Close



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 30

Thread: Removing EFI

  1. #1
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default Removing EFI

    Hey guys, my son and I got our 91 302 on a engine stand over the weekend. First time ever doing that, feel like a real man now Lol. Anyways, we want to start removing all the efi for conversion to carb. Anybody know of any step by step instructions and videos on how to do this so we dont screw it up? Lol

    Thanks

    Name:  20180609_123048.jpg
Views: 113
Size:  72.2 KB
    Last edited by wraithracing; 06-14-2018 at 06:00 PM. Reason: Fix Picture

  2. #2

    Default

    Umm, you pull off the EFI stuff and bolt on the carb stuff, intake and distributor. Only thing I can think that might trip you up is if you plan to use a mechanical fuel pump. You would have to remove the timing cover and cam bolt to add the fuel pump eccentric.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Waikoloa , Hawaii
    Posts
    1,879

    Default

    You'll need a regulator for the fuel if using the in tank pump..

    But more importantly.. WHY????

    If it's due to a running condition, that's just lazy.

    If you simply prefer carburetors, you must be older than my old ass.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  4. #4
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    You'll need a regulator for the fuel if using the in tank pump..

    But more importantly.. WHY????

    If it's due to a running condition, that's just lazy.

    If you simply prefer carburetors, you must be older than my old ass.
    Not due to running condition, more due to the fact that I prefer carbs and I doubt I'm older than your old ass lol

  5. #5
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Anyways not looking for questions on why I'm doing it. Went through all that in a previous thread of mine. Just want some help on doing it. Thanks

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Waikoloa , Hawaii
    Posts
    1,879

    Default

    Intake, carb, throttle cable, distributor with proper gear, stick with stock fuel setup but add a regulator in the engine bay.. Delete ECU wiring etc.. Fairly straight forward.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  7. #7
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    Intake, carb, throttle cable, distributor with proper gear, stick with stock fuel setup but add a regulator in the engine bay.. Delete ECU wiring etc.. Fairly straight forward.
    Thanks, already got the right distributer for it. We are very new to this so what may seem fairly straight forward to you is not so much for me lol also forgot to add this is going in a 84gt
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 06-13-2018 at 11:07 PM.

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Waikoloa , Hawaii
    Posts
    1,879

    Default

    Who put the fuel injection on the 84? Interesting.

    Any specific questions once you get into it, post them up. Lots of knowledgable folks here.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  9. #9

    Default

    I think your engine stand is assembled backwards. The upward support should lean back not forward.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  10. #10
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    Who put the fuel injection on the 84? Interesting.

    Any specific questions once you get into it, post them up. Lots of knowledgable folks here.
    Nobody, the original motor was taken out right before I picked it up. We tore it completely down with my brother and were originally intending on rebuilding it but seen this motor come up for cheap and seeing as it's a roller block and from what the guy said running fine we decided to pick it up. Stock 50 more hp than the 84. Figured we would convert to carb and throw it in. Thanks for the advice, I've learned a lot in the short time if been on here. Was never a car guy until my son came along. Now hes 16 and wants to do so all this stuff. Lol
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 06-13-2018 at 11:25 PM.

  11. #11
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    I think your engine stand is assembled backwards. The upward support should lean back not forward.
    Nope dont think so, this is the stand
    https://www.peaveymart.com/Engine-Stand-P1437.aspx

  12. #12

    Default

    Just make sure that distributor has the right gear on it, don't want to destroy your cam. Do you know if the 84 was cfi or carbed to start with? If it was carbed then this should be easy, just add an electric fuel pump.

  13. #13

    Default

    Ok just be careful. You shouldn’t have to put a log under the oil pan to safely use an engine stand.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  14. #14

    Default

    As far as converting that engine to a carb it’s a great idea over rebuilding the 84 engine. Strip it down to the long block. If it were me I would replace all gaskets now including the Rear main seal, oil pan and head gaskets. you will need to swap the timing cover to one from a carbureted car for a mechanical fuel pump and then swap on a 2 peice fuel pump eccentric onto the cam gear. You can order the eccentrics new or swap it from your 84 engine it it was carbureted.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    WHY????
    YEAH! EFI 4 Lyfe!!

    Oh, who am I kidding, I've never gotten mine to run that well...
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  16. #16
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Just make sure that distributor has the right gear on it, don't want to destroy your cam. Do you know if the 84 was cfi or carbed to start with? If it was carbed then this should be easy, just add an electric fuel pump.
    It was carbed, we bought a dizzy for a 85 with the steel gear from rock auto. Cardone select if I remember correctly.
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 06-14-2018 at 12:01 PM.

  17. #17
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    Ok just be careful. You shouldn’t have to put a log under the oil pan to safely use an engine stand.
    We will thanks, did not need to put wood there but since I'm new to this I was being careful. The stand is rated for 1500 pounds so it's more than strong enough.

  18. #18
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    As far as converting that engine to a carb it’s a great idea over rebuilding the 84 engine. Strip it down to the long block. If it were me I would replace all gaskets now including the Rear main seal, oil pan and head gaskets. you will need to swap the timing cover to one from a carbureted car for a mechanical fuel pump and then swap on a 2 peice fuel pump eccentric onto the cam gear. You can order the eccentrics new or swap it from your 84 engine it it was carbureted.
    Ya it was more cost effective to get this one than to try and make the 84 a roller. Only thing is this was from a auto mustang and mine is a 5 speed. Pretty sure that does not make a difference cause it's just transmission right?

  19. #19

    Default

    You will need to press in a new pilot bearing into the back of crankshaft also. Rock auto sells a timken for just a few dollars. You can tap them in with a appropriate sized socket and a hammer.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  20. #20

    Default

    Watch it on the pilot bearings. Don't buy an el-cheapo. Reputable brand only. Be sure to apply a small amount of high temp bearing grease to the bearing with your little finger before you stab the tranny. Be very careful when you stab the transmission so you don't break the bearing loose inside of the bushing that carries it.

    BTW - the bearing carrier is supposed to have locktite holding it in place and should not move at all relative to the bushing that holds it in back of the crank when you push on it.

    I am always very careful when I install transmissions in my Mustang but I learned a hard lesson about these. I had one let go catostrophically -- ended with the bearing carrier and bearing shoved through the surrounding bushing. There it sat in the back of the crank. It was fine when I put the car together, made it about 20K miles even with my abuse but one day when driving the car easy I released the clutch and the bearing had worked its way back away from the input shaft. You can well imagine how well that ended. Crunch and munch T5Z input shaft and gear set, etc. I sold a transmission I bought in 1992 for $1700 and put 140K miles on as a core and got a whopping $100 for it. Really aggravating that one stupid little $5 bearing lets go like that and destroys 1/2 the driveline when it does!

    My calipers on the bearing's bushing that holds the carrier in the crank revealed a contributing problem. The center bore where the bearing carrier goes was conical shaped where its 0.002 LARGER towards the crank than towards the transmission. That is ass-backwards! They are only supposed to be 0.001 tighter and that is supposed to be tighter towards the engine! That's why I ended up with the carrier and the bearings sitting behind the bushing up inside the crankshaft.

    Tough pill to swallow for a broke guy with a broken daily driver! A friend had a T5 I could remove from a totaled 86 SSP and pay him for later. If it wasn't for that I would have been walking. The tail housing was cracked, but that was an easy swap from my dead trans.

    Anyway -- that's my experience with pilot bearings. What really upset me looking back was that the pilot bearing I had pull out had around 200K miles but was still in nice condition. I still had it where I left it so that's what got put back in at 2:00 AM (in the middle of nowhere) when it was time to start patching my old horse back together. My car has around 455K now. That poor old bearing got replaced finally with the last clutch/tranmission job I did on my car in 2016. My old input shaft looked like it had gotten rather hot at the bearing point. Pretty sure it didn't appreciate my 6000+ RPM shifting antics too much. Oh well, they'll make more parts and I'll keep buying them.

  21. #21

    Default

    Rest assured OP the timken pilot bearing is a quality part.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  22. #22
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    You will need to press in a new pilot bearing into the back of crankshaft also. Rock auto sells a timken for just a few dollars. You can tap them in with a appropriate sized socket and a hammer.
    Ok thanks, do I buy a 84 pilot bearing seeing as that's the transmission im using or do I buy it for a 91 motor?
    So the timkin fc65174?

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...t+bearing,1964

  23. #23

    Default

    The 84 and 91 use the same bearing.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  24. #24
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    The 84 and 91 use the same bearing.
    Ok perfect, thanks.

  25. #25
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,980

    Default

    Since no one really answered your first question I will try and help a bit.

    Remove the upper intake manifold first. To do that you will need to remove the 5.0/EFI plate on the top of the intake manifold runners. There should be 4 screws that hold that down. Most likely they are Torx heads, so be aware. Once that is removed you can get to the two long upper manifold bolts. I like to leave those for last after removing the rest of the bolts that hold the upper to the lower intake. If the manifold has never been removed there will also be a metal bracket on the back of the upper connecting it to the lower, essentially a support brace. Once you get the upper intake off you can decide if you want to remove the fuel injectors and fuel rails. If you do, there are two bolts on either side of the lower intake that hold the fuel rail to the intake. Remove those and then pull up on the fuel rail. Most likely some of the injectors will stay stuck in the intake and some will stay stuck in the rails. Remove the rest and that will give you clear access to the bolts that hold the lower intake in place. If you haven't already you will need to remove the distributor first. I recommend making sure you are on TDC for #1 cylinder and the timing mark is either at @ 10 degrees advance or 0 degrees TDC. FYI #1 cylinder is the first cylinder on the passenger side of the engine. You can pull the plug and rotate the engine over by hand and feel the compression to help verify TDC. I would also not what direction the rotor inside the cap is pointing that will help when you install the new distributor.

    At this point you should have the intake manifold removed. If you plan on installing an earlier timing cover for the fuel pump, then you will need to remove the accessories. Otherwise you can leave them in place as is if running an electric fuel pump. Hopefully that helps with the disassembly. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •