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  1. #1

    Default Removing the adhesive tape strips off the back of door molding trim

    I recently acquired a set of full side trim molding pieces for my 1985 Mustang. I had to remove them off of a set of doors and fenders which were rusted out and found that the tape and it's adhesive are still incredibly stuck to the moldings. What tricks have people used to remove the old tape strips from the back of these moldings? I also would be interested in any tricks you have used when painting these moldings.

  2. #2

  3. #3

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    Use a propane torch... carefully. Just a little heat and the metal will pull right off. You need a vice or a second pair of hands. I used a scraper or razor to get a little corner loose then grab it with some pliers and heat the metal and pull

  4. #4

  5. #5

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    Yes. Pick enough that you can grab it with needle nose

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Power tools can be too aggressive but are faster.
    Have one of those electric oscillating multi tools?
    Uniquely handy for this kind of job and many others.
    Put a dull blade or scraper blade and go to it.
    Or a wire wheel on a drill? A Scotchbrite wheel?
    Doing this by hand is torture and takes a long time.
    They say keep the metal on to prevent shrinking of the molding.
    Just remove the foam.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Paint stripper wheel will quickly remove any remaining goo after you scrape as much as you can with a stiff putty knife or even a wood chisel (careful).

    And the stripper wheel will leave the metal strips clean and ready for new double-sided tape.

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-TM-Hea...43&athena=true

    JT
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  8. #8

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    I used a long handle razor blade holder and it worked great. My issue now is I can't get the moldings to flatten out, they are so curled, especially on the ends. I probably will buy reproduction pieces.

    Brant

  9. #9

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    I do intend to leave the metal to avoid the curl

  10. #10

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    Lay them out flat in the sun. Mine were curled up bad. I took off the metal and layer them out in the sun a couple days. Now they are perfectly flat

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Lay them out flat in the sun. Mine were curled up bad. I took off the metal and layer them out in the sun a couple days. Now they are perfectly flat
    Don't take the metal off the 85 / 86 moldings as they shrink.

    It's usually OK to remove the metal from the 79-84 moldings, but only if they are badly deformed.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  12. #12

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    I still got the metal on there, just haven't gotten them to flatten out. Maybe in the sun with boards on them, I'll give it a try before I buy repros.

    Brant

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Hang 'em with weights? There are past posts of doing that.
    3M tape does take curl out. No way to fix on car. Have to remove and retape.
    I used clamps or propped wood stud sections on the molding ends overnight when possible.

    Removed everything way back. Did not know of the metal thing. 79 will shorten up too.
    Also, mark where the short ones go if doing all of them at once.
    All look the same, are not.

  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Also remember if you remove all the moldings at the same time, the moldings that match up to the bumpers are thicker than the moldings between the wheels.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  15. #15

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    Name:  IMG_20180624_170313794[1].jpg
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Size:  79.1 KBName:  IMG_20180624_151124177[1].jpg
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Size:  123.6 KB Unexpected discovery. When I was working on my side moldings I discovered the GT piece that had flaked away was an aftermarket decal and underneath was the original still in great shape, just cleaned them up with acetone and now are ready for paint. Here are some more pics of the rest of the moldings after I cleaned them. I included one piece of the hard molding that I had already painted to show the difference.Name:  IMG_20180624_151129318[1].jpg
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Size:  116.1 KB Some are still a bit curled, especially on ends, something else to work on.Name:  IMG_20180624_170254550[1].jpg
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    Last edited by RazorbackGT; 06-24-2018 at 05:42 PM.

  16. #16

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    I used a 4 inch wide heavy duty putty knife with a large hammer to take the trim off the rusty donor doors and fenders. This took them off straight and true without distortion. I then took a heavy duty cup wire wheel on a variable speed polisher. It took the tape off in glue gobs but left the clean metal. This worked well and allowed me to put new 3M trim double sided tape on for a clean install. I have to paint the front bumper and headlight area before I paste 'after' pictures but want to thank all those who provided suggestions.

  17. #17

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    Can't wait to see the pics. I got my headlight buckets painted as well as the bumper charcoal trim, just waiting to get the rest of them white. Hopefully will be spraying white this weekend.

    Brant

  18. #18
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    I use a rubber wheel for removing decals and double sided tape.
    Works like magic , and does no harm .
    Get them at any autobody supply store .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

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