Close



Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    2,024

    Default how to remove outer hinges covers 84 convertible

    I had my 84 convertible painted last summer and I just realized they cut corners by tapping off around the trunk hinges. Now they look like this

    Name:  Resized_20171221_122051.jpg
Views: 165
Size:  32.3 KB

    Name:  Resized_20171221_122109.jpg
Views: 163
Size:  33.7 KB

    I see LMR has a set of trunk hinge gaskets so there must be a way remove the covers to properly paint the trunk.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Duncannon PA
    Posts
    1,047

    Default

    I hope it wasn't an expensive job. I would take it back to them and see if they will fix it.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Houston (Clear Lake), Texas
    Posts
    4,668

    Default

    Yes they can and should be removed when the trunk lid is painted. I did this before mine was painted to ensure it was done right.
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride
    '08 Edge Limited white sand tri-coat metallic...tan leather...other daughters ride

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Never underestimate the will of a lazy ass to cut corners!

    If I were the shop owner, heads would roll on that one! Completely unacceptable! Makes a decision to do something halfass instead of the right way without even consulting the owner of the car?!

    I get needing to make money, but it's also about what you'll send out of your shop. If you quote a job doing the cheap way, fine - make it clear. Also when you look at it more closely offer to do it right for an upcharge. Or quote to do it right in the first place and be specific about why it's worth it and is better.

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Time is $$$$$. It's been awhile since I pulled a set off, but IIRC you are looking at the better part of an hour to remove and then then same or more to reinstall. Not how I do stuff, but production shops are always looking for ways to cut costs and save $$.

    These are all those little things that add up on a complete repaint that most don't notice or forget until after the fact. When I do a complete repaint on a Fox, I pull front and rear covers, door handles, antennae, cowl, window moldings, emblems, trim, door channel run seals, door gaskets, etc. That ensures there are no masking lines or paint lines that will come back and haunt me or the customer after the fact. The added time for removal and then re-installation of all those parts and pieces easily adds 8-16 hours to a paint job. That's $400-$800 extra compared to the average paint job that will just mask everything off. That is just one of the differences between a restoration type shop and an regular insurance claim based shop.

    I agree it looks terrible, and I personally wouldn't do it, but pretty standard practice in the industry. Not saying it's right, but that is the norm.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    2,024

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Time is $$$$$. It's been awhile since I pulled a set off, but IIRC you are looking at the better part of an hour to remove and then then same or more to reinstall. Not how I do stuff, but production shops are always looking for ways to cut costs and save $$.

    These are all those little things that add up on a complete repaint that most don't notice or forget until after the fact. When I do a complete repaint on a Fox, I pull front and rear covers, door handles, antennae, cowl, window moldings, emblems, trim, door channel run seals, door gaskets, etc. That ensures there are no masking lines or paint lines that will come back and haunt me or the customer after the fact. The added time for removal and then re-installation of all those parts and pieces easily adds 8-16 hours to a paint job. That's $400-$800 extra compared to the average paint job that will just mask everything off. That is just one of the differences between a restoration type shop and an regular insurance claim based shop.

    I agree it looks terrible, and I personally wouldn't do it, but pretty standard practice in the industry. Not saying it's right, but that is the norm.
    I had this done by a local shop that has a rep for doing Foxbody resto work. After having a problem with a different shop I pulled my car and took it to the one that did the work.

    The agreement was they were supposed to pull off all the trim, handles, antenna, emblems etc. What we agreed was if anything beyond what we discussed needed to be done he would let me know and give me the option to do the extra work or keep it as we agreed. Not once was I notified of any extra work that needed to be done. I found out afterward that they didn't pull off the trunk hinges or the convertible molding. They tapped those off. I don't get it because they did pull off everything else, they removed the hood and stripped to bare metal, removed the front bumper cover and stripped that down to plastic, pulled off both fenders and did welding and straitening.

    After I picked up the car a week or so later the first things I noticed was the front bumper cover (replacement of an 84 GT) didn't line up with the fenders. They neglected to tell me the replacement part was off and needed fender extensions. They actually pulled the bumper cover and fenders together and pinned them with nut and bolt. Also found a small spider web crack on the front bumper cover. when I texted the guy a pic I had gotten off this forum showing an 84 GT with fog lights that lined up with the fenders that's when I was told I was missing parts I needed to go find. He did take the car back in and correct those two issues when I brought him a pair of fender extensions.

    Later I noticed the body side moldings I got from FMR had mismatched edges. According to FMR and Daniel Carpenter, the guy assembled them in the wrong order on the car leaving a rounded edge to squared edge mismatches on both sides. When I asked him to correct that he got really pissed, sent me 8 or 10 angry texts saying I had gotten enough "free work" out of him.

    With this issue I sent him pics and he agreed to fix it. Should I insist that he remove all the convertible molding as well as the trunk moldings? Should I insist he re do the body side moldings too? the awkward thing is this guy has a stellar reputation here on long Island and most guys in the facebook forum sided with him when I brought this out a few months back.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    2,271

    Default

    I find it pretty typical these days. The guy you talk with and makes promises is not the guy doing the work. By the time the worker gets the car, it’s just get it knocked as quick as possible and it seems they don’t know how to use a phone either. The one thing I always hated about body shops was that you wait to get your car in but it’s a huge push to get it out. They never seem to have the time to get it perfect the first time but have no problem redoing the work.

    The hinges can be removed, they just take some time and patience.

    First remove the tee shaped cover up next to the vert top. 2 small screws, think 1/4” socket. You will need to put the top down as that next to the fabric.

    Next there are 2 or 3 screws from the bottom side of the deck lid. Watch out for the flopping deck lid.

    Lastly the body side hinge can be removed. There is a fairly latge bolt buried and nut under some sealant. Probably a couple of small screws too.

    I have a spare set on hand to swap mine out after painting them. Beware, there is some foam or rubber sealer under the body side and that gasket is not reproduced. Only the flat plastic gasket under the trunk side is reproduced. I will try to post some pictures.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    I had this done by a local shop that has a rep for doing Foxbody resto work. After having a problem with a different shop I pulled my car and took it to the one that did the work.

    The agreement was they were supposed to pull off all the trim, handles, antenna, emblems etc. What we agreed was if anything beyond what we discussed needed to be done he would let me know and give me the option to do the extra work or keep it as we agreed. Not once was I notified of any extra work that needed to be done. I found out afterward that they didn't pull off the trunk hinges or the convertible molding. They tapped those off. I don't get it because they did pull off everything else, they removed the hood and stripped to bare metal, removed the front bumper cover and stripped that down to plastic, pulled off both fenders and did welding and straitening.

    After I picked up the car a week or so later the first things I noticed was the front bumper cover (replacement of an 84 GT) didn't line up with the fenders. They neglected to tell me the replacement part was off and needed fender extensions. They actually pulled the bumper cover and fenders together and pinned them with nut and bolt. Also found a small spider web crack on the front bumper cover. when I texted the guy a pic I had gotten off this forum showing an 84 GT with fog lights that lined up with the fenders that's when I was told I was missing parts I needed to go find. He did take the car back in and correct those two issues when I brought him a pair of fender extensions.

    Later I noticed the body side moldings I got from FMR had mismatched edges. According to FMR and Daniel Carpenter, the guy assembled them in the wrong order on the car leaving a rounded edge to squared edge mismatches on both sides. When I asked him to correct that he got really pissed, sent me 8 or 10 angry texts saying I had gotten enough "free work" out of him.

    With this issue I sent him pics and he agreed to fix it. Should I insist that he remove all the convertible molding as well as the trunk moldings? Should I insist he re do the body side moldings too? the awkward thing is this guy has a stellar reputation here on long Island and most guys in the facebook forum sided with him when I brought this out a few months back.
    Sounds like some less than professional work. Not sure what else can be said. Bottom line is shop owner should stand behind what his shop puts out no questions asked. If the work is subpar then he should fix it.

    I remember you having the issues with the moldings, Unfortunately it sounds like the standard issue of low wage/low skill workers and you are being charged premium $$.

    The only reason I can see for not removing the trunk lid hinges is the time involved and being lazy. As for many of the other items, that just appears to be lack of knowledge of the Four Eyed Foxes and not being willing to check, verify, ask, etc. what the hell is going on.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Houston (Clear Lake), Texas
    Posts
    4,668

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    With this issue I sent him pics and he agreed to fix it. Should I insist that he remove all the convertible molding as well as the trunk moldings? Should I insist he re do the body side moldings too? the awkward thing is this guy has a stellar reputation here on long Island and most guys in the facebook forum sided with him when I brought this out a few months back.
    If by "convertible molding" you are talking about the back top well trim I would say yes. I did this, as well as all the trim on mine when I had the shop paint it because I didn't want issues like you are having. From what I remember the middle section between the hinges is aluminum. However, those curved "hockey sticks" are plastic and break easily so not sure I would trust the guy fooling with them at this point. As far as the side body moldings...only you can answer that. Those were one of the few pieces (left the bumper covers in place with lights removed) I left on my car given your issues, them not fitting right, and given my car is a factory 2 tone.

    Also, if you are just repainting the trunk deck lid it's an quick easy removal. There are just a couple nuts on the inside of the trunk lid from the hinges and then a couple for the tension spring. The lid is then free minus a plug in for the lighting. At this point it is free for a repaint. The time consuming part is if you then want to remove the hinges from the top well...but not necessary to just repaint the lid.
    Last edited by bwguardian; 01-31-2018 at 05:50 PM.
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride
    '08 Edge Limited white sand tri-coat metallic...tan leather...other daughters ride

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Duncannon PA
    Posts
    1,047

    Default

    I'm no professional but I know enough to be dangerous with a paint gun and I do my own body work for these very reasons. It makes me mad when I see guys getting ripped off for half assed paint jobs like this.
    I go as far down as what Trey does plus the hood and hatch. It usually takes me about two months of week nights and weekends to paint a Foxbody.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •