Close



Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: 84 auto shifter

  1. #1
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    harrisburg oregon
    Posts
    37

    Default 84 auto shifter

    I've been working on trying to figure out my high idle and finally had to do something. The other day on my trip home from work the car would not idle below 2000 rpm. When I got home I removed the rod that goes to the tras mission and found it was binding. So I tweaked it a bit and now it shifts late and very hard. I understand what the rod does but would like to figure out how to readjust it if its possible. Keep in mind the adjustment I did was so minor. Thank you

  2. #2
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    harrisburg oregon
    Posts
    37

    Default

    I might add that the adjustment made did fix the binding throttle. Also this car is an 84 with a 5.0 CFI

  3. #3

    Default

    It actually isn't that bad, simple little bolt down by where it attaches to the transmission. You can reach it by just laying on your back on the drivers side. However... I would take it to a shop that knows what they are doing and make sure the pressure is set correctly. Better late and hard shifts than mush shifts as the early and mushy will destroy your transmission.

  4. #4

    Default

    Most importantly... the transmission in this car is... what?...
    BTW, "late and hard" shifts are good for transmission life, and early and mushy shifts are good for early automatic transmission death and increased load and fuel consumption. The factory instills shift overlap for "comfort"... that's perfectly fine for elites riding in the back seat with more money than brains... it's not a good thing...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 02-17-2018 at 07:21 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #5
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    harrisburg oregon
    Posts
    37

    Default

    The transmission is an automatic with overdrive. I'm not sure other than that

  6. #6
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    harrisburg oregon
    Posts
    37

    Default

    I figure a hard shift might be better but when your doing 25 before it shifts out of low is not such a good thing let alone the next set of gears. It's funny how such a small bend will mess up shifting that bad.

  7. #7

    Default

    Yeah, just a couple of small turns at the cfi and it really affects the trani pressure. If it's stock it is an aod. You can try to change it yourself just remember that hard shift is good and you can easily destroy the transmission by going too far the other way.

  8. #8
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    harrisburg oregon
    Posts
    37

    Default

    I've finally got it drivable but I think I will take it in to the tray shop. I just hate doing that because I like doing everything myself but info on the exact procedure is not readily available.

  9. #9

    Default

    With cable pull, at idle, there is to be no slack, but no pull either... so I assume with the rod type it should be the same but opposite, no slack but no push at idle... but, some information I found...

    At the bottom of this web page ( http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm ), is this:


    FORD AOD Automatic Overdrive
    ROD TYPE-TV ADJUSTMENT

    1. Remove the air cleaner. Have someone floor the gas pedal from inside the car while you bend the THROTTLE cable bracket until the butterfly arm bottoms solidly on it's stop.
    2. Turn the adjustment screw IN until 13 threads are sticking out the front of the adjuster arm. (Approx. 7/16")
    3. Start the engine with the AIR OFF and leave it OFF.
    4. While the engine is idling, loosen the adjustment bolt on the arm on the side of the transmission with a 13mm socket one full turn. Push the arm up (towards the top of the vehicle) and gently tighten the bolt.
    5. Now go back to the top adjustment and back off 13 turns.
    6. Now ROAD TEST. Place the selector in the '3' position and cruise at 45 mph. Floor the throttle, you will have no 3-2 kickdown. Turn the adjuster screw in exactly one turn at a time until you have kickdown at 45 mph. Then, turn the screw in 3 more turns. You will be in the middle of the TV adjustment.
    7. Now ROAD TEST for shift feel and timing. You can adjust in or out up to 2 turns to improve shift quality.
    8. Replace the air cleaner.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  10. #10

    Default

    no, you have to be able to check the transmission pressure. you said 'bent' That might cause problems since the transmission won't be getting the correct feedback for throttle position.

  11. #11

    Default

    Knowing what we know, that there shouldn't be any "TV" actuation at idle, and minus the monitoring of pressure, common sense says to me to condense the rather convoluted procedure I posted above, and to simply remove the rod off of it's throttle body stud, and adjust whatever is adjustable until the rod, gently pulled upward/forward, slips straight back onto the stud easily without any pull or push... with the car off, so that the throttle body is known to be at idle...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    721

    Default

    This is the pressure method.
    https://static.summitracing.com/glob...tci-431000.pdf

    I just have an old oil pressure gauge in my garage that I use for this. It really isn't hard to check and set, but I've never worked with the rod setup before.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  13. #13

    Default

    I have done what walking tall describes and it works but when I got it to the shop it was at a much higher pressure than it should have been, which is better than the other way. I like it shifting a little hard and late with a noticeable down shift. If I remember correctly that meant low throttle shift out of first around 10 to 15 mph. Once you get the setting correct on the transmission there is a small set screw at the cfi that will allow you to stiffen up the shifting to your hearts content but just don't go the other way.

  14. #14
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    harrisburg oregon
    Posts
    37

    Default

    I will try that method that walking tall describes when I get a chance but that more info than I could find on the web and I did a lot of searching. I seen alot with the cable version but not much with th rod version so this info helps a bunch thank you much.

  15. #15

    Default

    Yeah, everybody goes to the cable since you only have a couple of fuel delivery options with the rod.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •