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  1. #26
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Hard to say if the TSA project amp has proper power line filters, temp, vibration resistance.
    No cover. Gain adjustments to match radio and crossovers to tweak speaker eq?
    Specs say working voltage 14-39v. Aint gonna get that with engine off.
    No way that amp is putting out more power per channel than my JBL or my house stereo.
    Too small of a power input. 100w x4? RMS? no way. Prob 15 x4 actual.
    Requires 6 ohm minimum load? Heat sinks?
    It is rated at 100W x 2, not 4....and being Class D its certainly believable. Could it be a bit over-rated, sure...and yeah your JBL is going to be a better product. But for what the OP is going for, it could certainly fit the bill. My buddy uses one in his Polaris UTV, so I see no concerns about vibration. Also no concerns about being able to crossover....its driving full range, which again for what the OP is going for (good sound, not serious Hi-Fi quality) it could work.

    But that other amp he found on Crutchfield look really good and flexible as well.
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,800 Mile Original Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2019 Best Original 87-93)
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    I bought one of the TSA amps BTW. I'll hook it up to my speaker box in the garage and report back how it sounds, and compares to my Kenwood home stereo (100Wx2) that is driving it now. If it works well, I plan to install it in an old console stereo/record player that I have laying around....with updated speakers.
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,800 Mile Original Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2019 Best Original 87-93)
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey

  3. #28

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    thx for advice gr79. I am like you in my thoughts of the little cheap china board. So far I feel the best option is the JBL GTR-104
    I need to figure out what speakers to use for stock locations
    If the factory charging system is adequate.

    Thoughts are to mount under rear dash between speakers. That will mean a short run to the rear speakers. I will run new wires from there to the front speakers. I will also have to run a power cable under hood to battery. Should be able to come off of starter solenoid for ignition power source. Been a while since I installed automobile amp but i managed when I was a punk teenager so I can only imagine it was more difficult then than now lol

  4. #29

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    Crutchfield stated they did not have any speakers they would recommend with the GTR-104 amp that was a exact bolt in for the front dash.
    They recommended Infinity REF3032CFX https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R30...F-3032cfx.html and
    JBL
    Club 3020 https://www.crutchfield.com/S-FHR2aU...020.html?tp=96
    They stated the Infinity was 1/10th and the JBL was 2/10th off from an exact fit. What exactly would need to be trimmed to make these work?
    They also recommend Polk
    DB572 for the rear https://www.crutchfield.com/S-KWtUpd...572.html?tp=93

    The JBL GTR-104 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR...R_104&skipvs=T has all the features I feel like I need. I wish I could find comparable features in a smaller amp. I believe if I could find smaller amp that would open the door for more speaker options that would be a direct bolt-in. Gain would have to be turned down all the way I am afraid with these speakers above.

  5. #30
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Sorry everyone about long posts and repeating myself. May have missed something or is not clear. Hey-am 66....
    Absolutely no intention to brag, just honest, to help find something or help avoid mistakes with our cars.
    Wrong or right advice, i report, you decide. Always learning. Homework and experience can help reach goals.
    Always seeking a real no junk bargain, other times are justified to spend more for correct results.

    This is about getting factory radio to work to potential. Be all it can be with a little work+ adding good parts.
    Turn a weak factory radio into a good system like many others have done using all aftermarket.
    What i have now seems to be bulletproof. No more, wishing, maybe's. A welcome driving 'companion'.
    Finally search is over for 'consistent correct sound reproduction' as i know it. Close to house accuracy.
    System does carry some when loud. Seen a girl in one parking lot 'session' start to dance with thumbs up.

    The TSA 8498 pdf schematic shows 4 speaker outputs, 2 channel (L+R) input. Impressive for size.
    Curious as to how it works in garage app. Not savvy to advise for car use.
    It did state to be careful with input level as not to overload amp.

    I use radio speaker outputs (high level) for amp input. JBL amp has switch and gain adj for just that.
    I agree the JBL amp, although costs a lot more, would work. It can be adjusted to work with any speaker.
    Went with JBL components, so they match. Have JBL car 12" retrofitted into the house system.

    Can say, enjoy driving the car for what it is and to play radio. Been doing my car audio since the 70's.
    We all s...canned the factory radios and speakers for 8 track/cassette aftermarket.systems.
    Things got way better in the late 80's with factory ele radios, but no speaker can survive that long. Foam goes away.
    Have had JVC, Sony, Sanyo. All, ok but feel finally found the sweet setup for me and am picky.
    Am about DIY when possible. Am final ok. Do not have 100's of dollars to guess with.
    Moved the Sony 222 amp the was in the car to my Ranger. Works fine. Decent amp but is only 2 ch.

    All the speaker am using are rated 25-50w. Have amp gain turned down to 1/3 so as not to blow them up.
    Using speaker output wires from factory radio is easy and usually the only option to connect to amps.

    Went with new JBL GX302 up front. 3.5" cannot handle full amp power. Low bass is filtered out by amp.
    They keep up easily with larger rear speakers even at 1/3 gain.
    The only trimming i did was remove the flaking dash foam at the grill openings.
    Glued speaker cloth under the vinyl perf to reinforce. Speaker fit perfectly and do not hit anything.
    GX302 look to be same as Club 3020, same price, but handle 75w peak.
    https://www.harmanaudio.com/car-speakers/

    Rears are 5x7 from certain 90's Ford Explorer front doors with Mach, JBL, or Audiophile stereo sys option.
    They say Ford or JBL on them. Did not want to spend big bucks for non comp system.
    Good quality materials must have been used, like butyl cone edges, to have lasted this long.
    Are 2 way with sealed backs 3 ohm, 25w. Good for no trunk hatch cars. Have 6 of them in back.
    They do not overload the amp and put out good bass. Can feel some bass in seat backs. Just enough.

    Test music over the radio (to help visualize where i am coming from music wise):
    I like guitar feedback and live to be reproduced like its live, clear drums, vocals, crowd. Quality, not sound pressure.
    Do not like to have to adjust anything to make song sound better, except volume.
    Do not really listen to country, rap, jazz, hop hip. Do listen to AM news/traffic/weather, Coast to Coast.
    Listen critically to hear if system reproduces all parts of songs like i know they can sound. It does.
    Certain riffs, bass, vocal tones, anything unique to a song heard many times on many systems.
    If one gets tired of listening to good songs when in the mood, something is not right.
    Like trying to mentally reproduce notes or instruments that do not come out right on the system.

    Sometime sit for quite a while parked, just to hear good music. The way it should be. Makes one happy.
    Madonna Like a Prayer= can hear all the low organ notes, although weaker than home system.
    STP= always enjoy catching one of their 'toons. Can hear guitar work clearly.
    Always turn "Hot Stuff", Donna Summers, up loud. Heavy metal not of my gen but fine.
    Any live tracks= nice open separation.
    Old stuff depends on how well it was recorded or remastered. Motown ok. I live there.
    Led Zep Whole Lotta Love, others= side to side riffs sounds cool.
    80's music sounds greater. Dance. etc. Many many, all genres. Many cant remember now.

    Speaker phasing is very important. Wired speakers for best quality image and clear bass.

    Have spare JBL 6x9's, but needed to seal back for bass. Like, say, using boxes. Take up more room.
    Use whatever available from multi sources. Off the shelf, etc. Minimize throwing money away.
    Last edited by gr79; 06-21-2018 at 02:35 PM.

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Went with new JBL GX302 up front. 3.5" cannot handle full amp power. Low bass is filtered out by amp.
    They keep up easily with larger rear speakers even at 1/3 gain.
    The only trimming i did was remove the flaking dash foam at the grill openings.
    Glued speaker cloth under the vinyl perf to reinforce. Speaker fit perfectly and do not hit anything.
    So what I believe I am understanding is the fitment issue is the tweeter sits higher causing it to hit the dash pad. Which should be plenty thick enough to shave off the 2/10th" ?

  7. #32
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    When i bought the 302's, did not feel they would hit the grill bottom. They do not.
    The grill foam was removed just to be sure and really served no function any more, being dried out and crumbling.
    Did not want flakes to fall into the speaker.
    Decided to add special cloth to keep debris from falling thru the dash holes into the speaker plus reinforce.
    The protective cloth was peeled off a car speaker found in the salvage yard.
    Applied 3M 03601 adhesive with toothpick to the vinyl very sparingly down the hole rows, then stuck the cloth.
    Stiffened the areas nicely.Name:  speaker hole mod dash (4).jpg
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    Passenger side perfectName:  speaker hole mod dash (7).jpg
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    The drivers side patch piece is very brittle. Is not really noticeable after inserting.
    Holes are impossible to line up in row without causing more damage.
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    Did the middle too. A speaker can be added and have done that prior for testing. Not really needed now.
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    Last edited by gr79; 06-22-2018 at 01:16 PM.

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Not much taller than stock height
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    Old, still work fine, wizzer center paper cone came off, caused speaker to buzz.
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    DS dash hole has a little tilt built in
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    Last edited by gr79; 06-22-2018 at 01:09 PM.

  9. #34
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Gosh, jazdill
    Really no intent to hijack your thread. Just help to form plans, shop, and give you and others ideas.
    Its just that all this is similar to what you are thinking to do. Factory radio, bigger amp. Problem solving?
    Hopefully help you get something special done for your planned trip up here to Metro Detroit.

    This setup works, using 90's era Ford factory salvaged parts. Radio and rear speakers.
    JBL amp is factory recertified by Harmon/JBl. Front speakers are new.
    Total cost was under 250.00.
    Radio 15, speakers 90, amp 90, wiring, fuse holder, connectors 35.
    Bought 10g power wire by the foot at Home Depot. Runs thru new hole and grommet in firewall.
    Part of many hours fussing with details. Setup, config, here and there tweaks over time. Never was work.

    Please excuse the dirty carpeting. Work in progress. Clean now.

    The rears. Have six of these back there, 3 per side. Somehow ohm total and amp are fine.
    Needed this many for bass. Woofers are approx 5". Three per side make up for that.
    For now, two are installed in normal locations.
    Other four are facing forward, propped up against rear trim and held with blobs of butyl.
    All are set at amp rear crossover switch for full range freq.
    Installed four more of same in the Ranger. Cost 5.00 each at the local upick yard.

    Even powering all these speakers, the JBL amp can easily blow them all up if gain is set too high.


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    Last edited by gr79; 06-22-2018 at 02:32 PM.

  10. #35

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    I THANKYOU gr79!!!!!!! your help has been a time saver. I have aftermarket dash pad. If memory serves me right the grinding/shaving I will have to do is a bit different from the stock pad.....should be doable tho

  11. #36
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    For around $800.00 (cheap compared to sound systems of the '80's), you can have a kickass stereo with amp and subwoofer if you'd like. Without the subwoofer, you'd spend about $730.00. Here's what I bought for my '79 Cobra and you won't have to "hack the dash" to make the head unit fit.

    Head unit with Blue Tooth, 5-channel amp, Subwoofer
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    Front Speakers
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    Rear Speakers
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    Amp Wiring Kit
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    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  12. #37
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    If you go this route, I suggest the unplugging of the factory stereo, speakers, and amp, and leave the factory wiring there. It will not be used again. Once done, you can run your own wiring from the speakers to the amp. I suggest 12 gauge wire for this application.

    Here's some install pictures of what I did.

    The front speakers are separate "Tweeter/Woofer" components. For the tweeters, I removed the factory dash pad and speakers. From there, I took the factory speakers and "gutted" them. Yes, I cut the paper cones out, drilled out the rivets to remove the magnets, and enlarged the hole for my new 1" tweeter. I dropped the tweeter into the hole and glued it in place with PL400 construction adhesive. I then painted the frame Black. This "thinking outside the box" allowed me to mount them underneath the dashpad in the stock speaker locations without having to fabricate custom brackets. For the wiring, these tweeters came with their own wires that drop down to the kick panel, where they will connect to the extra terminals on the new woofers.

    Here's two pic's.

    Factory Speaker:

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    Gutted Factory Speaker with new 1" tweeter installed:

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    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  13. #38
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    For the front woofers, I didn't want to hack my "one year only" door panels which are hard to find so I decided to use the kick panels instead because the kick panels are readily available. I cut the 5-1/4" hole and mounted the speakers to the kick panels. I then connected the wiring from the tweeters to these woofers and added a 12 gauge wire to them, which I ran to the back of the car to connect to the 5-channel amp. PLEASE NOTE: I repainted the speaker cover grilles with Krylon's "Semi-Flat" Black paint to blend them into the Black interior better. Also, on the passenger side grille, I had to shave off two of the tabs so that I could slide it between the heater box and the a-pillar post (space was too tight).

    Driver's side woofer:

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    Passenger side woofer:

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    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  14. #39
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    For the rear speakers, I mounted those in the rear speaker locations and used 12 gauge wire to go directly to the amp. For the amp, subwoofer, and capacitor (Part of the wiring kit), I mounted them in the cargo area of the car. Since this car is used primarily for car shows and cruise nights, I never use that area anyway unless it's for drag racing (I'll get to that in a little bit).

    Here's a picture of the rear speakers, which still use the factory speaker covers:

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    Here's a pic of the cargo area as it appears today:

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    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  15. #40
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    As mentioned before, I used 12 gauge wiring to connect the front woofers, rear speakers, and subwoofer, directly to the amp. I connected the head unit directly to the amp by using three RCA type twisted audio cables (one in the amp wiring kit and 2 that were purchased separately - see pic above!). I connected the amp to the battery by using the 5 gauge wiring in the amp wiring kit, inline fuse, and capacitor. For the head unit, I had to run my own power, ground, and memory wiring. It's a pretty simple setup and it's one of the best "mods" I've done to my Cobra. This past winter, we duplicated it into my twin brother's '85 GT and now he's in love with it too. This fall, we'll be duplicating it on his son's '86 GT and then he too, will love it. LOL! Here's a picture of the cargo area as it looks on race days. I'll get a picture of the head unit after work this afternoon.

    Name:  Race Time!.jpg
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    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  16. #41
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Wew thats a high perf sound system. Clean install!
    Kick panel loc is fair game. Had surface mounted 6x9 there on my 67 verti.
    Stuck out little too much. Got kicked a lot. But they kicked back musically very well.
    No car subs or big amps back then.
    Removable speaker boxes work on rear seat floors if area is available.
    Also have the same Scosche twisted cable sets.
    Not using amp remote turn on. Have separate on/off amp switch (reused premium sound pull one).

  17. #42
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Wew thats a high perf sound system. Clean install!
    Kick panel loc is fair game. Had surface mounted 6x9 there on my 67 verti.
    Stuck out little too much. Got kicked a lot. But they kicked back musically very well.
    No car subs or big amps back then.
    Removable speaker boxes work on rear seat floors if area is available.
    Also have the same Scosche twisted cable sets.
    Not using amp remote turn on. Have separate on/off amp switch (reused premium sound pull one).
    Thank you! It was my first install with an amp, capacitor, and subwoofer and I'm very happy with the sound. Each speaker gets 40 watts of power and the subwoofer gets 300 watts. I adjusted the settings on the amp so that it's balanced between the front and the back perfectly. The bass is immense and I have to leave it at "0" for FM radio but can turn it up to "5" for music on my phone via Blu-tooth. It took me 10 hours from start to finish but I had to make a radio face plate, modify the front speakers, cut the kick panels, cut a piece of 1/2 plywood for the cargo floor to mount the subwoofer, etc....
    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  18. #43
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    Here's a picture of the head unit in the dash. EDIT: After looking at this picture, it appears that I may have to remove the head unit and reposition it so that it's level! When I'm sitting in the car it's not noticeable but in the pic it looks like it. LOL!

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    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 06-25-2018 at 04:31 PM.
    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

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