Close



Page 1 of 6 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 146
  1. #1
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default Diving In: Coyote GT500 Swap into 1985 GT

    I know its been done before, so I'm not breaking new ground, but I came across a deal I couldn't pass up yesterday, and picked up this 2012 swap with 42k miles on it:

    Name:  IMG_0642.jpg
Views: 865
Size:  64.5 KB

    Edit - 4/16/18 - After a couple weeks of working through a bunch of options, and deciding not to fab up the hydraulic clutch stuff, I have decided not to run the factory MT82 6 speed transmission. It is still a great option, but I didn't want to mess with mounting a clutch master cylinder to the firewall, and fabbing up the connection to the pedal. For those that are willing to do the hydraulic fab work, you will need to run a shifter like the MGW race shifter (they have a short version that brings the shifter back into the Fox Body opening in the tunnel, so you should be able to still run your factory center console if you want). Give the guys at MGW a call, they are super helpful.

    https://www.mgwshifters.com/shifters/mustangs/79

    I don't have to switch out to a full electronic instrument cluster, but I decided that I really like the Dakota VHX instrument cluster, and will be running the one with red lighting to get a similar match to the red dash that came factory. This will allow the speedo to work off of the VSS, and give me tach, coolant temp, oil pressure, etc.

    I found a place that can remove the PATS (theft deterrent) form the ECU, but not sure how to handle the wiring. After much more research, it looks like the Ford Control Pack is THE way to go, so I have ordered one (they are on back order nationally, so it looks like it will be a couple of weeks before it arrives).

    In terms of mounting, I am running an AJE sub-frame, so thankfully AJE makes bolt in engine mounts. I decided on running a T56 Magnum 6 speed, and Stifflers makes a nice rear trans cross member for about $150, so I will be running that, along with the Stifflers rear driveline loop which is about $135, so that should get it installed into the car.

    I have decided that I want to run power brakes and power steering, so I will be documenting the swap over to a 1996 to 2004 hydroboost setup. I also decided to run the Power By The Hour bracket kit, which will allow me to run 1996 to 2010 accessories (power steering pump and alternator). I opted for the LMR SVE Alternator kit, which is about $170, is brand new, and comes with a lifetime guarantee. Even my local Napa couldn't come close to that deal. As for power steering, I bought a used Hydroboost pump, and a power steering pump from a 1997 Mustang (mostly to get the pulley). I also grabbed some adapter fittings from LMR, that adapt the rack fittings for my 1993 Cobra rack, to AN fittings. Still need a couple fittings for the Hydroboost pump, and the hoses, but should be good to go after that.

    Maximum Motorsports said that they are looking to release their Hydroboost mount kit in the next month or so, which I'd love to run. Looks like the kit will include the mounting plate for the firewall, and a replacement brake pedal so that I can still run the stock Fox Body pedal cluster.
    Last edited by vdubn; 05-22-2018 at 11:38 AM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  2. #2
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Exhaust:

    It looks like the factory headers won't work, so I will probably run the BBK Coyote Swap headers. A question I have is if anyone knows if the BBK ball sockets on the end of the long tube headers will match up ok to a MAC Pro Chamber? If not, I will need to run the BBK X-pipe, but I would prefer to run the MAC PC.

    Let me know if anyone knows if I can interchange and mount the MAC stuff to BBK.

    Also, I would prefer to run Ceramic coated headers, but they are $750, versus the Chrome ones that are $550. Any opinions on them either way?

    Edit - 4/10/18 - After much deliberation and discussion with others that have done this swap, it appears as though BBK's actually fit pretty well, but do need a little massaging around the steering shaft (dent the primary tube, etc.). I spoke with a few other people that had actually spent the money on Kooks, and the American Racing headers (each of these are over $1100 for the pair, and the matching X-pipes puts your header/X-pipe combination at $1500 (YIKES!!).

    So, the people that tried the Kooks swap headers said they were terrible, way worse than the BBK, and they did say that the American Racing fit the best of all three.

    That leads me to another unfortunate compromise, running the chrome BBK swap headers. I don't want to, mostly because the chrome just doesn't hold up well, but if I have to massage/bang on the primary tubes at all, the ceramic will crack and/or flake off, so its better to stick with the chrome for the budget, and also for adaptability.

    Edit - 6/27/18 - I found out that the BBK headers fit very nicely, everywhere, including the steering shaft. The only interference is with the QuickTime bellhousing, right at the starter snout. I clearanced/dented-with-a-socket the headers at the bellhousing, but may need to actually machine a tiny bit off of the snout, if I get some erroneous knock sensor readings from the header being in very slight contact with the bellhousing. We will see.
    Last edited by vdubn; 06-27-2018 at 05:39 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  3. #3
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Wiring
    This post will cover wiring. Trying to do these posts before anyone responds, so that down the road, most of the details can still be found without going through every conversation in the thread. We'll see if its actually helpful.

    Found a gentleman on Facebook that will disable the PATS system for $200, but I'm not sure how the gas pedal is affected by that. I think that the gas pedal needs to be programmed into the ECU, and that is one thing I wasn't able to get with the swap parts.

    Edit - AS it turns out, I think that the Ford Racing Control Pack is probably the best/easiest option even though its about $1500. Getting the PATS disabled is only a first step, getting a gas pedal linked, and then modifying the harness, adding in appropriate relays, etc.

    Here is the control pack, Summit appears to have the best price on it:
    Name:  FordPowerPack.jpg
Views: 791
Size:  45.9 KB

    As for the instrument cluster, I think that I will run the Dakota electronic cluster, since I run Dakota's electronics for the dual fan controls, etc. It looks like a nice unit, and allows the use of the electronic VSS, and looks nice with the lights on.
    Name:  dakota-cluster.jpg
Views: 794
Size:  26.6 KB

    Name:  dakota-cluster1.jpg
Views: 788
Size:  54.0 KB

    Here is the New Vintage version as well, which is a bit cheaper, both seem pretty nice, but I think this set requires a speed generator in the tailshaft of the transmission, and I think the MT82 has its on VSS, so I need to check with them and see if they can function of the VSS, or if they have to use their own VSS generator:
    Name:  newvintagecluster-perf.jpg
Views: 785
Size:  66.7 KB
    Last edited by vdubn; 04-08-2018 at 11:09 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  4. #4
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    TRANSMISSION MOUNTING AND DRIVESHAFT

    Well, I have gone through a million options this week, and have vacillated between all of the transmission options available for our swaps.

    Here is the information that I have gathered through many conversations with multiple transmission and shifter vendors:

    I had a good conversation with the guys at MGW about running the MT82 transmission (this is the stock 6 speed behind the Coyote engine), and they said that the MT82 is one of the smoothest shifting transmissions available (as long as you replace the stock shifter) and they said that the MT82 actually shifts better than most of the Tremec transmissions including the 2003/04 Cobra T56, especially at high RPM. All of the Tremecs, other than the T56 Magnum, really aren't the best option for running behind the Coyote.

    Here's why:

    - TKO500/600 have shifting issues above 6k-6.5k rpms, and prices are all over $2000 for used units, sometimes without bellhousings. With the Coyote's ability to rev to 7k (and a lot of people are revving them up to 7700 pretty easily) that leaves a lot on the table if you have to shift at 6k rpm.
    - Cobra T56 is HP limited in stock form to about 400 hp (this from some long conversations with AMP Performance in Arizona who are Tremec Elite dealers. They really discourage running the factory T56 behind the Coyote unless you know its history, and you do a number of upgrades internally. Additionally, these sell for over $2500 (sometimes even without a bellhousing with varying amounts of mileage and unknown histories).
    - Tremec 3650 5 speed (and any of the factory 5 speeds really) are torque limited to approximately at or below what the Coyote engine makes out of the box, and they have the same shift issue at higher RPMs
    - Tremec Magnum T56 is an awesome swap (its what I ultimately decided to go with), but they start at $3000 just for the transmission, plus you need the bellhousing, driveshaft, etc., etc. AND IF you find one used, they are minimum $2500 with mileage.

    So, the MT82 is a really good option, as long as you get a good shifter. They shift perfectly past the limits of the Coyote, the ratios are well matched, they can handle up to 500 ft-lbs of torque, and they are inexpensive (less than $1000 in the market).


    The pic below is the setup I chose from AMP Performance, and I would have stuck with the MT82, except I wanted the ease of using the std clutch cable instead of fabbing up a hydraulic clutch master cylinder.

    Name:  T56Magnum.jpg
Views: 639
Size:  85.8 KB
    Last edited by vdubn; 04-13-2018 at 10:28 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  5. #5
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Accessory brackets

    Ok, so it seems as though I can get the Boss 302 Alternator kit to mount the alternator (https://lmr.com/item/M8600M50BALT/Fo...it-M-8600-M50B)

    And this bracket to mount the power steering pump where the A/C compressor goes, and then I think I'm set.

    Name:  powersteeringpumpbracket.jpg
Views: 781
Size:  28.1 KB

    Some folks actually run the following bracket kit, but I think its only necessary when you want A/C, but if someone could verify for me, that would be awesome:

    https://lmr.com/item/SVE-8511D/coyot...-mustang-11-16

    Edit - 6/27/18 - As it turned out, I went with the Power By The Hour bracket kit, as it had the best support, used the std Coyote alternator, and works with the Department of Boost GT550 Supercharger setup I ultimately went with. One thing worth noting in my situation, is that I needed to space down my K-member to provide clearance between the power steering pump bracket, and the sway bar. If I had to do it all again, I would look at running the 2006-2014 Volvo C70,C60 electronic PS Pump setup. Its less expensive than the PBH PS brackets, and it clears some space around the sway bar.
    Last edited by vdubn; 06-27-2018 at 05:46 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  6. #6
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Steering and Brakes

    I was able to have a conversation with MM today, and they mentioned that they have a kit coming out, that makes the Hydroboost a direct swap into a Fox Body, without drilling holes. You get the bracket, the brake pedal, and lines to the steering rack. But they are 6 weeks out. I will check in with them in a month and see where we are at.

    In the meantime, I found these fittings (actually, I think someone else mentioned these as being available, might have been you Trey). These will make life much easier.

    Name:  HydroBoostFittings.jpg
Views: 688
Size:  12.9 KB

    I'll buy a used Hydroboost unit with master cylinder, then wait for MM to release their kit.
    Last edited by vdubn; 04-10-2018 at 05:47 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  7. #7

    Default

    To each their own, but personally you couldn’t pay me to do this to a Four Eyed Fox. I’d sell it and buy a Mustang with a modern 5.0 in it first.

    A well built 363 or big bore 347 — especially with some boost — will drag a coyote 5.0 down the track sideways and do so for about 1/2 the money. It will last way longer too.

    There are also factors like reliability. You won’t ever find a coyote motor with 1/2 million miles still running. They simply aren’t engineered for the long haul on key things like ring package. I mean a catch can?! Come one, like seriously!

    Anyway— just sayin.

    it wouldn’t be friendly to not give you a little crap!

  8. #8
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Totally understand your position... LOL, I know I can depend on you for an honest opinion on any mods... and I appreciate it.

    As for longevity, the verdict is still out, since the engine platform is only 7 years old. Many have said the same about the EcoBoost, and its been showing amazing longevity as well as power/cubic inch.

    My reason is one of tuneability and upgrade options. The OBD1 platform doesn't have a lot of options in terms of tuning, at least in my area. Being able to run 410 hp in stock form, add a tuner, scan with a std scan tool, and be able to drive it as a daily on pump gas without messing with stuff, are all things that can't be done with any of the stroker engines running stock Ford EFI (unless you set them up with stand-alone, etc.). Granted, much power and reliability can be had with the strokers, even with turbos and superchargers, but a lot of time is required whenever any changes are made, and sometimes if altitude or weather changes.

    Explain the catch can reference. Not sure what you are referring to.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,764

    Default

    Although James (Erratic50) and I agree on many things, I don't share his opinion of the Coyote setup.

    If I didn't have the 5.4 DOHC Navigator taking up space in my garage, I would have done a Coyote Swap for my 82 GT.

    Love the SBF 302 and 351W, but I do love the 5.0 Coyote and the 5.4 DOHC Mod motors. The power they can generate, the smoothness, and the upper RPM range is addictive IMHO. Yes, they do require a ton of work to fit in the Fox, but luckily most of the hard parts have been taken care of by the aftermarket. I do believe the added size of the 5.4 DOHC is a major PITA compared to even the 5.0 Coyote.

    With all that said, I will be interested to see how the MT82 fits and works in your FOX. I know most just go with a good Tremec rather than use the original 6 speed. I am using a Tremec 3650 5 speed for mine due to costs and a deal I couldn't pass up. I know it will not be strong enough long term, but I would like to get the GT on the road to work out the bugs and can add a T56 later.

    I am sure you can modify the stock wiring and make it work, although I believe the FRPP kit is a much easier and simple way but costly.

    I know LMR has many of the Coyote swap parts. Here is another option if you haven't seen them yet. https://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/

    As for PS pump, I believe one from the 03/04 Cobra or even any of the 05-10 Mustangs should work fine.

    I personally prefer some type of power assist for a street car. If it's just a weekend car that doesn't see a lot of miles, then manual brakes can be just fine. I did the 96-98 Cobra Hydroboost swap on my GT. I had to move the whole setup over towards the outside of the car @ 1" to clear my 5.4 DOHC valve cover with no K member spacers and stock mounts. The Coyote won't require that work, but you will need to modify the pedal assembly to match up to the booster unit. Feel free to PM me and we can go into more detail. You can also look at my 82 GT thread and see some of the work I did. http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-begun!/page13 The Brakes start around Post #309
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    4,084

    Default

    Sounds like a lot of work but since I have no problem watching other people work and spend money, I'll be interested in seeing this project move along. Be sure to post lots of pics, we all love project pics.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    A well built 363 or big bore 347 — especially with some boost — will drag a coyote 5.0 down the track sideways and do so for about 1/2 the money. It will last way longer too.
    Nope.

  12. #12

    Default

    As long as you don't have a CEL when you are done, all power to you.

  13. #13
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Although James (Erratic50) and I agree on many things, I don't share his opinion of the Coyote setup.

    If I didn't have the 5.4 DOHC Navigator taking up space in my garage, I would have done a Coyote Swap for my 82 GT.

    Love the SBF 302 and 351W, but I do love the 5.0 Coyote and the 5.4 DOHC Mod motors. The power they can generate, the smoothness, and the upper RPM range is addictive IMHO. Yes, they do require a ton of work to fit in the Fox, but luckily most of the hard parts have been taken care of by the aftermarket. I do believe the added size of the 5.4 DOHC is a major PITA compared to even the 5.0 Coyote.

    With all that said, I will be interested to see how the MT82 fits and works in your FOX. I know most just go with a good Tremec rather than use the original 6 speed. I am using a Tremec 3650 5 speed for mine due to costs and a deal I couldn't pass up. I know it will not be strong enough long term, but I would like to get the GT on the road to work out the bugs and can add a T56 later.

    I am sure you can modify the stock wiring and make it work, although I believe the FRPP kit is a much easier and simple way but costly.

    I know LMR has many of the Coyote swap parts. Here is another option if you haven't seen them yet. https://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/
    I have seen them, they have some nice products, but are a bit higher priced than American Muscle and LMR that seem to have everything.

    As for PS pump, I believe one from the 03/04 Cobra or even any of the 05-10 Mustangs should work fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I personally prefer some type of power assist for a street car. If it's just a weekend car that doesn't see a lot of miles, then manual brakes can be just fine. I did the 96-98 Cobra Hydroboost swap on my GT. I had to move the whole setup over towards the outside of the car @ 1" to clear my 5.4 DOHC valve cover with no K member spacers and stock mounts. The Coyote won't require that work, but you will need to modify the pedal assembly to match up to the booster unit. Feel free to PM me and we can go into more detail. You can also look at my 82 GT thread and see some of the work I did. http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-begun!/page13 The Brakes start around Post #309
    Trey, I would love to chat with you more about the Hydroboost swap, as I think in the end, I would like to do that. My concern is which power steering pump to run. It looks like the following bracket that American Muscle and LMR sells, will adapt to allow a 2005 to 2010 4.6L PS pump in the A/C compressor location (which is fine for me, as I am not running A/C. What I wondered though, is if the hydroboost hoses will bolt right up to the Fiox Body steering rack? Also, where do folks typically mount the reservoir?

    Name:  powersteeringpumpbracket.jpg
Views: 769
Size:  28.1 KB
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,764

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Trey, I would love to chat with you more about the Hydroboost swap, as I think in the end, I would like to do that. My concern is which power steering pump to run. It looks like the following bracket that American Muscle and LMR sells, will adapt to allow a 2005 to 2010 4.6L PS pump in the A/C compressor location (which is fine for me, as I am not running A/C. What I wondered though, is if the hydroboost hoses will bolt right up to the Fiox Body steering rack? Also, where do folks typically mount the reservoir?
    I have not looked into the PS pump bracket much since my 5.4DOHC has provisions to mount a PS pump and should work just fine with a 03/04 Cobra pump that will match up with my 03/04 Cobra R&P.

    Most installs that I have seen appear to mount the PS reservoir on the same side as the pump on or near the strut tower. As for hoses/lines, I am sure you will need to have custom lines run. As for the rack fittings, they are the same size for all Ford units from 79-2004, so there shouldn't be any issues there. You can use fittings such as this http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...004-P1001.aspx to run custom braided lines which is my plan with my build. The rest of the hydro boost fittings are available too so you can make your own lines or have some made at your local hydraulic shop if needed.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  15. #15
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Perfect... do I need anything besides the hydroboost unit from a 1996 to 2004 car? I think I can use my cobra master cylinder on the end of the hydroboost pump, right? Can I still use my pedal assembly out of the 85?
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  16. #16
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,764

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Perfect... do I need anything besides the hydroboost unit from a 1996 to 2004 car? I think I can use my cobra master cylinder on the end of the hydroboost pump, right? Can I still use my pedal assembly out of the 85?
    You will want to match the hydro boost to your brake setup. I don't recall what setup you are running.

    No you can't use your Cobra M/C without an adapter as the mounting bolts for the Hydro units are top and bottom rather than on the sides for the Vacuum Boosters.

    You can use your pedal assembly, but you will need to modify the brake pedal pivot point to match the Hydro boost unit. It's not complicated, but you do want to get that right otherwise the setup will not work properly.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  17. #17
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,764

    Default

    If you don't want to do all the modifications yourself and you want to retain your M/C you might want to consider something like this.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-79-93-F...AAAOxyx0JTghyN
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  18. #18
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Wow, that looks awesome. That motor sure is tight in there, isn’t it? I found this, does it look like everything I need for the hydroboost swap (besides the hydraulic lines?

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F222754339596

    I noticed that the prop valve is different. Can I use my Fox Body gutted prop valve still?

    Can you describe what needs to be modified on the brake pedal?
    Last edited by vdubn; 04-09-2018 at 08:34 AM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  19. #19

    Default

    Good luck, I'll be followng your progress. I originally bought my '83 with the intention of coyote-swapping but I fell in love with its old school character so I'll be staying pushrod with that one. I grew up on high revving, twin cam engines and as a kid I always wanted to do a 281-4v swap into a fox. My next fox will be getting a coyote.
    -Randy
    '83 Mustang GL notchback - 3.8 C5
    '92 Mustang LX hatchback - 2.3 T5 (2.3t soon)

  20. #20
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    I just updated the first 4 posts with pics and some more details based upon research I've done.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  21. #21
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    St. louis MO
    Posts
    2,343

    Default

    To much work! LOL I went the easy way and run all manual steering, brakes, no HVAC etc. My only advice is if you do use the control pack order it today. The Gen 1 control pack has been on back order for months and won't be available until May if not later. The Gen 2 CP is slow, but not on BO as far as I know.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  22. #22

    Default

    My only advice is to avoid BBK parts at all costs. Terrible fitting stuff. I swear they do not ever actually test fit anything to a real live car. I believe they have CAD drawings or whatever of what a floorpan is "supposed" to be shaped like and design parts that should; theoretically, fit and off they go. I will never, ever, ever buy another BBK part. My opinion is not alone either. Do the research. Good luck on your project! I love the Coyote.

  23. #23
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,764

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Wow, that looks awesome. That motor sure is tight in there, isn’t it? I found this, does it look like everything I need for the hydroboost swap (besides the hydraulic lines?

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F222754339596

    I noticed that the prop valve is different. Can I use my Fox Body gutted prop valve still?

    Can you describe what needs to be modified on the brake pedal?
    It has everything, but again it will require modifications to mate up to a Fox firewall and pedal box. I would recommend sending a PM to Jack Hidley of Maximum Motorsports. He helped me with my setup in the 82 GT. I used a 96-98 Cobra unit which is different than the 96-98 GT unit and both are different than the 99-04 units. I had to move the hydro boost unit up @ 3/4" IIRC on the firewall relative to the original booster/MC location. You will need to move the unit up a similar amount most likely and this is due to the difference in the pedal ratios between the Fox and the SN95 cars.

    Bottom line is to do the swap right it is not a simple bolt in. If you are up for doing the work and the modifications, it's well worth the trouble. Otherwise you might consider the one I linked to before or going the manual brake route. I believe I put most of the details in my build thread as to what I had to do in order to make it work on my GT, but again I was using a 96-98 Cobra unit.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  24. #24

    Default

    That MT82 might last longer than you think, a fox mustang is quite a bit lighter than newer mustangs. I would do the coyote swap in a heartbeat, well if I had the time and money. I have a friend with one in a 1963 ranchero. Awesome power, mileage, excellent drivability, it's a great combo.

    Subscribing.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  25. #25
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Trey, thanks for that, I will definitely read up on your build thread, and reach out to Jack Hidley.

    I'm now vacillating between the MT82 and running a TKO500/600 trans. I kept my Aluminum driveshaft, and the TKO setup would allow me to still run a clutch cable versus hydraulic clutch, and just swapping out the yoke to a 31 spline yoke. The cost is actually within $300 after I sell the MT82, and simplify by not having to buy a custom driveshaft, install hydraulic clutch master (kits are like $500 and $600 and don't appear to be easy to install and/or setup), and I wouldn't have to buy a $490 shifter, and a cross-member thats $100 more than all other crossmembers.

    Now, the pro's for the MT82, is that many folks say its less notchier than the Tremec boxes, and some have said that the Tremecs don't shift well above about 6500 to 7000 rpm.

    If there was a simple way to address the clutch master cylinder mounting and connecting the pushrod to the clutch pedal, then I would consider the MT82 a bit more than the others.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

Page 1 of 6 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •