Close



Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
Results 126 to 150 of 151
  1. #126

    Default

    Are the brackets steel or aluminum?
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  2. #127
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Are the brackets steel or aluminum?
    Appear to be billet aluminum.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #128

    Default

    I agree that they look like aluminum, but I wasn't sure. If they are aluminum, run away. They will be far too flexible. Being only 0.25" thick, they need to be steel. Even that is going to be about 40% more flexible than the 0.5" thick Ford OEM steel brackets.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  4. #129
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    I agree that they look like aluminum, but I wasn't sure. If they are aluminum, run away. They will be far too flexible. Being only 0.25" thick, they need to be steel. Even that is going to be about 40% more flexible than the 0.5" thick Ford OEM steel brackets.
    I will have to measure them. I don't think they are only 0.25" thick, but I haven't put my hands on them in several months. I will check them out and report back.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #130
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Acworth, GA
    Posts
    1,462

    Default

    Looks like LMR has a new kit as well: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-23207986-K/...rsion-kit-7986
    I'm an FEP Paid Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

    1984 Capri Turbo RS - Alive after 7 years! Build Thread
    2018 Mustang GT - daily driver

  6. #131

    Default

    The LMR kit uses NRC brackets which are 0.25" steel. They are reasonably stiff as they are bent with a 0.75" offset.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  7. #132

    Default

    Wish LMR had come out with that kit sooner, maybe before I bought all new drum brakes

  8. #133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I will have to measure them. I don't think they are only 0.25" thick, but I haven't put my hands on them in several months. I will check them out and report back.
    Please do!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #134
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Also - considering how well Ford did with designing the brake line setup …. Why the hell would anyone change it and make it so when you blow a hose you can’t just buy one for a 94 mustang ?!
    Last edited by erratic50; 03-13-2022 at 02:28 PM.

  10. #135
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    I’d have concerns with trying to get rotors unless someone wants to mainstream the redrilled 4 lug cobra stuff

    the brackets look like they are junk — north race car or originally Ford is advisable

  11. #136
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Considering I only had $450 in an entire 8.8 with 3.55’s and new bearings and the rear disc setup I built using modified SN95 brake brackets calipers and caliper brackets with cougar rotors ….. a $650 kit probably isn’t a bargain

    granted - it is easier than turning down axle ends like I did

    but walk into a parts store and walk out with rotors ready to go on.

    that’s why I personally didn’t go the redrill route

  12. #137
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    If I remember right Devon sold his complete 8.8 drum to drum with 2.73’s for $400 too. Talk about a bargain

  13. #138

    Default

    Another kit out there which is new to me anyway:

    https://foxbodybrakes.com/collections/brake-kits

  14. #139
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Chas. SC
    Posts
    613

    Default

    OK, I've speed read all six pages but want to ask a question from a different direction.

    I want to put a set of Koni shocks on my '84 but they don't make them anymore to fit. Only the 87-93. Has anyone ever thought of having the spindles machined narrower so the 87 - 93 struts will fit?

    It's either this or I might as well replace whole front braking system.

    Yes I realize a new system will greatly enhance braking, but the car isn't really driven hard any more. The current shocks and struts are well used and I've finally reached the point where Konis are affordable. I put them on a diesel New Beetle and was amazed how they worked for everyday driving.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  15. #140
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Chas. SC
    Posts
    613

    Default

    OK, I've speed read all six pages but want to ask a question from a different direction.

    I want to put a set of Koni shocks on my '84 but they don't make them anymore to fit. Only the 87-93. Has anyone ever thought of having the spindles machined narrower so the 87 - 93 struts will fit?

    It's either this or I might as well replace whole front braking system.

    Yes I realize a new system will greatly enhance braking, but the car isn't really driven hard any more. The current shocks and struts are well used and I've finally reached the point where Konis are affordable. I put them on a diesel New Beetle and was amazed how they worked for everyday driving.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  16. #141

    Default

    To modify the spindles, you are going to have to machine 1/8" off of each mounting surface. This means carefully jigging each spindle two times on a mill. This will require two passes on each side. Once with an end mill to cut the surface down, then a second pass to cut a radius into the edge where the new lower surface, meets the old higher surface.

    By the time you are done with all of this, you will still have poor brakes and it will probably cost the same as installing used 1987-93 V8 spindles and brakes. If you find someone doing a 5-lug SN95 spindle swap, you can probably buy all of the parts off of them for $250.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  17. #142
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Chas. SC
    Posts
    613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    To modify the spindles, you are going to have to machine 1/8" off of each mounting surface. This means carefully jigging each spindle two times on a mill. This will require two passes on each side. Once with an end mill to cut the surface down, then a second pass to cut a radius into the edge where the new lower surface, meets the old higher surface.

    By the time you are done with all of this, you will still have poor brakes and it will probably cost the same as installing used 1987-93 V8 spindles and brakes. If you find someone doing a 5-lug SN95 spindle swap, you can probably buy all of the parts off of them for $250.
    Thanks, Good info and a great idea!
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  18. #143
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Decided to revisit this thread. The fact that the only way to get to 4 lug with decent brakes and good Ackerman is SVO/Continental spindles with balljoint adapters bothers me so I decided to start looking for bearing packs that are 4 lug and could work on a 94-95 spindle

    Im in the very early stages of looking but here’s what I’ve found so far

    Hub - Cougar / Contour


    • Warranty: 1 Year Limited Warranty
    • Unit of Measure: Each
    • UPC: # 31447059696
    • Material: Steel
    • ABS Sensor Ring Included: Yes
    • Flange Diameter (in): 5.354 Inch
    • Flange Diameter (mm): 136mm
    • Flange Offset (in): 2.027 Inch
    • Flange Offset (mm): 51mm
    • Hub Pilot Diameter (in): 2.91 Inch
    • Hub Pilot Diameter (mm): 74mm
    • New Or Remanufactured: New
    • Flange Shape: Round
    • Wiring Harness Included: No
    • Greaseable: No
    • Bearing Type: Ball
    • Bolt Circle Diameter (in): 4.250 Inch
    • Inner Ring Width (in): 0.83 Inch
    • Outer Ring Width (in): 2.76 Inch
    • Hub Centerbore Diameter (in): 4.251 Inch
    • Driven Or Non-Driven: Non-Driven
    • Gasket Or Seal Included: Yes
    • ABS Sensor Ring Diameter (in): 3.268 Inch
    • ABS Ring Type: Tone Ring
    • Lug Bolts Included: Yes
    • Number Of ABS Sensor Ring Teeth: 44
    • ABS Sensor Included: No
    • Number Of Mounting Bolts To Knuckle: 4
    • Number Of Lug Bolts Included: 4
    • Lug Bolt Thread Size: M12-1.50
    • Total Hub Diameter (in): 5.354 Inch
    • Total Hub Diameter (mm): 136mm
    • Hub Centerbore Diameter (mm): 108mm
    • Total Hub Height (in): 3.307 Inch
    • Total Hub Height (mm): 84mm
    • Number Of Flange Bolts Included: 4
    • Flange Bolt Size (in): 1.259 Inch
    • Flange Bolt Size (mm): 32mm
    • Flange Bolt Thread Size: M12-1.50



    94-2004 Mustang


    • Warranty: 1 Year Limited Warranty
    • Unit of Measure: Each
    • UPC: # 848074002571
    • Material: Steel
    • ABS Sensor Ring Included: No
    • Flange Diameter (in): 5.472 Inch
    • Flange Diameter (mm): 139mm
    • Flange Offset (in): 1.87 Inch
    • Flange Offset (mm): 47mm
    • Hub Pilot Diameter (in): 3.149 Inch
    • Hub Pilot Diameter (mm): 80mm
    • Wiring Harness Included: No
    • Number Of Splines: 0
    • Bearing Type: Ball
    • Driven Or Non-Driven: Non-Driven
    • ABS Sensor Ring Diameter (mm): 100mm
    • Flange Bolts Included: No
    • Number Of ABS Sensor Ring Teeth: 50
    • ABS Sensor Included: No
    • Number Of Mounting Bolts To Knuckle: 5
    • Number Of Lug Bolts Included: 5
    • Lug Bolt Thread Size: 1/2-20 Inch
    • Total Hub Diameter (in): 5.472 Inch





  19. #144
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Flange offset is probably manageable. 2.027 Cougar vs 1.87 Mustang. Slightly wider track width by 0.157”.

    Caliper location would be indeterminate until a rotor is pinpointed that is similar enough to work with the SN95 front brake caliper or similar

    The hub inner bore on the Cougar hub is too small for the Mustang spindle. Either machine the king pin or open the center bore to clear.

    Worthwhile to look at how SN95 calipers mount vs other types of calipers too. Any time the part says Mustang the price doubles as I’ve proven by my rear brake design and working prototype compared to the kits out there.

  20. #145
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Looks like Cougar front rotor is similar enough to be a direct fit on the Cougar hub once it is fitted

    Cougar

    • Warranty: 3 Year Limited Warranty
    • Unit of Measure: Each
    • UPC: # 77212080274
    • Material: Cast Iron (G3000)
    • ABS Sensor Ring Included: No
    • Discard Thickness (mm): 22.2mm
    • Outside Diameter (in): 10.94 Inch
    • Outside Diameter (mm): 278mm
    • Studs Included: No
    • Center Hole Size (mm): 63mm
    • Overall Height (mm): 46mm
    • Center Hole Size (in): 2.511 Inch
    • Discard Thickness (in): 0.874 Inch
    • Overall Height (in): 1.84 Inch
    • Inner Bearing Included: No
    • Solid Or Vented: Vented




    Mustang



    • Warranty: 3 Year Limited Warranty
    • Unit of Measure: Each
    • UPC: # 77212151875
    • Material: Cast Iron (G3000)
    • ABS Sensor Ring Included: No
    • Discard Thickness (mm): 24.7mm
    • Outside Diameter (in): 10.86 Inch
    • Outside Diameter (mm): 275mm
    • Studs Included: No
    • Center Hole Size (mm): 71mm
    • Overall Height (mm): 46mm
    • Center Hole Size (in): 2.799 Inch
    • Discard Thickness (in): 0.974 Inch
    • Overall Height (in): 1.82 Inch
    • Inner Bearing Included: No
    • Solid Or Vented: Vented




  21. #146
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    I question if that 0.08 of additional rotor diameter would hit anything …. I doubt it.

    Much like my rear brake setup, this would change from foxbody wheels fitting hub centric to lug centric. A spacer ring could cure that problem

    Looks very do-able

    I do not have plans to build it right now but down the road, who knows

  22. #147
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    It occurred to me that if you run SN95 A arms in front and Tbird axles out back front wheel drive 4 lug rim/tire combos would work decent on a foxbody

    Heck - the 00 Cougar rim/tire combo fits on the 8.8 setup I built while on the car already. They could use a good push outwards but they fit

  23. #148
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    After all these years I finally got a chance to drive my 85 Saleen build around the block. The SVO spindle with sn95 to SVO adapters setup I did for it is excellent.

  24. #149
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    This kit is worth mentioning

    it is available as 4 or 5 lug and uses very common 1994-2004 SN95 rear brakes

    https://foxbodybrakes.com/collection...39320814485615

  25. #150
    FEP Supporter
    qikgts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Rockledge, FL
    Posts
    1,458

    Default

    Hmmmmmm. Look at what Foxbody Brakes has done now....

    https://foxbodybrakes.com/products/4...ront-brake-kit

    Name:  foxbodybrakes cobra front w bracket.JPG
Views: 71
Size:  53.4 KB
    '85 GT

Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •