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  1. #1

    Default Audio Attention needed in my 86'

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    I am Planning a trip driving my 86' notch from Arkansas to Woodward Avenue(917 miles) in Michigan for Roadkill Nights August 11th. One of the repairs/maint I would like to do before the trip is get the tunes in order. Attached is a pic of the factory push button premium sound stereo that is unmolested. The front and rear speakers are shot. The amp installed in the center of the dash does not work. Things I would like and will not do are.

    1. Would like BT capabilities
    2. Would be ok with aux input.
    3. Not against aftermarket unit but I will not hack up dash and it appears to me hacking is a must with the way factory stereo fits.
    4. Not needing competition sounding ****.....not my thing some folks dig it that is what makes the world go around.
    5. Only interested in speakers that fit in factory front dash and rear dash locations.
    6. Always have been partial to JBL stuff but would entertain what others have had work good with stock stereo.

    Will the stock stereo be able to power aftermarket speakers without the factory amp? Do I need to replace factory amp? Any advice from past installs or part#'s would be great help. I want to stick to the KISS method for this part of the project but want it to last a while also. Would just like to listen to Willie, Waylon and the Boys on my trip.
    Last edited by jazdill; 06-17-2018 at 04:56 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member smitty54's Avatar
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    I prefer Rockford Fosgate as they give you several options with speakers. Check out this radio for BT capabilities,
    https://www.classiccarstereos.com/19...ng-radios.html
    "Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac."
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  3. #3

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    just a personal opinion; I hate Custom Auto Sound radios. Overpriced, sound like crap (my opinion only), tuners are weak. Look into a retrofit of Aux and BT into your current head unit as an option. The factory head unit will power aftermarket speakers with an 8ohm impedance, under 100W capacity. I seem to recall the factory head units were around 14W per channel (L/R), or 7W per channel (LF/RF/LR/RR). Factory amp I think peaked at 35W per channel (L/R).

    possible refitter; http://www.ricksradioconversions.com/
    Jim DeAngelis
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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default tunes for the ride

    Nice trip planned. Plenty of car related activities that whole week Sat 8/11 thru Sun 8/19 if staying.
    Have posted info about this in past years. Cruising nightly all week, main cruise w/Mustang Alley, FWHQ show.
    Live 1/2 hour from all that. Many come from out state for the events.

    One way to do the radio:
    Amp- Go 4 ch. 50w rms x 4 is plenty without sucking lots of 12v power. Amp F-R gain can be adjusted.
    Speakers- JBL/Harmon has speakers at vg prices direct from them. Their 3.5" fit fine.
    AUX- 5.00 cassette slot adapter with aux input wire.
    BT- Radio FM adapter? Have Garmin GPS that does the BT phone thing.

    Rewiring everything is the big part of job.

    Looking at the 85 EVTM for premium sound elec radio:
    There are wiring similarities with non amp cassette radio.
    Rear speakers are wired direct from radio in both versions.
    Premium sound radio directly amps rear only?
    Premium sound amp in dash amps only the front speakers?
    If so, the front speaker + wires have same color code before and after amp.
    The two front grounds are common (same wire) before and after amp.
    Thinking can unplug these from amp and connect to radio like a non-ps radio.
    Goal is to preserve F-R fade and L-R balance control.
    New wires from radio pigtails to amp to speakers. Leave old intact.

    Trick is getting back there to mod them. Maybe disconnect from radio and pull harness clear?
    A salvage pigtail or kit would help. Anything to extend wires into open area then replug into radio,
    Radios removed and installed from the front sure help a lot here.
    Last edited by gr79; 06-17-2018 at 08:09 PM.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smitty54 View Post
    I prefer Rockford Fosgate as they give you several options with speakers. Check out this radio for BT capabilities,
    https://www.classiccarstereos.com/19...ng-radios.html
    I would not want the 2 post style stereo

    Quote Originally Posted by FB71 View Post
    just a personal opinion; I hate Custom Auto Sound radios. Overpriced, sound like crap (my opinion only), tuners are weak. Look into a retrofit of Aux and BT into your current head unit as an option. The factory head unit will power aftermarket speakers with an 8ohm impedance, under 100W capacity. I seem to recall the factory head units were around 14W per channel (L/R), or 7W per channel (LF/RF/LR/RR). Factory amp I think peaked at 35W per channel (L/R).

    possible refitter; http://www.ricksradioconversions.com/
    Holy **** Batman those prices are very high!!

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Nice trip planned. Plenty of car related activities that whole week Sat 8/11 thru Sun 8/19 if staying.
    Have posted info about this in past years. Cruising nightly all week, main cruise w/Mustang Alley, FWHQ show.
    Live 1/2 hour from all that. Many come from out state for the events.

    One way to do the radio:
    Amp- Go 4 ch. 50w rms x 4 is plenty without sucking lots of 12v power. Amp F-R gain can be adjusted.
    Speakers- JBL/Harmon has speakers at vg prices direct from them. Their 3.5" fit fine.
    AUX- 5.00 cassette slot adapter with aux input wire.
    BT- Radio FM adapter? Have Garmin GPS that does the BT phone thing.

    Rewiring everything is the big part of job.

    Looking at the 85 EVTM for premium sound elec radio:
    There are wiring similarities with non amp cassette radio.
    Rear speakers are wired direct from radio in both versions.
    Premium sound radio directly amps rear only?
    Premium sound amp in dash amps only the front speakers?
    If so, the front speaker + wires have same color code before and after amp.
    The two front grounds are common (same wire) before and after amp.
    Thinking can unplug these from amp and connect to radio like a non-ps radio.
    Goal is to preserve F-R fade and L-R balance control.
    New wires from radio pigtails to amp to speakers. Leave old intact.

    Trick is getting back there to mod them. Maybe disconnect from radio and pull harness clear?
    A salvage pigtail or kit would help. Anything to extend wires into open area then replug into radio,
    Radios removed and installed from the front sure help a lot here.
    I think but not 100% that the dash amp powers the rears? Will the stock stereo power 2 front and 2 rear without the amp? I have consider using a BT adapter that goes into the tape deck.

  7. #7
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    Skip the factory amp if there is one. I thought they did away with them in 86. Most indash units put out way more power than any factory amped unit of the day.. I would run new wires to the rear. I believe 5he standard DIN chassis sleeve will drop right in. You might want to source a filler plate Incase the factory hole and the DIN do not cover everything. Do your research on the wiring colors in advance. The EVTM is excellent. Get the adapter harness and you can premier much of it in advance. The DIN should mount from the front.

    I put a Kenwood unit in my 85 with BT. All is great except the microphone and the vert. Top don’t mix well.
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    Skip the factory amp if there is one. I thought they did away with them in 86. Most indash units put out way more power than any factory amped unit of the day.. I would run new wires to the rear. I believe 5he standard DIN chassis sleeve will drop right in. You might want to source a filler plate Incase the factory hole and the DIN do not cover everything. Do your research on the wiring colors in advance. The EVTM is excellent. Get the adapter harness and you can premier much of it in advance. The DIN should mount from the front.

    I put a Kenwood unit in my 85 with BT. All is great except the microphone and the vert. Top don’t mix well.

    Any pics of your install?

  9. #9

    Default

    https://www.sony.ca/en/electronics/i...rs/mex-xb100bt

    I did this one. 100w x 4. Full blue tooth, iphone integration. Can adjust led for red to match car.

    I'm running 6x9 JBL, 3.5" in front and bazzoka sub. I made sure to run all new speaker wiring.

    Sounds very clean, can control all menus on headunit through iphone. Bluetooth is seemless.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steam_mill View Post
    https://www.sony.ca/en/electronics/i...rs/mex-xb100bt

    I did this one. 100w x 4. Full blue tooth, iphone integration. Can adjust led for red to match car.

    I'm running 6x9 JBL, 3.5" in front and bazzoka sub. I made sure to run all new speaker wiring.

    Sounds very clean, can control all menus on headunit through iphone. Bluetooth is seemless.
    Do u have any pics of the install? I do not want mine to look like a flux campacitor installed in a model T.

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jazdill View Post
    Do u have any pics of the install? I do not want mine to look like a flux campacitor installed in a model T.

  12. #12

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    I only have my rear speakers connected as of now due the front ones were jacked up. Will my front speakers work when I replace them since I removed the factory amp in dash?

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Currently installed an ele non- premium Ford radio. 1992 era. Plentiful. Works great amped up.
    Simple to wire up once all wire codes are known. Different versions, interchangeable.
    Aftermarket newer radios, especially chrome, look out of place in old cars to me.

    Factory radios are simple to use. Basic buttons and menus for adjustments. Less distraction.

    From the way i have read and seen, the 80's ele version radios amp the rear only.
    Radio has built in 2 ch amp for rears. Center dash amp for fronts only (ele radios non-shaft DIN).
    They say shaft radios were 4 ch.

    Non prem ele radio has 8 separate +/- wires for all channels exiting the radio.
    PremSnd has only 7. Diff is 1 wire (to center amp) for both ft spkr grounds.
    Looks to have provision for normal 2.

    Could temp. connect the fronts direct to the rears and hear what happens.
    Run new wires to ft speakers from rear speaker connections.
    Tap into rear speaker wires somewhere to power the front speakers.

    Connecting F+ to R+ together may drop ohms too low, chance of overheating amp.
    R+ to F- should be ok. Reverse. Series wiring vs parallel.
    Problem with this is f-r will be out of phase. Weak bass, stereo separation, no fade adj.

    A new small 4 ch amp can correct this.
    Better result. Separate wires for all, as before.

    Bought a JBL 4 ch amp and got everything adjusted real close using the amps controls.
    Comfortable clear loud in car at 12 to 1 o'clock vol, straight up bass/treble. Can feel bass a little.
    No thump, vibration, rattles.
    Variable crossover adjusts to limit ft bass, variable gain adjust for f-r sound level match.
    Recertified, direct from JBL site. Discontinued. Was great deal 89.00. Analog. Fairly large size.
    https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO-504-H.../dp/B007GYU2P6
    Almost the same:
    https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GX-A604-4.../dp/B00I5WEB8C
    Of course many other good ones are out there. Smaller digital too.
    All will need new power and ground wiring.

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    You can actually put a twin post radio in that factory opening....it is how Saleen installed the Kenwoods in the 85-86 Saleens back in the day. It does not require any hacking of the dash....you just have to use a couple aftermarket radio brackets to basically build a "sandwich" between the outer edges of the opening, and use a bracket in the back to hold it up. You also need to fabricate a factory Radio Delete plate with a cutout in the middle and holes for the two posts to act as a faceplate to hide the opening. Works great.

    Check out Post #4 of this thread: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...adio-swap-82GT That is exactly how I installed the twin post Kenwood during the restoration of 1985 Saleen #127
    Last edited by sowaxeman; 06-18-2018 at 02:58 PM.
    Jason Smith
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  15. #15

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    I have an older Pioneer unit. That's because I could get a 6-disk CD Changer that connected to the head unit. The 6-disk CD unit fits nicely under the passenger seat.

    I checked, I don't have any pictures of my radio. :-P
    As I recall, the biggest hassle is customizing (drilling holes, and any cutting) of the side brackets.
    I just bypassed the built-in factory amp. The stock speakers are just regular speakers. I also replaced those back in the 90s.

    Now, I'd suggest Kenwood.

    Go to Crutchfield , put in your car details, then search for radios.

    Here are two that I found quickly:

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KDC...-KDC-X998.html
    Kenwood Excelon KDC-X998
    Item # 113KDCX998 | MFR # KDC-X998
    203 Reviews | 32 questions - 129 answers
    $259.99


    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-avCG6U...-X8800BHS.html
    Pioneer DEH-X8800BHS
    Item # 130X8800BS | MFR # DEH-X8800BHS
    105 Reviews | 10 questions - 37 answers
    $179.99

  16. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Currently installed an ele non- premium Ford radio. 1992 era. Plentiful. Works great amped up.
    Simple to wire up once all wire codes are known. Different versions, interchangeable.
    Aftermarket newer radios, especially chrome, look out of place in old cars to me.

    Factory radios are simple to use. Basic buttons and menus for adjustments. Less distraction.

    From the way i have read and seen, the 80's ele version radios amp the rear only.
    Radio has built in 2 ch amp for rears. Center dash amp for fronts only (ele radios non-shaft DIN).
    They say shaft radios were 4 ch.

    Non prem ele radio has 8 separate +/- wires for all channels exiting the radio.
    PremSnd has only 7. Diff is 1 wire (to center amp) for both ft spkr grounds.
    Looks to have provision for normal 2.

    Could temp. connect the fronts direct to the rears and hear what happens.
    Run new wires to ft speakers from rear speaker connections.
    Tap into rear speaker wires somewhere to power the front speakers.

    Connecting F+ to R+ together may drop ohms too low, chance of overheating amp.
    R+ to F- should be ok. Reverse. Series wiring vs parallel.
    Problem with this is f-r will be out of phase. Weak bass, stereo separation, no fade adj.

    A new small 4 ch amp can correct this.
    Better result. Separate wires for all, as before.

    Bought a JBL 4 ch amp and got everything adjusted real close using the amps controls.
    Comfortable clear loud in car at 12 to 1 o'clock vol, straight up bass/treble. Can feel bass a little.
    No thump, vibration, rattles.
    Variable crossover adjusts to limit ft bass, variable gain adjust for f-r sound level match.
    Recertified, direct from JBL site. Discontinued. Was great deal 89.00. Analog. Fairly large size.
    https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO-504-H.../dp/B007GYU2P6
    Almost the same:
    https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GX-A604-4.../dp/B00I5WEB8C
    Of course many other good ones are out there. Smaller digital too.
    All will need new power and ground wiring.
    I believe you are describing the direction it appears i am going. Looks like I will be using the factory ford premium stereo with a small 4 channel amp and speakers i have yet to decide on. Only two negatives this route is amp will not go in factory location and I will not be able to adjust fade on the fly with fade knob on the stereo. Are there any available wiring schematics online that will help with this style install?

  17. #17

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    What is a decent physically smaller amp that could be tucked up under dash? Not looking for "Best" just good value and quality with small dimensions being key. Not against running new speaker wire to all locations would love if I did not have too though.

  18. #18
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    The fade on my radio works as normal.
    Actually stays straight up or one click to rear.
    The 4 channel amp allows this.

    Seen mini amps that may fit up in dash.
    Tough to mount and wire anything under dash.
    Under seat is a common loc with extra wire length to allow pulling it clear to work on.
    Could install amp in trunk where many factory and others are.
    JBL says can use plywood base to mount amps.

    New speaker wires are pretty easy to route and tuck behind panels, under carpet, and in dash.
    Only major removal would be dash pad for ft speaker replacement and connecting.
    Pass side of car is easiest access. Tuck wires under carpet along sill.

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazdill View Post
    What is a decent physically smaller amp that could be tucked up under dash? Not looking for "Best" just good value and quality with small dimensions being key. Not against running new speaker wire to all locations would love if I did not have too though.
    Based on this, you should search ebay for compact Blutooth amp boards. They typically come from China but there are now US sellers carrying them. They are beyond small enough to fit in the dash location, and they are available as 2 channel with more than enough power to drive the 3.5" fronts and 5x7's for the rear.

    Get one that has a wide enough input power range to accept 12vdc (most do). You can either wire the channel outputs to the factory wires (you'd have to splice) or run new wires. The dash speaker wires would be simple, and the rears would too with some minor tucking along the sill plates and behind the rear interior panels. Run one of the channels in series to the two rears, and the other in series to the two fronts so you can dial in the fade to your liking. Or wire them in parallel if it can handle down to a 4 ohm load?

    The beauty is you can listen to your playlists, Pandora or whatever from your phone and just leave the factory unit in the dash for looks if you want. I have a buddy that built his own custom sound system in his Polaris UTV like this....and it ROCKS!

    Something similar to this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TSA7498-2-C...UAAOSwO0Ra-t8c
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,800 Mile Original Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2019 Best Original 87-93)
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by sowaxeman View Post
    Based on this, you should search ebay for compact Blutooth amp boards. They typically come from China but there are now US sellers carrying them. They are beyond small enough to fit in the dash location, and they are available as 2 channel with more than enough power to drive the 3.5" fronts and 5x7's for the rear.

    Get one that has a wide enough input power range to accept 12vdc (most do). You can either wire the channel outputs to the factory wires (you'd have to splice) or run new wires. The dash speaker wires would be simple, and the rears would too with some minor tucking along the sill plates and behind the rear interior panels. Run one of the channels in series to the two rears, and the other in series to the two fronts so you can dial in the fade to your liking. Or wire them in parallel if it can handle down to a 4 ohm load?

    The beauty is you can listen to your playlists, Pandora or whatever from your phone and just leave the factory unit in the dash for looks if you want. I have a buddy that built his own custom sound system in his Polaris UTV like this....and it ROCKS!

    Something similar to this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TSA7498-2-C...UAAOSwO0Ra-t8c
    This route VERY much interest me!!! I was just learning about these devices earlier today. One thing I would be concerned with is pairing trbl. Would be grateful if someone here would spec me out some speakers that would fit in my stock locations and work with one of these fine china products.

  21. #21

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    This appears to be what I need. Please let me know any negatives I could encounter going this route. I Figure could be mounted under back dash between speakers in the trunk

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR...L-GTR-104.html

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I downloaded the owners/install manual to check it out. Shows all the GTR Stadium series.
    Wow now that's one classy 8# amp. Like top of the line.
    Anything with a party mode cant be all bad.
    Lots of adjustments to dial in the system. Crossovers, gains.
    Cool remote control panel.
    Great price. Listed on Harmon/JBL site for 499. Grab it quick.
    Class D too.
    Bet 1/4 gain will be enough!
    Prob need long battery cable size wire for the power feed.
    Should be set for years with that baby.

    I use a maxifuse with holder and weather cover just off the battery connection, then routed power wire inside.
    Connected the wire to a std relay, behind glove box, so power is switched off/on with ignition key.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    I use a maxifuse with holder and weather cover just off the battery connection, then routed power wire inside.
    Connected the wire to a std relay, behind glove box, so power is switched off/on with ignition key.
    you installed this amp in what location?

  24. #24

  25. #25
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Let your smartphone paired with this board, play a music.

    Hard to say if the TSA project amp has proper power line filters, temp, vibration resistance.
    No cover. Gain adjustments to match radio and crossovers to tweak speaker eq?
    Specs say working voltage 14-39v. Aint gonna get that with engine off.
    No way that amp is putting out more power per channel than my JBL or my house stereo.
    Too small of a power input. 100w x4? RMS? no way. Prob 15 x4 actual.
    Requires 6 ohm minimum load? Heat sinks?

    Lots of people race with battery in trunk running cables thru car to starter.
    Crutchfield has install article and install kits.
    Under pass seat is one spot if amp fits. Was my alt loc (have no carpeting there).
    Rarely have passengers in car. Otherwise, it would not be on kick panel loc.
    Read with amp in trunk run power wire along floor, speaker wires along roof trim.

    Amp shown in pic is class a/b. They say class D is more efficient power wise. Most marine app amps are.
    Am using 10g power and ground wire. 30a maxifuse. No power issues or rf noise. Can get hot to touch.
    Have it set at 1/3 gain. The speakers start to clip with more. Bass notes suck up most of the power.
    There is a green led amp power light that turns red when under voltage (low battery). Shuts down if too hot.
    Sitting in drive, engine off, can play radio pretty loud for hour or so. Will work down to 10v.

    Name:  amp JBL kickpanel.jpg
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    Last edited by gr79; 06-21-2018 at 02:23 AM.

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