Close



Results 1 to 25 of 25

Thread: 302 or 351w?

  1. #1
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    106

    Default 302 or 351w?

    Hello, new member here and also new to the world of fox body mustangs. Recently bought a 84.5 Gt t-top mustang to restore with my 16 year old son( he's a huge mustang fan). Car is a little rough and needs some tlc but for the most part the body and the motor were solid. Previous owner took the 302 out as it was leaking coolant from a bad head gasket. Anyways my son and i and my brother have stripped the motor down to block and were going to rebuild it and possibly stroke it to a 331 until i started looking into doing a 351w swap. At first it seemed like a no brainer and we even scored one out of a 89 f-150 for free but now looking a little more at it it might be more of a pain in the ass and more costly. This is my first restoration of a car so I don't have that much knowledge when it come to all this stuff. Interior work I can handle, motors not so much. We are not really wanting a 500hp powerhouse since it's going to be a street car (for now)but we would like it to have at least 350hp and be a fun little car to drive. It will be driven by my my son 90% of the time.

    So I guess my question is to you all. Which way would you guys go with this car? Also what is going to be more cost effective the 302 or 351w?

    Thanks and looking forward to learning all about 4 eyed foxes from you all. I'm going to need all the help I can get lol

    Name:  20180119_151518.jpg
Views: 201
Size:  76.8 KB
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 02-13-2018 at 08:40 PM.

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,584

    Default

    Congrats on the new to you Mustang and Welcome to FEP!

    As someone that has done the 351W swap before, I will give my .02 worth. Getting 350 HP out of a 302 is possible, but definitely pushing the limits. Obviously stroking a 302 to 331 or 347 gives you a bit more to get to that 350 HP rating with a milder setup in most cases.

    The 351W can definitely hit the 350 HP mark and generally in a milder setup than a comparable 302/331/347 in many cases. The disadvantage to the 351W is that requires specific headers, flywheel, A/C bracket, oil pan, and a few other items to fit in the Mustang. All the parts are available so you don't have to do custom work, but in many cases these are additional parts to buy over the stock original Mustang parts that you may already have.

    The 351W makes more torque in most cases than a 302/331/347 so that can cause transmission issues, especially with a T5 and even more so with a non WC T5 that would have been standard in a 1984.5 GT. The 351W can also be more brutal on the OEM 7.5" rear differential if you are able to get the power back to the rear axle. So again there are two more items that might require replacements or upgrades if going the 351W option.

    You don't state if the Mustang is for you, your son, both, etc. If for your son, I would seriously consider giving a 16 year old a Fox Mustang with 350 HP. Maybe your son is an excellent driver and has the skills, abilities, and the maturity to handle it, I have no idea. The issue I will warn against is that the Mustang in mostly stock condition can be a hand full for an inexperienced driver with @ double the OEM HP available. These cars don't have traction control, anti-lock brakes, launch control nor many of the other safety improvements of current vehicles. In many ways that makes them a blast to drive and reasons why so many of us love them, but again for a novice that can be an issue.

    I would personally recommend sticking with the 302 or a stroker 302 based. Going with a roller block 302 setup may give you some benefits to achieving your HP goals. Otherwise you can do a roller conversion if $$ allows. A flat tappet cam works just fine, but will require a bit more aggressive profile to reach your goals. The other main reason for sticking with a 302 based engine is that it will allow you an easier build IMHO as that is what the Mustang came with and doesn't require any special or unique parts to make it all work. That can help save you time and money and get the car back on the road much sooner. Hope that helps some. I am sure others will post up shortly with their advice and thoughts.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  3. #3
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Thanks for the quick answer and advice! The car is technically both of ours but he will be driving it 90% of the time. So if I just kept stock 302 block and got it cleaned decked and honed.Added new pistons, rings, gaskets. Put a new cam, heads, intake and carb along with headers/new exhaust what type of hp could we honestly get out of the engine?

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    567

    Default

    I completely agree with everything Trey says there, especially the part about reconsidering that much power for a younger driver. You mention you're new to fox Mustangs, let me assure you that you can smoke the tires plenty easily with the stock 200-ish (depending on the year) HP that the car comes with. We see HP ratings on new cars, approaching 300 HP isn't that uncommon anymore, but new cars make most of that power at the top end and it's all damped with computer controls in the engine, brakes and suspension. These Mustangs are, in a word, raw. Awesome, stripped down power and performance, but it takes a steady hand if you're going to drive it hard. When you get towards even 300 HP the car is really, and I mean REALLY fast for a street car. And, despite my affection for these things, they're not very easy to handle in that range either. You also have to start to think about other factors when you load up the car, for instance the stock brakes probably aren't sufficient if you're going to use that kind of power. You might need to consider switching to 5-lug for better brakes, wheels and tires. I'm not trying to be a downer, when I was in high school a kid I grew up with got killed in one of these things because he lost control of it and hit a tree. It happens, and any kid (or adult for that matter) will at some point try to figure out "what it's got" and can get hurt.

    My advice would be to do a mild build on a 302 at first, simple stuff like cam, intake, heads, exhaust. I think you'll find it's plenty, and you can always add on to it later if you want. Let him grow into it as he can handle it. Trust me, you'll have a ton of fun working on it with him and driving it with 250-275 HP will get your attention and be a great memory for him and you. Good luck!

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,584

    Default

    Heads, cam, carb, and intake are going to really determine what power level the engine is capable of.

    Assuming stock parts with 9.0 compression and a street friendly cam you are probably looking at 225-250 HP. Could be more or less, but consider that stock the GT should have been 175HP IIRC. The stock 85 with the roller cam jumped to 210HP so you can see what a benefit that can be alone.

    If you install some good heads, intake, and a quality cam, here is a great source http://www.flowtechinduction.com/ford-2/ then you can probably be more in the 275-325 HP range again depending on cam specs, head flow, etc.

    Ethyl Cat is a member here that is an excellent source for engine recommendations. Hopefully he will chime in here and correct any of my misinformation. You might also consider sending him a PM and ask for some advice and recommendations. Best of Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Waikoloa , Hawaii
    Posts
    1,838

    Default

    I've had bone stock 302s to 900hp blown 418w hot rods.. My current 86 has a pretty well stock 302, and it's the most enjoyable Mustang I've driven in a LONG time.. Even gets 20 mpg..
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  7. #7

    Default

    I would just rebuild that 302 and get the car running, your son learns to drive it and you can make improvements to it later. Like brakes, rear etc.

    And now when you already have that 351, build it slowly with your son to whatever goal you set, and build some trans too, so when the car is ready for bigger power you have complete package to drop in.

    I was 19 when I found myself upside down in my foureye, and it was only v6. Summertires and snow wasn't the best combination, but I didn't figure it until it was too late. We always have to pay for learning.

  8. #8
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Thanks everyone for all the info and advice. After reading everyone's thoughts I think we are just going to do a mild 302 build and save the 351 for when we are both ready for it(if ever). Another question I have is if we want to convert 302 to roller what do we all Need besides roller cam? Linked roller lifters?
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 02-14-2018 at 07:11 AM.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    4,072

    Default

    In my opinion the 302 build would be much more cost effective, and given what you've told us I think it's definitely the way to go. If I were starting with a bare block as I take it you are, I would stroke it instead of doing a stock 302 build since I don't feel buying a stroker kit is all that much more than the stock parts, and the machine work costs the same either way. If you build a 331 or 347 even if you don't go top of the line with the heads, cam and intake at this point you still have a solid foundation to build on later. I don't think I'd even want to max out the power on it right away for a 16 year old driver. Not saying your son isn't responsible but a high power Mustang can be a handful for a rookie driver.

    Having done the 351, actually 408 build I can attest to the fact that it cost a lot more than I estimated going in. I was racing the car at the time and went with the bigger motor because it could run the number I wanted at lower rpms which should make it more durable. I'm not racing anymore and have no use for it's power on the street. The secondaries haven't been open once since I was last at the track 4 years ago.
    Last edited by mmb617; 02-14-2018 at 07:26 AM.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  10. #10
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,584

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    Thanks everyone for all the info and advice. After reading everyone's thoughts I think we are just going to do a mild 302 build and save the 351 for when we are both ready for it(if ever). Another question I have is if we want to convert 302 to roller what do we all Need besides roller cam? Linked roller lifters?
    Roller cam conversion for the early blocks can be done with stock roller lifters, spider, and a small base circle roller camshaft. You will also need custom length pushrods to make it all work. Some don't like the small base circle camshafts, but they seem to be reliable in all but hard racing environments in my experience.

    The more expensive, although some argue, better option is aftermarket roller lifters (Comp Cams, etc.) with matching camshaft and required pushrods. Unfortunately that can get expensive quickly. I personally am debating the same issue with my 82 RS. I love the benefits of a roller cam, but I want to keep the original block to the car, but I want more streetable power. I personally am leaning heavily towards a custom flat tappet camshaft from Flow Tech Induction that gives me all the power my combo can make, while still keeping the car very streetable and reliable. Realistically I am probably looking at no more than 250HP, but considering my 82 RS was 157 from the factory that will be a huge improvement. The Capri won't be any street racer, but I want it to be a nice fun driver and cruiser. Enough power to get up and go, but don't need to burn the tires off of it at every stop light. I have other Four Eyes that can take care of that for me. Best of Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Waikoloa , Hawaii
    Posts
    1,838

    Default

    I'd never go with a small base circle cam and convert the block by drilling it VS. standard cam lobe and link bar lifters.. Considering the cost of the special cut cam, and the lower prices now days for link bar hydraulic roller lifters, it's not much of a difference.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  12. #12

    Default

    The 351w will make the same power, but at a lower rpm if you use all stock parts. I dont see why everyone is against it.

    The "special" flywheel isn't needed, the 302 was made in both 28oz and 50oz weights and bolts right on, so do the motor mounts, bell housing, heads, everything but the intake and maybe the exhaust.

    Overall, I'd just drop the 351 in and call it a day. It won't hurt anything. Quite a few cars came with the 7.5 rear. I've owned seriously 15 of them, 11 were v-8's and I've never broken one, even with a lot of miles. The real weak link is in the spider gears and traction lock setup. If its an open diff, you have nothing to worry about imho.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Waikoloa , Hawaii
    Posts
    1,838

    Default

    ^ Only problem I have with that is 302 parts make 302 power.. You leave that stock 351w in there, you're making no more power than a 302, and you've spent the extra money on the specific parts.. Granted, if a heads / cam / intake upgrade are in your future, sure drop it in now and collect parts. Do yourself a favor and get a F4TE roller capable 351w if so. You can possibly even find a 1st gen Lightning engine with GT40 heads and GT40 intake - but you'll pay a premium.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  14. #14

    Default

    The lightning intake really isn't all that special.

    I knew a guy with a 351w in a maverick, he went from the lightning intake to a stock truck intake and supposedly made more power. He was running in the low 7's in the 1/8 with almost stock everything but a cam.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    2,869

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    The 351w will make the same power, but at a lower rpm if you use all stock parts. I dont see why everyone is against it......

    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    ^ Only problem I have with that is 302 parts make 302 power.. You leave that stock 351w in there, you're making no more power than a 302, and you've spent the extra money on the specific parts.. Granted, if a heads / cam / intake upgrade are in your future, sure drop it in now and collect parts. Do yourself a favor and get a F4TE roller capable 351w if so. You can possibly even find a 1st gen Lightning engine with GT40 heads and GT40 intake - but you'll pay a premium.
    Aggree with both of you.

    The TOTAL go FORward is to make the 351W the engine it was back in 69.

    The real trick with the 351 is finding the parts that replicate the high compression Autoilite 480 4-bbl carbed 1969 M code 290 hp 4V Windsor 351, and the related Shelby intake, 585 cfm 390 GT carbed and modified 300 hp with the OZ 290/290 camshaft. Those engines weren't found in anything like the numbers of Clevelands, but the big valve 4V head specification was exceptional, and even without headers (especailly without tubing headers), they had a 185 cfm intake head, and the best intake around was the Buddy Bar alloy 4-bbl intake.

    The first 1969 351W was initially a virile 4V engine with C9-OZ-6250-A, 256/270 degree at lash cam in the 4V 290 hp and 2V 250 hp version. The export 351 W 4V had the C9-OZ-6250-C cam, a Shelby Cobra 290/290 degree cam.

    Everything 1970 to 1985 missed out on the 1969 goodies. Ford additionally made the downgrade to 302W heads on the 1978 351W engines to get the Secondary AIR system the D8 302 W (5.0) heads had. People didn't realise, it wasn't because of valve recession that they downgraded the valve sizes to 302 size, but an attempt to shorten inventories. IMHO, The GT40 and GT40P are the only valid low cost replacements for a Fox 351 W. Internal primary AIR is a feature of the GT40 non P three eye brow heads, so its a direct Fox 4.2/5.0 style emissions compatable head.

    You only do this if you can pick them up in good condition, complete. They both have production reliabilty, and replacement parts supply. Alloy heads can far exceed what C9, or three or Four Eye brow GT 40 and GT 40P's can do, but there is an easy 335 hp net hiding in each one. The 185 cfm air flow figures peak out at 4600 rpm on a 351.86 cubic inch engine. GT40P's were CNC Machined by Yella Terra in Australia, and they flowed about 213 cfm, enough for power to 5250 rpm with a cam only a little wilder than the 1993 Cobra roller cam.

    Head modifications have an end goal of 185 cfm at 28 " H20 at about 500 thou lift.

    Heads have to be brought back to C9 351W 4V flow and compression by shaving to make an 8.5 Dynamic Compression Ratio, and the camshaft has to equal the 1969 over counter Shelby bump stick.

    That wild 351W 4V C9-OZ-6250-C cam was designed for the ultimate in economy free flow exhausts...iron headers. Scott Drake C5ZZ-9430/1-B Mustang Exhaust Manifold are reproductions of the original cast iron exhaust manifolds on 1965-67 K-code Mustangs and also 1967 Shelby GT-350 cars.

    These new reproductions have part numbers cast in C4ZE-9430-A Pass C30Z-9431-A Driver side.


    Then you find a modern 12 bolt non EO, non emissions intake that won't fail a visual inspection. It is therfore a quasi approved 4V intake manifold which does the same job as the 16 bolt Buddy Bar or 80's Offenhauser 360 and Holley Street Master 300-61 and 300-71 Executive Order intakes,

    but takes the 4-bbl EGR port, and fits the two emissions legal carbs for 351 Fords from 1976-1989...the 4180/4190/4195 Holley 4-bbl from the GT 5.0'S or F truck or E vans....or the Carter 9600 series Thermoquad, from one of two sources. It has a full list of visual adjusments here.

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    ......

    There is a common #6545S 850 cfm 1-1/2" primary version used in 1975 360 LA and 440 RD engines. There were 9000 to 9800 part numbers from 1976-1984.

    1975 360LA Mopars in # 9004, 850-cfm form.

    See http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-...ad-carburetor/

    See the reveal all Mopar details

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sv8ggASU1jE


    Part 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzNhCLg9veg&app=desktop
    Part 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huzO53WB_1c
    Part 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8CnQWTUSNU
    Part 4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrpUnviQp5k <----Very important cruise economy details
    Part 5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9LUcYx2dEc
    Part 6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dwh6SQ7kV6E
    Part 7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZz6d1u9h08
    Part 8. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vQTEbLlkqM
    Part 9. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kZnyWOXeF8 <----Very important Float setting details
    Part A. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moRAefFzX2Q
    Part B. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sw_xH7dKmOI
    Part C. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMEY40pKwzQ
    Part D. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJTtqJTpTqw
    Part E. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzAX0GZLkIg
    Part F. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6f2Ds5evNY
    Part G. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqyzvydzcwM
    Part H. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukjI6ltgXuU
    Part I . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zc9TQm-cP18
    Part J . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqD0Jdf9ZRE
    Part K. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaX97l4VQQQ
    Part L . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJt9kvu0y0Y
    Part O. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa_Gi73z-6k
    Part M. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CY7etRxavk

    Its basically a pumped up Rochester QuadraJet 4MV or Motorcraft 4350 750 cfm unit with some seriously cool stuff in the 1978-1984 ELB ( Electronic Lean Burn ) era versions, namely a throttle position sensor!

    1. Mopar LA or RB engines, where they came equiped after 1981 with electric bowl vents and then later primary Mixture Control Solenoids which can be jumpered to become a Ford 5.0/5.8 style BV (Bowel Vent in VECI vernacular).

    2. 1976-1985 Aussie Bronco, F truck, Falcon/Fairmont/Fairlane/LTD or deTomaso Longchamps or Pantera with 4BBL 302C or 351C.

    The Edelbrock 3783 for Ford's 351ci Windsor V8 is a 3721 5.0 designed for the 5.8. Designed for street Ford 351 Windsors with EGR port. This intake manifold is primarily for Truck and Van 351-W 4V H.O. V8s; 1984-86. Includes provision for EFE valve on H.O. engines. http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/3783/10002/-1

  16. #16

    Default

    "Internal primary AIR is a feature of the GT40" could you explain that Xctasy? Is this something associated with the thermactor system?

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    2,869

    Default

    Yeah, its the ported lines from the back of the head. The 3 eye brow GT40 heads had the 1978 system, after OBDII and 1996, the Explorer GT40P's had no lines to the back of the head, so the GT40's are a more standard to Fox Thermactor system.

    Due to the way the drilling is placed, you'd have a hard time pilot drilling a set of GT40P heads to replicate the 1978-1995 5.0 system unless you had some great drilling gear.

    Thermactor system from 1978 onwards on the Small block Windsor based engines (Not the Cleveland and 351M's or 400's) progressed to the hard to clean rear supply line.



    "The crossover ports are at the back of the heads, and commonly are blocked up, and don't be supprised if a head needs removal to service it. "

    The four element Secondary AIR system is separate, but nothing works in isolation. The heated air verses Fresh air supply from the priority system that is driven by the Air Pump.

    10-30-2017, 10:25 AM #2 from http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...eed-parts-info

    Starting 1978, and taking about 10 years to perfect, everything was progressing to this system, the 5.0 was the first to adopt it.

    EEC cars were designed around the Primary and dpending on how it was decribed, a Secondary AIR system, with (eventually) fully Electronic control of the EGR systems the final goal.

    http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/..._Schematic.jpg

    and

    http://www.cjponyparts.com/skin/fron...h_FBengine.jpg

    1, 2, 14, 18, 20. 41, 43, 49, 50, 51, 52 and 53 are the critical EGR related parts.
    1. Thermactor Air Diverter Solenoid (TAD) - Directs thermactor air from the rear of the cylinder heads to the exhaust H pipe after warm up
    2. Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid (TAB) - Vents thermactor air during periods when it is not needed (primarily cold starts)
    14. Thermactor Bypass Valve - Directs the flow of air supplied by the thermactor (fresh air) pump
    18. Canister Purge Solenoid - Allows fuel vapors from the carbon canister to enter the intake manifold
    20. Thermactor Air Pump - Delivers high volume, low pressure fresh air to the exhaust system
    41. VIP Test Connectors - computer test ports
    43. Vacuum Distribution Tee - From left to right the connections are: vacuum source (intake manifold), unused, vacuum reservoir, speed control servo (if equipped with cruise), power brake booster
    49. EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid - Controls the vacuum which opens the EGR valve
    50. EGR Valve and EGR Position Sensor - Allows exhaust gases to enter the intake passage during various engine speeds. Reports valve position to computer
    51. EGR Spacer - Provides a hot gas passage to and from the EGR valve
    52. EGR Coolant Hoses - Circulates coolant through the EGR spacer
    53. Throttle Position Sensor - Relates the percentage of throttle opening to the computer

  18. #18
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    106

    Default

    I think I'm more confused then ever now lol. I think we are just going to clean deck and hone block add a new flat tappet cam, port the stock heads, add a new intake and use stock 4 barrel carb along with new exhaust. Car needs a lot of other things that are going to cost a fair chunk of money too so I think this is the best way to go.

  19. #19

    Default

    Frequently you can order reman 302 for a 1987-1993 Mustang at the McParts store and satisfy the core charge by returning just about any old 302. Just strip it down to the bare bones of a shortblock or longblock first.

    Most of the reman guys flat don't care. There is getting to be a real shortage of the older small base circle flat tappet cam blocks as Ford stopped making them way back in 1984.

    Win/win

    The only down side is if that was the original motor you're going to hurt the value of your car by not just rebuilding it.

  20. #20
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Frequently you can order reman 302 for a 1987-1993 Mustang at the McParts store and satisfy the core charge by returning just about any old 302. Just strip it down to the bare bones of a shortblock or longblock first.

    Most of the reman guys flat don't care. There is getting to be a real shortage of the older small base circle flat tappet cam blocks as Ford stopped making them way back in 1984.

    Win/win

    The only down side is if that was the original motor you're going to hurt the value of your car by not just rebuilding it.
    Thanks for the reply. It is the original 84 302 that came with the car.

  21. #21

    Default

    AutoZone and orileys no longer sell remain blocks. Sunmit racing used to for about $899 with no core, but shipping was $400 without a business or loading dock.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  22. #22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    ... I think we are just going to clean deck and hone block add a new flat tappet cam, port the stock heads, add a new intake and use stock 4 barrel carb along with new exhaust. Car needs a lot of other things that are going to cost a fair chunk of money too so I think this is the best way to go.
    ^ Sounds like a great plan
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  23. #23

    Default

    MIght as well add my two cents.

    I run a stock block in my '84. It has E7 heads, four barrel dual plane intake, holley 600 (tuned properly the old school way), headers and a 2" exhaust out the back. It dyno'd at 210 HP and 215Torque. The torque curve was very flat and you can drop the clutch at anything over 1800rpm and smoke the tires till you lift. I still have the stock clutch and 7.5 rearend. I have no worry's about breaking them.

    Is it the fastest car on earth? No way but every time I take it for a drive I come back with a silly smile on my face. Wife busted me once for my foot slipping off the clutch at a red light (at least that's what I told her). I had no idea she was out running errands..

    And to let the other members know I am probably almost old enough to be your father! I test drove an 84 GT convertible and came so close to buying it , but didn't have the money back then
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  24. #24

    Default

    gt4494, I test drove a 1983 turbo Mustang new from the dealer. It was fairly impressive, I remember it handled well, but after I thrashed it on a test drive, there was some steam rising from the hood. Forgive me, I was just checking it out!!! I ended up waiting and buying a new 1995 Mercury Crimson Cat with a 210 horse V8, (I might have the factory sticker laying around here somewhere). Ectasy, very good post, you also remind me of a race I'll never forget. I had a 1965 Mustang 2 + 2 Fastback, (still have it), 289, 3.50 gears, 289 with a High Energy 268H cam, Edelbrock Torker, 4 speed side loader, stock heads and my brother had a stock 1969 351W Mach 1, auto, probably 3.31 gear. My Mustang was a low 14 second ride, ran well, but he won the race. His 290 horse fell my probably around 270ish, and all he had to do was punch it. Non power adder, cubic inches carried the day. Disclaimer, I do not endorse street racing! Today!

  25. #25

    Default

    The GT40 3 brows I just put on didn't have the thermactor ports on the back (F3ze). Doesn't matter to me since I am in NY and I will just keep the pump hooked up to the cats.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •