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  1. #1

    Default Trouble getting fuel line disconnected.

    I am having all sorts of trouble getting the fuel line disconnected on my 4180 so I remove it for a rebuild. The fittings on the fuel line are pretty much shot.
    Any suggestions other than cutting the line and replacing it?
    1985 Mustang GT convertible triple white
    Bone stock, original unrestored

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    There are two fittings actually...are you trying to remove the smaller/outer nut, or the larger nut at the base of the carb? I have found them both to be a PITA, but seem to have more luck when I put a large wrench (I think it is 15/16 or 1") on the fitting at the base of the carb, then clamping down on the smaller nut with some good vice grips (assuming by shot you mean stripped) and working those two against each other to break it loose.

    Also, do you know if the fuel line was ever replaced via recall? Feel the backside of the fuel line for a seam. If there is a seam, it is factory original and should be replaced anyway...they were known to split and cause fires. You want a replacement line that is not seamed. It's not an easy job to replace as I recall some other accessories need to come off the front of the engine to snake the line out/in from fuel pump to carb.

    This is the one you want if you have an original line: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-MUC1025SS/1...ainless-Steel-
    Last edited by sowaxeman; 03-12-2018 at 04:00 PM.
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 GT Med. Red - 14k Mile Orig. Survivor
    '85 GT Black - 16k Mile Orig. Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2016 Best Original 79-86)
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
    '92 LX 5.0 Calypso - 10k Mile Orig. Survivor (Sold @ Foxtoberfest...2017 Best Original 87-93)
    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,700 Mile Original Survivor
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey - 16k miles @ counting.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Oh wow didn't know that about splitting. Will have to check mine...

    I have replaced the nut on the end by cutting the line and using a compression fitting to attach a new flare end with nut.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  4. #4

    Default

    Lmr sells the lines prebent also if you want a complete replacement from pump to carb.
    84 LX Vert. 5.0 5speed canyon red on white
    99 cobra, electric green on medium parchment, vortech s-trim

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Yeah the link that was given above has that. It's great that it's available. Next issue I have will have the whole line replaced.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  6. #6

    Default

    Decided to replace the fuel line from the pump to carb. I am having all sorts of trouble getting this thing to fit correctly. I feel as if it is one of those little mind puzzles trying to get the fuel line to fit. I have already removed the belt and the A/C bracket.
    Any advice?
    Last edited by MrFoMoCo; 06-12-2018 at 09:17 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT convertible triple white
    Bone stock, original unrestored

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    I did mine when all the front accessories/bracket were off....including the water pump. It's definitely a damn puzzle for sure!
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 GT Med. Red - 14k Mile Orig. Survivor
    '85 GT Black - 16k Mile Orig. Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2016 Best Original 79-86)
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
    '92 LX 5.0 Calypso - 10k Mile Orig. Survivor (Sold @ Foxtoberfest...2017 Best Original 87-93)
    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,700 Mile Original Survivor
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey - 16k miles @ counting.

  8. #8

    Default

    It's definitely easier with accessories off. Power steering pump, AC & brackets, & fuel pump. If the fuel pump heat shield is still in place, it will come off. You have to remove and plug the fuel supply and return lines. 9/16" deep well socket to remove the nuts. The shield lifts up and around the pump. You may be able to thread the fuel tube in without pulling the pump at this point.
    W

    As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."

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