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  1. #1

    Question Steeda Front Spring Spacers - question about squeaking

    I’m currently in the process of refreshing my 85’s front suspension. New Koni struts, MM CC plates, MM Urethane Spring Isolators, and (probably getting) FRPP front control arms. However, I am keeping my old motorsport B springs – even though I want to raise the front end height a little. I’m keeping them because I know where the suspension will sit (although a touch taller due to new isolators) and I don’t want to get a new surprise, with new springs, after I have everything bolted back together.

    So, if I order the Steeda spring spacers to raise the height a 1/4 – 1/2 inch, should I be concerned about adding a potential metal to metal squeak? Should I just add my old spring isolator (Energy Suspension if I remember) on top of the new MM isolator instead? Any other good ideas?

    Thanks,
    Howard

  2. #2

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    *Iirc*, the front end will rise ~~1.9x the height/width of the spacer.

    If you install them like I did, then you won't have any problems with noise.
    You have:
    From the top:

    Strut-Tower
    Spacer
    Isolator
    Spring
    (isolator)
    FCA
    Ground
    Core-of-the-Earth. :-)








    More thumbnails, and bigger pictures of my front spring and isolator install:
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...C-spring-tool/




    Okay, yes, having the car on Earth is optional.
    SCREW YOU ELON MUSK! ;-)
    http://www.motortrend.com/news/tesla...ce-february-6/
    Musk to say farewell to his cherry red Roadster
    Tesla and SpaceX CEO Elon Musk announced the launch of the Falcon Heavy rocket on Twitter back in December. He also revealed that his cherry red Tesla Roadster will serve as payload for the test flight. Just in case we didn’t believe him, he went so far as to post a picture of a Roadster mounted to a pedestal inside the payload fairing. Now, the rocket is set to launch on February 6, beginning the Roadster’s very, very long journey in space.




    Good Luck!

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stangPlus2Birds View Post
    Core-of-the-Earth. :-)
    LOL, thanks for taking me right to the center.

    Thanks for reply stangplus2Birds. I looked at your install pics and I have a couple of questions. 1. I'm assuming you removed all the zip-ties after installation? 2. It looks like you have the low-friction ball joints - do you use SN95 spindles? 3. So the metal washer to metal shock tower doesn't squeak over rough road?

    Looking at your pics with some more detail, I didn't realize the spacer ring (I'm assuming that's a Steeda) is so narrow. It looks like it could fit into the upper isolator itself. I noticed that on my old Energy Suspension isolators, the spring buried itself into the rubber quite a bit. I wonder if the washer would prevent that if I put the washer on top of the spring - but that might surely make some squeaks. Hmm. If it worked for you, I'm going to get a set and install it just as you did. Thanks.

  4. #4

    Default

    All good questions.

    I did not remove the zip ties. No reason to. :-)
    I haven't had any squeaking.
    The spacer and the spring will both dig into the isolator.
    That's another good thing about having the isolator in the middle. :-)

    However, if I was to do it again, I'd likely coat the spacer with some brush-on plasti-dip.
    https://www.amazon.com/Performix-116...dp/B0000DD1PF/



    Or, maybe just use a few rolls of cheap electrical tape.


    Imho, having metal on metal (spacer on K-Frame), especially since they are different metals, is stupid for someone with a degree in structural mechanical engineering (my minor) to do.
    Yea, over the years, I've made more than my fair share of stupid mistakes in both electrical and mechanical areas. :-P But, imho, it also makes me a better overall engineer. :-) Because I try very hard to not make the same mistake twice.
    I also try to "not just do things" as others have said, or I interpreted. But, to also think about what I'm really doing, and if it makes sense, or can be improved upon.


    Iirc, the MR (motion ratio) of the front suspension is ~~0.45. So, that gives an ~~1.9x (most people just say 2x) for any height adjustment, with respect to the springs.

    I was initially going to put the spacer between the spring and the isolator. I think a few people did that (on the corral), or implied that they did that. But, there was so much incorrect info floating around, it's hard to say.

    Also, *I* (we) have a different K-frame/front-cradle than the Aero people.
    Iirc, the top where the spring fits in, is pressed down metal triangles. The fingers are not that long, nor do they offer a lot of area to hold the top of the spring. That also effects how easy it is to put springs in.

    Plus, with the spacer between the spring and the isolator, the spring is, imho, to close to the edge of the isolator. So, the top of the spring was to "close to flush", for my comfort.

    Yes, for the top of the spring, the two stackups are "the same"
    A) isolator, spacer, spring
    B) spacer, isolator, spring

    And, in "A", the spacer would settle into the isolator.
    But, in "A", the spring could slide easily against the spacer (metal on metal).
    And, there wouldn't be any "edge" of the isolator to help keep the spring in place.

    However, in "B" (like I have it), the metal spring will quickly dig into and "bite" into the isolator.
    The metal spring won't move in the pushed in isolator much. There is also the edge/lip of the isolator, to help keep the spring in place.
    No, that lip won't hold back many "Gs" of force. But, again, it's more material for the spring to "dig into" to reduce/prevent slipping.

    Maybe the other stack-up would've been fine with my new poly isolators. But, I felt much better with this stack-up.

    You can better see what I'm talking about in the top of the spring, in the following photo:







    When I did my suspension, I got the new FRPP Fox-FCAs.
    The new FRPP Fox-FCAs came with the newer better ball-joints. Sweet!

    I did use a spacer on the ball joints.
    That's because I have the M2300K kit with a 94/95 spindle, and Fox-spec ball-joints.
    I bought the actual M2300K kit, when Ford still offered it.
    I bought the M2300K kit within a week after my brakes basically did nothing, while I was trying to slow down from a "faster speed" on a "closed private road at least a thousand miles away from any other person or living thing".
    And, all 4 OEM POS brakes were ~2 months old with all new pads, new drums, etc.


    .

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