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  1. #26

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    They should come with silicone grease. It just takes a film on every part as you go together... at least that's what I did. It also aids assembly. Then I put a few drops of 90w on the bolts before I put them in ( future insurance, hopefully)

  2. #27

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    Thanks!
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  3. #28
    FEP Member 4eyed85gt1's Avatar
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    With all that said..and thanks again for all the info....I'm gathering up parts for suspension upgrade...New poly bushings in front control arms..c/c plates coilovers full length sub frame connectors, rear upper lower control arms from maximum motorsports rear shock tower brace ..my question is where is there a shop with knowledge of these cars and the ability to install a but load of parts and do the proper wheel alignment and other refinements..I'm located in lakeside California..just outside San Diego
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  4. #29
    FEP Member 4eyed85gt1's Avatar
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    I'm gonna bit the bullit and go with maximum motorsports front control arms ...I like there stuff good quality part....most of my upgraded suspension will be maximum motorsports
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  5. #30
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    11,982

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyed85gt1 View Post
    With all that said..and thanks again for all the info....I'm gathering up parts for suspension upgrade...New poly bushings in front control arms..c/c plates coilovers full length sub frame connectors, rear upper lower control arms from maximum motorsports rear shock tower brace ..my question is where is there a shop with knowledge of these cars and the ability to install a but load of parts and do the proper wheel alignment and other refinements..I'm located in lakeside California..just outside San Diego
    There is . . . but we are not located in CA.

    Good luck with your suspension upgrades! I am sure you will love it!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #31

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    It's been a while, so here's a quick update... The bushings will not go in all the way by hand or hammer, so I used a ball joint removal/ install tool to press them in all the way. No issues, and no modifying the poly bushings.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  7. #32
    FEP Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by banzaibullitt View Post
    It's been a while, so here's a quick update... The bushings will not go in all the way by hand or hammer, so I used a ball joint removal/ install tool to press them in all the way. No issues, and no modifying the poly bushings.
    The final test will be after putting the final torque on the mounting bolts.
    **If after torquing down,the a-arm doesn't slowly swing down under it's own weight you know the bushings are binding and the faces of the bushing will need to be trimmed.**

    Not only is this the proper way, but it will prevent the dreaded poly squeak from the faces of the bushings being over compressed against the mounts.After being pressed into the a-arm the faces of the poly bushings should be even with and not extend past the face of the inner sleeve.

    Good luck
    Last edited by OldManRiver; 05-27-2018 at 09:26 PM.
    '86 Med.Canyon Red Met.(original paint) T-top,5 speed,3.55 rear,MAF conversion(A9L).MM adj. RLCAs,T/A,Panhard Bar,and adj MMRSB-3,rear T/A springs 375#-440#,MM C/C plates,MM 1.125" dia.swaybar,STB,4pt KMB,FLSFC's,'03 Cobra rack-n-pinion w/ Saginaw pump conversion.Bilstein MM coilover conversion and A-arms,front spring rate:250#.

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManRiver View Post
    The final test will be after putting the final torque on the mounting bolts.
    **If after torquing down,the a-arm doesn't slowly swing down under it's own weight you know the bushings are binding and the faces of the bushing will need to be trimmed.**

    Not only is this the proper way, but it will prevent the dreaded poly squeak from the faces of the bushings being over compressed against the mounts.After being pressed into the a-arm the faces of the poly bushings should be even with and not extend past the face of the inner sleeve.

    Good luck
    Too late. The front suspension is back together. When I was taking everything apart, the a-arms didn't move by themselves with the old bushings still in. I guess I'll just drive it and see what happens.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  9. #34

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    Im in the same situation as you with the untrimmed bushings already being installed. Im going to assume its a non issue, but keep us posted about how it works out for you!
    Tony

  10. #35

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    For what itís worth, ready to go control arms are SO inexpensive compared to the labor. They donít have this trimming problem either.

    Low friction balljoints install more easily too. food for thought.

    sometimes itís about choosing what to do.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by erratic50; 06-07-2018 at 01:35 AM.

  11. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by flinfantryrebel View Post
    Im in the same situation as you with the untrimmed bushings already being installed. Im going to assume its a non issue, but keep us posted about how it works out for you!
    I'll let you know. It will probably be another week, because I'm in the middle of doing a 4 wheel disc swap.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  12. #37

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    Finally got the brakes done and drove the car.

    flinfantryrebel, No squeaks or other issues.
    Last edited by banzaibullitt; 07-15-2018 at 12:28 PM.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  13. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    I recently looked them up. They're more like $100 each, these days.
    Not from LMR. $44.99
    Last edited by banzaibullitt; 07-15-2018 at 12:27 PM.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManRiver View Post
    The final test will be after putting the final torque on the mounting bolts.
    **If after torquing down,the a-arm doesn't slowly swing down under it's own weight you know the bushings are binding and the faces of the bushing will need to be trimmed.**

    Not only is this the proper way, but it will prevent the dreaded poly squeak from the faces of the bushings being over compressed against the mounts.After being pressed into the a-arm the faces of the poly bushings should be even with and not extend past the face of the inner sleeve.

    Good luck
    I did not have to trim the poly bushings.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  15. #40
    FEP Senior Member
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    Sep 2011
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    Central,Wisconsin
    Posts
    628

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    In my post I never stated it was something you "have" to do,I just like to do things right the first time.
    Reducing bind by installing poly bushes is the goal majority of folks are after.
    The squeak may still come when the grease on the faces no longer does it's job.

    Good luck
    '86 Med.Canyon Red Met.(original paint) T-top,5 speed,3.55 rear,MAF conversion(A9L).MM adj. RLCAs,T/A,Panhard Bar,and adj MMRSB-3,rear T/A springs 375#-440#,MM C/C plates,MM 1.125" dia.swaybar,STB,4pt KMB,FLSFC's,'03 Cobra rack-n-pinion w/ Saginaw pump conversion.Bilstein MM coilover conversion and A-arms,front spring rate:250#.

  16. #41

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    Good deal - glad you got it back up and going!

    Redoing a front end is a lot of work!! if I do one again I have some lessons learned that make it easier. The main one is once the bushings are at length you can compress the spring right through the control arm and put the A arm bolts in.

  17. #42
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Jan 2015
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    Barboursville, WV
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    784

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    Quote Originally Posted by banzaibullitt View Post
    Not from LMR. $44.99
    We were discussing control arms. They're $130 each at LMR.

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