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  1. #101
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    I also got a chance to get the radiator hoses connected. Ran into an issue trying to run the Coyote swap hose that LMR sold me, as it clearly wouldn't work with the Power By The Hour power steering pump relocate. Here is how it looked when I did a test fit

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    As you can see here, the pump pulley was in direct contact with the LMR hose.
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    So, I got some good advice that the factory 2012 Mustang lower hose would work with some trimming. I got it today, and it fits perfect without any trimming. More than an inch of clearance between the PS pulley and the lower hose. Its worth mentioning that the hose is on upside down, but works perfectly.

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    Last edited by vdubn; 06-12-2018 at 11:02 AM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  2. #102
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    I ran into an issue with the Dept of Boost idler pulley bracket, as referenced above. After a week or so, I finally got the Roush FEAD bracket that is used in most of the VMP SC kits, and after modifying it, I got it installed with the dual idlers, and it fits perfectly!

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    Finally, I was able to do a test fit of the front bumper. I had to clearance a tiny bit for the HE coolant pump on the back side of the lower section of the bumper. Its all hidden nicely behind the bumper so you can't really see it, unless you look for it. I am hoping that the heat exchanger will get decent airflow, as its right behind the bumper support, but worst case I will see if I can fab up an air deflector or something similar to divert air up into the HE.

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    Should have my pedals back this weekend, and then I will be able to install the pedals and steering column... tomorrow the fuel rails show up, so if I can get those installed, then the Supercharger can get installed, and keep plugging away at the small work. Wiring is coming along as well, but I'll wait and do most of that after all of the equipment is installed.
    Last edited by vdubn; 06-12-2018 at 12:07 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  3. #103
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Made some more good progress this weekend. Started with my pedals. I had picked up a set of pedals out of a 2000 Mustang, brake and clutch, and took them to a friend who is much better at the finer/detailed welding skills, and had him transfer the clutch pedal pad from the 2000 Mustang over to my 1985 clutch arm, and then had him transfer the brake pedal pad from the 2000 Mustang, onto the Maximum Motorsports Hydroboost brake pedal arm. This allowed me to use the late model aluminum pedal covers that match the Coyote Swap, drive-by-wire gas pedal. Small detail, but if I didn't do it, I would have literally had three completely different pedals, and I thought wouldn't look right. I'm happy with how these turned out.

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    I also was able to get the vinyl mesh wrap on my heat exchanger hoses, and on the passenger side heater hose. The drivers side is all ready to install, but I need to add clamps. I have been using the crimp-on style to kind of hide a couple of the unions I've used to make the hoses fit like factory would look, but I can't seem to find hose clamps that fit the OD of the 5/8" heater hose. I found warsbo plumbing clamps for the 3/4", but no luck on the 5/8". Does anyone have any recommendations for a low profile clamp, other than the worm-drive style that are pretty bulky?

    Here is what the Heat Exchanger hoses look like after covering them:
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    Here is the passenger side heater hose. Turned out really good.
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    I also got the alternator main battery connector wired up, with a nice stud cover.
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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  4. #104
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    The 4 gauge wire coming from the terminal in the firewall, will travel along with the main Ford Racing Control Pack harness, right above where the header is, on the passenger side. I also added heat reflective tape onto the carbon fiber inner fender apron on the passenger side, to keep it from distorting from the header heat, you may be able to see it here as well:
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    I will be using this heat reflective wrap, and wrapping both the harness and the alt wire, to protect it from the header heat that will radiate up between the head and the inner apron:
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    The last few things I was able to sort out, were getting the intake manifold completely installed, setting up the fuel rails, and installing the supercharger pulley. As you can see, the pulleys line up perfectly.
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    The fuel rails turned out perfect as well, I needed to have one of the AN fittings be a 45 degree instead of a 90, so I ordered that, and will have them today. These fuel rails make it super easy to get to the lower bolt that holds the supercharger elbow to the supercharger. Apparently with the stock Coyote fuel rail, its really tough to get to the lower bolts.
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    I was assembling the Fragola 8000 push-lok hose by hand this week, and had to heat up the hose to get the fittings installed. Well, the 8 AN stuff goes on pretty easy if you heat the hose good, but the 6 AN stuff it next to impossible, especially if its not a straight fitting. The 45 degree fittings at the fuel tank were impossible to install. So, I came across a good deal on the Koul Tool AN fitting installation press. I should have it in just a couple days, and am looking forward to building all of my lines in just a matter of minutes. Here is a pic of the vice, works awesome, and can even install the fittings dry, literally takes just minutes to install. According to the folks at Koul, the Fragola 8000 push-lok hose it the toughest to work with, and they confirmed that a vice is really needed, especially for 6 AN and smaller sizes.
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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  5. #105
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Had to post this, as a bit of a teaser for a Supercharged Coyote setup. Its not in a Fox Body, but you get the idea...

    https://www.facebook.com/jeremy.hung...8450907169610/
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  6. #106
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    I was able to get my fuel supply and return lines run to the front of the car, mounted the fuel tank with the Walbro 450 Lph pump, and got all of my AN 8 hoses made in the engine bay. I still need to fasten the hoses to the chassis as they run up to the front, then connect them to the Fuel Pressure regulator, but almost ready to test out the fuel pump and check for any leaks.

    I ran this fuel labs fuel filter
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    I ran with the Fragola Push-Lock AN fittings, and they worked great. I ended up with the following parts to assemble the whole fuel system, this should get you everything you need to connect the complete fuel system while replacing the factory fuel lines:
    - 1 - 45 degree 8 AN fitting off of the fuel pump hanger
    - 1 - 90 degree 8 AN fitting off of the fuel filter inlet
    - 1 - 90 degree 8 AN fitting off of the fuel filter outlet
    - 1 - Straight 8 AN fitting that goes into the Y-Connector
    - 1 - 8 AN Y connector
    - 1 - 45 degree 8 AN fitting on outlet to passenger side fuel rail from Y connector
    - 1 - Straight 8 AN fitting on outlet to drivers side fuel rail from Y connector
    - 1 - 90 degree 8 AN fitting on inlet of passenger side fuel rail
    - 1 - 45 degree 8 AN fitting on inlet of driver side fuel rail
    - 1 - 90 degree 8 AN fitting on outlet of driver side fuel rail
    - 1 - 90 degree 8 AN fitting on outlet of passenger side fuel rail
    - 4 - 8 AN Male Straight Thread O-ring to 8 AN fuel rail adapter fittings (for each end of the fuel rails)
    - 2 - 6 AN Male Straight Thread O-ring to 8 AN fuel rail adapter fittings (for each side of the Aeromotive FPR)
    - 1 - 6 AN Male Straight Thread O-ring to 6 AN fuel rail adapter fittings (for bottom return side of the Aeromotive FPR)
    - 1 - 45 degree 6 AN fitting off bottom of Aeromotive FPR
    - 1 - 45 degree 6 AN fitting for fuel pump return on top of fuel pump hanger
    - 20 Feet of 6 AN Fragola 8000 series Push-Lock hose
    - 20 Feet of 8 AN Fragola 8000 series Push-Lock hose

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  7. #107
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Wont be long now. Interesting.
    Was going to say, switched back to regular spring clamps on coolant hoses.
    Got rid of most of those ugly worm clamps.

  8. #108
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Thats a great idea on the spring clamps. I can hide them under the mesh hose covering too. Thanks!
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  9. #109

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    Wow this is going to be an amazing car! Sooo much good info in here for us other coyote swap guys! Keep all the details coming
    Brian R. of Michigan
    83 TBird 5.0
    88 Ranger 2.3t
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...83-Tbird-build

  10. #110
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Thanks Brian!

    Made some progress the last couple mornings. Today I started rewiring the transmission harness. I started with a T5 harness from a 1985 Mustang that looks like this:
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    Here is what the harness looked like when I was finished:
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    The pigtails you see are for the Reverse Lockout that will connect to the brake light switch, the reverse light switch, and the speed sensor that will connect to the Dakota Digital dash.

    Some folks have had experiences with their car stalling if they don't have the speed sensor wired to the PCM, so I contacted Ford Racing today, and they said that the tuner can adjust for that and eliminate any stalling, so no reason to wire into the PCM.

    I'll post a picture when the harness has been finished, I got all of the pigtails and harness leads extended this morning, just need to wrap the harness and loom it, so that nothing drags onto the exhaust. I also printed some of these labels that I use for Cat5/6 Ethernet cable labeling, which will help me keep the harnesses straight as I route wires into the dash.

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    I also opted for another upgrade, as I found a good deal on a barely used 2013-14 Heat Exchanger Water Pump. The stock Bosch pump from the 2007-2012 GT500 were known to flow about 4gph:
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    This pump from the 2013-14 cars flows about 8gph, which moves twice the water through the Heat Exchanger, and should help lower my IAT's. In these cars, the IAT's can cause the PCM to pull timing once they get above about 150 degrees, so the goal is to hopefully stay under 140 degrees. Ultimately I will probably end up with an AFCO Heat Exchanger, but at $450, I'm tapped out on the budget for now. This can be part of Stage 2 of this project. Here is a pic of the bigger pump, with a bracket that should make mounting a bit easier.
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    Last edited by vdubn; 06-27-2018 at 01:46 PM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  11. #111
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    My mornings have been the best time to get stuff done lately. With the kids out of school and sleeping in, and the sun coming up at 5am, I get a good couple hours each morning to make progress. This morning I was able to finish the transmission harness, and it turned out well. I posted it in the previous post to see the before and after.

    Then I went around and tightened all of my fuel fittings, and wired my fuel pump so that I just have a single wire that I can connect to the Control Pack power distribution box. I connected my small battery and then proceeded to check every fitting for leaks. Its a good thing I did, as about 80% of my AN fittings leaked, and required an extra twist to get them to seal. I had leaks at the fuel filter, at the fuel rails, and at the FPR. Got them all sealed up, and was able to get my fuel pressure set at a preliminary 50 psi. I'll set it to 55psi tonight, which is what it should be set to, with the vacuum line disconnected.

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    I didn't see anything leaking from on top of the tank, but I am going to drop the pass side of the tank down real quick, and make sure the AN fittings aren't leaking even just a little, since the other AN fittings needed a bit more torque, I am thinking the connections at the fuel hat might need that as well.

    I also shortened my alternator harness, and wrapped it loom. This brings me to a topic that came up recently about the Coyote Alternators and how they charge. Apparently some people have mentioned that the factory Coyote alternators are overcharging their batteries. Not sure how this is manifesting itself, if batteries are boiling, or something else, but they are measuring their charge voltage at or around 15v. So, some people have solved that by just disconnecting the alternator plug, but others have just had their tuner make changes that set the charging threshold to 13.2... I'll have my tuner set the threshold, and leave the connector connected.

    Tonight and tomorrow morning my plan is to drop the tank and check the connections at the hanger, and then I can install my exhaust. Hopefully I will have some pics of that shortly.

    Here is all thats left on the list of things to do before I start it for the first time:
    - finish connecting my power steering return hoses, and check for leaks
    - install the heat exchanger pump, connect the last few hoses, and power up the HE pump and check for leaks
    - connect radiator hoses, fill with fluid, check for leaks
    - do an oil change
    - test fit and install the JLT intake
    - install JLT pass side catch can
    - tighten brake lines under master cylinder and bleed the brake system
    - tighten motor mounts
    - connect the 6 blunt leads to power and ground sources
    - connect Dakota Digital dash to the Dakota OBD2 Expansion module (gathers oil pressure, engine temp, tach, and some other details through the CAN-Bus/OBD2 port
    - Connect and route O2 sensors away from exhaust
    - check and shield fuel lines and electrical from heat sources
    - load base tune on nGauge
    - Fire it up!

    Getting so close!
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  12. #112
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Happy 4th of July!!

    I took a couple days off and made some good progress on the car this week. I ran into a couple issues, but have been able to work through all of them. The first issue I ran into was after I connected my clutch cable, and realized at about 2/3 of the stroke of the pedal, I noticed it was hanging up. If I pushed through to the floor, then the pedal would stay at the floor. After looking things over, I found that the clutch fork was rubbing the end of the flange that barely comes into the clutch arm window of the bellhousing. Here is a pic where you can see it rubbing
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    After grinding about 1/4" off the edge of the flange, no more rubbing, and fluid motion through the stroke of the clutch pedal.

    I was able to get the exhaust all completely installed, and I am really happy with how nicely everything tucked behind the subframe connectors. I was a bit concerned that dropping the subframe by an inch would make the headers and mid-pipe sit too low, but they are level and sit nicely.
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    I also got a pic of the driveshaft loop, and the trans harness installed. The Stifflers stuff is awesome, both the trans cross member and driveshaft loop fit perfectly.

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    Last edited by vdubn; 07-04-2018 at 11:01 AM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  13. #113
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    The next thing I spent my time on was mounting the 13-14 Heat Exchanger pump, that part went pretty well, and I got it mounted between the radiator and the engine, where I had a lot of space, and where I could easily run the hoses from the degass bottles (more on that later, as the degass bottle mounting was a ton of work).

    I pressed in some nutserts into the radiator fan shroud down low, making sure that the pump didn't hang below the core support, and was in line with all of the hoses. This mounted nice and solid. The late model pump has two speeds, so you actually need to wire 2 pins with 12v, and one with ground, and that gives you the full speed of the pump.
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    The next challenge came from mounting the degass bottles. The positioning of these came with a lot of things to consider. Here are the main things that had to be taken into account:
    - The Power By The Hour alternator bracket, since it's pretty bulky, the engine coolant bottle was having a tough time fitting without hitting the alternator. - The stock hood hits if the coolant bottle is too far towards the passengers side.
    - Determining which tank was on the drivers side and which was on the passengers side was tough. The preference is that the heat exchanger degass is on the drivers side, but due to the plumbing, it was looking like I would need these tanks to be opposite of normal.
    - Finally, I had to consider the coolant lines from the intake manifold, and the bypass hoses to help avoid cavitation of the pump.

    I mocked up a bunch of different scenarios, and ultimately was able to get both tanks mounted in their normal locations, by moving the engine cooland degass bottle towards the center of the car, and by removing the locating tab for the upper radiator hose, and rotating the hose coupler at the Y-pipe section. Once I did that, it allowed the upper radiator hose to lay tight against the alternator bracket, and gave room for the drain side of the heat exchanger degass tank.

    Here is the coolant diagram I was going by, with the bypass line identified:
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    Here is mock-up of the bottles at first:
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    Here is a view of the HE pump installed, from down below, so you can see that there is still excellent clearance:
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    Finally, here is a pic of both tanks installed, and these all fit under the stock hood, with no clearance issues:
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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  14. #114
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    I ran into an issue with the passenger side catch can that I wanted to install. Initially I bought the pass side catch can for a std Coyote engine, then after deciding to install the GT500 supercharger, I returned the first one and exchanged it for a GT500 version, assuming that it would work. Long story short, the end that is supposed to snap on the valve cover was too tall, because the GT500 valve cover for the passenger side, stands up about 2" taller. So, I talked to Vinny at JLT, and they were awesome to deal with. He hooked me up with the fittings, and I built my own hoses, and it installed like it was factory

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    I didn't show them before, but here are the hoses coming out of the heat exchanger, and a pic or two of the bypass hose setup, that bypasses the degass bottle and is supposed to reduce air from getting into the system.

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    Last edited by vdubn; 07-04-2018 at 11:50 AM.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    There are also factors like reliability. You won’t ever find a coyote motor with 1/2 million miles still running. They simply aren’t engineered for the long haul on key things like ring package. I mean a catch can?! Come one, like seriously!

    Anyway— just sayin.
    That's very valid points. It's like when companies find out, "Ot oh! We made it built too good and now nobody is coming back to buy new stuff. Let's put in some shoddy parts the next time so that the people will keep coming back and then we will just tell them that it's 'normal wear and tear'".

    I wish they would build everything so it lasts forever and then it's up to you whether or not you want to get rid of it because you're bored of it.

  16. #116
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default New sales are down because same used item is too good? ax it.

    When the car companies find out, discontinue line. Ranger, Crown Vic, RWD cars.
    Then have nerve to bitch about high labor costs, huge investments for new designs, plants.
    The big rise of labor costs auto companies bitch about, created, and blame line workers for.
    If it makes money like F-150, it goes on. Do they know why F-150 sells? Sure aint the price.
    Other mfg thrive making basic old like washers, window a/c and hold prices for decades?

    Nope Ford and others would rather brag about uncorrected quarterly profits. How high can it go?
    Then spend 10's of millions of this customer profit renovating old buildings for self driving folly office space.
    And who knows how much will be wasted after. Money to burn?

    It is cool Ford continues interest to create products, like engines, of flexible config to transplant.
    Lot more 'roots' to cut and 'regrow', but doable. Niche products. SVT, Ford Racing.
    Special products like F-150 Raptor, Ford GT, others over the years.
    Parts to rebuild a fine older car platform, enhanced with newer updated parts for more enjoyment.
    Talking about more common new items to enhance or correct old flaws, mistakes, bad materials.
    Problem with retrofit- the tight CAD package specific designs used nowadays.
    Custom designed production parts, fewer off the shelf or cross platform parts like pre-90's days.

    Continued overreaction to customer complaints of fit/finish/quality/content comes at high cost.
    They do use good parts but intentionally designed closer to the edge of cost/durability by computers.
    Can achieve high perfection/durability but ruin that advantage adding 100x more components.
    They pick a design package like tv weather models, not looking what the computer put in the bag.
    More errors -more costs to recover- cheapen the product or raise price. Companies no longer to eat this.

  17. #117

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    Platform conversation eh?

    About that......

    is the point of a Mustang to perform very impressively for a long time

    C onsider this

    step 1 - put the heart of a new Mustang in a 40 year old chassis with a few braking and handling upgrades.
    Step 2 - completely destroy the new Mustang on performance

    so basically the drivetrain is high strung but packs a punch and the original chassis for the coyote 5.0 mustang absorbs the punch and takes it to a new level of lack luster by comparison..

    Why can’t Ford build a light chassis like the Fox with a powerful drivetrain like the coyote and the reliability and longevity of a pushrod 5.0?

    It’s nice some are able to attempt just that but why isn’t the new car just better?

  18. #118

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    Doesn't the fox have about a 500 lb advantage?

  19. #119
    FEP Super Member
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    Because sir , people want a smooth ride and a ton of toys in their car these days .
    More people buy the civilized version for 30 to 60 k than the ruff and loud fox .....
    Last edited by ashley roachclip; 07-07-2018 at 09:58 AM.
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  20. #120

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    The weight difference one of the things that makes this type of conversion desireable from a performance perspective.

    Im certain everyone following this thread is as in awe at the amount of re-engineering require to make it all fit as I am. Might be easier to cut a new one at the strut towers and graft the fox nose parts on around the metal— lol!

    I really hope the car is a dream to drive and never breaks when it’s all done. She gonna be a bitch to work on!

  21. #121

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    Quote Originally Posted by ashley roachclip View Post
    Because sir , people want a smooth ride and a ton of toys in their car these days .
    More people buy the civilized version for 30 to 60 k than the ruff and loud fox .....
    Hey - it’s a Mustang. There is a limit to how civilized any of us would want it to be or it should be. If we wanted more civil than that we’d drive a Lincoln. LoL. (Guilty....)
    Last edited by erratic50; 07-09-2018 at 05:36 AM.
    -- James

    "Trigger" - 86 Mustang GT - Black with red interior. 5.0 T5 built as Z. Original motor ~1/2 million miles. 18 yr daily, 7 a toy
    "Silver" - 85 Mustang Saleen 1985-0006? (Lol) Rare 1E silver / charcoal interior. Mystery. Current project roller, tons of Saleen pedigree

    Also in the stable - 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z

    past foxes -
    1989 Mustang LX Sport 5.0 AOD white/tan black top.
    Wife also had a 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe in the 90's.

    I'm a four eyed pride supporter, are you? Become one today!

  22. #122

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    And don’t get me wrong — there were clearly some four eyed foxes that NEED a heart transplant.

    A newer Ecoboost setup in a dead 2.3 turbo car is one example of what I mean.

  23. #123
    FEP Supporter vdubn's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Hey - it’s a Mustang. There is a limit to how civilized any of us would want it to be or it should be. If we wanted more civil than that we’d drive a Lincoln. LoL. (Guilty....)
    This is an interesting topic, and one that I have thought of many times. Especially since I have no reference for how the Coyote will or should feel in the Fox chassis. I haven't driven a Coyote swapped car, and I haven't driven a late model car. I've owned a number of late model vehicles, and have my 2012 F150 for the niceties of life, so honestly, my expectations for the Fox is for the "raw" feel, excessive NVH, and an overall feeling of being connected to the road. Some may do this swap to create a version of the later model Mustang in the older shell, to work towards the look of the old, and feel of the new, that is not me. I have no intentions or desire to recreate the late model feel in my early model chassis.

    Many have asked me if I will keep the car for a long time (mostly these are people that have seen me buy, build and sell cars in the past), and my hope is to hold on to this for many years after all of this work. However, if for some reason it totally misses my expectations, who knows. I feel pretty confident that it will meet all of my expectations and some, but without having experienced it before, I just won't know.

    The closest vehicle I've driven with this kind of power, is a 2018 R8 V10+, which had about 600hp, but was in an AWD configuration, with a ton of computer assistance to help with traction control, etc. My only concern with all of this power in a Fox Chassis, even with all of the chassis modifications, is that it will somehow be unpredictable, and difficult to manage on the street. Using a high powered Fox Body on the drag strip is one thing, but using it for fun/summer/daily driving is another. I would think that it should be tame when you want it, and manageable even when you want to get into it, but we will see.

    I keep seeing so many videos of guys in the late model Mustangs wrecking their cars when they do burnouts and shift into 2nd gear (the 550 and 197 cars seem to have terrible snap-back), that kind of behavior is probably my biggest concern. Granted, I think a lot of those situations are driver issues, but some appears to be characteristic of the chassis setup in the later model Mustangs. I don't think the chassis design of the fox lends itself to the same behavior as the later model cars, especially when setup with subframe connectors, panhard bar, good suspension, etc., but maybe others can chime in with their experiences.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  24. #124
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Any progress/updates, Dean?

    Mike
    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
    My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red

  25. #125

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    To each their own, but personally you couldn’t pay me to do this to a Four Eyed Fox. I’d sell it and buy a Mustang with a modern 5.0 in it first.

    A well built 363 or big bore 347 — especially with some boost — will drag a coyote 5.0 down the track sideways and do so for about 1/2 the money. It will last way longer too.

    There are also factors like reliability. You won’t ever find a coyote motor with 1/2 million miles still running. They simply aren’t engineered for the long haul on key things like ring package. I mean a catch can?! Come one, like seriously!

    Anyway— just sayin.

    it wouldn’t be friendly to not give you a little crap!


    Wow, truly the most clueless post in this thread!

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