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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Default Need help!!! Starter will not disengage

    So this started last week. First time it happened was with with the wife. Lucky she was home and I was home because she didn’t know what to do. I ordered a new motorcraft starter solenoid the day after it happened to have just in case. We drove the car off and on after that with no issues. On Tuesday I drove it to work and it stuck three times on me. That night I swapped the solenoid with the new motorcraft one and it stuck on the first crank with the key. Last night I played with it. I had to tap the solenoid to unstick it. Then I disconnected the wire that runs from the second post to the starter. I then got my remote starter and just cycled the solenoid about 40 times with the ignition off. Everything was fine. The solenoid did not stick. Then I reconnected the starter wire and again using the remote starter with the ignition off I bumped and cranked the starter over with no issues. I did long bursts and short bursts with no sticking. Using the key I bumped the starter over a couple times but this time there was no response from the key for a couple of the bumps. That was the first time that has happened. I know I had the key turned all the way and the clutch was all the way to the floor but the engine did not crank. I let the car start with the next crank and the starter stuck. Tonight I replaced the switch on the column just because of the intermittent cranks but it did not fix the problem. I have read a bunch of threads on different sites but there is no clear answer to what the issue is. I know my starter is good. The battery is a month old. Solenoid is new. Switch is new. Wiring looks ok other than a slightly melted positive battery cable. No other issues with the car. It runs good after it is started. I would think if something was wrong with the starting system it would stick also when I was bumping it with the ignition off in the remote starter. This only happens when the ignition is on using the key.

    Any help would be appreciated as I would like to take it to a show this weekend.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    For grins I put the old solenoid back in. I cranked it over with the key on and coil unplugged using the remote starter. Turned it over about 20 times. Did not stick. I Hooked up the coil and started it over and over about another 20 times and then it stuck. I then cranked it with the remote starter and the ignition off and about the third crank it stuck. I’m thinking the solenoids are crap. Will return the new one as it is worse than the old one. Tomorrow I will dig thru my stuff and see if I can find some more used ones to play with.

    Still any input would be appreciated.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  3. #3

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    Is it 100% stock setup? If so, I agree that it sounds like a bad solenoid.

    However, if you have the newer mini-starter in there and a re-wire kit, then people often do the wiring the quick incorrect way. And, that can cause the starter to stay engaged.
    FRPP had a wiring kit and correct instructions.

  4. #4

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    Every new solenoid I've bought (motorcraft included) was a pile of crap. The cheapies at AutoZone sometimes only last a few cycles. As a delivery driver, I start my fox in the neighborhood of 50 times a day, every day.

    I pick up oem solinoids when I hit the junkyard for a few bucks and have a spare just in case.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
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  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stangPlus2Birds View Post
    Is it 100% stock setup? If so, I agree that it sounds like a bad solenoid.

    However, if you have the newer mini-starter in there and a re-wire kit, then people often do the wiring the quick incorrect way. And, that can cause the starter to stay engaged.
    FRPP had a wiring kit and correct instructions.
    Yes stock setup. No mini-starter.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Every new solenoid I've bought (motorcraft included) was a pile of crap. The cheapies at AutoZone sometimes only last a few cycles. As a delivery driver, I start my fox in the neighborhood of 50 times a day, every day.

    I pick up oem solinoids when I hit the junkyard for a few bucks and have a spare just in case.
    The one I had is an OEM one. Came from a 87 GT I parted. I’m going to see if I have some more. I will most likely do the same and grab some spares next time I go to the junkyard. .
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Default

    Just went through this last week.. Bad / new solenoid
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  8. #8
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    Over torquing the battery cable studs causes the studs to rotate. What you don’t see it a square headed bolt on the inside. When it gets misaligned (rotated) they cause the contacts to weld together. Once you understand this, solenoids are less likely to fail.
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  9. #9
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Huh??

  10. #10

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    And we’re sure it’s not the Bendix drive hanging up and being driven by the engine? Just throwing it out there.

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    Over torquing the battery cable studs causes the studs to rotate. What you don’t see it a square headed bolt on the inside. When it gets misaligned (rotated) they cause the contacts to weld together. Once you understand this, solenoids are less likely to fail.
    Pretty sure I did not do that with this new one as I have cracked them before by over torquing them. I tend to just snug them.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JacksAO View Post
    And we’re sure it’s not the Bendix drive hanging up and being driven by the engine? Just throwing it out there.
    . Nope not the bendix. 100% sure the solenoid is sticking.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  13. #13

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    I had the same problem on my father's car one day. The starter wouldn't disengage and we didn't have any tools around to disconnect the battery terminal and the car ended up catching on fire. It was scary. That's a lot of current flowing those those wires that is only meant to go through for a brief period of time.

  14. #14

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    Ford starter solenoids were rarely ever an issue when they were still the vertical-acting design:



    ... then along came somebody's bright idea to make them a horizontal-acting solenoid (like old GM's onboard-of-starter and other new "mini" starter designs, the horizontal-acting solenoid aspect, and at the starter, MUCH more likely to also be affected by heat...) which are by-design automatically more prone to getting cockeyed in there and hanging up, sticking:



    ... a step backwards mistake by Ford IMHO (or maybe a service-increasing, part-selling clever step... either way, not cool)... and when this particular and peculiar problem ( starter not disengaging, and without tools to the point of car fire... yay ) began and has been an increasingly frequent-er problem...

    Next time the Mustang does this, I'll find or order a solenoid from something from the '60's or '70's... problem permanently solved.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    So far the premium Autozone solenoid has been working just fine. I returned the motorcraft one and got a refund. I am going to leave it alone since the one I have is working.

    I was wondering why Ford changed the design. The one in my 67 is from 67 and has never given me any problems to date.
    Last edited by Tigger; 07-05-2018 at 06:19 PM.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  16. #16
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    I think that if the solenoid were stuck, there would be 12 v on the output lead of the solenoid. If no voltage on that lead the problem would be in the starter. If you've got 12 v on the solenoid coil, then problem would be back toward the ignition switch or a wiring defect.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigger View Post
    I was wondering why Ford changed the design. The one in my 67 is from 67 and has never given me any problems to date.
    ... because they are a public-traded corporation, and brain-dead. Your experience with your '67 is another testament to the fact that there was absolutely nothing wrong with the original (bulletproof) design... though, that doesn't make anybody any additional money, does it?...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkd0r View Post
    I think that if the solenoid were stuck, there would be 12 v on the output lead of the solenoid. If no voltage on that lead the problem would be in the starter. If you've got 12 v on the solenoid coil, then problem would be back toward the ignition switch or a wiring defect.

    Thanks, the problem was with the solenoid as everyone said. We have driven it a bunch since I changed it out again and have had no starter issues to date.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  19. #19

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    I've bought more then one ford cheap with a "new flywheel and starter". Every single one had a parts store starter solenoid in it an eventually got stuck cranking.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  20. #20

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    If it comes back, try replacing the ignition switch. I had the same issue and my ign switch was broke and wouldn't "reset" back to off correctly when the key was turned to off.

  21. #21
    FEP Member James2488's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Ford starter solenoids were rarely ever an issue when they were still the vertical-acting design:



    ... then along came somebody's bright idea to make them a horizontal-acting solenoid (like old GM's onboard-of-starter and other new "mini" starter designs, the horizontal-acting solenoid aspect, and at the starter, MUCH more likely to also be affected by heat...) which are by-design automatically more prone to getting cockeyed in there and hanging up, sticking:



    ... a step backwards mistake by Ford IMHO (or maybe a service-increasing, part-selling clever step... either way, not cool)... and when this particular and peculiar problem ( starter not disengaging, and without tools to the point of car fire... yay ) began and has been an increasingly frequent-er problem...

    Next time the Mustang does this, I'll find or order a solenoid from something from the '60's or '70's... problem permanently solved.
    You can still get the vertical design easily at a parts store. Like for instance the S63 @ O'Reilly's.
    2015 F350 6.7 CCLB Platinum
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  22. #22
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    I see a lot of complaints on the old vertical design as well. The big blockcars will often weld the contacts. That’s why there are guys refurbishing the old original solenoids. The new Motorcraft seems to be better than the cheap ones but still often a problem. I have seen and been burned by knock offs in a Motorcraft box.

    There are repros out as well.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

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