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  1. #1

    Default Driving with a rusted frame rail

    After going over my 85 GT, I found some rust-through on the drivers side frame rail below the strut tower. I am fully prepared to deal with this, but would like to spend some time getting to know the vehicle a little better and doing some smaller projects this spring/summer before tearing into a project of this magnitude. This is my first fox body since the early 90s and I've never experienced one with frame rust. The car sat for several years and needs basically every wear item to be replaced.

    Is it crazy or dangerous to drive this thing? I'm not talking autocross or even highway speeds- just some county roads and local cruising to give me time to work up a game plan this fall/winter. Pics are not great. I can get better detail tomorrow.

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  2. #2
    FEP Super Member Ken P's Avatar
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    Remember there is rust you can see and there is the rust you can't see. Typically if you can see this much there are other areas that will need replacing. Also since this is where the K member bolts to the frame rail that is pretty scary stuff.
    86 LX Coupe 4E
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  3. #3

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    That brake line for the front brakes where it goes into the rear port of the prop valve worries me more than the frame rail.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowetlx View Post
    That brake line for the front brakes where it goes into the rear port of the prop valve worries me more than the frame rail.
    So you're saying the frame looks ok to drive on... LOL! Yes, that is on the to do list along with a rear brake rebuild kit.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken P View Post
    Remember there is rust you can see and there is the rust you can't see. Typically if you can see this much there are other areas that will need replacing. Also since this is where the K member bolts to the frame rail that is pretty scary stuff.
    Good point and I hear you.

  6. #6

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    Here are two options I'm looking at:

    LMR Frame Rail Kit or NPD OE Ford replacement



  7. #7
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Remember, every time you apply the brakes, the k-member is trying to rotate forward. A solid, rust free frame rail prevents this from happening.......

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Dave9052's Avatar
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    How is the passenger side? Hard to imagine that much rust limited to that area

  9. #9

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    Watch a youtube channel called tko restro. You would be surprised how bad "good" looking frame rails look once the paint is stripped
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  10. #10

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    Thanks for all the replies. Do I need to pull the engine and transmission for this?

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member
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    The best fix would be to pull the engine and remove that whole apron and frame assy from the firewall forward, and replace it with a good used one. That's the best way to fix it.

  12. #12

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    Hi all,

    I've been lurking on the site, but not posting much lately. I wanted to revisit this thread and get some advice. I ended up driving the 85 throughout 2018 with no issues, but have not driven it since that time. Had a couple of projects that have kept it off the road. The car is really clean, rust-wise, except for a small rust spot on the passenger side floor pan and the previously mentioned front frame rails.

    I'm at a point where I'm ready to tackle the frame rail issue. I'm planning to pull the engine and trans for this- what's the best way to do it? I have an engine hoist and the car is currently sitting on a 4 post lift. Should I remove the 5-speed first and then pull the engine? Any advice is appreciated.

  13. #13
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I personally like to pull the engine and transmission as a unit. Saves me time and trouble and keeps me from having to lay on my back under the car for extended periods of time. If you have a 4 post lift that point is not valid. If you want to pull the engine and trans as individual units, then I would pull the transmission first and then pull the engine. You will need to support the back of the engine when pulling the transmission, but otherwise very straight forward.

    The other option is to drop the engine/trans combo out the bottom with the K member since most likely that will need to be removed for the frame rail repairs. I highly recommend to remove the springs with the engine/trans still in to help with the removal of the springs. The correct Ford style spring compressor is highly recommended if you have stock springs in the car. Lowering springs are much easier and often can be done without a spring compressor if you know what you are doing. Hope that helps!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Trey,
    I know this has been discussed before, but what about the Maximum Motorsports tool? I have one but have yet to use it. I'm just curious which is the better option. Have you used both?
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
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  15. #15
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    Trey,
    I know this has been discussed before, but what about the Maximum Motorsports tool? I have one but have yet to use it. I'm just curious which is the better option. Have you used both?
    The Maximum tool helps with install of lowering springs. Definitely not for removal of stock springs. You can get the springs out without a compression tool if you know how to do it and take the right precautions. Installing them without it can be done too, but I don't recommend it. Honestly one of the main reasons that all of my Foxes are lowered even if using the OEM springs. I HATE dealing with the long stock springs. So I cut a coil off is reusing or preferably use a set of Eibach, H&R, Maximum Motorsports or just convert to coil overs like I am getting ready to do on my Pace Car.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member
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    As for the frame rail fix, I just came across LMR's frame rail repair kit. They have two options. One is for smooth rails and cost $270. The second is more like the originals and cost $300. That's per side. The kits come with the lower "U" shaped box, a cover piece that goes under the battery, and another piece that goes in the wheel well area the backside of the strut tower. Nice looking kit.

  17. #17

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    I did mine last winter, if you take your time and have a place to leave the car in pieces it’s not a bad job.
    I started in late fall and finished in early spring working one or two evenings a week and Sunday afternoons.

    Pull the engine and trans as one piece and put it back the same.
    Level the car where you’re going to work on it, you can’t move it once you start.

    I bought the LMR kit for the right side only because I thought the left didn’t need a whole rail. I was wrong, it was way worse than I could tell before taking it apart, so I had a local shop copy the one I bought as a mirror image.


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