone has a good one, well...
    M

  2. #2

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    I used to own a 1986 Thunderbird 5.0L "Elan"... I did love the car... beautiful grey, plush interior, digital dash BS, very nice ride, etc... but "low-po" 5.0L engine though... MUCH better ride though with the addition of 3.73:1 gears into it's 7.5 Traction-Loc, and B&M shift kit into it's AOD, and 60mm throttle body and fuel pressure adjustment...THEN it acted like the beast I thought it should, LOL... but besides the camshaft and the throttle body, it's all the same mediocre garbage.... so, you're on the right track... do whatever you need to do to make things right, and things will be fine... inline mediocre, but fine...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  3. #3
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    I'm replacing Factory upper and lower intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets and this brittle cracking pcv hose from the first post. I have a spare 1990 Mk VII 5.0 intake on the ground and the 87+ 5.0 uses a different PCV hose set up.

    I bought the MAHLE gasket set - I always pitch out the cork and replace it with a thick bead of RTV - I used Ultrablack this time. I cleaned all surfaces with Lacquer thinner as per the shop manual. i didn't want to put blue gaskets all over the engine - the factory ones looked similar but the cork had failed badly.

    1986 5.0 HO uses E6ZZ-6A664-A for a PCV valve hose (with that ID# E6SE-6A886-AC). it's about 17 inches long. it comes out of the PCV valve straight up and turns toward the drivers side, turns forward and runs under the runners on the drivers side of the intake. crosses under the middle of the plenum and turns toward the driver's side, then there's a Nylon 90 degree barb fitting and a short length to stab it into the Forward facing barb under the plenum.

    I measured the barbs at 0.340 on the flat and .410 on the bulge of the barb. I figure that 0.375" (3/8") fuel line should be fine - i'll try it. I'm going to use (BLUE) Parker Push-Lok plus and incorrect Gates 28622 elbows to get my 4 bends. will report back if it idles poorly or if the gaskets give problems. and i'll probably swap the PCV hose out for a black one the first chance i get because i'm more interested in keeping it stock looking.

    That being said - Here's a quick shout out for Walking-Tall - I'd like to know about the fuel pressure mod on your thunderbird and which 60mm throttle body you used. My car is a stock but heavy) 86 5.0 convertible and it needs some help in the zoom department - again - i'd like to keep it stock-ish looking so sneaky stuff only.

  4. #4

    Default

    Go to coolcats.net

    Do the h.o. swap and bring it up to mustang spec, its relatively cheap and easy to do. Come back here with any questions.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  5. #5
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    Most of the time - in the past, I convert an 86 style to an 87 and up.
    The reproduction hose that was spoken about above is for the 87 style that runs from the pcv valve to the end of a "T" fitting at the rear of the upper intake. From the other side of the "T", a 3/8" lines runs and bends to the front barb. you can google pics of the underside of an 87 intake and you will see what i mean.

    That piece - to the best of my knowledge has never been re-created - and maybe not needed to be since you just cut a piece of 3/8" gas hose and use that for that second part of the hose.

    My biggest gripe with ford is the dedicated MAP sensor barb - next to the metal tree.
    That barb is 3/8".
    The actual MAP sensor barb is close to 5/16" or possibly a tad smaller.
    If i remember - i used to use a small piece of 3/8" hose and a step down connector from a 3/8" to a 5/16". Then a 5/16" hose to the map sensor.
    I don't understand why ford didnt use the same size connector for the barb itself instead of a weird hose that was preformed for a step down built in - if i remember correctly - which you cannot buy.

    If i'm incorrect on this - ill let someone chime in and correct what i wrote.

    thanks,
    jason

  6. #6
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    Also i would like to point out that there is some bad info on the coolcats site.
    Dont get me wrong - i like that site, but never the less - there is some incorrect info.

    They talk about swapping to the E7 heads.that is a 50/50 shot. many have done it successfully and some have had PTV clearance problems due to poor tolerances on the 86s.

    The cam info is wrong.
    He mentions the later cams are the one to choose.
    That is totally the opposite.
    The 85 (roller 5spd) - mid/late 88 was the best cam to use.
    Ford softened the ramp rates on later cams due to valve train noise which costs 2 or 3 hp i believe.

    The EEC-IV is partially wrong too. The 86's had catch codes as well (VM1, etc). the DA1 is a 5spd EEC. I have had an 88 auto - and it was not a DA1.

    I stopped there, but like i said - not bashing the site. just pointing out there is some incorrect info.
    Again - if i am incorrect on any info above, please correct me. i dont want info i give to be incorrect - or - at least i want someone to correct my errors - so someone can have correct info.

    thanks,
    jason

  7. #7
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    Well, it took two tries but i usually have to do things twice.

    thanks for the direction, i might go after an intake manifold swap - this remains to be seen.

    i couldn't buy a 3/8 to 1/4 barb-barb fitting on a saturday in a city of 1.2M while we're playing 'plague' so i bummed a foot of 3/8" copper line and a foot of 1/4" copper line and bubble flared three ends and soldered it together with flux and plumbing solder. the barb fittings are 3/8 at the manifold and i pushed cheap 1/4 fuel line onto the map sensor and the vacuum line out the front by the distributor. the cheap dorman PCV valve grommet didn't fit well - so i glued it with ultra-black rtv.

    i ended up using 4 gates glass-filled nylon elbows for the PCV hose and about a dozen constant tension spring clamps overall to chase all the vacuum leaks out. i overtorqued the upper plenum the first time so maybe that was the (partial) cause of the problems.

    runs better than it has in years and i'm happy with the results.

    on to my other 4-eye..

    -John

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