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  1. #126
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    Patrick,

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    Here's a shot of the wheels I used. I found that the original 2004 Mustang Cobra wheels didn't fit even with some energetic attempts to widen the wheel arches. Since it was over ten years ago I hope you can forgive me and identify these wheels from the picture ;-)

    They are stock Mustang wheels - 17x8 - from a later Mustang. I like them a lot for track days, but if you're going for autocross you may want to make a lot more room in the wheel wells and go for 11" or wider wheels. It's a little complex in the front because of the suspension and steering components to put it mildly...

    Tom

  2. #127

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    Yeah, you'll need S197 wheels or later to fit on an F/Z because of how far apart the hubs are on the IRS.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 02-13-2023 at 09:50 AM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #128
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Wells View Post
    Patrick,

    Here's a shot of the wheels I used. I found that the original 2004 Mustang Cobra wheels didn't fit even with some energetic attempts to widen the wheel arches. Since it was over ten years ago I hope you can forgive me and identify these wheels from the picture ;-)

    They are stock Mustang wheels - 17x8 - from a later Mustang.
    I think those would be the '05-09 version of the Bullitt wheel, which is 17x8 +45mm. Doing the math, the stock '04 Cobra wheels (which were 17x9") would have 1.25" more "frontspacing" than what you've got now, so that would certainly explain the fitment difficulty!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Wells View Post
    I like them a lot for track days, but if you're going for autocross you may want to make a lot more room in the wheel wells and go for 11" or wider wheels. It's a little complex in the front because of the suspension and steering components to put it mildly...
    That is the plan eventually, and I realize it'll take some work to flare the fenders & quarters. I already have a couple sets of 18x10" wheels (with appropriately deep offsets) that should do the trick when I get to that point.

    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Yeah, you'll need S197 wheels or later to fit on an F/Z because of how far apart the hubs are on the IRS.
    Maybe I'm deluding myself, but just based on Tom's pic I think I'll be OK. There's a 15mm difference between the 17x8" +45mm wheels he's got, and the 17x8" +30mm wheels I've got. Looks like he's got some room to work with, plus I could always dial in more negative camber to gain more clearance if I need to. If they truly won't fit, no biggie, I'll just some find something else. The more important consideration for me was to find some 17"s that clear the big brakes up front.
    Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 02-16-2023 at 01:52 PM.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  4. #129
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    Patrick,

    For the autocross case you may want to look at the front suspension to see if the inner flange of the rim will clear. On mine I had to use rack travel limiters to keep it from happening. If you're using a lot wider wheels it may be more of a problem because the interference limits the turning angle - probably not too desirable for autocross!

    Also the nylon rack travel limiters, while kind to the steering parts, tend to be pounded flat when using the car hard...

    Tom

  5. #130
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    On rack limiters:
    79 Cobra, retrofitted 15:1 rack, 2.25 lock to lock.
    The other choice was 15:1 rack with 2.5 lock to lock.
    Think i read somewhere my rack is the same with extra limiters, like 4 vs 2. Thus 2.25 spec.
    They looked fairly easy to replace.
    215/60/15, stock GT turbines. Stock TRX suspension with the upgraded factory lower arms.
    Tires will slightly rub back of fender wheel well liner on full lock parking maneuver.
    I understand later Mustangs have deeper or recontoured liners when 60's became stock.

  6. #131
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    I also have the 200 in line 6 , you found the fuel filter . Its mounted /screwed into carb . Another idea for the fuel filter is , replace it with a fitting that screws into the carb and has a beaded hose end , now you can use an inline filter . In line fuel filters you can find any where . or need to carry a spare carb mounted screw in one.

    I see you went with a plastic end tank rad . maybe remove the core and try to hang onto the original end tanks .

    Front of engine drivers side , is that a smog pump ?

    door striker backing mounting plates , i wanted the threads to be well oiled so i oiled the whole plate , then put a gasket between the plate and body of car , bmw rider nice pic of the mounting plate.

    could you post a picture of the exhaust manifold, a pic with the air cleaner off , its not clear to me if the engine has the light off cat

  7. #132
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Wells View Post
    Patrick,

    For the autocross case you may want to look at the front suspension to see if the inner flange of the rim will clear. On mine I had to use rack travel limiters to keep it from happening. If you're using a lot wider wheels it may be more of a problem because the interference limits the turning angle - probably not too desirable for autocross!

    Also the nylon rack travel limiters, while kind to the steering parts, tend to be pounded flat when using the car hard...
    I think I should be fine as far as that goes, Tom, as I have a full Max Motorsports front suspension to go on it. I have the same setup on my '89 GT and have run 18x10s w/275s up front without any problems. (The Mustang has flared fenders, so obviously I won't expect to fit that sort of rolling stock initially on the Zephyr, but I mention that as an example of how much clearance I should have to the inside.)


    Quote Originally Posted by 1981 Capri View Post
    I also have the 200 in line 6 , you found the fuel filter . Its mounted /screwed into carb . Another idea for the fuel filter is , replace it with a fitting that screws into the carb and has a beaded hose end , now you can use an inline filter . In line fuel filters you can find any where . or need to carry a spare carb mounted screw in one.
    Thanks for the tip, but the 200 won't be sticking around, so this filter will do for the short term.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1981 Capri View Post
    I see you went with a plastic end tank rad . maybe remove the core and try to hang onto the original end tanks.
    The old radiator is long gone, went to the metal scrap yard. I think it's the most valuable single item I've ever scrapped!

    Quote Originally Posted by 1981 Capri View Post
    Front of engine drivers side , is that a smog pump ?
    As far as I know, yes. There's no A/C, and I can't think of what else it could be. The way it's plumbed it seems to be a smog pump of some sort.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1981 Capri View Post
    could you post a picture of the exhaust manifold, a pic with the air cleaner off , its not clear to me if the engine has the light off cat
    I've actually never jacked up the front end and really took a look at the exhaust manifold, but when I do, I'll try to remember to get some pics for you. Here's a not-so-great picture from above with the air cleaner off that I took a few years ago. It may not show enough for you to answer the question.
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    Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 02-19-2023 at 08:34 PM.

  8. #133
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    That looks to me like the light off cat on the exhaust manifold . If you do not keep the engine then maybe post that light off cat exhaust manifold for sale on fordsix.com . it might be sought after as there are threads about attaching a turbo to that large outlet manifold .

  9. #134
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Interesting, thanks for the heads up. At some point I'll have to take a closer look under there.

  10. #135
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Today I headed up to one of the LKQ u-pull-it yards near Baltimore to check out an '03 GT they had in their inventory. I was hoping to grab the hydroboost setup, as I'll need that to give power brakes with the Coyote. Unfortunately, someone had already grabbed the booster, master, and associated brake lines. Ah well...

    They also had a '97 V6 on hand, and I grabbed the passenger seat out of that. I sold the Zephyr's original seats a while back, and had grabbed a Mustang driver seat at the junkyard, but had never grabbed a passenger seat. I don't know if I'll ever really need it, but it's good to have just in case I want to take the wife or a friend for a spin. It's only temporary, so the fact that it's not the same fabric as the driver seat doesn't really matter.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  11. #136
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Nothing significant to report, the Zephyr is still waiting on my to finish up another project before I can really start on it.

    However, I did take advantage of some unseasonably warm weather to get out there and start the car. It cranked and cranked but didn't want to start, so I grabbed some starting fluid and a remote start trigger and finally got it running. I let it sit and idle for a while as I went around the car with an electric air pump and aired up all the tires.

    Going back in time a few years...
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    Over the weekend the wife and I moved from a rental house into our own house, and the Zephyr made the trip to the new place. ... The brakes were pretty sketchy, but other than that the car did just fine.
    When I drove the car over to the new house 2-1/2 years ago, the brake pedal was definitely soft. So, while I was fiddling around with the car I also decided to pop open the brake master cylinder. Fluid level was fine, but holy crap that was the worst looking brake fluid I've ever seen! It was jet black, like well-used motor oil. I turkey-bastered out the dirty fluid, used some blue paper towels to clean the sludge out of the bottom of the MC reservoir, then topped it off with clean fluid. Next step will be to actually bleed the brakes to get the rest of the filthy fluid out of the system.

  12. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    When I drove the car over to the new house 2-1/2 years ago, the brake pedal was definitely soft. So, while I was fiddling around with the car I also decided to pop open the brake master cylinder. Fluid level was fine, but holy crap that was the worst looking brake fluid I've ever seen! It was jet black, like well-used motor oil. I turkey-bastered out the dirty fluid, used some blue paper towels to clean the sludge out of the bottom of the MC reservoir, then topped it off with clean fluid. Next step will be to actually bleed the brakes to get the rest of the filthy fluid out of the system.
    Had that on a late model Explorer I was working on last year sometime. One of the rear calipers locked up. When I replaced it and went to bleed the brakes the fluid came out looking like old engine oil. Never seen brake fluid that bad ever. Took a while to bleed all of that garbage out.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
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  13. #138
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Got the brakes bled yesterday. As expected, the fluid looked pretty foul. I was pleasantly surprised that all 4 bleeders cracked open pretty easily. Got a ton of air out of the rear lines. (Well, at least on the driver side - I was using a 1-man bleeder, so I was pumping the pedal myself and thus could only see what came out as I was doing the driver side.)

    The front wheels are still off, as I figured while I had them off I could replace the front sway bar with a fat Mustang 5.0L one that I got a while back. Need to order bushings and end links for it, though, so I won't be able to put things back together immediately. I removed the stock sway bar today, and just placed an order through Rock Auto for the new pieces. The stock front bar is 7/8", so the 1-5/16" GT bar is a roughly 500% increase in stiffness.

    Here are the (presumably original) end links that came off the car:
    Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 03-16-2024 at 06:16 PM.

  14. #139

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    Glad to see you back on this car. Thanks for the update
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  15. #140
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    I got the GT sway bar installed yesterday afternoon. Sitting on the ground, trying to get one end of the sway bar connected to the first end link, while I'm trying to hold the other end of the sway bar off the ground with my feet/knees so I can have 2 hands free to hold the end link bolt in place and get the nut threaded on ... phew! . It's been a long time since I've swapped a sway bar, I didn't remember it being such a pain in the ass! I used Energy Suspension end links, and also a set of their bushings that come with the flat bushing bracket with a zerk installed, so you can see the shiny gold bracket peeking out above the bushing.



    I'm not sure how much more work will be done in the short term. I still have yet to finish the Subaru project that I've been telling myself I need to finish first for ... ohhh, about 7 or 8 years now. I can't decide which car I want to be working on first, so analysis paralysis sets in. Add in that my daily driver cars need some things done, as does my wife's car, plus spring is starting and there's plenty of work to do out in the yard/gardens. So many things to do, and only 1 of me!
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  16. #141

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    The analysis paralysis struggle is real.

    I have something I need to do one 7 of the 8 vehicles we have (plus a couple house projects) and trying to sort out the order of things (and actually getting time to do said work) is taxing.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

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