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  1. #26

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    I knew I'd get a reaction if I flamed the other 5.0. Lol. The catch can I was referring to is the oil catch can on the 5.0L Coyote cars I've seen.

    I agree on the tuning stuff. I think I have a LOT to learn about some of the aftermarket plug-in systems that are available for our cars currently. Plugs directly into the 60 pin connector, adds a USB port and a USB to ODB2 port, and is self tuning..... wow.

    Every time I see stuff crammed into a car where it doesn't actually belong I cringe because of the amount of effort and engineering it takes to create a reliable Frankenstein. Back in high school my brother's car was a 1979 Grand Prix that originally had a 3.8L Buick. We did the old 350 Buick swap. Of course we went to 73 350 and put 68 Wildcat parts into it.... because why not. Well-- we were rewarded with a toasted transmission because the one behind the V6 only had 4 clutches per pack, not 5.... Then the rearend went. Then the make-shift brackets and mounts we had to fabricate went. etc. It took about 18 months to get that car to the point you could just jump into it and drive it anywhere again.

    then there was the list of parts from the parts bins that I had to combine to actually make that stupid car work. Lose that notebook and you won't know what the hell to buy when a part fails.

    It's sorta like Street Outlaws when Farmtruck says they should go down to the parts store and say they need parts for a 1964 Gonorail. Simple right....


    Honestly even with just the parts I've changed about my 1986GT that is the main thing that irritates me about it. I miss the days of being able to simply say I need X for a 1986 Mustang GT 5.0L 5-speed with factory AC and they go get my stuff and I leave.

    Of course now as fewer and fewer four eyed foxes are having trips made to the parts store for them and more and more are finding their way to breaker yard and scrap heap its getting harder to buy parts period.

    There are so many cars that get lost in modification too. They start off with a less than 50K mile car that's nice and the next thing you know its a gutted out ratted out roller that was rattle canned. You know -- like my 1985GT Trey is working on right now. The are great then somebody rips it apart in the name of changes and doesn't complete the job. There it sits in the garage or shed. Meanwhile no kid is talking about the car they almost got to ride in.

    I keep a stash of parts on hand thats big enough to keep one four eyed fox running as daily in most situations. Without that stash there's about no way that would be possible now-a-days.

    Good luck on your swap. With careful research and planning and a solid budget I'm sure it will go well. Whatever you do, don't let a nice car get lost in modifications.

  2. #27
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    You might also want to look into the tremec 3650 with it's mod bell that'll save some money. Hanlon motorsports builds a nice one as well as the TKO's.

    BBK headers fit okay with my UPR k member and manual trans, but I did have to space the K member down an inch. BBK'S ARE NOT MADE FOR an auto swap for anyone thinking of that. They're pricey but I would use ARH headers if the funds are available.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  3. #28
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    I'd go with a TKO 500.

    Mike
    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
    My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red

  4. #29
    FEP Member Project86GT's Avatar
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    I swapped my 86 so if you have any questions just ask.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Have:
    1986 Mustang GT Coyote swapped
    1985 Mustang LX coupe
    2016 F150 Supercrew Sport 5.0

  5. #30
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Alright Mike, now your giving away all of my secrets

    As Mike mentioned, I made the decision to go with a Tremec TKO500 today, (Mike, thanks for the great deal on a brand new unit), and also picked up a mod-engine bellhousing for a good price. I contemplated upgrading the input shaft on the TKO500 to the 26 spline, but there weren't any immediately available, and I won't be pushing my torque numbers over 500 anytime soon.

    So, the reason for what some may deem as a step backwards into a 5 speed (I admit, I was looking forward to the 6 speed)..... is as follows:

    First:
    T5 (Currently in my 85, 300 ft-lbs of torque) - 3.35, 1.93, 1.34, 1.00, .68
    MT82 (2012 Mustang 6 speed, 400 ft-lbs of torque) - 3.66, 2.43, 1.69, 1.32, 1.00, .65
    T56 (Cobra 6 speed, 700 ft-lbs of torque) - 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63
    TKO500 (5 speed rated for 500ft-lbs of torque) - 3.27, 1.97, 1.34, 1.00, .68

    The over-drive ratio of the MT82 (6speed from the 2012 Mustang) is .65 versus the .68 of the TKO, and that is the same as the T5 that I am taking out of my car....and even on the T56, the overdrive is only .63. You can get some with .50 in 6th, but that seems crazy low unless you are running really short rear end gears. So, the difference seems minimal.

    Second:
    If you look at the final drive ratios, you really aren't gaining a ton by going with the 6 speed, but you will increase the number of shifts, especially in in-town driving, but the step up in money to run the T56, is significant. If I could have found a T56 setup with the bell housing, clutch and driveline for a good deal, I may have jumped on it, but it wasn't worth the extra $1000 to me, for a used trans with at least 60K miles on it, and who knows how it was treated.

    Third:
    There is still part of me that would like to run the stock MT82, as I hear its a much better shifting transmission than the Tremecs (unless you go to the T56 Magnum, but thats another $1000 at least, above the T56), they are much less notchy according to MGW. But the big factor was that I didn't want to jack with adapting over to hydraulic clutch.

    Finally:
    The TKO is matched to what our cars had in them, and with my 3.73's and the pushrod engine, I got into the rpms quicker than I wanted, but with the Coyote, I think it will cruise nicely with those ratios and can rev much higher (and more smooth) than all but the best built pushrod engines.

    Trey, thanks for the recommendations to speak with MM, in my conversation with them today, they mentioned that they have a kit coming out, that makes the Hydroboost a direct swap into a Fox Body, without drilling holes or modifications. You get the bracket, the brake pedal, and lines to the steering rack (he said something about stock 2004 Cobra hydraulic lines). But they are 6 weeks out. I will check in with them in a month and see where we are at.

    In the meantime, I found these fittings (actually, I think someone else mentioned these as being available, might have been you Trey). These will make life much easier.

    Attachment 120158

    I'll buy a used Hydroboost unit with master cylinder, then wait for MM to release their kit. Anyone know where to get the fittings for the hydroboost side? I'll have to read back through, as I think Trey may have mentioned that as well.
    Last edited by vdubn; 04-10-2018 at 06:53 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  6. #31
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Project86GT View Post
    I swapped my 86 so if you have any questions just ask.
    Very nicely done swap! .... Oh, the list of questions I have for you

    First, where did you get that coolant reservoir from? I see you are using the stock hydroboost PS reservoir, I may run that or the Canton unit.

    Did you use the Ford Performance Control Pack, if so, who did your tune for the CAI, and what CAI is that?

    Sorry for all of the questions.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  7. #32
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    My only advice is to avoid BBK parts at all costs. Terrible fitting stuff. I swear they do not ever actually test fit anything to a real live car. I believe they have CAD drawings or whatever of what a floorpan is "supposed" to be shaped like and design parts that should; theoretically, fit and off they go. I will never, ever, ever buy another BBK part. My opinion is not alone either. Do the research. Good luck on your project! I love the Coyote.
    Homer, I didn't want you to think I was ignoring your post, so I did some research specifically on BBKs fitment in the swap header world. As it turns out, they actually did better than some of the high priced options, and they have 1-3/4" primaries, which is pretty cool.

    After much deliberation and discussion with others that have done this swap, it appears as though BBK's actually fit pretty well, but do need a little massaging around the steering shaft (dent the primary tube, etc.). I spoke with a few other people that had actually spent the money on Kooks, and the American Racing headers (each of these are over $1100 for the pair, and the matching X-pipes puts your header/X-pipe combination at $1500 (YIKES!!). In the end, they said they all needed massaging.

    EDIT - I need to make a correction on my last paragraph. After a bunch of conversations with owners and installers of these Coyote engines, its important to note that the American Racing headers are the bomb. I am not sure what the one persons experience was when he said that they all need to be massaged, but I got confirmation from a number of sources that say the ARH headers are by far the best, and require no modification, as long as you get the correct headers for you K-member. I am running an AJE, which they said would be the same headers as the UPR, and if you get the headers for the MM K-member, you will definitely run into issues. Maybe that was what happened with the other gentleman I heard from. I may pony-up and get the ARH, we will see... I just have a tough time paying $1350 just for headers. I would prefer to save the money and run the BBK's, but we'll see.

    So, the people that tried the Kooks swap headers said they were terrible, way worse than the BBK, and they did say that the American Racing fit the best of all three.

    That leads me to another unfortunate compromise, running the chrome BBK swap headers. I don't want to, mostly because the chrome just doesn't hold up well, but if I have to massage/bang on the primary tubes at all, the ceramic will crack and/or flake off, so its better to stick with the chrome for the budget, and also for adaptability.
    Finally, I had LMR check the width to see if I could run the MAC Pro Chamber, with the BBK swap headers.... no such luck. So, I will be running the BBK X-Pipe, which may be a bit more raspy than I care for, but hopefully its not terrible.
    Last edited by vdubn; 04-11-2018 at 05:37 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  8. #33
    FEP Member Project86GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Very nicely done swap! .... Oh, the list of questions I have for you

    First, where did you get that coolant reservoir from? I see you are using the stock hydroboost PS reservoir, I may run that or the Canton unit.

    Did you use the Ford Performance Control Pack, if so, who did your tune for the CAI, and what CAI is that?

    Sorry for all of the questions.
    Reservior is a Moroso, for an 11-14, yes Ford control pack, comp mounted inner fender, JLT intake that requires a tune, have a LUND tune in the car.
    Have:
    1986 Mustang GT Coyote swapped
    1985 Mustang LX coupe
    2016 F150 Supercrew Sport 5.0

  9. #34
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Project86GT View Post
    Reservior is a Moroso, for an 11-14, yes Ford control pack, comp mounted inner fender, JLT intake that requires a tune, have a LUND tune in the car.
    So is the LUND tune just a hand held unit, or did you have to go get it dyno-tuned?
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  10. #35
    FEP Member Project86GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    So is the LUND tune just a hand held unit, or did you have to go get it dyno-tuned?
    Lund racing is th shop that sent me tune, you will need a tuner also to install the tune. Th few a lot of work and money involved lol
    Have:
    1986 Mustang GT Coyote swapped
    1985 Mustang LX coupe
    2016 F150 Supercrew Sport 5.0

  11. #36
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Project86GT, wiring question.... Below is a pic of the couple of wires that come through our cars firewall on the drivers side. I disconnected the old engine harness from there, and I would guess these are just no longer used, right?

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    My car is an 85, but I have all 86 wiring in it, since I converted it to EFI before deciding to do the Coyote swap.

    I am planning to pull the ECM harness as well, and unplug the harness that goes over the trans tunnel and gives power to the fuel pump. My guess is that I just wire in the Ford Control pack into the fuel pump wiring, and just eliminate all of the extra stuff like the ECM harness that comes through the passenger side of the firewall and engine harness that comes out of the drivers side.

    Part of the ECU harness goes up into the dash, so I will have to see where that harness goes.

    Just trying to figure out how much of the factory harness stays, and what is removed.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  12. #37
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    So, tout with the old.. man I feel like I was just in this spot a year ago.... Tonight a buddy and I went from fully running car, to having pulled the engine/trans, exhaust, driveshaft and half of the wiring in just 3 hours. Not too bad.

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    I did hit a bit of a snag when I was swapping out the old yoke off of my factory aluminum driveline. If you look at the following pic, I had to push the U-joint so deep so as to remove the cap, that the inside got a little galled. I plan to smooth it out, but curious if anyone else has had similar experiences, and if this looks like its salvageable?

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    Last edited by vdubn; 04-11-2018 at 02:40 AM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  13. #38

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    None of my friends would have helped me tear a working four eyed fox apart like that. Now youíre a bit more committed.

    this looks to me like more of a winter project but who knows with how fast it came apart.

    Yeh your friend...... prank him and tell him you changed your mind and ask how the hell to put the stuff back that he ripped off. Lol


    driveshaft should be fine with a little cleanup.

  14. #39
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Whats funny, is my buddy was saying, right when we finished... "Lets see how fast we can put it back together and get it running"... he's a little crazy like that.

    My plan is to have this running by the end of June, we will see though, as there are back orders on a few of the common things, so my timeline may not be reasonable, but that is the goal today.

    Thanks on the driveshaft, just wasn't sure. Frankly I am surprised that the aluminum driveshafts can handle the torque these engines produce. Anyone know the torque limit of these driveshafts?
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  15. #40
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    You shouldn't have to ding any of the BBK tubes to clear if you're using a TKO. The BBK ceramic is a total waist of money anyway. I'd mock it up and then have the headers coated, by a more reputable plating comapany.

    If you go power steering look into the electric Volvo PS pump. It's suppose to use the same fittings as the hydroboost etc.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  16. #41
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STL79Coupe View Post
    You shouldn't have to ding any of the BBK tubes to clear if you're using a TKO. The BBK ceramic is a total waist of money anyway. I'd mock it up and then have the headers coated, by a more reputable plating comapany.

    If you go power steering look into the electric Volvo PS pump. It's suppose to use the same fittings as the hydroboost etc.
    I saw someone mention the Volvo PS pump. How does it mount? Does someone make a bracket kit for it?

    That is good news on the fitment of the BBK's. As awesome as the ARH headers look, I am having a tough time paying $1350 for just the headers, and another $400 for the X-pipe. Both the BBK and ARH are all 1-3/4" Primaries, so both should perform similarly.

    Good idea on the fitting and recoating. I have a good ceramic coating place out here by me.
    Last edited by vdubn; 04-11-2018 at 05:36 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  17. #42
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    I saw someone mention the Volvo PS pump. How does it mount? Does someone make a bracket kit for it?

    That is good news on the fitment of the BBK's. As awesome as the ARH headers look, I am having a tough time paying $1350 for just the headers, and another $400 for the X-pipe. Both the BBK and ARH are all 1-3/4" Primaries, so both should perform similarly.

    Good idea on the fitting and recoating. I have a good ceramic coating place out here by me.
    I'll getthe ARH headers eventually because they do make a lot more power. As for the volvo pump I can't say about the mounting. Are you on facebook? if yes go to the Coyote swapped foxbodys page. They talk about it on there. If you plan on doing the coating ask to see if you can get them bare so it saves money from having to strip them.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  18. #43
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    After a bunch of research, and talking to a bunch of transmission vendors, people who've done these swaps, shifter companies, etc. I have finally made a decision on a transmission. The following is the data I collected that ultimately led me to my final decision, and hopefully will help others see the differences and options in each of the manual transmissions available for the Coyote swap:

    I feel like I explored a million options this week, and have vacillated between all of the following manual transmission options available for our swaps. I didn't look at the automatic options at all.

    - MT82 (this is the stock 6 speed behind the Coyote engine)... After a good conversation with the guys at MGW about running the MT82 transmission, they said that the MT82 is one of the smoothest shifting transmissions available (as long as you replace the stock shifter, which you need to do to install it into a Fox Body) and they said that the MT82 actually shifts better than most of the Tremec transmissions including the 2003/04 Cobra T56, especially at high RPM. All of the Tremecs will work behind the Coyote, but based on the following info you can see why most aren't optimal.

    - TKO500/600 have shifting issues above 6k-6.5k rpms, and prices are all over $2000 for used units, and around $2200 to $2500 new, all new ones without bellhousings. With the Coyote's ability to rev to 7k (and a lot of people are revving them up to 7700 pretty easily) that leaves a lot on the table if you have to shift at 6k rpm. To better define what they mean by "not shifting", the transmission literally prevents the shift until the rpms drop a little... that would be pretty frustrating.

    - The 2003/04 Cobra T56 transmission is HP limited in stock form to about 400 hp (this from some long conversations with AMP Performance in Arizona who are Tremec Elite dealers). They really discourage running the factory T56 behind the Coyote unless you know its history, and you do a number of upgrades internally. Additionally, these sell for over $2500 (sometimes even without a bellhousing with varying amounts of mileage and unknown histories).

    - Tremec 3650 5 speed (found in the Mach 1 and other New Edge Mustangs), and any of the factory 5 speeds really, are torque limited to approximately at or below what the Coyote engine makes out of the box, and they have the same shift issue at higher RPMs as the TKO transmissions.

    - Tremec TR6060 (2011 to 2014 GT 500). This is basically a T565 Magnum, but has the same remote shifter as the MT82. Interestingly enough, for such a high end trans, it had similar complaints about shifting, that were all due to the factory shifter design. Just like the MT82, this trans is an excellent transmission once you replace the stock shifter.

    - Tremec Magnum T56 is an awesome swap (its what I ultimately decided to go with), but they start at $3000 just for the transmission, plus you need the bellhousing, driveshaft, etc., etc.
    AND IF you find one used, they are minimum $2500 with mileage.

    So, for the Coyote, I determined that the the best two options were either the MT82, or the T56 Magnum. They are at two ends of the cost spectrum, but for me, I decided on the Magnum because I didn't want to mess with fabbing up a hydraulic clutch setup. Just my personal preference.

    A lot of people run the 3650, and even the T5 behind the Coyote, but if they ever hook up at all, its almost certain death for those transmissions.

    The pic below is the setup I chose from AMP Performance, and I would recommend working with these guys, they answered a ton of questions I had, and they have a lot of experience not only with the Tremec, but specifically with the Coyote swap.

    The T56 Magnum is rated at 700 ft-lbs of torque, but there are many reports of people running over 1000 hp, and they are holding the power well. The ratio package I chose is as follows:

    1st - 2.66
    2nd - 1.78
    3rd - 1.30
    4th - 1.00
    5th - .80
    6th - .63

    Should cruise at 70 at about 2200 rpm with my 3.73 rear end. It was more than I wanted to spend, but I didn't want to have to upgrade later if I chose to supercharge the car. Should have the parts next week, pretty stoked.

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    Last edited by vdubn; 04-14-2018 at 10:23 AM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  19. #44
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Really the only two trannys that will live is the Gforce 101 or the T56 mag. Oh the Jerico also, but they're all 4 speeds except the T56
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  20. #45
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    I have made some progress on the build, mostly just that stuff showed up today from UPS, but I have made a couple project changes based on some research. Here are the main things I found from research, and have incorporated into the build.

    - 2018+ Intake manifold - A number of people have been finding great results from running the 2018 Intake manifold on the Gen1 Coyote engines. They are seeing about +41 HP on dyno runs, and some bump in Torque as well (can't remember the number), but most of the additional power comes from about 6000 and peaks at 7100 rpm. A couple places are running specials on these for under $300 brand new, so I ordered one. The only things needed to run this are the MMR CMCV runner control lockouts, and a little trimming around the thermostat housing, super easy. Here is a pic:

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    - Next, I had been doing a bunch of research on the oil pump gear issue that these Coyote motors are notorious for. The factory oil pump gear and crankshaft gear are made of powdered steel, and especially if these engines are spun up past 7000, these can shatter or break into pieces. Motor is toast if that happens. Well, due to the 2018 intake running so well at the higher rpms, it seemed like a good idea to do this now while the engine is out. MMR also recommended their Cool Head modification, so I opted for that as well:

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    - For the actual oil pump gears and crank gear, I opted for the Boundary Gear Kit. There are a bunch of these on the market, and these guys and MMR seemed to have excellent reputations, and the Boundary gears were about $200 less than MMR gears, so I went with them.

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    - Starters - I had read that the stock Gen 1 starter had clearance issues with most of the headers, so after a bunch of research, I ordered a 2004 factory starter from a New Edge car, and its a mini-starter, which fits better, and makes starter service and removal easier down the road. Here is a comparison between the two. The 2004 starter is on the bottom, and as you can see is smaller, and shorter. The later model unit has not shroud over the bendix, but that doesn't matter. I will be sticking with the 2004 starter.

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  21. #46
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    So, I got the complete transmission swap today from AMP Performance, they did a great job packaging everything, and it arrived and looks great. The following showed up:

    - T56 Magnum
    - Quick Time Bellhousing
    - Stifflers Rear X-member
    - Stifflers Driveshaft Loop (still not sure if this will fit without interference with the MM Torque Arm)
    - RAM DF Clutch Kit
    - BBK Headers and X-Pipe
    - Dakota VHX Gauge Cluster
    - SVE Alternator Kit
    - HydroBoost Pump and Master Cylinder
    - 2007 Power Steering Pump
    - 2004 Starter

    Parts still waiting on
    - Ford Racing Control Pack (I actually found one today, after finding out that Ford has possibly stopped making these. I got a good deal on a slightly used one, that should be here next week). Good news is that the used one already has a tune on it, so I may be up and running from the start with a decent tune.
    - Oil Pump Gears and Crankshaft lower gear
    - JLT Oil Breather Kit
    - MMR Cool Head Kit
    - MMR CMCV runner control lockouts
    - 2018 Intake Manifold
    - Stock Injectors (my engine came with big injectors since he was running an SC)
    - SN95 Sway Bar Brackets - Lowers the Sway Bar by an inch, which helps clear the oil filter
    - Canton PS Reservoir
    - Factory Ford heater hoses
    - Aluminum Driveshaft

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  22. #47
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    I also got a cool tool to help lift the engine into the car. I see a lot of people get the plates that can be bolted to the valley area between the heads, but it obviously requires that you remove the intake. Well, I found these bars that bolt to the factory service bosses, and allow you to hoist the engine into the car with the complete engine assembled. Pretty cool.

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  23. #48
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Very cool project and I am very envious yours is coming together much better and faster than mine!

    Can't wait to see how it all comes together.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  24. #49
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    If you want to save a couple bucks you can use wire on the 18 intake lockouts to keep them open.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  25. #50
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    True true... or even zip ties. I had to make an order with MRR, so I went ahead and grabbed the bars to make it clean (even though no one will see them).

    Does anyone have any experience timing these DOHC engines? Iíve done timing belts and chains on a number of engines, but havenít messed with these. Iím hoping I can set the engine to TDC on cylinder #1, mark all chains and gears, then remove the chain tensioners to create slack in the chains Hopefully this will give me Enough room to pull the crank gear and oil pump, and reassemble as it was. The tensioners May be tough to compress, but hopefully I can sneak the gear and pump out without disrupting any of the timing. Does that seem like a reasonable plan, or am I missing something? I know the pan has to come off, then the timing cover, but hopefully not much more is in the way.
    Last edited by vdubn; 04-22-2018 at 12:40 AM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

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