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  1. #1

    Default Roof skin question

    I have an 82 foxbody that needs roof skin replaced. My question is are all years of foxbody hatchbacks roofs the same?? like I could cut a 92 roof off and it swap on my 1982?

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The roofs for hatchbacks are interchangeable from 79-93. There are some differences in the channels of the hatch area from the early models to the later models, but the roof will interchange without any issues. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member
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    Should be available new from Dynacorn by now.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  4. #4

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    Thanks guys. I thought so but wanted to confirm before I dropped the cash.

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    Should be available new from Dynacorn by now.
    I have not seen any information in regards to one being available at this time. Hopefully they are, but still haven't seen anything.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6

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    Yeah there wasnt nothing on the site. I havent found anyone making aftermarket skins.

  7. #7

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    Do you have to replace the whole skin? Only part of mine was bad. Found a donor and cut out the section needing replaced. Lots of work but doable.

  8. #8

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    Yeah mines all dented up.

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Unfortunately due to the thin and the basic unsupported nature of the roof on a Fox, I would not recommend patching the roof.

    Can it be done, SURE! Will it be easy? NO! I would highly recommend TIG Welding any patch panels on the roof panel as MIG welding in a patch on the roof will cause MAJOR Warpage in most cases and you will chase that all across the roof.

    Honestly even just a full replacement of the roof panel with a Used Donor can be troublesome in regards to warpage due to MIG welding.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    It could be glued in with pba and just a few spot welds in corners etc.

  11. #11

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    Pba cannot be used on anything structural, so I have been told

  12. #12
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    It could be glued in with pba and just a few spot welds in corners etc.
    The issue you have with gluing it in place is that you need an overlap of the metal to do so. That requires you either make a flange joint or bend the original roof skin down enough for the patch to overlay onto it. The issue will be smoothing out the transition. Again form experience you will chase high and low spots all across the roof in most cases and ultimately end up with a less than stellar repair and a roof covered in filler.

    Patching a roof skin at the outer edges and corners is one thing, but once you get out into the larger field area of the roof you have a huge tin can that constantly moves, bends, bows, etc. while you are trying to work it. Again ask me how I know!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  13. #13

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    What about welding in some say 1/8 x 1.5" or so flat stock from front to back maybe 2 pieces splitting the distance from side to side.Tack to front and rear structure then a few spots to roof skin. I know it wouldnt help to much as far as real support but may help from being so flexible.

  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfruauff View Post
    What about welding in some say 1/8 x 1.5" or so flat stock from front to back maybe 2 pieces splitting the distance from side to side.Tack to front and rear structure then a few spots to roof skin. I know it wouldnt help to much as far as real support but may help from being so flexible.
    You can add support to reinforce the roof. Not disagreeing that there are benefits to that. The issue once again is you have a large piece of relatively thin gauge metal that has a compound curve in it. If you look at the roof carefully it is not a perfectly flat surface it curves both to the sides of the car and slightly from front to back. The issue with welding on the roof skin itself is that the heat causes warping of the metal. Once that happens now you have to remove the warpage and work the roof back to it's original shape. Unfortunately it doesn't take much to cause the warping. Even just welding the spot welds that are located on the edges, front, and back cause cause some issues near those welds.

    The best option is to use a TIG welder rather than a MIG as you can control the heat better and the welds are softer and easier to work post welding. The issue for most is they don't own nor have access to a TIG weld or don't know how to TIG weld at all. If that is an option for you, then you may be able to make this work out.

    Personally If I were going to try and support the roof skin with additional supports, I would snag some inner support braces (center brace on a solid roof car the dome light bolts to) from a parts car. Then I would split the open space between the front and the middle brace and weld the support into the roof rail structure. I would repeat with a second brace between the middle and rear section of the roof. I should note that before welding the support in place, I would use either some structural urethane adhesive or the reinforcing Foam adhesive between the underside of the roof skin and the support just as the factory support has. This will bond the additional supports to the roof without welding and the warpage. Either weld the support to the inner roof rail as mentioned above (my preference) or use some self tapping screws to install. This will give additional support to the roof to prevent the dreaded tin can issue most hatchback solid roof Foxes suffer from. This WILL NOT prevent warpage due to welding the roof skin. It make help to minimize the warpage, but will not prevent it entirely. Hope that helps!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  15. #15

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    Yeah that does make sense.

  16. #16
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    One Caveat that I forgot to mention, If you are working on a Sunroof car there are things you can do on those that you can't do on a solid roof car. The sunroof cars do have issues with rot due to the drain lines, etc. but because of the additional structure for the sunroof panel and the drain channels, you might be able to do some patch work on a sunroof car that would be much more difficult on a solid roof car. There are still issues and obviously the added problem of matching up sunroof openings, drain channels, etc. for major repairs, but because there is less roof skin area and the skin has more support underneath it will make it easier to do some patch work and not chase any warpage from one side of the roof to the other. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Just thinkin-
    From the pics, that roof crease is pretty big.
    Can it be popped out a little from inside once headliner is removed?
    Maybe a sunroof would hide more of it? The front header area would be the tough part to fix.

    Had a 70 VW bug. Cut a large sunroof in it. Had canvas top custom made by boat shop.
    Too much wind inside with top off. Year later, reattached the cut out roof panel. Weekend project.
    Riveted metal strip ledge, inside car around the cut out perimeter, then riveted the roof panel to that.
    Filled seam in with plastic. Everyone i know now that seen that car did not know i did that.
    Then recut the reinstalled roof panel for a new crank open aftermarket sunroof. Worked much better.

    Have used an air flanging tool to fix rust areas with new metal. Came out fine. Rivets and plastic again.
    The flanging tool 'steps' the metal and helps a lot to hide rivets used to fasten new metal to the flanged metal.
    1/4" rivets are strong, like C&C used on T-Roof conversions and convertible chassis mods.
    No warp from heat. TIG good- but many do not have one. 1/4" rivets easy to do with HF air tool.

    Current Mustang here has hail dents repaired by dealer body shop back in the 80's.
    Fine for a long time, but now paint keeps cracking over the repairs.
    Not ruling out a sunroof for this car to 'fix' that. Black car, no a/c.

    1400.00 roof panel. Sure wont rust:
    https://www.racecraft.com/motor-city...f050d65b5c87dc

    Others have done. Pics of whats under the headliner:
    http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...1758890&page=2
    Last edited by gr79; 06-29-2018 at 02:02 PM.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    One Caveat that I forgot to mention, If you are working on a Sunroof car there are things you can do on those that you can't do on a solid roof car. The sunroof cars do have issues with rot due to the drain lines, etc. but because of the additional structure for the sunroof panel and the drain channels, you might be able to do some patch work on a sunroof car that would be much more difficult on a solid roof car. There are still issues and obviously the added problem of matching up sunroof openings, drain channels, etc. for major repairs, but because there is less roof skin area and the skin has more support underneath it will make it easier to do some patch work and not chase any warpage from one side of the roof to the other. Good Luck!
    Unless of course its an aftermarket sunroof like my 83 has. I would so much like that gone in my GT, but it would mean replacing the entire roof & it is so original otherwise I can't bring myself to do that, but I sure thought about it for a while & it still crosses my mind. So I just stare at it hoping it goes away on its own.. I found a factory sunroof car in a salvage yard a couple years ago, & I agree, pretty solid roof. By comparison its a whole different animal.

    I can't imagine trying to straighten out a welded panel on one of these roofs. A person would almost have to reinforce the backside with some sort of structural foam, or temporary re-inforcement I would think. But, maybe the underside reinforcement was improved in later years?

  19. #19
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Sorry I guess I should have clarified an OEM Sunroof.

    No, there were no underside reinforcement improvements in any of the later year 4 Eyes nor the Aero cars. The only change that I believe happened, but I honestly have never actually measured to verify, is I believe Ford increased the gauge thickness of the roof skin on the Aero cars over the 4 Eyes. It might have even happened for the 86 model year. I really need to try and verify that, but it never seems to be important until I have to do a roof swap.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #20
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Pba cannot be used on anything structural, so I have been told
    There are several different pba's. Including stuff for structural repairs. Would I trust it exclusively? Im not sure. Stuff is pretty incredible though.
    If only the skin is being replaced that is not structural anyway. Still not a good idea in my book. Like the ever wise Trey says, it would be best to replace entire skin. Probably less work than chasing warpage all over the place.
    Last edited by dagenham; 06-30-2018 at 11:20 AM.

  21. #21

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    Pics below are what I am dealing with. Tree limb from hurricane. My biggest worry with PBA for roof skin is if it ever got damaged again I think it would be almost impossible to separate from body framing. Just gonna grab a whole roof and pay someone to do it as I why I have used a flux and stick welder a handful of times and am decent with bodywork this isnt something I wanna have to do again. Plus I have to find a mig or tig to use.


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  22. #22
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Honestly the guy at Omaha Dent would be able to get the vast majority of that out using PDR.

    Replacing it is going to result in a near perfect repair if the guy doing it has the necessary skills. It’s by no means easy or cheap as you can see from the build thread on my 85 Saleen where Trey swapped skins for me. At least 1/2 the battle is finding an acceptable donor and getting the skin off the donor and ready to rock.

    honestly if I had it to do over now that I know about the panels above, I’d go that direction instead. Barely any additional cost and less a lot less weight up top. And it will never rust.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    honestly if I had it to do over now that I know about the panels above, I’d go that direction instead. Barely any additional cost and less a lot less weight up top. And it will never rust.
    What do you mean by this? replace it with what?

  24. #24

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    Picked this bad boy up this weekend. Local yard said I could remove and they give it to me for 80 bucks. 1 hr and a few cuts later. Just waiting to hear back from body guy about getting her on the car.

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  25. #25

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    Quote for skin swap, paint and all 1200 bucks. What you guys think. That's from the company that just painted car last year so should match pretty close.

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