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  1. #1

    Default 3G alternator conversion to 86 GT questions.

    I am currently converting an 86 GT to a 3G alternator. There seems to be more than one school of thought on this (see schematic).

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    The first is to leave the original Black/Orange charge wires in tacked and connect them to the charge output post of the 3G alternator. Add a 4AWG (circuit protected) charge wire to the same output post and connect it to the battery side of the starter relay.
    Set up the D connector with the white wire going to stater on the alternator and connect green to green and yellow to yellow.

    The second school is of the opinion to ditch the original Black/Orange charge wire because it becomes a safety issue. It is not big enough to carry 130 amps (if the circuit protection is tripped on the 4AWG). Connect a new 4AWG (circuit protected) from the output post of the 3G alternator to the battery side of the starter relay. For the D connector connect the yellow wire to the battery side of the starter relay or the output post of the alternator, the white wire to the stater on the alternator and green to green.

    I lean to the second school of thought but my Question one is this. If you do either (see schematic) can the amp gauge read accurately?

    If the first method is chosen then not all of the current produced will go through the amp gauge.

    If the second method is chosen then none of the charging current will run through the gauge.

    Question 2 is can the factory amp gauge even handle 130 amps? Even if it could who would want 130 amps running through the dash board?

    Any input on this is appreciated.

    Matthew

  2. #2

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    Maybe this will help.

    Option 1

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    Option 2

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    Thanks
    Matthew

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The amp gauge actually works off of extremely small differences in voltage between points in the current path AFAIK. As long as it sees current on the path it has a chance of working. That being said most amp meters in the Four eyed foxes I've seen stopped working a few decades ago. Mine certainly did.

    I would judge based upon how slow the blinkers got if there is a charging problem. That also told me when it was time to shut down the old school 1100 watt stereo in my car. That's not to say I didn't end up roll starting my ride while I was learning the basics of how not to drain a battery.....

    Did you know batteries have a cranking amp, a cold cranking amp, and an amp hour rating? Many only know about the first two. Blow it on the 3rd and you're melting down the cores of batteries-- you know, for sport. First upgrade I made to my Four Eyed fox after reducing a battery to a puddle on day 2 was the biggest battery I could find. 1100 CCA, squeeze it in and make it work.

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    This does not answer any of your amp gauge questions, but here is something I found recently and I am considering using for my 82 RS when I do the 3G conversion to it. It may help it many not. just thought I would mention it. Good luck!

    http://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
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  5. #5
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    One comment - that is precisely what I ordered for my 85 Saleen build.

    Details such as which specific alternator or what other parts are needed is something I don't have currently. It's pending getting to that part of the build and seeing what it takes. Lots of other stuff to do before that point.

    I had to order an entire underhood harness for my 85 as the factory one had the classic 85 brittle wire insulation problem and looked like Alvin and the Chipmunks had a party there. Old cars and spending money..... fun.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    This does not answer any of your amp gauge questions, but here is something I found recently and I am considering using for my 82 RS when I do the 3G conversion to it. It may help it many not. just thought I would mention it. Good luck!

    http://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/
    Awesome. Certainly picking that up when the time comes.

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    If the second method is chosen then none of the charging current will run through the gauge.
    I took this method, and then "made" a factory looking volt meter.


    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ght=volt+meter
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
    I took this method, and then "made" a factory looking volt meter.


    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ght=volt+meter
    That was my thought exactly. Thanks for the info OX1

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Really good solution to the problem introduced by going 3G

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    That was my thought exactly. Thanks for the info OX1
    The only thing I would do different, is the boldness of the "red".
    The stock guages seemed a little more orange.

    Not sure how much of that was fading, but my maroon piping
    on my seats is not faded at all, and they seem to fade pretty easy.

    Might even be worth sending guage to people who make
    overlay, see if they can match it even better.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  11. #11

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    I wired it as in option 2 except, I left the y/w wire in tact to see if it would work as is. Fired it and I am getting 14.75 volts @ idle. Seems a bit high but I checked to make sure the alternator was not full field and it is not. So that is good news. I only ran it to verify alternator operation (about 2 min) as I have to run 4 AWG power and ground for the audio, the reason for the 3G to begin with. After that is complete I will go about doing a volt meter conversion because as suspected the ammeter is in operative. Will keep you posted.

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