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  1. #1

    Default Don't remove the metal backing on side moldings

    I searched, I really did. I think this should be added to an existing thread but I could not find the one I wanting to add it to. If someone can send me a link and delete this post that is dandy with me. I was at a car show today and WOW. That is close to 2 inches total I would say. I looked and there was no metal on the back of these. This is the result...



    Last edited by homer302; 05-05-2018 at 06:43 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
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    Shrinkage..
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  3. #3

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    What? You mean it shrinks?

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member Fearnot's Avatar
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    Yep, definitely can’t remove ALL the metal on the door moldings. I’ve had good results by removing about 4” from each end so the curl lays down.
    88 Turbo Coupe auto
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  5. #5
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fearnot View Post
    Yep, definitely can’t remove ALL the metal on the door moldings. I’ve had good results by removing about 4” from each end so the curl lays down.
    Thats what I did with mine.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by STL79Coupe View Post
    Thats what I did with mine.
    I have had 100% success by just taking a hacksaw and cutting several vertical slits in the metal where the curl is. Obviously being careful to not cut into the molding itself. For one because I am lazy and that is less work to me and for another because it seems to work!

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Unless you remove all the metal, you'll never get it to lay down smooth unless you buy all new pieces. I've never had a problem removing them

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    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member ddx77's Avatar
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    Default Don'tremove the metal backing on side moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by RazorbackGT View Post
    What? You mean it shrinks?
    Like homer302. I’ve got a set of replacements that I have to install.

    I was considering trying to add a small piece of an old molding and blending it in. Not sure if that possible.




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  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    Unless you remove all the metal, you'll never get it to lay down smooth unless you buy all new pieces.
    Not true. If they have been removed carefully, they will be fine. Mine still have the metal on all pieces.

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  10. #10

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    Yep. Totally agree. I can prove the statement that "you'll never get it to lay down smooth unless you buy all new pieces." wrong on at least 3 cars.

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorbackGT View Post
    What? You mean it shrinks?
    Like a frightened turtle!

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member Ken P's Avatar
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    The one shown in the first pic appears to have been cut down? Maybe somebody with a low mileage original can show the ends? Especially the leading end.
    86 LX Coupe 4E
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    FEP Senior Member 83GTJIM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt J View Post
    Like a frightened turtle!
    Thank you for that. I was waiting.
    MCA #110307
    "Saved" 25k mi 83 GT - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ght=Wrecked+GT
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  14. #14
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    They are reproduced and are just fine unless they butt up to factory stuff. Basically that means the 85-86 GT either has to make due or live without the GT.

    As for the rest of the cars, only have to worry about it right by the bumpers.

  15. #15
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    As stated by a few member already, the best option on any year moldings is to not remove the metal backing completely. If you have curls or waves at the ends, then either remove a short section of metal to help the molding lay down or cut small slots in the metal backing to reduce the stress of the curl/wave.

    The moldings between the doors are much worse than the moldings that match up to the bumpers. This is because the moldings between the doors are thinner than the ones that meet up to the bumpers. Obviously if the bumper ones are severely warped that is a different case, but I have had good luck over the years straightening all of the moldings out using some 2x6, some weight and either heat or sun placing them in the sun for several days.

    As for the reproduction moldings I have only used the 85/86 parts at this time. They are decent, but not exact. Most will not notice the slight difference, but there is a slight shape difference between the two. The one caveat I will mention is that after looking at several original pieces that I have, it appears that Ford's quality control was not perfect either back then and there was noticeable difference between the original pieces also. I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you are restoring a car to 100% original concourse status. The moldings are reasonably priced and a much easier and simple installation that will save a ton of time over restoring a set of beat up moldings.

    I personally will be using the 79-84 reproduction set on my 82 RS and maybe my 79 PC. I have a bunch of misc body side moldings, but not sure I have a complete original set for either car at this point. I do have some NOS pieces, but again not sure I have a full car. Best of luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

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  16. #16
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Yep. Totally agree. I can prove the statement that "you'll never get it to lay down smooth unless you buy all new pieces." wrong on at least 3 cars.
    The last three I did layed down smoother than baby **** without the metal, and no shrinkage.. Go figure
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  17. #17

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    For my 85 GT all I have is wavy door pieces. .. and I mean really wavy. Not to mention the smiley face curve. For the 83 Capri they are short but not too wavy.

    What's the proper procedure?

    Put in sun for 5 hours then once hot flatten with two 2x6s clamped on either side of them?

    Or do you use a cut off wheel to slice the metal backing strategically before doing this?

    Somewhere I recall reading here someone stretching them with weights dangling off in the sun? Does this work with the metal still in the backing?

    I was planning on working with these 85 moldings this weekend but it is Mothers day so we shall see.
    Last edited by foot2floor; 05-08-2018 at 07:27 AM.

  18. #18
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I generally let the moldings sit in the sun for several hours to warm up. Then I place between two 2 x 6 boards and usually place some weight on them to help flatten them down. The weight can be sand bags, old drums, cinder blocks, etc. Whatever works. I don't usually clamp them as that causes issues with putting the weight on them, but you can give it a try.

    I leave them out in the sun baking for a couple of days. Then I check and see how they came out. If your's are really wavy, then you may need to cut the metal backing in some strategic places, but I would probably try the process above first and see how they turn out unless you need them done ASAP.

    I have never tried the stretching option for the moldings, so I can neither confirm nor deny how well that works.

    I will also state that I bought the repro door moldings for my 85 GT Road Racer and overall they aren't bad in regards to matching up to the existing moldings. No they are not perfect, but overall I was happy with them for the cost, so that definitely an option.

    I have no experience YET with the 79-84 moldings, but I will be buying a full set for between the wheels when I finally need them for my 82 RS and ultimately for my 79 PC too. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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