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  1. #1

    Default 80 steering rack

    Does anyone know if you can swap the stock ‘80 20:1 rack out for a 15:1 “with performance suspension “ rack? Are the lines and input shaft the same? Is it a simple swap or what’s it all involved? Stock rack sprung a leak on me and this might be a good opportunity for an upgrade. Any helpful advice would be appreciated. Thanks


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  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
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    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    14,209

    Default

    The racks will interchange between the two.

    General recommendation is to match your PS pump to the rack. This is for the correct pressure and volume of fluid. So buy the PS pump that matches the year model of the R&P.

    I personally would recommend installing new lines when doing the swap. They are relatively inexpensive and much more difficult to do at a later date. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
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    Current Capris:
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    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
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  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Dec 2016
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    Nebraska
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    4,575

    Default

    Add a filter on the return line that you change with the fluid every 15K miles. Add a transcooler or use the auto bung on the radiator if it’s a stick car and eliminate the crappy cooling loop. No more power steering noise! Personally I did this, underdrive my pump, and run synthetic.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    SE Michigan
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    5,154

    Default Do it

    I did in 2015. All is well. No leaks, no noises of any kind anytime period. Took some getting used to.

    Again, the only glitch: Steering wheel was upside down after rack install. No way to correct this with alignment.
    The newer racks index earlier car's steering coupler differently. At least it did mine.
    Decided to remove the wheel. The wheel can be re clocked on early cars. Or do a coupler rebuild to correct the problem.
    After bending the s wheel removing tool bolts, a very unnerving 'pop' noise happened when wheel came off. Nothing broke though.

    Upgrades car to year 1983+ rack, used with performance/sport suspension. These parts are much more common for future repairs.
    Minimum is rack, pump, hoses. A matched assy. All or none. Ok to match tie rod ends to the year of the car.
    Would not recommend doing this job with unknown parts combos or reusing old parts.
    Better yet would include new struts, front a-arm renew, sway bar bushings and links, rear suspension bushing or arm renew.
    When buying parts, use or sign up for the store reward point program, if available, for discounts.

    More info in this tread.
    This is my post with part numbers used and notes.
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...62#post1765562

  5. #5

    Default

    You must keep use of the steering rack bushings for the M16 bolts assuming that you are keeping the stock k-member. Racks built after 1984 have bushings designed for M12 bolts. The bushings can be swapped from rack to rack.

    All 1979-89 Mustangs can have their steering wheels clocked 0 or 180 degrees on the steering column. You can do this with 1990-2004 Mustangs also, but you run the risk of tearing wires inside the clock spring due to the airbag in the steering wheel.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Add a filter on the return line that you change with the fluid every 15K miles. Add a transcooler or use the auto bung on the radiator if it’s a stick car and eliminate the crappy cooling loop. No more power steering noise! Personally I did this, underdrive my pump, and run synthetic.
    Just wondering what synthetic fluid your running?

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