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  1. #1
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    Default 1984 Capri 5.0 Barn/field Find

    So I found someone who has a decent condition Capri the only catch is that its been sitting for going on 15 years out side in a farm. I talked with him and im going to go and look at it on Sunday. What problem areas should I look at and what should I do besides change fuel and all filters, fluids, tires. Oh and I want to drive it back home (no trailer) is that feasible?Name:  123_1(3).jpg
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  2. #2
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
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    I considered getting this one but with a non running no title car we had a difference of opinion on price.
    Congrats on the purchase, Capri's are few & far between.
    Last edited by onetrackrider; 01-26-2018 at 01:48 PM.
    Current rides:
    89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
    86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
    86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
    85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
    83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by onetrackrider View Post
    I considered getting this one but with a non running no title car we had a difference of opinion on price.
    I discussed with him and he said he actually found it
    Thanks thisll be my first car thats actually mine and heres hoping it goes well

  4. #4

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    If it's been sitting 15 years its going to need a lot of work just to drive it home. I'm sure all the brakes are all set up. Rubber brake hoses probably need replacement, brake lines, fuel lines, fuel pump, carb needs cleaned and rebuilt.... Lots of work.
    '79 Indy pace car T-top
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  5. #5

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    Wiring inspection. Make sure the rats haven't munched out on them.
    84 Capri RS Turbo
    Vinemont, AL (formerly El Mirage, AZ)
    USAF (Ret)

  6. #6
    FEP Member Dave9052's Avatar
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    Missing fan shroud ? watch for overheating

  7. #7
    FEP Supporter STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave9052 View Post
    Missing fan shroud ? watch for overheating
    I dont think it has a shroud, my 83 black magic doesnt, unless its missing

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    My 84 RS had a shroud so this one should as well.

    Robert
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    I dont think it has a shroud, my 83 black magic doesnt, unless its missing
    Ken modified
    Current rides:
    89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
    86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
    86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
    85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
    83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)

  10. #10
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    Well i bought it and im renting a trailer to bring it back due to half the ignition wires being severed by rats. Looks like driving it home was a little too ambitious

  11. #11
    FEP Member Dave9052's Avatar
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    Congrats! nice project

  12. #12
    FEP Supporter STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onetrackrider View Post
    Ken modified
    Yup!!!

  13. #13
    FEP Supporter STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Congrats!!! Cant wait to see more!!

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    Aside from your wiring issues, these cars can back to life after 15+ years with no problems. I have done it to three now. It's actually pretty easy, just take your time and hopefully have a good garage to work in...and oh yeah, no way this gets done in a day and drive it home from the field

    *Pull the carb and rebuild (or take to a reputable carb guy). Expect to pay $200-225 for the Holly 4bbl. to have it done.
    *Drop the tank and inspect for rust. I've been lucky on two, had to replace the other.
    *Replace the sending unit if it is all corroded.
    *Remove and replace the rubber lines at the back by the tank and up by the frame to the fuel pump....these may look good, but old lines like that rot from the inside where you can't see....and the pump being in the front of the car is a "sucker", so it will cause those hoses to collapse under suction and starve the carb of fuel to the point of dying after about 3-5 mins running.
    *Also blow out the hard lines from front or back with compressed air before putting on new rubber lines.
    *Replace the fuel pump...and if the car did not have the recall done on the front fuel line, replace that from pump to carb (feel around it for a seem in the tubing). If it is seemed....replace it. You want a solid tube fuel line up to the carb to prevent splitting and causing an engine fire.
    *Make sure they give you a new fuel filter at the carb with the rebuild.
    *Install new/clean fuel tank and make sure the system is all tidied up. Fill with ~5 gallons of fuel and some fuel treatment.
    *Change the oil & filter. Only put in 4 qts at this time.
    *Remove spark plugs and consider lightly oiling the cylinders. Turn the crankshaft with a ratchet just to make sure she is not seized...most likely it's not.
    *Install new spark plugs, and consider a new cap & rotor and plug wires if they look bad.
    *Drain/flush/refill coolant.
    *Put remaining 1 qt of oil, half in each side valve cover hole to help lube up the valve train. Or prime the engine via the dizzy if you have that ability.
    *Grab a buddy with a camera to film its first fire up, turn the key, and if you are lucky like I have been....smile from ear to ear
    *As for that first fire up, you need to get fuel up to the carb first. Don't touch the throttle, just crank the car for ~5 secs and let off. Repeat one more time. Now stomp on the throttle 2-3 times to set the choke, then turn the key and she should fire up.

    But wait....I didn't say drive it yet! Now that she runs you gotta make sure she can stop. You can do this anytime in the above steps if you want. Inspect your brake hoses at each corner and replace if they look narly or dry rotted. Replace your pads/shoes too if needed. Being that it sat outside, don't be surprised if you have to replace some/all of the rotors/drums & calipers/cylinders. Suck the old fluid/tar out of the reservoir with a baster, clean out residue with a shop towel and fill with fresh fluid. Flush the old crappy fluid out of the system by flushing/bleeding fresh fluid through all corners....make sure to check your reservoir after ~5-6 pumps on the rears and ~10-12 on the fronts....you don't want to suck it dry. Don't stop bleeding at each corner until you see clear fluid draining out. This takes about 1.5 bottles to accomplish and about 30 mins with a beer or two.

    Now that she can stop, be sure to check all your fuel system work for any leaks...especially the fuel line into the carb. Once you feel all is good, head to the gas station to top off the tank, and cruise a few miles in enjoyment

    I think I hit all the key points, I'm sure others will chime in with their experiences.

    This was the last one I did....a 93 LX that sat for 15 yrs. You'll notice the DS valve ticking for about 4-5 seconds...I didnt' prime it and they don't have an opening on that valve cover to get oil into it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bInbu3rfRFI
    Last edited by sowaxeman; 02-08-2018 at 01:04 PM.
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 GT Med. Red - 14k Mile Orig. Survivor
    '85 GT Black - 16k Mile Orig. Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2016 Best Original 79-86)
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
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    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,700 Mile Original Survivor
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey - 16k miles @ counting.

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    Grrrrr....double post
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 GT Med. Red - 14k Mile Orig. Survivor
    '85 GT Black - 16k Mile Orig. Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2016 Best Original 79-86)
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
    '92 LX 5.0 Calypso - 10k Mile Orig. Survivor (Sold @ Foxtoberfest...2017 Best Original 87-93)
    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,700 Mile Original Survivor
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey - 16k miles @ counting.

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