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Thread: Ten pin mystery

  1. #1

    Default Ten pin mystery

    Here's a wire problem. Found a wire broken near the firewall recently. Seems to exit the bottom of the white ten pin connector. Doesn't go anywhere. The other 'half' isn't there. Missing. So I tried to trace it. It is orange but the factory wiring diagram doesn't list an orange wire at either ten pin connector. Thought it might go to the EGR as I often get a code from the EGR. Did more tracing by opening up the bundles but the EGR is spliced into the TPS and away it goes. Check out the photos. First is the wire laid out so we can see it.
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    Next is the ten pins back to how they usually sit. The orange wire seems to trend toward the passenger side of the engine.
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    The next two photos show the VREF wire for the TPS and EGR. It traces alright although I need to redo the splice.
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    As the factory diagram seems to be off- or my car is off- my guess now is maybe an injector wire. I say that due to an ongoing running lean code from the computer.
    What does everyone think? I could try to trace the orange wire back to the computer and maybe this weekend I might. But I will also take the upper manifold off and trace injector wires. I did replace them last summer but don't recall breaking any wires. Certainly possible. But where is the other end?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    what year? If you look at the post pinned to the top of this forum there are wiring diagrams. For most of them there are connector diagrams as well. You should be able to figure it out from there.
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  3. #3
    FEP Super Member
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    That wire goes on tbe back of the head ( ground)
    Of the top of my head , i believe it has to do with the o2 sensors .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  4. #4

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    The orange wire on the 'salt' shaker (white connector) is the ground for the O2 sensor heater circuit.
    It should connect to a ring lug that's bolted to the back of the passenger-side cylinder head.
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  5. #5

    Default

    That would explain my lean code, eh? Thanks greatly. I'll double check my wiring diagrams but this should do it.
    Cheers.

  6. #6

    Default

    That would explain my lean code, eh? Thanks greatly. I'll double check my wiring diagrams but this should do it.
    Cheers.

  7. #7

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    Car is an 86GT. I don't suppose anyone has any kind of photo of the connector? The wiring diagram just shows a splice but there is no splice near the harness. I can likely find a good ground out of the way.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Dance Dance Dance to my Ten Pin Guitar, care of Dean_T.

    1989 SEFi to Carb 1984 Notchback Mustang swap, last picture shows some of the 86 Port EFI detail.


    The 86 is a little different if its still Speed Desnity, and hasn't had the HEGO sensor jumpered with the wire changes at the sensor. Ford did some quirky stuff to ensure everything was the same basic wiring from 86 to 89.


    Issues to content with are the same as Dean_T dealt with. Your car will also have a resistor on the IAC and some other quirks to be wary of.


    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post



























  9. #9
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    See v8only's sig

    Quote Originally Posted by v8only
    Check the link in my sig for the full 86 electrical and vacuum ford diagrams

    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip


    Quote Originally Posted by v8only View Post
    The fuel pump relay requires two 12 volt sources.

    1. Key On power
    2. Steady always on power

    The key on power is fed from the ignition switch. When that plastic switch under the column plastics fail, it separates, and you lose key-on power to the relay.

    The 12 volt constant is fed from the fuseable link and goes into the relay. When you turn the key on, it sends 12 volt power to the relay under the seat. From there, it turns the relay on, which then Diverts power to the constant on wire, hence running the circuit off of the always on line.

    with the key in the on position, verify you have both sources of 12 volt going into the relay. If you only have one source, turn the key off. Probe the relay. If you know have nothing, then the constant 12v power is missing. Troubleshoot that circuit. If you do have power with the key off, then your key on power isn't working and you should look at that white ignition switch below the key.

    If you have both sources of power, then you need to leave the key on, and probe for a single power source going into the cutoff in the trunk, and make sure power is going into the cutoff, and coming back out to the fuel pump

    Check the link in my sig for the full 86 electrical and vacuum ford diagrams

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