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  1. #1
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Rear floor pan and frame rail rust repair

    Need comments, tips, thoughts, ideas.

    Car will be 40 in Oct. Am keeping it.
    Major rust has done some serious damage to the ps frame rail back there. DS ok.
    -Found rust out hole, bottom of rail, in torque box area where it starts to curve up.
    -Rear bumper shock mount end is not pretty.
    Over axle sections are solid. Other areas fine. Car was undercoated way back.
    Knew about some of it, but seen more than i planned on seeing today.

    Took to shop today to have ps rear lower control arm replaced. Frame end bushing is shot.
    Have a good spare. Plus install ps SMR lower torque box reinforcement. All parts already purchased.
    On the lift, was clear what rust has done to the rail where the RLCA front bolt is.
    Shop did not recommend doing the work without repairs to the rail. Safety factor too.
    Disappointing setback, but it is what it is.

    Nothing has failed or is imminent, but is time to repair/replace more metal.
    So DIY phase 1 priority plan is being started today. The operation.
    Temp repair plan for now, then go forward as needed.
    Focus will be on lower control arm box area. Removing rear seat for inspection.
    Little at a time. Fab, cut, weld, rivet, whatever. New structural metal as needed.

    Wondering if LMR LRS-871R 87-93 rear frame rail will fit or splice in sections of it.
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-871R/87-93-...-frame-rail-rh

    Found video showing rear floor pan remove and replace on a 93.
    Good views of the structure under the rear floor pan.
    A real help to me. Like watching a medical operation. I am the metal-tical doc.
    Interesting view of the metal structure from a up top see thru perspective:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yw0Ozt2tug
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zqo6jbvodzk

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Default

    Neat vids.

    I don’t see why the LMR replacements wouldn’t work. Even if they need a little mods, it would be still simpler than fabricating patches.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Did temp repairs today.
    The floor pan was cut out in that area prior and patched with thick plates.
    Removing them gave me a perfect view of what was going on.

    Would like to tie in something to rear of sub frame connectors from the inside of rail.

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    I would guess that these would be helpful to reinforce your rear lower torque boxes. You can weld them in addition to the bolts for a more secure install if needed/wanted.

    https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/f...combo-package/
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks!- Always value your opinions.
    Brackets cant hurt on a non-race 150hp DD. Was easy to do with some of the rusty floor pan cut out.
    Prepped and painted the box brackets back in 2016 with multi coats of VHT Chassis and Roll Bar Epoxy paint.
    When the time comes, will be bolted to new floor pan plate.
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...46#post1882646

    Plan is to rivet thicker plate steel to cover the open floor pan area also with 1/4" rivets. Tie it in.
    And removable. That way can access that area in the future for whatever reason.
    Riveted other 14g? floor repair structural metal plates that way and came out super strong.
    HF 1/4" air riveter is gold for large rivets. Takes like 5 seconds each steel or alum.

    Also moved up on the list is to install factory chassis reinforce plates back under there.
    They are the only pieces of the Ford Motorsport Chassis Stiffening Kit i did not install yet.
    Same kit was installed on convertibles.
    Have to notch the plates to clear the sub frame connectors. Drill first to radius corners of notch cuts.
    Then Milwaukee Sawzall gets the call for the cuts. Touch up cuts, scratches, with the VHT.
    Using 1/4" steel/diachr rivets that came with the kit. Prob same ones as T-roof cars have.

    Then prep and paint area and any new steel and post weld areas with the VHT or POR like material.
    And figure out what type of channel metal to weld in the rail repair.
    Last edited by gr79; 06-09-2018 at 02:31 PM.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
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    Maybe find a donor car in a junkyard to cut out that large section. If you need some steel I maybe able to help.
    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Inspiration helps

    Thanky- very generous offer. Maybe will run into you at a show again.
    Idea is to box existing subframe area there with steel inside and out and tie it all in.
    Am determined to DIY. Dad was a prototype metal model maker at GM Fisher Body for many years.
    Growing up, had neighbors who built drag/funny car chassis back in 60's (Logghe Bros).
    My youngest bro built a Willys drag car. Had chassis pro tig welded.
    Other car and major chassis rebuilds/mods quite a few times and ongoing.
    Attachment 121494
    Attachment 121495

    Not going to be exactly pro quality, but will be safe, strong, well built, and cost less than.
    When the repair area cannot really be seen, one can get creative. Can redesign weak points.
    Going to a salvage yard gives perspective on what to do- Data for the plans/blueprint.

    Was in Menards trolling the steel hd bracket isle. Have used this stuff on the Ranger with success.
    Slightly 'redesigned' both rusted out front cab mounts and rad support stronger than new.

    Plus will visit several steel supplys in Detroit. They have bargain bins of all kinds of steel.

    Cannot have the car down for major anything at this time. No garage or yard to park it in.
    From what i see, rare donors around here are in same shape. New steel is best.
    Above family member is building new garage with high bay for a hoist. Then....yes.

    Am going to the annual Eastpoint/Gratiot cruise this Saturday.
    My close friends have a house party and many people stop by. Ron has fabbed trailers, soo...

    Also going to the annual FMRCOA rain treat swap meet at the Wayne County Fairgrounds 7/14/18
    http://www.fmrcoa.org/images/2018-IM...99-18swap1.jpg
    Never know what will show up there for sale. Have seen fox parts.
    Spare PC/GT 3 piece spoiler for 30.00.
    Spare Holley carbs, my chrome Hurst shifter handle 10.00.
    Two vg used 245/60/15 BFG T/A for 50.
    Complete 06? Mustang GT new factory leather seat cover set- 50.00 from Varsity Ford. Takeoff from an int. upgrade.
    A like new spare Americast kitchen sink there last year. Same exact one i have now, no longer made.
    If anything, the day inspires ideas.
    Last edited by gr79; 06-11-2018 at 04:21 PM.

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