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Thread: which Primer?

  1. #26
    FEP Power Member Puter's Avatar
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    Looks like you are having fun learning. Great job! I remember doing my 84 complete 17 years ago.

    When I did my 89 convertible, one thing I learned is that since paper and tape were so cheap, I protected the underside of the car from spray.

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    85 GT convertible

  2. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puter View Post
    Looks like you are having fun learning. Great job! I remember doing my 84 complete 17 years ago.

    When I did my 89 convertible, one thing I learned is that since paper and tape were so cheap, I protected the underside of the car from spray.

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    Taping the inside of the fender wells is one tough job. Tried several different methods before I finally stuck strips of gorilla tape inside there and hung my plastic or paper on the tape, still tough.
    It will be more fun when it turns out white and shiny and I can start putting her back together.

    Thanks
    Brant

  3. #28
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorbackGT View Post
    Thanks for the tips guys, I have to say this being my first paint project, there's a lot more involved than one would think. Anyway, baby steps, getting it done step by step, and this damn Arkansas heat wave isn't helping, humidity is unreal. Buddy of mine has a huge shop with a paint booth has offered for me to bring it to him when it's ready for paint, I haven't decided yet, he's notorious for getting a vehicle and keeping it forever. And I kinda would like to be able to say I did it myself, I have brought it this far. Anyway, I appreciate all the tips you guys provide.

    Thanks
    Brant
    If you have a buddy with a paint booth, you might see if he will allow you to bring it in and use the booth, but you still spray it. That way you can still do the work and get the job done ASAP and not have it stay there forever.

    If you have the car primered, sanded, cleaned, and prepped then it should be nothing more than rolling the car into the booth, mask off as needed, wipe down and start spraying color. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #29

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    I ordered the paint today, went with the single stage and also will do the sealer before top coat. My question now is about the heat and humidity. I am in north Arkansas and it's very hot and humid right now. I know this will effect the paint some how but I have zero experience with car painting. I know Trey recommends early in the morning but even our low temps are only dropping to mis 70"s.

    Thanks
    Brant

  5. #30
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    The reducer/activator is generally supplied for a certain temp range. The warmer the temps, the quicker the flash time and higher chance of orange peel / dry spots.

    When I repainted my SVO (acrylic enamel), the reducer was mid temp and the ambient temps were too warm - I ended up with a massive amount of orange peel.

    Luckily for me, my car is black so I just ended up with a bunch of extra wet sanding before the buffing could be started.

    Humidity will affect your air supply. You need to be sure you have a good water trap. I hit the purge on my trap between every coat. An air dryer is better, but a lot more expensive.

    I also use the disposable water traps right at the paint gun air inlet.
    Last edited by JTurbo; 06-26-2018 at 09:15 PM.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  6. #31

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    Thanks for the info J. I don't know if I should wait for it to cool off or go ahead and spray. I have noticed the water in the filter a lot and am adding another dessiccant inline filter as well as the one at the gun.I also bought a new hose so hopefully no water there. I guess I'll just play it by ear as they say. I have put so much work into it this far, don't really want it to go south now.

    Thanks
    Brant

  7. #32
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Reducers and Catalyst are sold by temperature range or drying time. Generally Fast is for cool temperatures, Medium is for Mid temperatures, and Slow if for Hot temperatures. The idea is that as the ambient temperature rises it takes less time for the solvents in the paint to dry, evaporate, flash off, etc.

    The issue you have using your setup is that you don't have the full air flow of an actual spray booth. That doesn't mean you can't get a good paint job, but it does require you make some adjustments. Normally when you have less airflow you will want the Reducer/Activator to be one step Faster/Hotter than normal to help the solvents Flash quicker so you can continue painting. With your temperatures being so high and the high humidity you have two issues fighting against you. Although the solvents flash because of a chemical reaction, the high humidity can slow that process. The concern there is getting solvents trapped under subsequent coats of paint will generally cause them to "POP" later and therefore give you the dreaded solvent pops that require work to fix.

    The other issue with high humidity especially if you are using a small compressor is the added condensation in the tank and the lines. You are going to want to make sure you drain the tank often, run a GOOD water separator filter and and most likely an additional one right at the gun. Water getting to the gun will cause you paint issues again that will require more work to fix later.

    I still recommend spraying the car as early in the morning as you can. This will help with the temperature. If the humidity is too high, then you can back it off a couple of hours to help with that. Obviously the day gets hotter as it goes on, so again spraying before the highest heat of the day will help to eliminate some of your issues. Most likely you will have to use the HOT/FAST Reducer/Activators and make them work. If the heat is extreme then there are Retarding Agents you can add also to slow down the drying/flash times a little bit more, but you really want to be careful adding them in without experience as they can cause issues too.

    If you can spray some test panels before hand that will help you determine what works and what doesn't. Definitely easier to figure this out on a couple of small pieces than over the entire car. Best of luck and I am sure with some planning and attention to detail you can make it all work for you and have a great paint job in the end.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #33

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    Thanks Trey, I will definitely get an old hood too get it dialed in, already had planned to do that anyway to dial in gun anyway so to get paint mixed right just makes sense as well. As I stated before, I did a lot of work to get it this far, damn sure don't wantt it to go south now.

    Thanks
    Brant

  9. #34

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    Well as they say, one step forward two steps back. I had everything ready to spray yesterday, so I started with my sealer on the spoiler, bumper covers, gas door, and fender extensions. Well actually for my first time spraying, it went well except when I sprayed the top coat and it was bad orange peel. At first I thought it wasn't too bad and I could live with it, but after about an hour I decided I couldn't. Now I sprayed a part of the lower rear quarter with my top coat where no sealer was sprayed and it laid out perfect. So now I spent all day today re sanding the spoiler, bumper covers, gas door and fender extensions for paint again, hopefully this week sometime but maybe next weekend. Anyway here are some sad pics.Name:  IMG_20180630_154257322[1].jpg
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  10. #35
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Hard to tell what might be going on in the pictures.

    It sounds like maybe your sealer didn't lay down nice and smooth and the color coat really showed that once you started spraying it.

    If you used the same spray gun setting, etc. with the sealer compared to the color coat that might be part of your issue. Depending on what sealer and type you are spraying. If the sealer is a primer/sealer than you may need to adjust the mixing ratio, spray gun setting, air pressure, etc. to get the sealer to lay down nice and smooth.

    Not 100% that is what is going on, but again just based upon your comments that is my first thought. Hope things go better on round two.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #36

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    Yeah, Trey that's exactly what happened. I really don't know why the sealer didn't flatten out but it was bad. I did use the same gun and this was the first time I have used it, It was the purple gun from HF. Anyway, I've decided to forgo the sealer and just spray the paint. I hope I get lucky and it all looks like the little spot I sprayed on the quarter.

    The weather is supposed to cool down this weekend so probably Saturday morning I'll spray it.

    Thanks for all the help

    Brant

  12. #37
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Although not the best way to use a sealer, you could spray all the spots you need to seal. Allow them to dry and then sand them smooth again making sure not to break thru to bare metal. That will give you the coverage and still allow you a good smooth surface.

    My guess is the Purple gun from Harbor Freight is a 1.3-1.4 Tip which will work for BC/CC but is most likely a bit too small for your sealer as mixed. If you sealer has a variable mix ratio, you might consider reducing it more to thin it out if possible. Otherwise you may need to spray the sealer with a 1.5-1.7 tip get the sealer to spray well and lay down properly. That will most likely be the easier and quicker option, although that does mean a separate gun, but still less work than spraying, sanding, and spraying again. Hope that helps.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  13. #38

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    She's alive. I rolled her pit intp the sun this morning to get a look at the paint in the sun. After I spayed I had bad orange peel, so I sanded with 1500, 2000 and 3000 before buffing with Meguirs 105. I think looks pretty good except for about 3 spots wher I burned through on edges {damn it}. But anyway, I am going to start putting her back together.

    Here are some pics.

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  14. #39
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I wish I would have seen this thread sooner. Most of these comments won’t help you now but might help others!

    Air compressor deficiency can be made up for with storage and pump time. Old 100 lb propane tanks clean up great with a little ammonia. We had two on our compressor setup before the regulator with a valve so we could close them up when disconnecting lines.

    Numerous box fans on one end and numerous air filters on the other make a huge difference in a booth. So does a fresh air supply.

    The last time I painted a car I rented time in the booth at the local Macco and used my own gun. This because the time before I let them spray it and the finish the achieves on my hard work looked like CRAP.

    Don’t forget to turn off the lights in the booth once it’s sprayed — keeps the bugs away!
    Last edited by erratic50; 07-15-2018 at 02:41 PM.

  15. #40

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    Well I am making progress getting her all back together. Still need to repaint the spoiler after a bug landed in the fresh paint and I made a mess of trying to remove it. Also have an issue with the adhesive on the bead weatherstripping for the t tops. Anyone have an issue with the after market adhesive on these? And if so what did you use to make it stick?
    Also the triangle trim around the quarter windows is missing a clip, anyone know where to pick these up?

    Thanks for all the help,

    Brant

  16. #41
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    looking good!nice job.

  17. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxmatt View Post
    looking good!nice job.
    Thanks Matt. You don't have one of those quarter window trim retainer clips do you? I swear I don't remember taking off all those parts, Lol.

    Brant

  18. #43
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Nice to see one making it back to its former glory!

  19. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Nice to see one making it back to its former glory!
    Thanks Erratic. My first paint job, pretty happy with it right now. A lot of sweat went into this.

    Brant

  20. #45

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    I got all the interior back in today. Actually went back in easier than it came out. I used dupli color gray interior on the quarter panels, turned out pretty good. I still need to touch up the trim, especially on headlight buckets, re spray spoiler and the body side moldings. The moldings cleaned up beautifully with acetone, I am tempted to put them back on like they are. Do they come from the factory painted? As they are they do look lighter, faded, than the SEM painted sail panels and trim that I have already painted.

    Thanks
    Brant

  21. #46
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    The trim pieces were originally molded in color IIRC,

    I would recommend repainting everything as that will give you the best look and provide the best long term durability. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  22. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Looking good!

    The trim pieces were originally molded in color IIRC,

    I would recommend repainting everything as that will give you the best look and provide the best long term durability. Good Luck!
    OK, thanks Trey, I was wondering if they were painted or not. Someone along the way had definitely painted them. After I cleaned them up they look fantastic. But I will go ahead and spray them in order to match all the other painted trim.

    Thanks
    Brant

  23. #48

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    Does anyone know what 3M adhesive I need for the rubber moldings? And do I need to have all of the curl out of the moldings before I try and stick them?


    Thanks
    Brant

  24. #49

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    I used sem plastic adhesion promoter. Some like bull dog, I layed mine out in the sun, that will soften them up so they lay strait(the metal backings are off mine, others may dissagree with that). I've seen also where people have hung them with weights on them if they have shrunk some, still in the sun.Name:  1532032211313831572514.jpg
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    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 07-19-2018 at 03:36 PM.

  25. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    I used sem plastic adhesion promoter. Some like bull dog, I layed mine out in the sun, that will soften them up so they lay strait(the metal backings are off mine, others may dissagree with that). I've seen also where people have hung them with weights on them if they have shrunk some, still in the sun.Name:  1532032211313831572514.jpg
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    I think I am going to try and stick 'em on this weekend. Thanks for the info.

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