Donor car for 5-lug conversion

[devittjl]

Quick Question....
Would I be able to use this car as a donor for a F/R 5-lug conversion for my 82 Capri RS?

Thanks in advance for the help!

https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/c...489501877.html

[KevinVarnes]

You could definitely use that for a front and rear five lug conversion. You can use the rearend as-is with the SN95 axles. If you want to retain the fox track width in the rear then you will need the shorter axles and you will have to figure out what to do for rear disc brake axle brackets (either the cut, flip, and mount the stock brackets method or North Racecars brackets). On the front you can use the spindles, brakes, and control arms if you want or just the spindles and brakes. There is plenty of good info in the suspension and brake forum and on Maximum Motorsports' website for this.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...4_spindle.aspx

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te..._arm_swap.aspx

Looking at those tail lights you should make sure it is indeed a 1995. I thought those had the horizontal stripe tail lights, but I could be wrong. I don't know Mustangs of that era very well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-1995-FOR...0AAOSwPGpafO0U

[Ourobos]

Front is is exactly what you want, you'll need a cheap passenger side brake line adapter to retain your fox soft lines up front.

On the rear I'd avoid using the whole axle, as going disc isn't a quick easy swap, you booster and master cylinder may not be up to the task, plus I'd recommend a rear proportioning valve as well. You can rob the rear axles and drums, but the width is 3/4" wider per side, so you'd want a wheel with a deeper backspacing for it to fit properly.

Those front components are $150 pretty much, if you can source rear ranger / aerostar axles and drums for about the same, it might be a better way.

[2nd chance cobra]

I used ALL of it on my build. It all goes right in. From the master cylinder right onto your booster to the 5 speed, spindles and rear end. Make sure to get the e brake bracket off of the sn body. Better yet keep it around till you are done. You can get short iso flare pipe, cut it in half and re flare the other ends to go to your prop valve. Don't forget the prop valve mod and an adjustable one check my build alot of it is on there

[dagenham]

The booster will fit but you have to wallow out one hole and then you can use the whole master cylinder and booster assembly. Keep in mind this is a v6 car. The booster and master cylinder is the same as the v8 GT cars but different than The Cobra setup due to the larger rotors and different calipers on the front. I bought a metric bubble flaring tool and made all new lines under the hood. The tool isnt expensive either. With that I was able to make custom lines with a metric bubble flair on one end and an inverted standard flare on the other end. That way you can use the factory sn95 prop valve too. If you use the factory sn95 prop valve you will have to buy a tee fitting. The fox setup has two lines from the fox prop valve to each front wheel and the sn95 has one line going from the prop valve to a tee that splits to each front wheel and then one line from the valve to the line that goes to rear.
For the rear I just swapped axles and found a pair of nos motorsport brackets. Then I made new hard lines across the axle from side to side using the sn95 factory hoses doing what I did up front making hybrid steel lines.
I have run this setup trouble free for about eight years now and love the better brakes. I feel using as much of the factory parts as possible is the best way to go when doing this conversion.
Sorry for the lenghty post.

[erratic50]

M1858 master cyl is way easier and perfect with SN95 brakes with stock fox booster imo.

works great with either 99-04 calipers and 11" or 99-04 cobra and 13".

adjustable proportioning valve is a must. And eliminate stock or get a plug

[2nd chance cobra]

Oh and get the rear soft hose bracket off the body. I don't mean to dispute anyone that has used the sn booster, but I believe ther are some subtle differences in the 79 82 strut towers. It was absolutely not going to fit mine without some hammer work. If it fits yours great! Tolerances were pretty wide back then.

[erratic50]

2nd chance - how did you come out on alignment on you Cobra?

[2nd chance cobra]

Camber bolts got it right... well I would have preferred a little more caster but it's ok. We didn't even move the cradle around. Is it ready for the track? Maybe not but it drives pretty well. Just need to put the new springs on the back, lx springs, and the adjustable prop valve. Then see if those monster wheels will clear.

[dagenham]

Yes. I had to use a torch to heat the upper rear corner of the strut tower to clear the cobra booster.

[2nd chance cobra]

Camber bolts got it right... well I would have preferred a little more caster but it's ok. We didn't even move the cradle around, everything is pretty centered. Is it ready for the track? Maybe not but it drives pretty well. Just need to put the new springs on the back, lx springs, and the adjustable prop valve. Then see if those monster wheels will clear.

[erratic50]

Sorry to hijack the thread. Yea, caster is always a problem. I can see where pushing the front wheels out 3/4" on each side would make it hard to shove the struts back all the way. Wide trackwidths do handle better if you can get the wheels to fit.....