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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Stripping engine bay

    Hey guys, my Son and I are in the process of stripping the engine bay on a 84 Gt so it can eventually be cleaned and painted before the 302 goes in. Is there any info or schematics on what everything is, what we can remove and what we should leave in? We are both very new to this and I really have no idea lol. We were talking today and I think we are going to remove A/C for sure but have not decided on the heat yet. Here is a picture of what we've done so far.

    Also for the more knowledgeable how does the bay look? Anything we should be concerned about? Rust? Shocktowers? Etc.

    Also not sure if this is right place to post this so mods please move if it's not.

    Edit: sorry for the sidways picture.

    Thanks.
    Attachment 119718
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 03-23-2018 at 10:24 AM.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    That frame rail in the passenger front where the battery sits looks like it needs some attention. Looks like it has seen some battery acid. Use a can of engine degreaser on everything under the hood, then you should see any rusted areas more easily. Look for rust damage around the master cylinder from brake fluid too. It would be a good idea to take out the fender liners and inspect the strut towers and frame rails from the other side as well.

    Cale

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member
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    Get the EVTM Ford manual for your car. It will cover most things and is easy to read. Take pictures, lots of them. If all else fails, ask for more details or pictures here.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    welcome! good old fashion soap and water with a scrub brush goes a long ways to cleaning up an engine compartment. Or the spray on and wait then wash off degreasers.

    Good luck with your build!

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cb84capri View Post
    That frame rail in the passenger front where the battery sits looks like it needs some attention. Looks like it has seen some battery acid. Use a can of engine degreaser on everything under the hood, then you should see any rusted areas more easily. Look for rust damage around the master cylinder from brake fluid too. It would be a good idea to take out the fender liners and inspect the strut towers and frame rails from the other side as well.

    Cale
    Thanks for the reply Cale, regarding the frame rail where the battery sat. It looks and feels like just surface rust to me. Should I just wire brush the crap out of it then use some por 15? Also anything I need to know about in taking fender liners off? Tricks or tips? Thanks
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 03-23-2018 at 11:48 AM.

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    Get the EVTM Ford manual for your car. It will cover most things and is easy to read. Take pictures, lots of them. If all else fails, ask for more details or pictures here.
    Thanks for the reply Kevin. I just purchased the Haynes manual for 79 to 93 mustang and capri's so hopefully that will help me out.

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member
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    The Haynes manual is decent for maintenance type work, but the factory service manuals will have much more model specific information. I picked up a complete set of Ford manuals and an EVTM for my '85 LTD from ebay for about $60. They are out there for relatively cheap if you shop around.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
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    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member
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    There is am 83 evtm posted in the library if you want to see an example.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Take pictures or video of EVERYTHING! I do mean EVERYTHING!!! You will be amazed how much you forget or don't recall when it comes time to put it back together. The manuals will help, but pictures are worth . . . Well you know the rest!

    You can't remove the A/C without removing the heater core tubes also just FYI. They are in the same box unless you happen to have Dealer installed air.

    You can pull everything off the firewall, fenders, etc. and then wrap with Aluminum foil while you do your degreasing and any other sanding/cleaning work needed. If the engine bay requires blasting to remove paint/rust/etc. then you will most likely want to remove all the wiring, but that can become a nightmare if you haven't and even when you have done it before.

    I generally remove the inner liners when I remove the fenders. If you are only removing the liners ,then remove the front wheels, remove all the push pins that attach the liners to the inner fender areas, then remove the screws on the fender lips. The carefully pull both ends toward the center of the wheel opening while pulling the fender liner off the wheel lip. Easier done than explained, but once you get one side done, you will understand.

    As for Rust, if the rust is essentially surface rust, then POR 15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator will do the trick. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Take pictures or video of EVERYTHING! I do mean EVERYTHING!!! You will be amazed how much you forget or don't recall when it comes time to put it back together. The manuals will help, but pictures are worth . . . Well you know the rest!

    You can't remove the A/C without removing the heater core tubes also just FYI. They are in the same box unless you happen to have Dealer installed air.

    You can pull everything off the firewall, fenders, etc. and then wrap with Aluminum foil while you do your degreasing and any other sanding/cleaning work needed. If the engine bay requires blasting to remove paint/rust/etc. then you will most likely want to remove all the wiring, but that can become a nightmare if you haven't and even when you have done it before.

    I generally remove the inner liners when I remove the fenders. If you are only removing the liners ,then remove the front wheels, remove all the push pins that attach the liners to the inner fender areas, then remove the screws on the fender lips. The carefully pull both ends toward the center of the wheel opening while pulling the fender liner off the wheel lip. Easier done than explained, but once you get one side done, you will understand.

    As for Rust, if the rust is essentially surface rust, then POR 15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator will do the trick. Good Luck!
    Well tried my luck at getting the drivers side liner out and could not get it. I can get it a bit but I'm scared I'm going to crack it cause I have to pry and bend it. Anybody have any videos on how it come out? Also if it does crack or break can you get replacements for a 84?

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