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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member
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    Default Pan Hard Bar + Wheel Spacers (Opinions Requested)

    With my widebody finally upgraded to roller status, I can clearly see the rearend is offset to the passenger side when measured against the fiberglass fender. Tire edge to the fiberglass inner lip is 3/8" on RH side and 1" on LH side. Looks like it's about 1/2" offset if the fiberglass can be trusted as equal to each side.

    Should I measure from the inner wheel tub instead?

    I'd like to center the axle, which I believe a Pan Hard Bar could do. I'd like to drop the car an additional 1.5 - 2" eventually for a better look, which will probably take coilovers for the front and rear.

    How should I fix this? I was thinking of putting in longer ARP axle studs now because I haven't sealed up the diff cover. Run it with the longer studs until winter and then add the PHB and maybe 1/2" spacers? Maybe coilover also, but they could be in another year. The front doesn't rub anywhere currently, so I haven't made the final decision on longer studs and spacers.

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    Attachment 120186
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    '86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Default

    I measured off the control arm mount locations to center my panhard bar. I think it's more critical to locate the axle relative to the suspension points than the body.

  3. #3

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    I wouldn't trust the fenders to measure from. I haven't tried it, but have read where people with double adjustable upper and lower arms have used the arms to center the rear axle in the body. Lengthen one shorten the other, ect.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang-junky View Post
    Lengthen one shorten the other, ect.
    I'm lost at how this would correct the axle cross-car. I can see it fixing it fore-aft comparing each side to each other, throwing the thrust angle off.
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  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    I agree that having the rear axle centered in the chassis/suspension is more important than the exterior body. Besides as you have already seen, the Maier Racing body parts may not be identical side to side and that alone could be part of measurement difference.

    The Panhard Bar will allow you to center the rear axle under the car. You can always tweak the body work from there if any difference side to side is noticeable.

    I personally like the ARP extended studs, especially if you are serious about racing/autocrossing the car at some point. Also make sure to use a hubcentric spacer if you decide to add a spacer front or rear. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Another vote for measuring relative to something on the chassis rather than trusting the Maier flares to be identical.

    I dig the custom vanity plate!
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    Another vote for measuring relative to something on the chassis rather than trusting the Maier flares to be identical.

    I dig the custom vanity plate!
    I'll tinker under the car this weekend and see if I can determine how the suspension points measure up.

    I plan to apply for that exact vanity plate when register the car.
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  8. #8
    FEP Super Member
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    Default

    As others have stated, find dead-center between your rear subframe rails and align the center of your pumpkin (diff) to that line (plumb bobs work well for visual center reference). Once you have dead-center located and the diff set to actual vehicle ride height, adjust your Panhard bar to maintain that center. Or, go with a Watts Link and center it with the diff at actual ride height.
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
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