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  1. #26

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    Nice job on the door speakers

  2. #27

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    Any updates????/
    93 Blk/Blk Mustang Cobra #1133 SBF with Twins 76's
    86 Black Gt Droptop

  3. #28

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    Haven't worked on it in a while. Mostly because of work and kids but also because I have not convinced myself I want to cut the doors.

    Matthew

  4. #29

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    Hi all,

    This thread is amazing!

    I didn't see a link to download the 3d modeling files...Are they uploaded somewhere on the site? I'm new around here, sorry if a little clueless, please just drop a URL if they're available.

    TIA

    -a


    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    I did. Complete models. CAD, drawing and WinISD. I will try to get something up this weekend.

    Attachment 121439

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajstein64 View Post
    Hi all,

    This thread is amazing!

    I didn't see a link to download the 3d modeling files...Are they uploaded somewhere on the site? I'm new around here, sorry if a little clueless, please just drop a URL if they're available.

    TIA

    -a

    Here is a pdf of the part dimensions I did when I built the box. Its a little rough but there should be enough info in this thread along with the pdf to get you started. There is a pic on the first page of this thread of how the parts go together. There is also a link to the driver.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #31

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    My son and I decided to mess around with his stereo.

    Heís been running a sealed rear fire 12 in a box we designed for a Chrysler Sebring convertible about 4 years ago. It sounded amazing in the Sebring but there box is not at all right for a Mustang.

    the box was a pretty complex design. When we built it we did a thin box up under the top for the needed space and intersected it with a second box thatís tall enough and deep enough to just squeeze a 12 into. It worked wonders and the dual chamber box design gave us two pitches with a solid bump from resonance and some nice smooth slopes. Very musical and threw down hard when pushed

    When thereís too much box and not enough distance to fire it into the typical gains you see from a truck space quickly becomes loss ó and lots of it. Was shockingly quiet knowing what that box did in the Sebring

    With that in mind we threw a high end Kicker 8 into an old Realistic enclosure I had laying around. I figured it would work out to be a good size for the 8. We plugged the port and played with it some but in the trunk that box is a bit too big to run sealed with that sub. It did well ported

    We did so many different orientations and found a few when we removed the spare that were great. Way more sound that the 12Ē. Next I started playing with orientations that would allow a spare and the top to go down. What ended up working best was surprising. The sub had to be fired at an angle off a board at the back of the car and the side of the box had to be parallel with the trunk lid. 1 degree off either way and we lost about 60% of our output.

    The most shocking part is it now also sounds great with the top down which is rare in a convertible

    Definately wonít win an install quality contest how it is but itís a lot more enjoyable and takes up less that 1/2 the space the 12 took in the trunk
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by erratic50; 05-22-2020 at 03:27 AM.

  7. #32

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    For the most part bass frequencies from 100 Hz down are omnidirectional. This is not new information. However, when placing bass speakers in a room or a closed space like a trunk or the cab of a vehicle the position and orientation of the speaker can become critical because of room gain (or in this case cabin gain). It is nice to see someone actually taking the time to get it right.

    Nice job.
    Matthew

  8. #33

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    It looks like crap but we are getting more output at the tones that matter than we ever got out of the 12 in that limited space.

    Whats interesting is this is the first time I’ve heard a stereo in a Mustang where the bass isn’t louder if you lean forward. Would be interesting to actually model out the path the waves are taking on their way to the listener because whatever it is, it’s clearly hitting a sweet spot on wave repeats.

    We started to ponder what we could do to squeeze a 12 in and fire it basically the same way. A challenging install for sure when we’ve only got such a small area to work with. The 12 would undoubtedly have to lean forward drastically to even sit there. The springs for the trunk lid and the glass for the top both create major challenges. The setup there right now JUST fits. A hinge spring clips the box as it goes by but it doesn’t hang up

    There’s only 1/4” of clearance between the top’s glass and the box

    The angles it’s sitting at is pretty nuts. I found it by opening the trunk with the stereo turned up and moving the sub around until I could feel a major increase in sound waves on my arms and I could hear a broad range of notes more clearly. Had to use wedges and other stuff to keep it there and close the lid to test it

    now a suite case or a laundry basket will actually go in the trunk where as before there wasn’t room for anything. I call that a win

    Thats not to say we won’t eventually build a new thin box similar to the one featured in this thread.

  9. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    Haven't worked on it in a while. Mostly because of work and kids but also because I have not convinced myself I want to cut the doors.

    Matthew
    Hey bud... amazing work... noticed the 3D printing. Any chance you could print a 79-92 headlight bezel? I've been looking into that. Seems it would be easy for your skill set. If the material could take the UV exposure.

  10. #35
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    So I have made a bit of progress on the doors and the dash.

    The speakers I have now, 3 1/2" in the dash and the 6" in the rear interior quarters just wont cut it. The 3 1/2's are too small to get good imaging or dynamics up front for me and with the top down matters just get worse.

    The system needs as much cone area and efficiency as can be installed up front. To make matters worse there are no cut-outs in front door bottoms. I don't want to put expensive drivers in the kick panels. They are called "kick" panels for a reason and I also have a clutch pedal to deal with.

    After some pretty tedious measurements the biggest hole I can cleanly cut in the bottom front of the door is 5". This will clear all of the window hardware and fasteners and not hurt the door panel integrity too much. Especially if I reinforce the door panel a bit. Unfortunately I cannot fit a big enough driver into a 5" hole to get the job done......or can I?

    I want to install a 6 1/2 driver in the front bottom of the door. A real 6 1/2" driver is actually around 7" with the grill. To get what I needed up front I chose a Focal ES 165k component set. I just chose these because I have never used them and I have heard good things about them plus my buddy who lives in the UK could get them for me for about 1/2 price.

    On to the good stuff.....

    I modeled door panel plates based on the measurements I took on the door. I modeled them to kind of match the look of what Ford did with the door panel hardware. I didn't want them to look too out of place. I matched the the angle of the door pull and I angled the driver back 10 degrees and up 10 degrees (as much as i could with out looking too obtrusive) to get them pointed a little more toward the passenger's and driver's heads.

    I aligned the driver magnet to the 5" hole center and used just enough offset the sink the driver magnet 2" into the door. I have 2 3/8" to work with.

    Model
    Attachment 122933

    Attachment 122934

    I will attach the plate to the door with 10-24 nutcerts. This will help reinforce the door panel as well. At least that is the plan.

    Attachment 122935

    Once the modeling was completed I 3D printed the plates.

    Attachment 122936

    See next post
    Can you PM me these diagrams in full size pdf so they can be easier to read.

    I am interested in trying this. Or perhaps you can sell me a pair of these for my 84 vert. I butchered the doors pretty much to try to get a 6 1/2 JBL GTO629 fit.

    I butchered the door panels too. I was thinking of starting over with a new set from LMR and with these custom fit bracket I think it would look almost stock. Did you 3D print speaker covers to look stock or does this require an aftermarket cover?

    Also, about the subwoofer, I am also looking for a way to get a bass boost without losing what little space I have left. The case you built fits right into the space where the convertible top goes when its lowered? Is it possible to fit something under the passenger seat?

    I have a Custom Auto Sound retro stereo. Its OK, not great. I was thinking of upgrading to their new model that has built in Bluetooth. I have an Alpine power brick. This one. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-TWJM0V...UaAohjEALw_wcB
    I have four 6 1/2 speakers running off the 4 channels. I have my dashboard 3 1/2's and a pair of 3/4 JBL tweeters I installed in the old stock power amp spot center dash, running direct off the head unit.

    I hear the dash speakers louder than the 4 door speakers. If I try to raise the gain on them the breaker starts triggering every 10 seconds. When I lower it to where the thing runs steady with no breakup, the dash speakers running off the head unit overpower the Amps speakers.

    Its frustrating, Im trying to find a better set up so I can enjoy the door speakers.

  11. #36

  12. #37
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    That looks like just what I need. Will this jack into my Alpine 4 channel brick if all 4 channels are taken by speakers?

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Reading bits and pieces, my take on it is: has its own amp, connects like the Alpine does to the radio.
    Since its amp and speaker are matched to each other, would be easy to add. Self contained.
    Does not need any connection from the Alpine, only to the radio
    "Both L+R speaker level inputs (from the radio) can be connected to play L+R bass signals."
    Radio head unit needs decent power to connect two amps via RCA input.
    Dunno if you can use both at the same time.

    "The speaker can be connected into any car's head unit using line level RCA or speaker level.
    Note that the BASSPRO SL requires power and grounding.
    The BASSPRO SL is a powered sub. It doesnít need an amp.

    Is Class D like the Alpine amp. A very decent 125w RMS.
    Connection to head unit, power, ground. Another potential 12a max draw.
    More info further down the product page.
    The PDF install guides should show what can be done connection wise.

    The FAQ answer to most inquiries is "submit a case request at https://www.jbl.com/support-contact.html and the Customer Service Team will be more than happy to assist you."
    Last edited by gr79; 07-17-2020 at 11:39 PM.

  14. #39
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    I love this thread, I have always wanted to have better sound in my ragtop. I dont recall the speakers in the dash or rear, they are nothing special.
    I have a pair of 12's in a spare tire enclosure, hooked to a small old Class A Auto Tek Amp running the subs....
    I cant wait to see how it all works out!
    I am hoping that you will be interested in helping me out if I ever get the chance to work on the stereo setup.

  15. #40
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Reading bits and pieces, my take on it is: has its own amp, connects like the Alpine does to the radio.
    Since its amp and speaker are matched to each other, would be easy to add. Self contained.
    Does not need any connection from the Alpine, only to the radio
    "Both L+R speaker level inputs (from the radio) can be connected to play L+R bass signals."
    Radio head unit needs decent power to connect two amps via RCA input.
    Dunno if you can use both at the same time.

    "The speaker can be connected into any car's head unit using line level RCA or speaker level.
    Note that the BASSPRO SL requires power and grounding.
    The BASSPRO SL is a powered sub. It doesn’t need an amp.

    Is Class D like the Alpine amp. A very decent 125w RMS.
    Connection to head unit, power, ground. Another potential 12a max draw.
    More info further down the product page.
    The PDF install guides should show what can be done connection wise.

    The FAQ answer to most inquiries is "submit a case request at https://www.jbl.com/support-contact.html and the Customer Service Team will be more than happy to assist you."
    Currently I have 4 door speakers, all GTO 629's connected to the 4 channels of the Alpine Amp. I have two three and a half inch dash speakers connected to the head units front speaker inputs and a pair of 3/4 inch JBL tweeters connected to the head units rear channels. I made a custom plate to hold the tweeters in the center spot the stock amp used to be in.

    So if all my speaker channels are used up on both the head unit and the amp, where would I jack the sub-woofer in?

    Also I'll have to get creative with making it mount under the passenger seat and running power and ground to it as well.

  16. #41
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    They say it connects to the head unit
    If used as a second amp, use a 'y' wired or rca cable connection to supply another set of R+L channels.
    Same deal as a plumbing 'T'. The Y adds an additional R+L signal feed branch for the second amp.
    The Y is installed before the Alpine amp on the same inputs from the radio. Amp runs independently.
    For sure, wiring gets spaghetti like but worth the result.
    Could use the same power source as the Alpine if the circuit is up to it.
    Is easy to run another separate power line from the battery, use a maxifuse with holder, feed wire thru an existing firewall grommet.
    That way takes a load off existing factory wires.
    I also run 8 speakers. The 2 dash and six 5x7 in back. The stock radio fader and balance work too. F-R gain is at the JBL amp.
    Heck new cars have what 20? wonder how they connect that. Ohms and phasing gets tricky with aftermarket.

  17. #42
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    They say it connects to the head unit
    If used as a second amp, use a 'y' wired or rca cable connection to supply another set of R+L channels.
    Same deal as a plumbing 'T'. The Y adds an additional R+L signal feed branch for the second amp.
    The Y is installed before the Alpine amp on the same inputs from the radio. Amp runs independently.
    For sure, wiring gets spaghetti like but worth the result.
    Could use the same power source as the Alpine if the circuit is up to it.
    Is easy to run another separate power line from the battery, use a maxifuse with holder, feed wire thru an existing firewall grommet.
    That way takes a load off existing factory wires.
    I also run 8 speakers. The 2 dash and six 5x7 in back. The stock radio fader and balance work too. F-R gain is at the JBL amp.
    Heck new cars have what 20? wonder how they connect that. Ohms and phasing gets tricky with aftermarket.
    I was gonna upgrade my head unit to this https://www.classiccarstereos.com/19...h-usa-740.html

    I have the USA 630 but these days bluetooth is a must, This unit not only has bluetooth but it also has a subwoofer output so that what im doing. getting the USA 740 and this JBL subwoofer.

  18. #43
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Was thinking about the door speakers
    Will they be ok? Water covers to protect from door water?
    Prob ok. JBL knows about materials for products used in auto/marine environ.

    Am using premium sound 25w Mach two way 6 x 8 speakers from certain 90's Explorer front doors. Paid 5.00 ea.
    The back of the speaker spider is covered, sealed from the elements. Std speakers are open back.
    https://www.ebay.com/p/2210004338?ii...yABEgI-IfD_BwE
    Last edited by gr79; 07-29-2020 at 04:32 PM.

  19. #44
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I ordered the USA 740 and the JBL Baspro both from Classic Car Stereo. I'll post when I get them installed.

  20. #45
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Just an update,

    I got the Custom Autosound USA 740 and the JBL Bass Pro SL 8. Good thing I let an install shop do this for me/ Not only was the subwoofer set up just right but they found out why my door speakers were so weak. The rear speakers mounted in the rear panels, had the 2 tabs the speaker wires plug into touching the steel brace thats behind the panel. So both rear speakers were shorting out and killing the power from the Alpine. Rotated the speakers 180 degrees and now all 4 door speakers are fully lit up.

    I now have bluetooth with the USA 740 so I can play music not only from my smart phone, but now I can stream Sirius XM through the app from my subscription attached to my wifes car.

    the JBL Basspro SL 8 was the best idea, thanks for the recommendation. It totally kills. I wasn't expecting much from the mixed re views I read, but my car thumps like a 80's discotheque.

    I could not possibly be happier right now. Well maybe a little happier. I tried connecting with the original poster about either buying a pair of his custom front door speaker mounts, or at least the full schematic or the program to feed a 3D printer to make a pair of them. I spoke to a local shop that has 3D printing capability, but they cant make these mounts without the program and or file the 3D printer needs to fabricate these.

    I butchered my door panels pretty good getting 6 1/2's to mount, but its an eyesore. Anybody else have any suggestions on how to copy the mounts he posted?

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