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Thread: Water Pump Leak

  1. #1

    Default Water Pump Leak

    I just had a new engine installed with a new water pump. I have less than 1300 miles on it and water pump is leaking significantly. If I remember correctly, there are 2 bolts that are supposed to have teflon tape. Is this correct? And which 2 are they?

    I appreciate the help guys.

    Brant

    1985 Mustang GT

  2. #2

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    After searching the internet all I found is some people recommend rtv or permatex thread sealer on all the bolts. Does this sound right?

  3. #3

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    So it's leaking from the gasket area, and not the weep hole, or the shaft seal?...

    The bolt/stud treatment for V8 water pump installation is "lightly oil all bolts"... 12-18ft-lbs... under or over-tightened or no gasket goo on the gasket might be an issue... since none of the bolts/studs go through-hole into "water"...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 02-15-2018 at 08:31 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  4. #4

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    Yes, I always use a sealant on the bolt threads. I don't remember which ones, but if that's where the water is coming from, that should cure it.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member
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    Oatey paste thread sealer on the bolt's threads and lots of anti-seize on the shaft...and I personally like to get them mixed in the process..never an issue.
    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  6. #6

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    Looks like it's dripping from bottom of water pump, I would guess gasket. I don't know what the mechanic did as far as torque or thread sealant. He is supposed to re do it next week so I was just trying to find any helpful info.

    Thanks Guys
    Brant

  7. #7

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    If you get a chance, Brant, put it up onto ramps and warm it up. Warmed up well will pressurize the cooling system, and you should be able to clearly see where coolant is coming from laying underneath it...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    If you get a chance, Brant, put it up onto ramps and warm it up. Warmed up well will pressurize the cooling system, and you should be able to clearly see where coolant is coming from laying underneath it...
    OK, I will definitely do that, frustrating having to do this when the whole thing is new, Lol.

  9. #9
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    I feel your pain, it took me a few tries to get the water pump sealed with the right amount of rtv on the gaskets.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Get everything as clean as possible. Use a high quality sealer applied in a thin even coat to both sides of the gaskets or all surfaces. Let it set up so it's tacky before you tighten the bolts anything past lightly finger tight. Use a thread sealing torque assisting lube with anti-seize on all bolts. Torque everything down evenly in a torque pattern and do not over tighten.

    mileage varies on if you can get away with changing a water pump without disassembling and resealing the front cover also. I've had luck leaving the cover alone numerous times, just have to be extra careful when separating the pump so you don't disturb anything you don't need to take apart. Light but purposeful taps with a hammer on the butt of a screw driver or pry bar situated to only clobber the pump works wonders usually.

    good luck!

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Hand torquing critical items requiring specific torque, without using a torque wrench, is a guess.
    I feel it is a must tool to use when doing a job like this correctly.
    Get fasteners tight to spec without damage.
    Can make a difference between a leaky or dry result.

    Recently did a new thermo housing. Perfectly cleaned block surface, premium Fel-Pro gasket.
    Bolts were as tight as i dared to go guessing.
    Seeped coolant.
    Decided to dig out the torque wrench to see where i was at.
    The final step only added a couple pounds to where it was, but did the trick.
    Even at, what 22#? per shop manual, was way more tight than i thought it could take safely without damage.
    Last edited by gr79; 02-17-2018 at 03:03 AM.

  12. #12

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    I have also fought with a couple leaks on these...even when installing a new pump.

    One time was a cracked pump housing (possibly overtightened?) and only leaked under pressure and I couldn't really see it till I crawled under the car while it was running.

    The other leak was caused by an improper gasket/seal on the backing plate which caused it to escape out the two holes behind the pump onto the top of the timing cover and onto the floor (my favorite places to see green liquid...) I think there are a couple different options for backing plate gaskets to be aware of. The last time I sealed it up I did not have an extra plate gasket so just used light bead of Ultrablack on all faces of the pump and backing plate and pressed together with good success so far.

    Hope that helps.

  13. #13

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    Thanks guys, I appreciate the info and am going to try to get it done this week

    Brant

  14. #14

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    Never used a torque wrench, never had one leak unless the pump was bad. The outside four long bolts go through to the timing chain cover then the block. I usually just use a light bead of rtv on the gasket to hold it in place, then I stick two long bolts in with the pump. After that I finger tight everything and then hit em all with a ratchet, making sure to make a clicking noise on final torque.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Torque wrenches are only okay before extra oil and sealant are added. After addition, the torque wrench no longer can pick up bolt thread to thread contact. This is why initial "trail" checking should be done with out sealant or over oiled threads. Torque wrenches help only when the threads are clear of ecxessive oil, or have no RTV on 'em.


    Even the angle after seating rules guys use for diesel head gaskets or Boss 429 con rod bolts don'twork for the water pump bolts.






    These are the bolt positions, what changes is the water pump to housing bolt positions. The block to timing cover bolts are common to all in the 221/255/260/289/302/342/351 (3.6/4.2/4.3/4.7/5.0/5.6/5.8 ) Windsor Over head Valve familys.

    Everything on 5.0 and 5.8 so called OHV Windsor design engines is interchangable, but the timing cover varies.

    Ford made some drastic changes in the engine alloy timing cover s 40 year life, but the actuaul backing section of the timing cover has stud positions that line up on. Some water pumps differ a lot.


    The last engines were potentailly the most compct, despite all the extra sensors. The last Explorer front cover allowed a much shorter water pump to be used. Just make sure you have the right water pump.

    See JACooks resposes if you have a pump compatabilty issue.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...2-water-pump-s

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    ...........................

    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    .........
    You do not need to change the timing cover on anything '93 or older. The standard and
    reverse rotation timing covers are not different where the water pump bolts on.

    Other than

    the change to the front-side crank seal, and

    the deletion of the fuel pump pad,

    the change to the dipstick location

    the timing cover on my '93 LX is the same as the timing cover on my '79 Fairmont.


    .....and you can also include the timing cover on my '68...

    This is my '93 LX's timing cover-



    And this is my '93 with a standard-rotation '68 pump bolted to it (notice the passenger-side inlet)-


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