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  1. #26
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    I bought a kit and a few other things that were not includedin the kit from Summit for a 289 last winter. It was the best price and everything was in stock. Plus they have techs to ask questions to if needed and to verify that you're getting what you need.
    Did by chance you look at Rock Auto? You never know what you might find there.

  2. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Summit Racing has a better price on the pushrods, but again doesn't include shipping unless over $99 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...hoCDZcQAvD_BwE
    Do these qualify as "hardened"? Mr. Curtis recommends my pushrods be hardened.

    Also finding some conflicting info on length. They say they are 6.25 on LMR (as well as in the reviews on Summit), but for the regular listing on Summit, it says they are 6.272. Further confusing is LMR says they are "stock length", so what IS stock length? 6.25? Because if it's 6.272, a number of other manufacturers also make pushrods that length. And Summit does NOT categorize pushrods by application AT ALL as far as I can tell for some reason.

    It doesn't appear that if i go to the Scorpion rockers, I will need to measure for pushrods.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #28
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    If you are having your heads milled and changing to stud mount rockers, your best option is going to be to measure pushrod length for your combination and buy according to that rather than hope the standard pushrods are the correct length. Once you start milling heads, decking blocks, and changing the rocker arm geometry on a Ford the whole pushrod length changes. You want to have the correct overall length to make sure the roller rockers are positioned correctly over the top of the valve, otherwise you can cause excessive wear and actually cause damage.

    This will do what you need and the price is really good too. https://www.alexsparts.com/6-00-7-00...gt40p-gt40-e7/
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #29

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    Actually I was thinking of going pedestal mount, but nonetheless. If I'm going to measure I guess I need a solid lifter anyway, so the LMR kit makes sense.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #30

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    I've been looking around some more and it's interesting to note that the Comp pushrods' description on American Muscle says they are "hardened", and also mentions "heat-treated". We can assume they are compatible with guideplates since they are designed to work with Comp rockers, and they only make stud-mount. Whereas the Ford Racing ones say "heat-treated" but not "hardened", and they are not compatible with guideplates. There may be no difference between the two terms, I don't know.

    Also the Comp ones say they are stock length, but meant to work with Comp rockers, which only come in stud-mount.

    Just interesting. Things I didn't know.

    Since that gave me a better idea of what I can expect to pay for "upgraded" pushrods ($40-50), I thought I'd try and figure out what normal stock replacement ones cost. If you search for application specific pushrods on Autozone or O'Reilly's sites, they give you the very same information overload that Summit (who doesn't allow application specific searches for pushrods) does. "You need pushrods?! Hey look! We have performance parts here! Here's 12 freakin' pages of listings for your viewing pleasure!" NOT helpful guys.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 06-25-2018 at 10:51 AM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #31

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    I ended up ordering the TRE Performance shortblock. Should be awesome! I guess they take some time to assemble your order, so it won't be here until late summer, so I'm getting the car on the road as is. My stupid brake problem will keep me plenty busy...

    I ordered the LMR pushrod measuring thingy too. There are a lot of different videos on youtube that say "this is the best way to measure for pushrods!" and they are all different. I learned about the rocker shims too, so I ordered some of those. Also just found out there are valve spring shims too! WTF are those for?!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #32
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Valve spring shims are used when setting up heads. Sometimes you have to use shims to get the same installed height on all the springs and/or to get the correct installed spring pressure.

    Everyone that has instructed me on pushrod length has told me its generally about getting the roller or the tip of the rocker arm to stay as centered over the valve spring tip as possible. You don't want the rocker arm to roll off either end of the tip or ride on either edge. Try to keep the majority of the contact centered over the top of the valve tip and you should be just fine. This prevents excessive wear and changes in actual lift valves. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Valve spring shims are used when setting up heads. Sometimes you have to use shims to get the same installed height on all the springs and/or to get the correct installed spring pressure.

    Everyone that has instructed me on pushrod length has told me its generally about getting the roller or the tip of the rocker arm to stay as centered over the valve spring tip as possible. You don't want the rocker arm to roll off either end of the tip or ride on either edge. Try to keep the majority of the contact centered over the top of the valve tip and you should be just fine. This prevents excessive wear and changes in actual lift valves. Good Luck!
    Thanks! I've seen guys doing the thing with the sharpies and stuff. I think I'll be able to do it.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #34
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=ZephyrEFI;1884552]I ended up ordering the TRE Performance shortblock. Should be awesome! I guess they take some time to assemble your order, so it won't be here until late summer, so I'm getting the car on the road as is. My stupid brake problem will keep me plenty busy... [QUOTE]

    Brad:

    Did you go with the 306, 331, or 347?

    https://treperformance.com/c-1207039...rt-blocks.html

    Mike

  10. #35

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    306. I want to confuse the computer as little as possible, haha.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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