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  1. #1

    Default Considering a 5 lug rear disc swap, found a 95 roller

    I've been reading on doing the 5 lug disc swap for my 85 GT. I would love to run some 17 inch bullitt wheels. Anyway I have found a 1995 V8 roller close by for $500. Would it be worth it to purchase for my swap? Also I'd be upgrading to an 8.8 from my 7.5 rear. Plus I'm assuming there maybe other parts on it that I could sale.

    Thanks

    Brant

  2. #2

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    Imho, yes.
    Of course, there are others that don't mind many trips and hours at junk yards to get all of the parts needed. Still, imho, for all of the parts that you need, it would be hard to find a cheaper way.
    Things that you'll need:

    Front Spindles
    Front Struts
    Front bearings
    Rear axles (in your case, the whole rear-end)
    5-lug Rims!
    Front calipers & brackets
    Front Rotors
    Rear calipers & brackets
    Rear Rotors
    Rear rubber lines from caliper to hard-line.
    For Cobra - additional rear stabilizing bracket for the caliper.
    etc, etc, etc

    For the instructions, parts list, etc, the M2300K instructions are basically the same:
    https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...htM-2300-K.pdf


    Good Luck!

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for the link. I think the wheels alone on the car are probably worth close to he asking price.

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member
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    Default

    As mentioned, if you have a 7.5" rear end car and you want to do a five lug swap a 94/95 V8 car is ideal. Keep in mind if you want to retain your fox body track width in the rear you will need shorter five lug axles. You could probably even swap all of your four lug parts onto the '95 so you can send it to the junkyard as a roller (if you end up using the '95 control arms on your car otherwise the sn95 ball joints probably won't fit into your old spindles). If you keep your fox lower control arms you will either need spacers for your ball joints (like this guy sells http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ody-5-lug-swap) so the nut doesn't bottom out on the threads before the ball joint taper seats in the spindle, or you will need to swap to SN95 ball joints. The '95 will also have good stuff like rear brake lines, hoses, and mounting brackets that you can transfer over to your car (I'd recommend replacing all flexible hoses with new parts).
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  5. #5

    Default

    Buy It! You also get the body mounts for the rear soft line and the e brake cables, plus who knows what else, seats?( I used them in mine)

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks guys, I certainly appreciate the helpful info, but I just found out this morning it is a V6 Mustang, damn. Oh well, I will continue looking, I'm sure there's another one out there.

    Brant

  7. #7
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RazorbackGT View Post
    Thanks guys, I certainly appreciate the helpful info, but I just found out this morning it is a V6 Mustang, damn. Oh well, I will continue looking, I'm sure there's another one out there.

    Brant
    Although the V6 doesn't have the 8.8 rear axle (7.5" unit in the V6) all the brake parts are the same compared to the V8 models of the same years. Only the Cobra brakes are different. Therefore, you could still use all the parts and pieces to do a 5 lug conversion to your Fox and then just keep an eye out for an 8.8 to swap in at a latter date. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    Keep in mind if you want to retain your fox body track width in the rear you will need shorter five lug axles.
    Good point.

    Fwiw, the longer rear axles will work fine with a 15" sn95 rear wheel.





    For 17" rims, without rolling fenders, a rim with specs like the FRPP D178 is needed (Wheel Diameter:17", Wheel Width (in):8.000" , Backspacing (in):5.720", Offset: +32.00mm).
    To run ABS, imho - which is awesome , the longer sn95 axles are needed, as well as the tone rings, abs sensors, etc.


    Some other things to note:
    Iirc, on the driver's side, the bracket that hold the brake-line hardline should be moved ?forward a small amount?.
    When I did my M2300K kit(around '96), I wasn't aware of that. Hence, I have clamps with rubber isolators holding my ss brakeline closer to the body. I also put fuel-line over the ss brakeline, so that I can quickly see any evidence of rubbing.

    Also, I suggest getting a CC kit (MM only! ), and a bumpsteer kit (again, MM only! ).
    Imho, the CC kit is more important, to prevent uneven wear on the front tires.

    For 17" rims and tires, and their fitment, see the following thread:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-Ford-Cobra-Rs


    Good Luck!
    Last edited by stangPlus2Birds; 04-08-2018 at 05:55 PM.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    On the rear 8.8..... ranger axles, aerostar axles, or aftermarket axles are what you want. I have a 1995 8.8 under my 86GT with 1995 17" Tribar rims and they tend to rub at times. I'm switching to fox width using fox 5-lug Mosier axles with SN95 flanges and North Racecar brake caliper brackets.

    do it right or do it twice as they say.

    A worthwhile swap for sure.

    You may need camber bolts and caster/camber plates to get your alignment where it needs to be when done.

    X2 balljoints correct bumpsteer and drop the front of your car around 3/4". caster/camber plates will drop it another 3/4". Not too shabby for stock springs. Switch to 4-banger springs out back and enjoy the improved handing and ride quality.
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-22-2019 at 10:14 AM.

  10. #10

    Default

    Yes, (sorry trey) I used camber bolts on both holes on the struts. That got it to decent driving manners but you will want the cc plates to get better ; ie any performance. For the record, my 79 is all 94 underneath. Front to rear

  11. #11

    Default

    I'm considering doing what Trey said and going ahead with the V6 roller. Quick question though, why do you have to gut and cap the old proportioning valve if it's being replaced?

    Thanks
    Brant

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    It’s a lot easier than eliminating it. Some guys put a line lock there instead which also works.

    there is a fluid sensor in the stock valve that is supposed to be there for safety reasons.

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Shane - camber bolts- lol. Yea, I figured you would need them. Saves the day sometimes though. They were required for the SN95 swap on my car and my friend’s 86 also.

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