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Thread: Oil type

  1. #1

    Default Oil type

    In search of oil type recommendations. I was told to run motorcraft in it. I've run Mobil 1 full synthetic in all my vehicles, but know some vehicles require a certain type. The only motorcraft I've found is synthetic. It's an 84 v6. Don't mind spending the money just need to know what the right thing to buy is (brand, synthetic or regular, etc). Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    I use Valvoline DuraBlend and Motorcraft filters in my 3 Mustang's. Have had no oil related issues.

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  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    This is a topic that comes up quite often here, and I think the consensus is that, well, like beer most folks have their preferences. These engines didn't have high tech synthetics when new, and they've lasted a long time on conventional oils that aren't nearly as good as the stuff you can buy nowadays. Pretty much any quality brand conventional oil will do the job well for your engine if it's in good condition and essentially stock.

    Now, if you really want to get folks going ask what kind of filter you should use...

    There are some good threads on oil types and filters if you dig a little you'll find them. There are a number of good brands, get name brand oil and a decent filter and you'll be good!

  4. #4
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    I believe the concern for the older engines is the non-roller valve train needs the additives which are not present in today’s oils. I believe it’s the zinc additive which can be added separately. It’s also not going to kill the engine immediately as it’s a long term issue.

    V8 went roller in 86 I think
    V6 never had roller in 79-86, I have never heard anyone discuss it. See next post.
    I6 never had roller 79-82?
    I4 never had roller 79-93. Later Ranger engines had it.

    I’m no expert but I believe this covers to oil additive issue for the stock Foxbody.

    Edit: the v6 was discontinued in the Mustang early in the 1986 production year.
    Last edited by KevinK; 03-25-2018 at 09:49 PM.
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  5. #5
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    FWIW Ford did not go to roller cams in the 3.8 until 1989.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Zinc is what the flat tappet lifters need

    A lot of people make the mistake of running too low of viscosity oil which is great for economy but bad for engines.

    What the numbers mean......

    SAE 30 - straight 30 weight. It acts like 30w oil all the time, both hot and cold

    10W40 - acts like a straight 10 weight when is warm and 40 weight when it’s cold

    10w30 - you guessed it

    So now think about 5w20 or 0w20, etc.

    Keep that crap the hell away from your foxbody. It will carry crap for oil pressure warm/hot and it will wear out faster.


    Ive had my 1986GT for 25 years. It was my daily driver for 18 years after it spent two full seasons at the drag strip getting thrashed. No overhaul no nothing. The car has nearly 1/2 million miles on it.

    ive always ran conventional Mobile 10W40 - even in the cold a$$ Nebraska winters. I just let it idle for a few minutes while I clean my windows, etc.

    Ive always changed oil consistently every 3000 miles and always use a new filter. Usually Motorcraft, wix, or Puralator but I’ve also used some Frams before I knew they suck too.

    Its had a lot of Slick50 and Duralube, etc, ran through it over the years.

    The motor is worn and smokes heavily but it’s mostly valve guides and oil rings. The motor still makes good compression and the car still runs hard.


    With a fair amount of frequency it sees full power shifts at 6100 RPM and I usually manage to keep it off the rev limiter.

    It received a mild speed density friendly cam in the late 80’s. MAF A9L converted. I run 70MM MAF, 65MM throttle body, typhoon EFI, headers, 2.5” exhaust.

  7. #7

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    I've used 5w30,10w30,10w40,15w40,and 20w50 in my 2.3L, sometimes even at the same time. Never once caused any problems. I've used Motorcraft, Valvoline, Valvoline MaxLife, Rotella, and a few others. The fact is, oil today is incredibly better than anything these engines were spec'd for when they were built. You can use pretty much any name brand oil with excellent results. However, there are advantages to some- If you don't drive much, you may want a synthetic or synthetic blend. If you have some oil seepage, a "high mileage" oil may help. The key is doing oil changes at proper intervals and using a quality oil and oil filter.
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  8. #8

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    I buy oil from the dollar store, Preferably from the discount bin. Rollers = run what ever comes cheap. The engine is built for a certain weight oil. However, by the time you get 100k miles on an engine, she ain't what she used to be, and who know what the engine really needs. If it doesn't sound like a sewing machine, your probably good.

    Flat tappet motor, need zinc additives. They removed lead and basically all lead substitutes from oils. These engines were designed with those additives in mind. Without them, they will wear quickly.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Usually use 10w30 in the 79 Mustang. 2.3T carb.
    20w50 is too thick. 10w40 ok in summer.
    79 owners manual calls for SF grade, no CC (diesel spec). Meeting SL spec is good.
    Brands: Valvoline, QS Defy, Mobil 1, Motorcraft, Warren. Racing VR1, synthetic, semi, regular, hi mile.
    Magnetic oil plug. No noises. Normal op.
    Several seeps from op gasket. No drips. Always been a 1qt/per 1000 engine, if that.

    Ranger 2.3 gets Valvoline 5w30 Durablend or synthetic period since day 1. Sound engine, 1 qt every 2500.
    No drips. Magnetic oil plug. Several seeps from op gasket.
    Even 5w will reach 80# pressure cold.
    Mobil 1 ATF in trans since 20,000. 350k same trans.

    No additives used ever. Have gotten 200,000+ on four 4 cyl engines. One VW, all three Ford 2.3's.
    Did not own the others long enough to see if they would hit the 2k mark.
    Read something about the oil bottle label with saw tooth means no zinc: plain circle has zinc.
    Id worry more about zinc in a new engine more than one broken in.
    If oil label says not for cat conv like diesel oil, prob has the good stuff in it.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member escogt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    I believe the concern for the older engines is the non-roller valve train needs the additives which are not present in today’s oils. I believe it’s the zinc additive which can be added separately. It’s also not going to kill the engine immediately as it’s a long term issue.

    V8 went roller in 86 I think
    V6 never had roller in 79-86, I have never heard anyone discuss it. See next post.
    I6 never had roller 79-82?
    I4 never had roller 79-93. Later Ranger engines had it.

    I’m no expert but I believe this covers to oil additive issue for the stock Foxbody.

    Edit: the v6 was discontinued in the Mustang early in the 1986 production year.
    V8 went roller in '85.
    '85GT Bright Atlantic Blue
    '92LX Bimini Blue-sold
    '93 COBRA Teal Metallic-sold
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  11. #11
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Pretty much sums it up
    http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012...-what-why-how/

    When i worked in the engine plant back in the 70's, oil was no big deal. Brand changed all the time.
    Later, during plant tours, was always playing spy as to what kind of oil in those 55 gal drums of.

    Newer 'Vette, Z28, engines get Mobil 1. 5w30 for street, 15w50 for track
    Mobil claims 60 apps
    Castrol boasts they do Volvo, BMW
    Read viscosity is more important than brand
    ford coyote engine i seen today said 5w20

    royal purple makes special oils
    engines with high lift cams and spring pressures need the expensive stuff.
    Last edited by gr79; 05-03-2018 at 11:20 PM.

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