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Thread: Head porting

  1. #1

    Default Head porting

    I decided to do a little home porting. A gasket kit I bought came with two intake manifold gaskets. Gasket #1 with a large water port and smaller intake ports and gasket #2 with a smaller water port and a larger intake port. The head I have is a GT40 and the water ports match gasket #1 but I like the intake port sizes of gasket #2 since they match the rpm air gap better. The problem is on that gasket the holes for the water port are small, overlapping over the port, and don’t surround the water port like they do on the gasket#1. Would there be a problem running it like this, I’m afraid of it not sealing correctly. On both gaskets, the edges of the holes are raised. I would I run that towards intake or head side?

  2. #2

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    Don't worry about covering the water port a little bit. There'll be plenty of flow. If it bothers you, you could trim back the gasket and add a little RTV around the water port. Which you should do anyway. Happy porting.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  3. #3

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    The fel-pro set for a 96 5.0 Explorer will match up to the gt40 heads perfectly. It’s part MS95952. It’s the highest quality metal backed set and you can find it online for 13.00
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member
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    If you are doing the head porting yourself, be advized to NOT gasket-match the intake ports in the heads and the intake. Doing so will interrupt the velocity flow of your intake tract. Instead, make a template from your intake manifold port shape and port the head side to that.
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
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  5. #5

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    The intake gasket matched the intake really well. I decided against porting heavily on the floor and roof, more like smoothen out the transition, it was very shark and botched. I’m doing a good mild port, prolly won’t be a significant net gain, but if it’s 5 hp lol I wouldnt complain. Making due wth what I have


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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    You should focus more of your attention on the exhaust ports and header flanges. You can bolt the headers directly to the heads disassembled and figure out where to remover overhanging material from the header flanges easily by feeling around up there with a finger. The valve guide bosses can be massaged quite a bit to smooth out the flow. Attention to the guide bosses is a bigger deal on the exhaust side than the intake side due to the direction of flow. Bowl blending is always a good idea, just be careful not to hit the seats. When you're done cutting you will want to really smooth the exhaust ports out with sanding rolls. I imagine a Fel-pro 1415 header gasket would work well, on my application it worked even better flipped upside down.

    The key on the intake side is making sure the ports in the heads are slightly larger than the exits on the manifold, emphasis on slightly - don't turn them into funnels. That blue gasket you have is too small, and will compress out into the ports. A fel-pro 1250s3 will probably be a better fit. Aside from taking care of obstructions leading into the intake port, I'd probably only go as far as bowl blending and removing casting flaws on the intake side. Good luck!

    Cale

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
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    Some good info here. These are for P heads, but some of the info should be very similar.
    http://www.diyporting.com/
    http://www.diyporting.com/gtpin.html
    http://www.diyporting.com/gtpex.html
    http://www.diyporting.com/PIupdate.html
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
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