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  1. #1

    Default 88 Turbo Bird rough start up

    I have a 1988 Turbo TBird, and the car runs pretty good for its age but it has a very persistent issue on start up. The car will stutter several times from 250 rpm to 1250rpm but will stop after running for about 15 seconds and run fine after. I have tracked down a few bad parts but nothing seems to be affecting the main start up problem. Timing is set at 10, it is a hotter coil, 8mm wires and copper plugs. I have taken the car to another shop and even they could not identify the problem.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member
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    Have you checked fuel preasure .
    I am assuming you are stating this happens when cold after sitting over nite ?
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  3. #3

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    It happens at random. sometimes it happens on cold starts and sometimes it happens when the car has been running. I am running about 35psi of fuel pressure. I had this problem before, and found the alternator was over charging cutting the spark. but now it is back and it is not the spark that I am losing.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Check grounds.

  5. #5

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    How many ground wires are there in the engine bay? I have checked the, ground above the break booster, left of the cylinder head on the fire wall, battery grounds, head light and horn grounds. I know that I missed some, where else should I look?

  6. #6

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    Codes.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  7. #7

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    I will check for codes, but I am going to put the car off to the side for awhile due to the turbo seals going out. Waiting on parts

  8. #8

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    Long awaited update, I have the over charging issue solved(bad regulator and under sized pulley) but now i have the problem of the car stuttering on cold starts or when an electric load is applied(mashing the brakes and turning the headlights on at the same time) I hooked up an inline spark tester and when it does stutter it is losing spark at the coil. I have been talking to my 2.3 turbo guy and says that it is a common problem but dont know how to fix it. wondering is anyone has looked into this problem.

  9. #9

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    What codes do you get? Takes 5 mins and a paper clip.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    What codes do you get? Takes 5 mins and a paper clip.
    I will check for codes sometime this week, anything else too check?

  11. #11

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    There's lots of things you can check, but I find making sure the sensors all work properly is a good first step. The computer does this automatically as well as storing codes if its an intermittent issue even if the "check engine" light isn't on.

    The only reason I push so hard on codes is because I've spent hundreds, if not thousands of dollars chasing down an issue that didn't even end up being a problem. It was a broken vacuum line on the map sensor. Even though the computer didn't know the vacuum line was broken, it did know that it wasn't getting enough vacuum and pinpointed the map sensor as something to check.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    There's lots of things you can check, but I find making sure the sensors all work properly is a good first step. The computer does this automatically as well as storing codes if its an intermittent issue even if the "check engine" light isn't on.

    The only reason I push so hard on codes is because I've spent hundreds, if not thousands of dollars chasing down an issue that didn't even end up being a problem. It was a broken vacuum line on the map sensor. Even though the computer didn't know the vacuum line was broken, it did know that it wasn't getting enough vacuum and pinpointed the map sensor as something to check.
    I pulled for codes and found none in the system, checked my vacuum lines again and for proper firing order. What would be the next steps to take?

  13. #13

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    No codes or a pass code? Because no codes mean the computer isn't working.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    No codes or a pass code? Because no codes mean the computer isn't working.
    Sorry, got code 11 thats all my little reader told me.

  15. #15

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    Could the ignition module be going in and out, intermittent? When the distributer was replaced the extinction on the ratchet bumped the hot lug on the back of the alternator, could that have caused an issue. The alternator has been replaced along with all relays and fusses.

  16. #16

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    An update on the car, I found the issue, burnt fusible links under the starter Solenoid. Fixed and also unplugged the AIC valve and played with the timing. Now have the turbo pulled in the middle of rebuilding it.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by EverydayBirdStuff View Post
    An update on the car, I found the issue, burnt fusible links under the starter Solenoid. Fixed and also unplugged the AIC valve and played with the timing. Now have the turbo pulled in the middle of rebuilding it.
    Thats good news! Your car reminds me of the White 88 Turbo Coupe 5 speed my Dad bought after selling the 83 Capri RS Turbo he had to my older brother... which my brother eventually sold to me. Meanwhile that 88 Turbo Coupe went 225k miles without a rebuild on anything drivetrain related... just solid maintenance. These are good cars!

  18. #18
    FEP Super Member Bryan Knebworth's Avatar
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    I have a chance to buy an '88 Turbo T-Bird engine for 400 dollars. The engine only has 45K on it, should I do it? It will be a replacement for my '83.

  19. #19
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Knebworth View Post
    I have a chance to buy an '88 Turbo T-Bird engine for 400 dollars. The engine only has 45K on it, should I do it? It will be a replacement for my '83.
    Never hurts to have a backup. Think of it as a cheap insurance policy

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    x2
    Money in the bank. A spare motor ready to go would be too cool to me. Maybe someday..
    Clean it up, remove parts not needed, flush, fog, repaint, bag and store like a short or long block crate motor.
    Keeping spare parts that wear or may get damaged and will be used eventually is in a way piece of mind.
    Especially when they are hard to get or are costly to replace, time consuming to repair.
    Trans, calipers, rotors, pads, alternator, electrical parts, fluids, whatever one has room for.
    past owned daily driven many memorable times with all
    1967 Mustang 'verti Sports Sprint 289 Holley 4vC4 2.79 lime gold blk vinyl (6/70-4/73) 100k
    1970 VW 113 Beetle modded 1650 5200 2v 4sp Hurst 4.13 grn blk leathette (1973-1977) 200k
    1975 VW 1303 S Beetle LaGrande 1600 EFI 4sp Hurst 3.88 lime grn tan cloth (1977-1980) 90k
    1985 LTD LX 5.0 CFI HO AOD 3.27 gray gray (1987-1990) 75k
    1986 Ranger XL 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5 sp 3.45 gray burgundy cloth (1990-1994) 180k
    current owned now weekly driven totally enjoyed
    1979 Mustang Cobra 61R 2.3T Holley 2305 2v '92 T5 Hurst 3.45 black orange decals (7/80- )
    1993 Ranger XLT R103 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5sp Hurst 3.45 calypso green gray (3/94- )

  21. #21
    FEP Super Member Bryan Knebworth's Avatar
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    Thanks fellas. What about this; a 1990 2.3 for $1,090.00 w/a 5 Year or 50K Mile Parts & Labor Warranty. Its got a nice warranty and shipping is included. Somebody said there was a big difference between the older style and newer style, what was the cut-off date? I need the older style. My gut is telling me a grand for a 4 cyl is kind of a rip, lol
    Last edited by Bryan Knebworth; 11-02-2020 at 08:12 PM. Reason: text added

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    N/a and turbo 2.3 engines are built differently. All 2.3 are pretty stout.
    Turbo engines have premium hd parts internally to handle boost.
    Turbo short block will work in a n/a car. N/a short block doing turbo duty wont cut it for long.
    Somewhere in the 80's (87-88?) the rear seal and oil pan gasket changed to 1 piece.
    Same for v-belt vs s-belt config, carb vs f.i..
    Cyl head ports, 1991-up DIS 8 plug heads, flat to roller valvetrains.
    Ranger and Mustang 2.3 oil pans are different, as are brackets, mounts.

  23. #23
    FEP Super Member Bryan Knebworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    N/a and turbo 2.3 engines are built differently. All 2.3 are pretty stout.
    Turbo engines have premium hd parts internally to handle boost.
    Turbo short block will work in a n/a car. N/a short block doing turbo duty wont cut it for long.
    Somewhere in the 80's (87-88?) the rear seal and oil pan gasket changed to 1 piece.
    Same for v-belt vs s-belt config, carb vs f.i..
    Cyl head ports, 1991-up DIS 8 plug heads, flat to roller valvetrains.
    Ranger and Mustang 2.3 oil pans are different, as are brackets, mounts.
    Good to know. '88 Turbo engine it is

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