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  1. #101
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
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    Great talent and disecting well done

  2. #102
    New User frisbee6291's Avatar
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    Default check out this article

    check out this article

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  3. #103
    New User frisbee6291's Avatar
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    I had the carb on my 84 GT worked up at that place after reading this article.

  4. #104

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    I used to be a fan of magazine articles, back when they taught ya something, how to do things, save money, etc... then later I began to see less and less of that, and realized and saw more and more of that when it says SOURCES, it should say SPONSORS. Probably all I should say about that and the above article. Apparently 'Pony Carburetors' (RIP to the owner who's name I can't recall right now) had a good recipe for smartening up 4180's... but details are shared nowhere...

    Cool, and the results of your worked up carburetor were...?
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #105

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    Nothing too much to update on the carburetor right now... haven't had time... spring rush... an item of interest just finished up is a '65 289 Mustang's original Autolite 4100 4-barrel (a version of which Summit Racing calls theirs now) rebuild. For a short while today, I continued to get a secondary metering block ready for the E5Z 4180
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 10-01-2019 at 05:39 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #106
    New User frisbee6291's Avatar
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    Hey Walking Tall . The car ran incredible after that . My plan is to try and get that car back on the road after sitting for a mere 20 years. I also have 4 or 5 other magazine with articles about tuning a 4180 . Let me know if You want me to scan and put on here .

  7. #107

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    Nice. Up to you, the articles might be helpful to somebody. Information is the name of the game of this thread.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  8. #108

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    Got in a 1984 Mustang (GT-350) E4ZE 4180 to go through today. Pretty original, kinda crunchy dirty, seized secondaries, etc., etc....

    When I order a kit and stuff for it, I will order what's needed for our E5ZE we've been working on throughout this thread
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  9. #109

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    Sincere apologies to anybody who has been witnessing the loud and unmistakable sound of crickets in this thread. Atlantic Nationals is here this week/weekend, and I am up nearly past my eyeballs with carburetor work right now. Hopefully in a week or so things will slow down a bit and I can get back at our 4180. I am very much looking forward to it being put to the test to see how she works... stick around...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  10. #110

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    Iím sticking around lol

  11. #111

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    Love the write up. Will get started on mine while I wait for more.

  12. #112

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    WT, what size cup plugs did you use?

  13. #113

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    The cup plugs in the 4180's primary metering block are 5/16", as opposed to the regular traditional 1/4" Holley metering block idle/main well cup plugs... and as a matter of fact, I haven't sourced any 5/16" cup plugs yet...

    I know it seems ridiculous, but I simply have not had time to resume working with the '85 4180 that's here. I will, I promise, and we will put it to the test...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 10-01-2019 at 05:45 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  14. #114

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    Pardon the repetition, but I believe the following is useful to be posted in numerous places...

    A shamefully ridiculous example of why I tell folks in regard to Holley carburetors, "if you want a good one, get an old one":


    Posted at racingfuelsystems forum, entitled "Brand New Blunder #??? - A Heads Up..."

    "So a local (repeat client) fellow contacted me asking if I could fine tune his brand new spread bore vacuum secondary... that with a few miles of driving his '77 Malibu he found that it would hesitate upon light part throttle "tip in"...

    Observation #1 was a throttle lever bent over toward the main body badly, so badly that it was bent all the way down to the throttle shaft area and loose on the throttle shaft, obviously dropped before it went into the box, and bumping into the driver's side secondary link lever at wide open throttle as well... and a secondary stop bracket not allowing full wide open of the secondary throttle plates... idle screw backed out, fully shut primary throttle plates, he said still idled way too fast, primary lever and idle screw tip not even inline with each other (primary throttle shaft not fully installed/seated laterally originally), and quite open secondary throttle blades...

    Observation #2 was small appearing primary idle air bleeds, and large idle mixture passages and blunt-tipped idle mixture screws... so I told him it is a "reverse-idle" unit, and it'll have passage holes into the primary bores, blah blah blah how "reverse-idle" works etc... I don't remember where now, but online somewhere that sells these states that the 80555-1 4175 650 spread bore vacuum secondary has a "forward" idle circuit... I presume as opposed to "reverse"?... hmmm, okay...

    Observation #3 was NO holes/passages into the primary bores for "reverse-idle"... so, in a nutshell, it has standard idle main body and base plate, and a "reverse-idle" primary metering block and mixture screws... at first I got him back here and showed him all of their "quality control" and "attention to detail", and thought completing "reverse-idle" would be the best course of action to make it behave... but after some more thought about it, I decided against that, because it would mean blocking the large standard idle discharge holes in the base plate, drilling new small ??? size constant idle feed holes below the primary transfer slots, and drilling ??? size passage holes into the main body... so instead I drilled the idle mixture screw passages in the PMB with a #29 drill, tapped 8-32 thread on through the passage, and installed 8-32x1/8" brass socket set screws with 1/16" holes in them, so that regular sharp tip idle mixture screws can be used...

    Observation #4 was air bleed sizes crazy in contrast to the handful of these (other, older, LIST-7002 etc.) that I have dealt with before, as well as somewhat larger than usual primary idle feed restrictions at 0.029"... and #64 primary jets where #62's are supposed to be according to documentation...

    Here are it's original calibration details as I found/measured:
    - 0.029" PIFR's (?) & 0.035" SIFR's (#54 SMP - specs not listed anywhere btw)
    - 0.053" PIAB's (?) & 0.051" SIAB's (?)
    - 0.036" PMAB's & 0.040" SMAB's (?!)
    - #64 PMJ's (?) & 0.081" secondary main circuit holes (#54 SMP - specs not listed anywhere btw)
    - 0.057" PVCR's
    - 0.040" pump shooter (?!) and orange pump cam in position 2

    So I remedied the metering block like explained above, loosened throttle blade screws and shuffled shafts and blades around so they were correct, got out the brass and drills and created 6-32x1/8" 0.026" PIFR's (very mild stock replacement camshaft in rebuilt 350) and installed those in the block, installed #62 PMJ's, drilled and tapped and installed 10-32x3/16" 0.070" PIAB's, 6-32x1/8" (the secondary constant idle feed holes seemed a bit big at about 0.030", so I chose to create) 0.040" SIAB's and 6-32x1/8" 0.026" SMAB's, and installed new regular idle mixture screws and the orange pump cam in position 1... not having any "anti-pullover" shooters of other/smaller sizes on hand, the rather large 0.040" remains in it...

    A couple hours after picking it up, he was back at the door, beaming and grinning, telling me to come check out my handy work. He brought the car, and it was idling in the driveway slowly and nice and smooth, and he said it's working night and day real nice, and making far more sense setting idle speed and mixture... and when he left here, it launched real good, barking out the exhaust, lifting the nose of the car some and was off down the street, lol!

    Thought I'd share this with you guys who may end up dealing with one of these further enhanced (translation: EFFED UP) versions of the "new and improved" that come brand spankin' new outta that place and cost this fellow 750 smackers... for what? Nearly complete re-calibration necessary so that it will just FUNCTION correctly... pardon my french, but the pompous jackasses who apparently know-it-all really should be knocked down a few notches somehow... I wish..."

    So yeah, the moral of the story... stop buying expensive new garbage from giant monopolizing corporations, because contrary to their marketing and such, they do not know WTF they are talking about or doing there at all anymore.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

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