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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default Window regulator arm rollers

    I'm looking to finish up my doors and getting the power windows to function properly is my last project.

    I ordered this NOS regulator arm roller on ebay
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-81-82-...19.m1438.l2649

    but when I look at the aftermarket version on LMR and all the other parts sites they appear to have a movable knuckle allowing them to articulate when the regulator arm moves. The NOS part is solid and does not articulate
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-1160/mustan...er-guide-79-93

    So now I'm confused as to whether I should stick with the NOS part which to me looks destined to bind up in the track, or the aftermarket part that looks like it will move easier but no doubt is made from inferior plastics as is the case with Daniel Carpenter repro parts almost always.

    Also, my originals seem to have been factory pressed. Not removable with a nut as all the replacements come with a nut.

    Anybody have experience with these parts?

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    The plastic is a safely measure. Don't do what everyone did to them when they came out in the XC Falcon....cut some alloy bar, and make some crush proof replacments. The only thing I can suggest is a Durometer Shore A reading, which is a device local companies like Richmond wheels have for factory castors. They can measure the hardness of the plastic. The hardr it is, the more it should last.

    They are like that for a reason...safety when some "nong" decides to run the windows up hard against something.

    In an 82 Wheels Magazine article, Noel Tuckey describes the standard alloy bar cut with a band saw replacment process. They were always chopping out, as it was designed for primary safety. A hand crush was eliminated by dropping the hardness of the three rollers so they became what engineers term "frangiable parts". Ford calculated the softeness of the plastic to fail under the load of a kids hand jammed in the top of the window glass, against the roof runner.

    Talk to Rare Spares, its a standard part the world over.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    Most plastic parts for windows are like that.


    Quote Originally Posted by mikes in australia View Post
    All good, many thanks. Ordered Power Window Motor Gear from Rockauto.com, as LMR no longer organise international shipping.
    A utube video showed replacing with 7/16 nylock nuts and another used ball bearings, although they did mention as a temporary fix.
    Thanks again.


    The plastic is a safely measure. Don't do what everyone did to them when they came out in the XC Falcon....cut some alloy bar, and make some crush proof replacments. The only thing I can suggest is a Durometer Shore A reading, which is a device local companies like Richmond wheels have for factory castors. They can measure the hardness of the plastic. The hardr it is, the more it should last.

    They are like that for a reason...safety when some "nong" decides to run the windows up hard against something.

    In an 82 Wheels Magazine article, Noel Tuckey describes the standard alloy bar cut with a band saw replacment process. They were always chopping out, as it was designed for primary safety. A hand crush was eliminated by dropping the hardness of the three rollers so they became what engineers term "frangiable parts". Ford calculated the softeness of the plastic to fail under the load of a kids hand jammed in the top of the window glass, against the roof runner.

    Talk to Rare Spares, its a standard part the world over.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    The plastic is a safely measure. Don't do what everyone did to them when they came out in the XC Falcon....cut some alloy bar, and make some crush proof replacments. The only thing I can suggest is a Durometer Shore A reading, which is a device local companies like Richmond wheels have for factory castors. They can measure the hardness of the plastic. The hardr it is, the more it should last.

    They are like that for a reason...safety when some "nong" decides to run the windows up hard against something.

    In an 82 Wheels Magazine article, Noel Tuckey describes the standard alloy bar cut with a band saw replacment process. They were always chopping out, as it was designed for primary safety. A hand crush was eliminated by dropping the hardness of the three rollers so they became what engineers term "frangiable parts". Ford calculated the softeness of the plastic to fail under the load of a kids hand jammed in the top of the window glass, against the roof runner.

    Talk to Rare Spares, its a standard part the world over.
    the point I was making is that Motorcraft plastic is always harder than Daniel carpenters. Also trying to understand why the Motorcraft original part has no knuckle to allow the part to articulate but the replacement part does.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    The original part looks like it was stamped into the regulator arm. the replacement comes with a nut to fasten it. How am I supposed to get the old one out? drill it out or dremel? has anyone here changed one of these?

    Also,

    Theres 2 parts with the same part number listed on Ebay. One of them can pivot the other is solid. I got the solid one in a NOS box with the correct part number. D6AZ-5323240. But without the pivot it wont work. I looked at the operation of my window and it has to be able to pivot the arm or it will bind or break.

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  6. #6
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Im gonna be tackling the replacement of the window roller arm nuts as soon as winter passes here in NY.

    I don't see any way to remove the old ones

    Any suggestions?

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