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  1. #26

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    Ackerman correction is in the pivot arm geometry.

    what you are shooting for is perfect alignment across the entire steering sweep as you go from straight to full left or right. Front tires working together make the drive around the parking lots more enjoyable and also add some badly needed steering authority that becomes extremely evident once the rear oversteer/snap steer is corrected.

    i corrected rear snapsteer on my 86 by removing the rear sway bar and softer 4cyl LX rear springs. It comes close to lifting the inside front tire on hard turns because there is still too much bar in front and it’s now also holding the rear. Very predictable at the edge which is now WAY past anything it would do Stock. Understeer while applying 300lbs of torque or so — what a concept! It used to go in a circle!

    Im adding a panhard to my “85 Saleen 006” build that has full vintage racecraft suspension. Adding Maximum Motorsports upper and lower control arms also. Going to see what better Ackerman and keeping weight on the inside tire does. Should help, and be fun.

  2. #27

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    Hustler ó Glad you like the thread! I felt it was rather overdue. It took me a good long while to gather the info I needed for my car. Hopefully this will save someone time and money.

  3. #28

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    Forgot to say -- yea, stock pads are impossible to get now. They were asbestos. Super great brake material but considered quite hazardous today.

    I wish I would have known when I was a kid and sat there with a snips and drill cutting gaskets out of the stuff for my dad in the garage....

    Or when i helped change umpteen sets of brake pads on cars and trucks pre-1996.

    Or when we would rip flooring out of 100 year old storefronts back in the 80's.

    Even the stock pads do eventually fade though. I used to haul my car down from 140+ a lot because I have a lead foot, and they definitely had their limits. Sometimes the rotors would crack or out-right break from the torture I gave my brakes. The only part of the car that's a bigger joke than the 85 MPH speedometer IMO.

    I'm happy that I learned somewhere the 87-93 4cyl rotors are less massive and retain a LOT less heat than the 1986 rotors did and switched to them early. They were also a LOT cheaper parts too.

    The auto industry sorta silently swapped us all over as we each did brake rotors and pads on our four eyed foxes. You have to really pay attention to detail to even notice some cars like the 1986GT originally had a thicker disc and thinner pad.

  4. #29

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    I believe that jcook the oem ford parts guru used some 10 inch rear drums on his mustang and got very satisfying results. I recall him claiming that theyre as effective on is car as discs. I'm intrigued, because Im not quite sure how far my brake upgrades will be going.

    I just put SVO spindles, 87-93 v8 calipers, hawk pads, stop tech slotted rotors and mm brake lines and caliper sleeves on my 83, and Im very excited to try them out.
    '
    Tony

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by flinfantryrebel View Post
    I believe that jcook the oem ford parts guru used some 10 inch rear drums on his mustang and got very satisfying results. I recall him claiming that theyre as effective on is car as discs. I'm intrigued, because Im not quite sure how far my brake upgrades will be going.

    I just put SVO spindles, 87-93 v8 calipers, hawk pads, stop tech slotted rotors and mm brake lines and caliper sleeves on my 83, and Im very excited to try them out.
    '
    WWould be great to get some comments on a large drum setup that works well in this thread. I know the info is around the FEP site because Iíve read it before.

    On the spindle swap - Awesome! Add some caster/camber plates before you align it if you donít mind their looks. Or some onion heads for a vintage look.

    My 85 is nowhere near ready yet.

    Excited for you!
    Last edited by erratic50; 06-04-2018 at 04:09 AM.

  6. #31

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    One critical measurement I feel is missing from the thread is the 4 lug front rotor depth. What has to be accommodated cap to flange for a wheel to fit? Useful for guys swapping wheels but staying 4 lug.

    One thing I do know — the grease caps on the Fox are a lot taller than they need to be. Back in the day we would take them off and heat them up then smash the end flat from the inside using a socket and a jack or press. Made the cap bigger around on the end but nearly 1/2” shorter. Made all the difference on some of the 4 lug wheels that had a short center cap.

    Same idea as spacers without the effective offset change.

  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    On the spindle swap - Awesome! Add some caster/camber plates before you align it if you don’t mind their looks. Or some onion heads for a vintage look.

    My 85 is nowhere near ready yet.

    Excited for you!
    I actually did use maximum motorsports c/c plates. I also bought their camber gauge. Im comfortable setting toe, but we'll see how well I can do camber...
    Tony

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